The both sides cocking system of r5m .25 standard is difficult to operate.
Anyone including Ed could find a solution please?
Regards,
Umair Bhaur
Anyone including Ed could find a solution please?
Regards,
Umair Bhaur
Edgun R5m .25 hard cocking issue
- Thread starter mubhaur
- Start date
Give it some time to break and don’t pull both at the same time. It is not FX, it is built to last.
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On closing or opening? My R5 .22 standard only has about 400 shots but I have to really push hard to get that final ' click' on closing, opening is no worries apart from that this thing is absolutely awesome
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Umair,
Could you please describe a little more in detail of what you’re experiencing?
I have a R5M long in .25. Although she’s a safe queen, I have cocked her and decocked a handful of times. The action is not buttery smooth, but far from alarming. As Leon83 stated, I also believe that the action will smooth out in time. The action reminds me of my Superten (not great, nor horrible either).
I’ve applied moly aerosol spray to my Brocock Contour actions to loosen them up.
Perhaps you have something more going on. Maybe one of the bearings are bad? I’ve read that some of the lever action parts were changed at some point. I don’t know if this is true. I have several small metal roller bearings in mine.
Also, try with and without the magazine to see if there is a difference??
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Could you please describe a little more in detail of what you’re experiencing?
I have a R5M long in .25. Although she’s a safe queen, I have cocked her and decocked a handful of times. The action is not buttery smooth, but far from alarming. As Leon83 stated, I also believe that the action will smooth out in time. The action reminds me of my Superten (not great, nor horrible either).
I’ve applied moly aerosol spray to my Brocock Contour actions to loosen them up.
Perhaps you have something more going on. Maybe one of the bearings are bad? I’ve read that some of the lever action parts were changed at some point. I don’t know if this is true. I have several small metal roller bearings in mine.
Also, try with and without the magazine to see if there is a difference??
top
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I have had the problem with the last.125 of an inch of locking, but it was very dirty and when I cleaned it it seems to help. But i shoot mainly slugs that are a tighter fit. Hope that helps
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Try and reach out to @centercut If I’m not mistaken, he has dealt with this problem and I think he was able to resolve it to his satisfaction.
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Dea Sir,
It is coarse on both sides. Pulling and closing both.
More coarse than S10.
I never experienced any gun such difficult to cock.
Around 500 pellets have been shot from it.
With magazine in it is a bit more harsh than without magazine.
Regards,
Umair Bhaur
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I had the same problem with mine locking ... had to push like heck to get it to click on the locking mechanism. Mine was a .25 long and gave pretty good accuracy but it was hard to get the click. Then I thought maybe it is the pellets. I had been shooting the 34 grain JSBs and switched to the 25.4 grain and it smoothed everything out. It will still shoot the 34 grainers but I do have to push hard to get it to lock ... but the 25.4 grainers are so smooth that it's hard to notice any pressure being applied to get the lock up.
Thr another pellet and see if that helps.
Shalom
John
Thr another pellet and see if that helps.
Shalom
John
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Polish the front of the hammer blade where the breech linkage makes contact. If that does not smooth it out remove both puzzle pieces and polish them. These are the two things I have seen / noticed so far. Most of them smooth out with use though.
Joe
Joe
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Took of the botle and aply black lithium grease at the cocking rail and also at the block of pellet probe
The first models had ball beraings and the latest plastic rollers
The problem with 34 gr is because the chamber of barrel is too tight
The first models had ball beraings and the latest plastic rollers
The problem with 34 gr is because the chamber of barrel is too tight
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I have tried to polish the lead of barrel to seat the 34 grain pellet easily. It improved accuracy but other issues are still there.
Regards,
Regards,
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G
Guest
Guest
I have actually found that silicon grease is best restricted to use on o-rings, and that moly grease is much better for metal parts sliding under load. When I applied silicon grease to the bolt of my Edgun Matador R30 it became very hard to operate and I had to disassemble it and replace it with petroleum based grease to get it working again.
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It sounds like the 34 grain pellets may be suspect.
I don’t know if you can get this product in your country, I find the Birchwood Casey Moly Lube dry film aerosol spray to really smooth things out once bedded into metal parts.
I’ve used moly for decades. I always used it in my Moto Guzzi gear box. Lubro moly is highly regarded in Europe for vehicles. Drivetrains have a much higher load than the sliding parts in airguns, but moly may help unless you have a defective part.
Good luck figuring it out.
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I don’t know if you can get this product in your country, I find the Birchwood Casey Moly Lube dry film aerosol spray to really smooth things out once bedded into metal parts.
I’ve used moly for decades. I always used it in my Moto Guzzi gear box. Lubro moly is highly regarded in Europe for vehicles. Drivetrains have a much higher load than the sliding parts in airguns, but moly may help unless you have a defective part.
Good luck figuring it out.
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I would not recommend any lubricant to be put on the action - combination of lubricant and dirt/dust will only make it worse. The problem lies with the pellet type probably.
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I agree regarding attracting dirt and contaminates. This is why I recommend the dry film moly spray.
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