Hi Guys,
So I got my gun back from WAR a couple of days ago and had some time to evaluate it. First let's discuss the noise. Prior to any modifications, it was very loud. Using a sound meter on my Ipad Pro I was getting consistent readings that fluctuated around 104db -106db. It seemed kind of nervy to put the word "silent" in the name of the gun on their part. The shroud was turned around and there is a total of 7 baffles and a spring to keep the baffles secured tightly. Spring goes in first, then the 7 baffles. For anyone who has not seen the instructions on turning the shroud around here is how it is done:
1) Remove the grub screw in the shroud. The grub screw is holding a small, round, metal piece that has threads in it that allow the shroud to be secured to the threaded part of the barrel (on the crown area).
2) Next you unscrew the shroud and the end cap off of it and use a cleaning rod to remove the threaded piece. It has an oring on it so it fits tightly.
3) After it is removed just turn it around and push it back into the shroud making sure to line the hole up in the shroud with the hole in the threaded piece so you can put the grub screw back in once the threaded piece is back in the shroud facing the other way with the holes lined up. It can be a pain to line up the holes as the piece moves a bit when pushing it in. There is no ping either. I sort of expected that the law of diminishing marginal utility would kick in after adding more than the four baffles but it seems the contrary. I decided the reduction of noise was worth the extra 2 1/2 inches of length so left the shroud backwards and now get decibel readings around 89db.
Next lets move to power. Prior to sending it off, I was unable to successfully get any higher than 32 fpe without either not being able to cock the gun or have it cocked and not be able to pull the trigger from adjusting the hammer spring. Kind of confusing as I see other members were able to get to 36 fpe, although there are some problems with cocking levers and such I saw mentioned. After the tune I am getting an average of 935 fps with 25.4 grain JSBs. I plan to do a proper shot string as I traded my ProChrono with another member on Gateway for a Combro that will be here today so havent had a chance yet and will post shortly. It is definitely harder to cock the gun now as there are dual hammer springs. I can definitely see that a new cocking lever is needed. I really like what Silent Matt has done so far and look forward to checking it out when completed. Travis also is going to send me a lever once he has them machined. Best part is the power selector still works perfectly, have not had a chance to chrony other power levels yet aside from full but will do so shortly.
Accuracy has and still is incredibly impressive. Before the tune however, the groups seemed to open up a bit after 50 yards, but now I can hit an inch and a half group at 50 consistently. For me, this is actually pretty good. This is mostly my lack of shooting skills as I think the gun is capable of better. It is literally one hole, that is not even that ragged at 25 yards. Fortunately I got lucky with this one. My Air Ranger is the only gun I have ever had that enables me to shoot MOA out to 50 yards, and close even out to 100. Of course with the Hugget Shroud and Moderator it costs 4 times as much as this gun almost.
Now optics. The mounting of a scope was a frustrating experience for me. I tried multiple scopes and multiple mounts but the configuration from the factory has the mount set way too low. Finally I settled on two UTG 1 inch risers and a Leupold VX2 3-9 X 33 Ultralight. The thing has amazing quality glass and only weighs 9 ounces. The light gathering is so good I can actually see through it at night as long as there is a slight bit of ambient light.
The trigger is the only thing I am not happy with at this point. No matter what I do the first stage seems to long and it is too heavy. I have tried adjusting the one grub screw and honestly don't notice the difference no matter which way I go. The pull was shortened a bit by tightening the nut on the end of the bar though. I am kind of nervous to disassemble the trigger group as I have a bad habit of not being able to successfully reassemble things like it. I would really like to polish the components, if anyone has any pics of instructional nature I would really appreciate it, I did see the ones Strikefast posted but I still don't have the confidence to try it. Come to think of it, I am not happy with the POS picatinny rail either. Very flimsy.
I will get a proper shot string and some group images up shortly. In summary, it was well worth what the tune cost in my opinion this thing is now a PowerHouse and I would not say tack driver but damn close.
