I have a little gx compressor and a couple airforce and fx guns. Everyone reads different on their gauges. Is there a quality gauge or better way to test the psi so I can see how bad the readings are?

I got a tin of these pellets and there pretty accurate to 48 yards , (sparrow accurate) They hit hard and make a mess of the sparrows , Not sure if its the flat surface or the harder lead,
No problem loading in my Prophet II magazine and smooth shooting ,, I really cant tell the sparrow pop is any louder than the dome pellets , But they seem to jump more from the impact of the wadcutter , I knock them off the feeder with the wadcutters ,, Just FYI,,
Mike

Good afternoon!
I have a problem with my Zoraki hp-01 5.5.
I recently purchased the light version, a used product, I only managed to chronograph it today, it's weaker than normal and I don't know how to solve it.
used pellet, 0.70 grams, 10.80 grains.
1 bomb: 85 mts
2 bombs: 120 mts
3 bombs 129 mts

For such a light bullet, it shoots well below average...
She achieves a considerable gain from the second to the first pump, but a tiny gain in the third and I have the impression that at the end of each pump she leaks.

Does anyone have any idea what could be happening and how to resolve it?

And thanks for the responses to my last post!

I'm selling a Benjamin marauder .22 comes with a extra valve and o rings and heavy hammer springs gun shoots amazing and no leaks. I'm asking 310$ shipped obo or throw me a reasonable offer. My number is

Think of it what you will, i´ll bet this was thought to be the successor for the Stormrider (which by all means still are in market)
Two flavors, the carbine (as we´ll check out) and the bullpup. For better for worse i got to take a more in depth look at their differences and the carbine n bullpup is as far apart as anything will get i´d say.
The bullpup basically being a dressed up PR-900 while the carbine is a totally new design completely on its own.
So no wonder what got to follow me home huh?



For lack of better wording i´d say the build is very "traditional". Traditional in as much, nothing we really haven´t seen before but that being said there IS a marked difference this time out as this is no doubt what so ever a budget offering.
Cause see.. things actually FIT vs each other and not only that it seems to actually be designed to be picked apart AND put back together again. At that materials used are no longer the cheapest reused Coke cans from the streets of the far east. Sharp tools has been used to make the various parts and with one big ABOMINATION for turn down the rifle is actually slightly amazing seeing what it after all is.
But.
This is about as budget oriented as they come why of course there´s been corners cut. Of course.



For instance. For some reason hammer spring force isn´t adjustable stock. There´s just this plastic plug that sports a sorts of spring guide and is run through by a retention pin that fix it to the main lower block. So one of the first things done.. a 6086 plug that i threaded for an allen stoppie, that in turn works a washer that centers on that screw within.
This pic though, see how the various parts fit vs each other while plz taking into account what we´re talking here.



Might be it´s a "mere" bolt action but truth be told the angle and how that thing fits.. makes for a world of difference. And it really does. That said, again.. look at how the various parts interact and keep in mind we´re talking absolute budget gun here.
As can be seen though, tube bolts to a valve and valve assy/tube is bolted to the lower main block - which also carries the hammer et al.
Then the upper block with the probe and so forth and of course they´re mated together so an old fashioned transfer port seals them vs each other.
Old, as thought, might be. It still works tho.

However. Corners. It struck me that no matter if 177 or 22 or 25 they all share the same internal dimensions for ports, hammer, springs, transfers and so on. What this brings is that no matter if you opt to modify for an adjustable hammer spring it´ll still stonewall somewhere around 35J/25fpe or so. In other words sans porting and what not do NOT expect this thing to ever become a fire breather of any sorts!
Yes. It is regulated and yes said regulator rides just upstreams of the valve assy. Handing a plenum volume that reminds very much of the old Snowpeak M-16 as well as P-15/35. Around 16cc´s or so it´s all in.
No wonder power is limited.



We´ve come to expect accuracy from pcp´s right. As such bone crushing hard trigger jobs.. are just plain out. Trigger is a two stage jobbie, that´s adjustable within reason, but with a first stage that´s just insanely stiff to my liking.
However. The springs inherent are very simple to swap as they all ride sandwiched between the trigger assy and the main block. Iow CAUTION as you let go of the two allen cap screws that keep the trigger assy on there.
Ditto, i will down the line reshape the trigger somewhat. See no need for that there in the picture.

