Rebuild question Airforce

 

https://talonairgun.com/

I don't think they have a requirement to join.

I know some of the info I have needed on certain airguns required a little effort on my part to find , but it was to me important enough to do what I had to to get answers. There may be a site that will answer any typed in question but I have never seen it. 

Did you find the info you needed? Having the same issue. I'm just getting into airguns and read how the airforce guns are great and have a ton of resources for working on them and mods. For the life of me I can't find an active group with this type of info.

For the parts for the re seal you could buy them directly from airforce airguns..or pcp tunes they have all the little pieces to seal that tank again..now there is a little problem, with your valve being a really old one I could tell because it have round holes on the top is possible to have some difficulty taking it out because the tool available is for the newer versions..one is removed if was you I will update the top to a new version ,to be able to use the tools available for the job all of them the top bronce part the orings are really cheap..for pcp tunes, they sell the tools to..you could find the tools at Ebay to..

AF will repair your leak and can update you current valve to the new ring loc set up. R&L and Talon Tunes is another source for parts. IMO to the tank Hydro that is a debatable question? AF can better serve you on that issue. As always a visual is recommenced on every fill. 

There are many older guns out there that have never been re hydro tested. Fill tanks are the ones that require testing by DOT law to be tested for places that fill them for the public. DOT does not in my understanding require tanks Under 2" diameter and 2' long do not require testing. If they do the old tube pcp guns would be junk.  JMO

The TAG and the TOG before that used to be 'the' resource for these guns, but membership and posting has died off some. 

There are still some of us from the old days who hang out here and on other forums who may be able to help.

First thing is to find out where the leak is. Use a q tip with some soapy water. Likely going to be getting bubbles from the tophat, or the brass ring under the tophat and possibly from the burst disc or main valve body.

For seals, can get rebuild kits just about anywhere. Once you dive into them, they really are not hard to reseal at all. Biggest issue is having the proper tools to remove the valve so that you don't mark it up.

Figure out where the leak is and give me a holler on PM. 

All you need to get the valve out of the bottle is a 5/16" Drill Bit (I use an old flathead engine exhaust valve that has the right sized shaft). Drain the tank if required. Insert the smooth end of the drill bit in the hole at the side of the valve body. While firmly holding the tank give the bit a whack with a wooden rod or a plastic headed non marring hammer. It should break loose easily in a CCW direction. Once that is done the top brass ring can be removed by using a pair of needle nose pliers with small tips as a spanner wrench in the two holes or slots in the brass retaining ring (actually this part holds all the valve internals and the valve body holds it). Note it is easier to remove the brass valve retainer if the brass valve spring retainer and spring are removed first from the bottom of the valve housing. The Top Hat may need to be removed to gain access to the holes in the top brass retaining ring. Best to avoid it if possible as removal of the tophat involves removing the valve poppet too which can be a tiny bit problematic to put back together just right. (Hint do it BEFORE any other action of reassembly)



I don't remember where I got the above image but if it belongs to anyone who sees it credit is yours.

There are 3 o-rings in the entire assembly. 

The bottle to valve (Takes a set over time and can crack with age)

The brass ring to valve body (This is the usual culprit in leaks I have had as it tends to go flat and / or crack over time)

The Top Hat Shaft o-ring found inside the brass retainer. (Should not be an issue for leaking the bottle down since it only sees pressure when the valve is open)

If the first 2 o-rings are good and there is still a leak then the poppett shoulder (sealing surface) probably needs work or there is some trash or damage in the valve seat area.