So I got my gun back from WAR a couple of days ago and had some time to evaluate it. First let's discuss the noise. Prior to any modifications, it was very loud. Using a sound meter on my Ipad Pro I was getting consistent readings that fluctuated around 104db -106db. It seemed kind of nervy to put the word "silent" in the name of the gun on their part. The shroud was turned around and there is a total of 7 baffles and a spring to keep the baffles secured tightly. Spring goes in first, then the 7 baffles. For anyone who has not seen the instructions on turning the shroud around here is how it is done:
1) Remove the grub screw in the shroud. The grub screw is holding a small, round, metal piece that has threads in it that allow the shroud to be secured to the threaded part of the barrel (on the crown area).
2) Next you unscrew the shroud and the end cap off of it and use a cleaning rod to remove the threaded piece. It has an oring on it so it fits tightly.
3) After it is removed just turn it around and push it back into the shroud making sure to line the hole up in the shroud with the hole in the threaded piece so you can put the grub screw back in once the threaded piece is back in the shroud facing the other way with the holes lined up. It can be a pain to line up the holes as the piece moves a bit when pushing it in. There is no ping either. I sort of expected that the law of diminishing marginal utility would kick in after adding more than the four baffles but it seems the contrary. I decided the reduction of noise was worth the extra 2 1/2 inches of length so left the shroud backwards and now get decibel readings around 89db.
Next lets move to power. Prior to sending it off, I was unable to successfully get any higher than 32 fpe without either not being able to cock the gun or have it cocked and not be able to pull the trigger from adjusting the hammer spring. Kind of confusing as I see other members were able to get to 36 fpe, although there are some problems with cocking levers and such I saw mentioned. After the tune I am getting an average of 935 fps with 25.4 grain JSBs. I plan to do a proper shot string as I traded my ProChrono with another member on Gateway for a Combro that will be here today so havent had a chance yet and will post shortly. It is definitely harder to cock the gun now as there are dual hammer springs. I can definitely see that a new cocking lever is needed. I really like what Silent Matt has done so far and look forward to checking it out when completed. Travis also is going to send me a lever once he has them machined. Best part is the power selector still works perfectly, have not had a chance to chrony other power levels yet aside from full but will do so shortly.
Accuracy has and still is incredibly impressive. Before the tune however, the groups seemed to open up a bit after 50 yards, but now I can hit an inch and a half group at 50 consistently. For me, this is actually pretty good. This is mostly my lack of shooting skills as I think the gun is capable of better. It is literally one hole, that is not even that ragged at 25 yards. Fortunately I got lucky with this one. My Air Ranger is the only gun I have ever had that enables me to shoot MOA out to 50 yards, and close even out to 100. Of course with the Hugget Shroud and Moderator it costs 4 times as much as this gun almost.
Now optics. The mounting of a scope was a frustrating experience for me. I tried multiple scopes and multiple mounts but the configuration from the factory has the mount set way too low. Finally I settled on two UTG 1 inch risers and a Leupold VX2 3-9 X 33 Ultralight. The thing has amazing quality glass and only weighs 9 ounces. The light gathering is so good I can actually see through it at night as long as there is a slight bit of ambient light.
The trigger is the only thing I am not happy with at this point. No matter what I do the first stage seems to long and it is too heavy. I have tried adjusting the one grub screw and honestly don't notice the difference no matter which way I go. The pull was shortened a bit by tightening the nut on the end of the bar though. I am kind of nervous to disassemble the trigger group as I have a bad habit of not being able to successfully reassemble things like it. I would really like to polish the components, if anyone has any pics of instructional nature I would really appreciate it, I did see the ones Strikefast posted but I still don't have the confidence to try it. Come to think of it, I am not happy with the POS picatinny rail either. Very flimsy.
I will get a proper shot string and some group images up shortly. In summary, it was well worth what the tune cost in my opinion this thing is now a PowerHouse and I would not say tack driver but damn close.
that the grub screw goes through the shroud then in to it. I can't really take credit for figuring it out as Travis did it and I just reversed engineered it though.
