My first month with the .22 Avenger.....NOW WITH PICTURES!

Hi everyone...This may be geared towards new to PCP air folks, but I will be telling you all my tunes and mods.

First I need to thank Steve at AEAC. The primer he provided on the Avenger in his videos saved me weeks of trial and error. I had a bunch to learn about air, and still do, but I am confident in this gun, and I am shooting stupidly small groups with multiple pellets out to 100yds so far. I purchased the water cooled Vevor on Ebay for $230 and besides a few early shut-offs....from a freaky thermal switch, it is working perfectly now. It will pump to the rifles 4350 max, but I usually stop at 3500psi...why hammer on everything right!?

I am REALLY impressed with this machine of a gun. I call it that because of the way it repeats. This is my first PCP, or any air rifle for that matter, and coming from years of building 22LR bench rifles, air is WAAAAY more fun and less dependent on ammo!, at least mine is. I just got SO tired of searching for lots of Eley black box 22lr, and spending $0.35/rnd!

I think I will skip my early "getting to know" stage as we all will go thru it, and go to the mods that made the most improvement, or actually added to the consistency that is inherent in these Rifles.

Mods...

1> I made adapters/air strippers to replace the shroud cap, and to mount my moderator. I studied the Donny's, and turned my own version on my lathe (I have a small machine shop in my garage) Mine goes over but doesn't touch the barrel (harmonics always comes first in small bore!)

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2> I purchased a 1-1/8 x 6" "blank" moderator kit for a 22lr, but built it to .30cal specs inside. Bigger thru holes work better in air....I found it's controlling volume of air, not heat and explosion from powder that these rifles like!...see above.

3> I drilled (6) 3/32" holes...3 on each side of the shroud 1" above the rear mount see below. This made a huge difference in settling the gun, removing fliers, and controlling sound. Got rid of the "snap" and now it's a "thump" so to speak. Here you can also see the hammer spring t-wrench that makes adjustments MUCH easier. used electrical shrink tube to fatten up the Allen key I epoxied into the 3.8" turned aluminum bar. Check out the bolt knob, and focus wheel I turned for the SwampFox Patriot 6-24/50 scope. GREAT scope BTW! Steel rings of course!

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4> Trigger work....I am not a fan of telling anyone to alter a rifle trigger. I will say this...I used the parts provided by the factory, but not in their original locations to get the trigger smooth, safe, and sub-1lb. If you work on triggers, this will become very obvious after a little observation of the over-travel spring. If you don't work on triggers....leave it be, they actually have a nice trigger from the factory at about 1.75lbs. I am used to triggers in the "ounce" weight class....so.

5> Secured the shroud to the air tube just behind the air fill cap with a rubber spacer (0.040" thick rubber band, yours may be different) between them, and a large o-ring around both to stop them from slapping together under recoil. This was giving me fliers, but an easy fix! It also "quieted" the harmonics. Just DON'T flex the barrel shroud when doing this. It will alter your P.O.I. Yup I turned the fill cap to match...Style and all :)

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6> Crowned the barrel...I know, Steve showed the "no-crown" and it's groups which is great, but mine had a slight crown that was jagged....well not like gator teeth, but it needed attention. and i am way ocd.

Those were the biggies that removed any bad habits my Avenger had from the Factory. Actually, I have done more work to MUCH MUCH more expensive rifles to get them to shoot. This was just following the little harmonic killers and removing them. I am finding what these PCP dudes like, and when you get it right...HOLY FRIGGIN MOLY they repeat! Here are some of the groups, others are still hanging in the yard/range, and some tools I made to make tuning easier. The Alum pc. with the ball bearing is what I use when pellet skirts are funky. Just make em' round, and push thru the hole to size back to specs with the sawed off screwdriver looking thing......228" BTW works for my barrel. Oh, and my new invention on the scope cap...to remember what turn I am on for the hammer spring. Cool huh!? Even tho I count turns in? yea yea I know!

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MY Tunes...Basically just do what Steve tells you at AEAC which is spot on, but here's what mine likes anyway...I start all of them at 25yd til one hole, then out to 45yd, then 75yd, (it's how my trees are laid out for targets) I'm at 75yd to this point.

Adjustments are XXXXpsi on reg./number of turns in on hammer spring from all the way out. I'm a benchrest shooter mostly...

