Honestly, the fact that the steel lines aren't leaking is pretty suspect. If they are/do, like I said, lapping compound will get those sealing surfaces to interface better.
At some point i did replace the check valve spring in mine with a weaker spring. Problem was I scored the big cylinder wall with the wrist pin cause I forgot to install one snap ring, and ran it for a little bit like that. Smoothed out the cylinder wall, and it wasnt making enough compression to open that valve anymore. I guess two small notches in the cylinder wall will do that.
I also installed the reed valve backwards once. Been using the same compressor for at least 5 yrs now. Two broken rods, broke my crank bolt 2x, crank bolt hole is galled out and literally held together with jb weld. Broke 1 piston. Reduced piston height by hand since it was smacking the top of the high pressure head (lower crank case to cylinder gasket delete, shortened head height), (dont recommend), all electrical connections are soldered now. At one point it wouldnt turn over anymore until I did that. Broke the pressure gauge, aftermarket oil filled one in use now. Front crank case gasket delete (dont recommend), necessitated modifying the front breather since it was spewing oil afterward.
Most all of my issues have been user error or negligence. Still runs great.
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