ZAN .177 10g Slugs in Spring Piston and Gas Spring Rifles

10g slugs

  • spring piston

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  • gas spring

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  • none

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I've dabbled with various slugs out of "springers" for a while now. However, I've never been able to group any slugs better than pellets in these powerplants. Have any of you tried the ZAN 10g slugs out your spring piston or gas springs rifles?


Here are two, five shot groups using a RX-1 with a Beeman 66rl scope at 20 yards. I haven't had anymore time to group the gun further. I'm still a little stunned on accuracy. Of course the gun is zeroed with Kodiaks, so the POI is different for the ZANs.
The last time I cronied this gun was right after a schrader valve replacement shooting kodiaks around 1000 FPS.
If I get these kinds of groups at 30 yards I'm re-zeroing the gun with the ZANs.

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I talked to a local merchant who sells airguns, and he said he shoots these 10gr ZANs out of his .177 Beeman R-1. That's what I will try after the RX attempt. Actually, I have a good number of low power PCPs that might shoot them too, so I have a lot of testing ahead of me. I did find out the 10gr JSB knock outs peformed better in my .177 Daystate Huntsman Classic than the original .177 12.5gr NSA I sighted in with.
 
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🤔I know I need to "slug" my break barrels. By that I mean do the push through thing. Because I have some.slugs....I can GET them into the breeches...I gotta JAM them in...but they do fire and go downrange😅🤣
What sizes are you using?
So, you're saying that, if I'd push a slug through the barrel all the way with a rod, I'd shoot good, because of being fitted to the bore better?

Man, I gotta try this with my Hatsan 125, because I've got 21 gr H&N slugs on hand (.2175 diameter) + plenty of .216 JSB Knockouts, but I already know that these .216 diameter won't shoot great, because the diameter of the bore is .218, so maybe only the .217 would do fine (sadly don't have any). I chronied these .216 slugs through the Hatsan and only got 570 fps in an average of 5 shots with them (they're 25.39gr in weight).
 
Oh no no my bad. what I mean is what you said KIND Of😅 after you push the slug all the way OUT of the barrel with the rod; you then measure the slug. It will have gotten "grooving" and slightly deformed from the barrels rifling inside. When you measure the slug you push through; THAT size you get from measurement is the size you should shoot🤪🤙
 
You don't need to push the slug all the way through. Just push it several inches into the barrel from the breech, then push the slug back out through the breech and measure the groove diameter, preferably with a micrometer. If you have a Lyman reloading book, there is a great section on slugging the barrel in the casting section. However, this is .177, so you just load the slugs into the breech and fire. There isn't enough selection in .177, yet.
 
You don't need to push the slug all the way through. Just push it several inches into the barrel from the breech, then push the slug back out through the breech and measure the groove diameter, preferably with a micrometer. If you have a Lyman reloading book, there is a great section on slugging the barrel in the casting section. However, this is .177, so you just load the slugs into the breech and fire. There isn't enough selection in .177, yet.
It's just....in my head...the p4ojectile should never travel backwards through your barrel....
That is unless an obstruction is present inside of the barrel already that cannot be removed by continual forward motion through the barrel.
But that's just me...I'm learning everyday🤓🤙
Would one benefit from using the entire barrel as opposed to like you say, only a few inches or so?
I am also intrigued as to how one slugs a barrel as we speak of; when using a slinger that has no breech access for a rod?😅
Aside from barrel removal(which i think a lot of people do?), is there a tool or technique to NOT have to take the barrel off.
😅
 
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I think near the end of many barrels the diameter gets more constricted, thus giving you an inaccurate reading on the true groove diameter of the overall diameter. I'll post a photo of the illustration from the lyman book when I get around to it. It explains accurately with cast bullets and groove diameter very well.
 
I think near the end of many barrels the diameter gets more constricted, thus giving you an inaccurate reading on the true groove diameter of the overall diameter. I'll post a photo of the illustration from the lyman book when I get around to it. It explains accurately with cast bullets and groove diameter very well.
Oh I'd love more.info!🤓🤗🤩
 
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Well, the TX200 MKIII barrel is choked I believe. So it is tighter near the muzzle somewhere. For the TX200 MKIII you would remove thec action and the trigger group etc and slug it.

I can't fully seat the Zan 10gr slugs into my TX200. The last bit is done when I close the action.
Ok so I've had it wrong in my head then😅🥴🤷‍♂️ ill admit when I'm wrong😂 I'm not ashamed lol🤣 meaning....the choke diameter has "no/less" effect in the slug as much as the breech diameter?😅
I've only dabbled a bit with my slugs bc they aren't cheap(to me)🥹
However I do love the performances that I've seen first hand😱🤪🤙
 
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Couldn't help myself to see if I could group the Daystate Huntsman Classic .177 (Yes, I know a PCP, but a 16FPE one) with the ZANs better than JSB Knockouts (10g too) @ 30 yards. Looks like I have a new slug, and no re-sighting in necessary. Went from NSA 12.5gr & JSB KnockOut (Both minute of Squirrel) 10g to ZAN. Wonder how the H&N 10gr. slugs will group when available.

JSB KnockOuts:

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ZAN:

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