1. Air Arms, and or JSB 15.9gn diobolo 1800/2.5 gave me 905fps and best 5 shot group of .385" at 75yd. JSB shoots 1" higher WTH?

2. H&N 21.14 Cuda Match pointy diobolo 2400/3.5 yields 880fps with a 5 shot group at .163" at 45yd. and 8 shot .680" at 75yd.

3. The rifles favorite food is JSB 18.13gn diobolo 2000/2.0 at 865fps and a rediculous group of 12 shots into .285" at 45yd. I didn't want to stop! I lost light tonight and didn't get to shoot these out to 75yd. I usually get a "no breeze" hour in the early morning and again before dark. I shoot out of my garage/shop below into my back yard and can stretch it out to maybe 150yards. 25y on the right wood pile, 45y to the Cherry tree strump center, and way down left is the 75y on another wood pile. Did I mention we have a few trees around here in the Philly farm burbs of S.E.PA.? :) It's nice tho!

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I tried a few slugs from FX, NSA, JSB but just no luck yet. Rifle gets upset every time I try em'

So, that's my first month in the PCP World. I try to shoot every day for my "no--wind" Chrony data, and then to learn what these guns like in a breeze...which can be like a friggin whiffle ball! :) Thanks for reading, and ask away if I wasn't clear on anything. Have fun,

Gerry
 
Thanks for posting this. Gives me some ideas for mine.

Some questions:

Are you still using the factory barrel band? With the screws that snug the band to the shroud and longer air tube?

Is that an o-ring on your trigger blade? For a finger position/stop?

No problems 481! happy to do it!

1. Yup factory barrel band in place, but I have a newer Avenger maybe? mine doesn't scuzz the air tube or bbl? factory changes?

2. Excellent eye! I use it for consistent placement, and a reminder to pull straight back and follow thru. Like a rubber band snap on the wrist mantra :)

G.
 
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Thanks GerrywithaG. Yes, based on Air Velocity Sport's teardown video, they've made some running changes. I have a wood stocked model that's a couple/few months old, with the same no scuzz design as yours (most likely).

To answer heavy-impact's question, on mine, there is a plastic bead in between the end of the screw and the shroud and air tube. The plastic bead is what makes contact, and deforms a bit, instead of marring up the aluminum shroud and air tube. I don't have access to an earlier version, but I suspect the screws are shorter now too. The screw head bottoms out before you completely crush the plastic bead. For the sake of clarity, this is for the two screws that come in from either side (and not the screws that hold the plastic stock fore end pieces).
 
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To answer heavy-impact's question, on mine, there is a plastic bead in between the end of the screw and the shroud and air tube. The plastic bead is what makes contact, and deforms a bit, instead of marring up the aluminum shroud and air tube. I don't have access to an earlier version, but I suspect the screws are shorter now too. The screw head bottoms out before you completely crush the plastic bead.

I understand now, thanks.
 
Nicely done! I have an Uber OCD question for you. Have you thought about calibrating your hammer spring tool? What I mean is marking the hex key portion of the tool so you could align the marks to some point on the back of the gun?


Hey Dave,

Yup, I had a tool that fit into the hammer spring opening that had an adjustable dial and rotating locking indicator etc. WAY to involved as a reference tool! and it got in the way of my grip. I ALWAYS over build, then hack away the un-needed til it is simplicity. Something I remember studying in first year, Mechanical Engineering 101, or Popular Mechanics?, or maybe my Dad just screamed it enough times? :)

Being too OCD is a thing?.......hmmm. not in my universe. Have fun man,

G.
 
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Don't you feel sorry for the folks that stop at the first iteneration of any project? All of my projects and inventions are given a "Mark" number for major changes and and a letter for minor changes. Guess what? There are no "Mk1a's" on my equipment shelves and lots of bits and pieces in my scrap bins. OCD is not an afliction; it is an intellectual awakening. Or that's my story and I'm sticking to it...

D.
 
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Did the shroud vent holes really yield a significant improvement? Do you think it's worth trying (coming from someone using the Donny adapter with a moderator)?

Do you think it's worth drilling more cross holes in the Donny adapter tube too? The pellet travels roughly 2.5 inches through the adapter tube before it gets to the cross holes (in mine).

And do you think I should open up the ID of the adapter tube larger (just deep enough to accommodate the barrel OD and muzzle/face with more clearance)? There's only .005" clearance on diameter between the adapter ID and the barrel OD.

