Project Royale 500 .25/.22

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Glem.Chally

Glem.Chally

Member
Jul 11, 2017
5,998
971
British Columbia, Canada
I'm super happy with my Royale 500 its been deadly reliable and problem free after 7000+ shots the only O-ring I've replaced is the outside regulator ones a few times from having it in and out many many times. Could not be happier, so I was thinking I would also love a .22 but why buy another gun at this point in time. So after asking some experts and getting good advice I poured over the parts list and got all the pellet probe assembly parts specific to Royale 400 and the brass barrel inlet.

I wanted a .25 powered (500 hammer weight, SHP valve and seat) .22 with a LW polygon unchoked barrel, The barrel blank is on its way from Germany and I've got some quotes locally to machine the barrel to fit the receiver and thread into the barrel inlet. Hoping to be able to shoot .22 slugs well with some authority.

This is what I came up with;

Pelletprobeguide front D26 5.5 19012
Linkage F1 19021
Pivot Pin F2 19042 2x8mm
Pelletprobe F3 19010
Pelletprobe O-ring F4 1504 x 4 4,42x2,62mm
Brass barrel Inlet 5.5 ST E3 2056-2020-1
Breech 0-ring E1 5112/5108x8 5.28x1.78mm
Pivot Pin F5 19026 2.5x6mm 2 of them(1 spare)
Sidelever F6 19020
SideleverHandle D6 19037
Screw D7 11060 M3x18
Pivot Pin D5 11509 3x10

I wanted full swapability so I can just pull the whole .25 pellet probe assembly out and slide the .22 in so I opted to get a second sidelever and everything. One part I forgot to order was D5 which is the thick pin that grabs the hammer and pulls it back as you cock. My bad, so i fired up the lathe (angle grinder and drill) and machined a bolt down to 3x10mm. Then looking through my parts instead of sending the 2.5x6mm roll pin they sent me a couple 6x6 grub screws with the part number I ordered on the bag. Oh well, after making the first part with the "lathe" i made a pin out of the same bolt. 2.5mmx6mm, it's like a grain of rice and press fit. Nailed it!!!

I put all the .22 parts in and cycled it a few times everything is working smoothly.

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Couple parts I made out of the old bolt, haha.
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Here's the 19026 "2.5x6" Pivot pins I had the part number right and the part number on the bag is right too. Oops, I'm not complaining though having these parts available in North America is great and the fact that they ship over the Northern border is excellent. Went to the range a few hours this morning and shot some 100/50 and 25. Also shot a Martini-Henry from the 1870s! an original one HUGE plume of smoke and shooting out like cotton wadding and wax along with a massive chunk of lead. I was shooting it right when i'm left eye dominant but that was a very cool experience I wont soon forget.

Only 25m but this is picture worthy I think, 5 shots. I'm always the only guy with an air rifle there and everyone is cool and interested in it and amazed at the accuracy when I do my part.

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Well I kind of explained it in there, to be able to shoot the JSB's deadly accurate with the .25 and be able to have a powerful .22 that can shoot slugs all in the same gun. I'll be able to swap back and forth in minutes.

What a .25 cal ST barrel can't do is shoot slugs, who knows maybe it'll make 45-50FPE with .22 slugs and have a great BC.
 
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If I understand correctly you want to create a supercharged .22 cal. that shoots accurately and delivers 50-55 fpe...but something I am curious about...what leads you to believe an unchoked barrel is more accurate with slugs than a choked one? and also why polygonal rifling...was it to prevent lead fouling? What is the length of these NSA 32 grainers? I ask because you may need a faster twist rate than the 1:17.7" twist rate of the unchoked polygonal LW barrel you ordered to stabilize those slugs. I am just thinking you may need a twist rate of 1:16" to stabilize them. Do you know what NSA is using for a test barrel for the 32gr. .22 boat tail slugs? I am concerned that without a choked barrel you are not going to get those boat tails to obdurate as well as say a hollow based bullet would.

If you eventually find the LW barrel doesn't perform as well as you hope it will, you may want to try a choked or unchoked barrel from TJ's Barrel Liners. Mike Sayers can make a barrel for you that is specifically tailored to the projectile of your choice...he will even let you work with the company that makes the mandrels for his hammer forged barrels so that you can help design it to your own specifications. (You end up owning the mandrel which used to cost around $300.00, or you can leave it with Mike who will only use it for other people with your permission.)

All the best, Chuck
 
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It was just an example of a high BC slug for an airgun I'm not set on those particular slugs. I'll get it and see what it likes, NSA and Rat Sniper and probably others make different varieties. I said 45-50 but yeah that's the idea hotter shooting .22 that can handle the vast variety of .22 pellets and possibly slugs.

I'm not looking to get grilled here, we'll see how it goes I'm sure it will shoot something well.
 
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Very cool project Glem. I read a while back on a post by Gregor on the Huben that he used an LW .22 LR barrel. His retained velocity and energy down range was amazing, and much higher than the .25 JSB Heavies. You might start with 50 to 55 fpe compared to 60, but down range at 100+ yards your energy will be higher, and pellet drop less due to a BC twice that of the .25 JSB Heavy. Let us know how it goes? 
Mike
 
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Well I got super lucky hopefully, I spotted this in the clearance section of AGS. Will be good to have regardless.

https://www.airgunsource.ca/en/fx-smooth-twist-22-cal-barrel.html

That reallly look like it'll slide in the Royale action and for 80$ Canadian I bought it and find out Monday if it'll fit forsure but I think it will. New take off or used I'm not sure but looks funny with that silver air stripper part or whatever that is.
 
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Smooth twist barrel comes tomorrow the tracking says so I took some pics if anyone wants to see what needs to be done to re&re the pellet probe and change calibers on the Royale platform. 

Some tools to start
  • 1.5-5mm hex wrenches
  • 1/16th brass punch to push the pins for the trigger assembly
  • 3/8th wooden dowel
  • hammer
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Take these 3 grub screws out

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Then might as well loosen almost fully the one on the right or remove it fully and remove screw on the left on the rear half of the block, the one on the right just holds the delrin front probe guide in place.

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Remove stock with lower 4mm bolt.

Then push out the pins for the trigger assembly, start with the left two pins. Remove those two fully, then support the trigger assembly as you remove the right one it's spring loaded so if you provide a tiny push as you push on the pin it takes the load off and slides right out.

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Sear should be sitting in there slide it out and don't lose it. I just did this a while ago and went too nuts with the Moly paste I've since wiped this all off.

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Sear

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Remove HST adjuster and tip it over the spring and hammer weight (FX500) and hammer will fall out. 

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Now the hammer assembly and trigger assembly are removed the probe can slide out in a whole unit. One last 1.5mm threaded pin to remove then the whole assembly slides out the back with the rear pellet probe guide (same diameter .22 or .25)

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It grabs well and stays on the tool for me. (threaded pin)
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Pellet probe with rear guide.

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Front delrin pellet probe guide is caliber specific and I found a 3/8ths dowel slides through the breech and is perfect for knocking out the delrin bush and not damaging it or anything else. Little tap with the hammer it comes out and works great to slide the other one home too.

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Seems like a lot of work but it took me 3 minutes to do this in reverse with checking function at the end, the only thing I didn't do is put the barrel back on because I'm all set up to slide the .22 one on tomorrow. These are great to work on, using that dowel to push the front guide out and to seat it really cuts down the time. 










 
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