"Slayerious"I also have experience from the Argos eye box and can somewhat confirm it being small. This is a problem and while it can be seen positive for cheek weld consistency, it usually forces your head in an unnatural position.
But when the eye box is done on my side I have very clear image, no doubt far better than on my Hawke SW30 SFP 8-34.
During daylight I do not see much dimming either, except when it comes evening. However the image is still well bright enough to make shots comfortably.
The parallax problem is present to me also. But I have read that many do their own parallax markings, maybe Hawke has improved their parallax markings from the SFP models but they rarely all match 100%.
@SMH77 You seem to have much knowledge about optics, you had good testing methods. What would you think of test for night/evening shooting, where you use them during the night with the lowest magnification. I noticed not much difference going from 56mm SW30 to 50mm Argos, can you confirm this?
I would think that at night the contrast and light transfer is all that matters.
Sorry for the delay in getting back to you-I intended to reply sooner....
First let me say that I do not currently have experience with shooting at night. But I do have some experience with telescopes, binoculars (at night), and photography-so I could make a few comments but take them in the context of not having 'direct insight' into your exact question.
I think using either scope on the lower magnifications would be fine (keeping them below, say 10x mag). I think having the larger objective would favor the Hawke FFP, or the Athlon 8-34 x 56mm since those both have 56 mm objectives. If you truly want the lowest magnification, I think the Hawke would win between the Athlon 8-34 vs. the Hawke 6-24, both having 56 mm bells on them (I believe it makes for a larger exit pupil diameter-but I don't want to confuse that if it doesn't directly apply). The things I don't know about with the various scopes is how many elements inside of them, and the quality of coatings and number of coated elements within the optical path-those two factors have the potential to affect light transmission through the scope, and affect the comparison. With that said, the Hawke is the most costly of those 3 scopes, so I suspect it doesn't have 'worse' glass / coatings (but may have more elements-which can hinder transmissivity through the scope, because each glass surface reflects a small amount of the incoming light, and results in losses).
I will say this, staying away from a finicky eyebox is probably a good idea for night shooting as seeing the shadows at night would probably be next to impossible (but a counter argument could be made for the opposite too...).
So, I don't have a direct comment on your question, but have the thoughts above to offer on the topic.
Having said all that, I have plenty of predators where I live and hope to expand to night time hunting sometime so I will hopefully gain some direct experience to share (and will update if I can provide any useful info here).
Sean