I wish I had access to a Bridgeport and a lathe right about now.



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I have tried with mine closer to the end of the barrel, with the shroud. I did not notice any improvement, or decrease (still using the Donny adapter and FX moderator).

I also tried with no shroud, and no moderator installed. Still no improvement, or decrease.

But this is coming from someone that NEEDS to build a better (solid) shooting bench before anything else.
 
Did the shroud vent holes really yield a significant improvement? Do you think it's worth trying (coming from someone using the Donny adapter with a moderator)?

Do you think it's worth drilling more cross holes in the Donny adapter tube too? The pellet travels roughly 2.5 inches through the adapter tube before it gets to the cross holes (in mine).

And do you think I should open up the ID of the adapter tube larger (just deep enough to accommodate the barrel OD and muzzle/face with more clearance)? There's only .005" clearance on diameter between the adapter ID and the barrel OD.

I wish I had access to a Bridgeport and a lathe right about now.



donny_adapter.1633279644.jpg


All excellent questions 481. I should preface everything I do here with the fact that coming from .22lr small bore powder burners, chamber/barrel combo is king #1 concern, then match the ammo to it, then your barrel Tuner...last of which I have been building and developing for 10 years or so. PCP'c are just now coming from the factory with Tuners for the first time on the FX line. I have been building Tuners for Big Bore (.308 bench rifles), and trying to hide them inside "Silencers" too funny! My point being...a PCP really shouldn't need a Tuner IMO, because we have EVERYTHING adjustable(or Tune-able )already built in.

BUT...I built everything beyond my Avenger crown like one big barrel tuner, EXCEPT...Nothing touches the end of the barrel because they are too delicate (in O.D. strength) to interfere with. My .22lr barrels are about 26" long x 1" + O.D. a friggin truck axel which = harmonics control. Get it?

IMO, EVERYTHING should be tried ONE AT A TIME, then document (shoot groups with known ammo and conditions) then repeat with another variable. These are not expensive toys (my whole rig is less then an FX bbl.) and anything can be replaced or repaired. NOTHING on my rifle is off limits to find smaller groups.

Actually, after shooting 8- JSB 18's into .475" at 70 yards today....I'm starting to think my big work is done and I need to work on the machine touching the trigger! :)

pssst...and my next secret weapon project starting Monday.....a real good rear Mono-Pod. Did you see the winner out in Utah this year?

G.


 
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Also, have you tried playing with the location of the internal barrel support block in the shroud? I'm wondering if it's lateral location affects the barrel harmonics.


Absofriggin-lutely it does! EVERYTHING I do to these guns changes POI, even when I left the mounting screws out of the shroud at the rear....POI moved.

Instead of moving the internal mount, (I like where the factory guys put it...and not by willynilly blind luck either I bet) I would make an adjustable sliding weight (maybe 3oz. total) to go over the shroud. I'm thinking a pc. of 1" cpvc tubing, cut to slide with some kind of weight attached. Hot glue, tape whatever til you get a result.....not that I tried it or anything ;), my comp and Donny-esque copy made mine obsolete.

G.
 
Also, have you tried playing with the location of the internal barrel support block in the shroud? I'm wondering if it's lateral location affects the barrel harmonics.

I have tried with mine closer to the end of the barrel, with the shroud. I did not notice any improvement, or decrease (still using the Donny adapter and FX moderator).

I also tried with no shroud, and no moderator installed. Still no improvement, or decrease.

But this is coming from someone that NEEDS to build a better (solid) shooting bench before anything else.


I should clarify....I did not see my groups tighten or loosen when moving the support. But POI most certainly changed.



But I've just discovered other issues which likely masked results.
 
GerrywithaG: just so I'm clear, you've left this piece in the OEM's installed position (component circled in red in the image below)?

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Sorry for the wait in response! I am on my 3rd iteration of a stable usable mono-pod. Removing "extras" now. :)


Yessir! I have a sneaky idea the engineers put it there for a reason after testing!? just a feeling, so I left it alone, and secured the outside of the shroud from rebounding against the main air cylinder below. This made a real big leap in removing Flyers<<< I'm a Hocky fan in Philly burbs:)

Another clue for you.....My ring clamp (pictured left of your red circle) was NOT tight on my shroud.....it is now!;) after using a 0.006" feeler gage!

Have fun,

G.
 
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