Marauder factory settings?

The ones I got from Crosman are Hammer spring 1.25, Stroke 4, Transfer port 2.5. Did not say Gen 1 or Gen 2. These were for the .22.

Just stay on that chrony.
Factory settings will vary and settings will/can move.
You can google up the "A Team marauder tuning" , Jeff's blog has a bit on tuning and is straight forward:
https://avveduti.wordpress.com/category/airguns/marauder/page/3/

scroll down a bit there.

Thinking that's a Gen1 ? For power open the transfer port restrictor first, wide open may be about 4 to 4-1/2 turns, there is a jam screw on top of adjustment screw.
Maybe I'm wrong now but this was correct once upon a time.
The Gen 1 .177 and .22 used one valve and the .25 used a slightly different valve, Gen 2 changed over to a more powerful universal valve for all cal.
If it's a Gen1 the Gen1 .25 valve should be about $35.00, a straight drop in and increase power.

John

I contacted Crosman for the same reasons. What's the caliber? different calibers = different settings.
​This is what they gave me for factory sets for Gen 2 (Mine is a gen2):

1.77 Hammer Tension 1.5 Hammer Stroke 5.5 Transfer Screw 2.125
.22 1.25 4 2.5
​.25 5 4 4

​Make sure you set everything to zero (Tension, screw left till it stops or for stroke, at least a dozen turns left). Then turn right the appropriate number of turns. On the .22, it'll give about 820 fps on the 14.3gr Crosman Premier Domes. About 750 on the 18.3 JSB Heavies.

​Official disclaimer - my results will probably be different on your gun. Just treat this as a good starting point.

Good luck!

If you did not mess with the transfer port screw, then do not touch it in trying to get the velocity back where it was. Also, if the hammer throw adjustment has been adjusted a lot, back and forth, it might have loosened up. I had this happen, and when I had the hammer adjusted properly, after a couple dozen shots, my velocity changed. The fix was to disassemble the gun, so you have access to the hammer itself. There is a tiny setscrew on the side of the hammer that might need to be tightened, to prevent the hammer from backing out. If it is worn enough, the setscrew might have to be removed, and the little nylon plug replaced. This puts pressure on the threads, so there is no metal to metal contact. Other than that, Saltlakes adjustment numbers look right.

Tom Holland 

Didnt read Jeff;s blog eh?
It's not stripped that's what it does when bottomed out.

John

Just pulled out my Marauder Manual to make sure I remembered correctly. It's not just plain, "lefty loosy righty tighty." Might want to download from Crosman.

​For the Hammer Spring, clockwise to increase, counter clockwise to decrease. (1/4 Allen Wrench)
​for the Hammer Stroke (Striker) Increase Counter Clockwise, decrease clockwise. (1/8 Allen Wrench)

​If you are turning the stroke (striker) clockwise, it'll turn forever. It's held in place with a spring so it doesn't fall out. Turn counter clockwise till it stops (that's if I remember everything correctly!)

​Basically, turn the 1/8 inch allen wrench COUNTER clockwise 12 - 15 revolutions and it should bottom out. Just did the same thing on mine. Clockwise turns forever, counter clockwise bottoms out at 12 rotations.

​I start by bottoming both adjustments out counter clockwise, then appropriate revolutions clockwise. 

Transfer port adjustment is opposite. It's a screw that closes off the port, so clockwise completely closes the port. I start there by closing CLOCKWISE, and backing out COUNTER CLOCKWISE.

​All very confusing.

Hope that helps

(just for your information, I've typed this, and edited after posting 4 times now. Keep finding errors in what I postetd. I think it's correct now!)