Tuning Taipan Veteran Trigger Adjustment Picture

Hoot, I'm not in any way opposed to trying to promote the the beautiful metropolis of Toad Suck in the glorious state of Arkansas, but it's a stretch to give them credit for that pic, it's been on the Talon site for years.

All i can say is I'm glad my Veteran trigger is awesome from the factory because I could see getting into a lot of trouble with 7 different adjustment screws.

No kidding. Lots to play with there.

Mine has just a bit of a gritty feeling at the end of the second stage, right as the shot breaks. With the seven adjustment screws, which one needs messed with? 2nd stage tension?

Now that's a Rube Goldberg trigger if I ever saw one.

While these triggers FEEL like 2 stage ... in mechanics there a SINGLE with take up slop/gap of the first link from trigger pull rod determining the amount of Per-say 1st stage travel and spring under that 1st link controlling weight. From there is Knife edge settings and spring rates to get the total feel & operation correct.



Factory set up is really really good ... some fiddling by a competent trigger fiddler ... Stellar !!

Mine has just a bit of a gritty feeling at the end of the second stage, right as the shot breaks. With the seven adjustment screws, which one needs messed with? 2nd stage tension?

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Not at all familiar with that gun but looking at the diagram I would (if possible) remove the center arm (sear) and polish the areas inside the green circle as well as polish the top of the "first stage" travel adjuster screw and the area it contacts on that middle sear. If that center arm/sear can be removed then a little downward pressure on the arm to it's left while pulling the trigger might tell you if the gritty feeling is somewhere in the linkage to the left of that spot. When I work a trigger I always look at the non-functional edges and pivot points of all moving parts for any flash or possible contact with housing that can drag during function. The area where the trigger rod comes across that black head allen screw (far left in above picture) looks like a potential spot for drag as well. I assume that the arm under that black allen screw is the safety. That is one heck of a design but it does provide for a lot of adjustability.

Now that's a Rube Goldberg trigger if I ever saw one.

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Well when reviewing Ernest Rowe’s taipan mutant trigger video at, on, or about the 2:52 minute mark, you’ll hear those famous words, “best I’ve seen yet.” I suppose looks can be real deceiving, as I sure like mine. I’m not really sure on how to do the linky thing or if your even suppose to or I would.

While these triggers FEEL like 2 stage ... in mechanics there a SINGLE with take up slop/gap of the first link from trigger pull rod determining the amount of Per-say 1st stage travel and spring under that 1st link controlling weight. From there is Knife edge settings and spring rates to get the total feel & operation correct.



Factory set up is really really good ... some fiddling by a competent trigger fiddler ... Stellar !!

Click to expand...

Isn't that what a 1st stage is though? (honest question) If not how does a 'real' 2 stage trigger differ?

While these triggers FEEL like 2 stage ... in mechanics there a SINGLE with take up slop/gap of the first link from trigger pull rod determining the amount of Per-say 1st stage travel and spring under that 1st link controlling weight. From there is Knife edge settings and spring rates to get the total feel & operation correct.



Factory set up is really really good ... some fiddling by a competent trigger fiddler ... Stellar !!

Click to expand...

Isn't that what a 1st stage is though? (honest question) If not how does a 'real' 2 stage trigger differ?

Click to expand...

True 2 stage triggers actually MOVE the primary sear as you are pulling threw the first stage. As the trigger blade dynamics ( 2 screws typically ) transition from the 1st screw which as set determines how far the sear was moved to the critical breaking point, then it comes against the second screw which creates the per-say wall you pull threw to trip the sear.

In a true 2 stage there is MUCH safety because the primary sear has a LOT of overlap and only gets moved to critical with trigger blade movement.

In a 1 stage trigger the sear is hanging on a knifes edge all the time and any pressure against it has it trip.

* thus why the Taipans have adjustable gap on the 1st link & not placing any pressure or motion against the intermediate sear link.



Hope this helps ...

Scott

So looking at the first picture I understand that the Sear Adjuster changes how much sear engagement there is (obviously risky to make that too short).

The 2nd stage tension and adjuster set the weight and how much over travel the 2nd stage will have

What I don't understand in the picture is what the linkage tensioner and sear tensioner do?

Thanks for posting the Veteran trigger pic, Hooter.

One more thing owners should know: the screws are loctited (at least mine are)

Mine wouldn't budge. Might have to get a micro torch to apply some heat.

Luckily the trigger is so dang good that I don't mind leaving it as-is for now
Matt

So looking at the first picture I understand that the Sear Adjuster changes how much sear engagement there is (obviously risky to make that too short).

The 2nd stage tension and adjuster set the weight and how much over travel the 2nd stage will have

What I don't understand in the picture is what the linkage tensioner and sear tensioner do?

Click to expand...

Linkage tensioner "Spring" setting is one we generally don't mess with as it's job is to make sure the link arm it controls keeps the link in sync with the hammer position which allows the sear mechanics to actually cock.

Sear tensioner is just that, it controls the weight applied to the UPPER half of the primary sear opposite to the second stage spring adjuster which controls the weight of the lower half of primary sear.



Think of them as if looking at your hand/finger while you SNAP your fingers, to light and fingers just slide off one another, more tension and you get resistance with a clean break & a snap !! ( just a loose get the idea reference )

My Taipan Veteran has been a great rifle, so much so that I rarely shoot my other guns. One perplexing issue is that when pulling the trigger the "sear" (circled area) will move allowing the striker to release firing the shot, however the "main sear" (green circled area) remains in the cocked position necessitating pulling the trigger further through the stroke otherwise the gun will not cock normally. I tried many adjustments and sometimes this issue will stop for ~50 rounds, but always returns. Many months have passed working on this and I am stumped. All comments really appreciated.

Mine has just a bit of a gritty feeling at the end of the second stage, right as the shot breaks. With the seven adjustment screws, which one needs messed with? 2nd stage tension?

Click to expand...

Well, you shouldn't really feel any travel in the second stage, just a crisp let off. You can try a sear engagement with less overlap, just check it for safety. But when you say "gritty feeling", I'm not sure. That feeling is generally indicative of some small burrs, and some judicious work with stone files may be needed, by someone familiar with the procedure. 

While these triggers FEEL like 2 stage ... in mechanics there a SINGLE with take up slop/gap of the first link from trigger pull rod determining the amount of Per-say 1st stage travel and spring under that 1st link controlling weight. From there is Knife edge settings and spring rates to get the total feel & operation correct.



Factory set up is really really good ... some fiddling by a competent trigger fiddler ... Stellar !!

Click to expand...

The term "2 stage" seems to be over used. I see reviews on YouTube all the time saying guns having a 2 stage trigger when in reality, it's actually a 1 stage trigger with play at the beginning. I wish the reviewers, especially the more popular channel, put more effort in actually finding what a particular gun really has before saying anything about it. At this point, I really don't know which guns has which without specifically doing research about a gun that I might be interested in.

There are not that many true 2 stage triggers found in air rifles. This is not necessarily a bad thing, as there is little need for them, given the general range of applications. For those folks who prefer the feel of 2 stages, many of the fake ones, like the Taipan, can satisfy them. Two-stage triggers have their roots in military applications, for safety. And yes, both the makers and reviewers have taken a lot of literary license in reference to the two-stage nomenclature. In their defense, I'm not sure what they should be called. And at this point, few shooters understand the true 2-stage design anyway.

Wow that trigger mechanism is as close to a Rube Goldberg contraption as it can be!

Wow that trigger mechanism is as close to a Rube Goldberg contraption as it can be!

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Looks like a complicated mechanism, but sure can't knock how good of a trigger they are.

The one I mentioned (two years ago!) above that was just a bit gritty at the end, has since been worked on a touch by a buddy and he further improved what I thought was already a great trigger. 

Last time I measured I think my Short had a break at either 5 or 6 ounces and the Long breaks at 4ounces.