...and again. Look at how the various parts fit and interact. This on an absolute budget tier gun. Impressive in my book.



Then for the, in my opinion, abomination.
WHY WHY OH WHY does Snowpeak insist on trying to convert the pcp world? First up, already at 20J that there in the pic is nothing short of useless. What Andy at AAR on YT came to dub "the Toblerone".
Might be. It carries a shroud right? Well, for a shroud to be of use it helps if the through hole on the diffusor makes for directing air down the shroud, IF there even IS a diffusor. Which there isn´t.
Then from that "void" on that thing there´s 4 minescule little holes designed in that´s supposed to make this happen?
Look. You ram the two pins out that retains the end cap. Then get a stiff pair of pliers and yank that there insert out. That done the outer housing is held in place with a sorts of castell nut and of COURSE this isn´t on a 1/2"-20UNF thread but on a regular metric M12. As the barrel outer is on 12mm flat.
I´m all good this is a budget tier gun but what would it have cost to just delete that there junk and add a 1/2"-20 thread out front?



So what i did was turn the snout of the barrel down some to take a press fit bung - to hold a decent diffusor (by me). Well...



Threaded the front portion 1/2"-20 to gain linearity of the unit as it was all on there. This no doubt worked, just shoving the stock diffusor tube forwards handing that it needed a fresh rear plug.



Yeah. Scratched it while at it but.. whatever. That rear plug now carried an o-ring vs the tube and in turn an o-ring in a pocket so cut vs the actual barrel. The whole "free floating" (within reason).
So.



At this state ported to 5,7mm - which it will take no issues. In other words the idea here is NOT for a fire breather but more so a setup that´s repeatable ad nauseam and rugged at that.
On 5.7mm ports and elevated reg pressure i was now seeing 34s out the snout to the tune of approx 75J. Rather SILENT at that, no thanx to Snowpeak.

But. That downright downfall there with the "moderator" and shroud assy... it still doesn´t detract from the build per se as i regard it. It is STILL very good value for money. Port it even (hope any and all at least knows how to swing a 5.7mm drill bit) and get at least decent numbers out of it, for a budget tier gun, and just accept that it´ll be noisy and you´re good as i regard it.
Any further on this piece though will take more in depth modifications.



Primary hinderance/stop as far as porting is that the one o-ring rides real offset on the barrel vs the port. A fresh such groove though... On porting in turn, remember to ALWAYS deburr the now increased diameter holes! Your o-rings will thank you if nothing else.

Anyways.
75J. Ok. What then?
16cc´s worth of plenum sure won´t do it why i´m current at it fabbing a larger plenum for it out of steel. Threads for the valve assy and regulator are regular metric M20 btw. Iow nothing major there.



I wanted to push the envelope a little for this budget piece however why i came to replace the rather short stock barrel with one on 550mm. In turn a larger diameter shroud and at that one of my own design 50mm/2" jobbies out front. A 4 chamber one in this case.

As such it of course turned WAY more silent in operation and.. a tad of self critisism might be in place here as i over time have gotten real anal about pcp´s n noise floor. Creating, forming and shaping sound is my day job so.. (yes, i´m an engineer)

But where we´re at i´d honestly like for one of them "Mickey Mouse" gauges we see on all pcp´s, just this one for reg pressure. Btw, yes. The stock regulator hands a tad of creep alright but will suffice for what´s at hand here at least me thinks and yes the thing is as adjustable as they come. Said Mickey Mouse gauge i´ll of course reference vs my glycerine filled one on my major compressor.

So.
Is the T-Rex carbine worth your hard earned cash?
Let me put it this way. If you´re content with the say 35J stocker then yes. Absolutely. If you in turn are a tinkerer and want to have a go at it, again a resounding yes (in contrast to most other budget tier pcp´s). This as the T-Rex seems to be designed to be picked apart and put together more than once, and from what i´ve seen will handle it flying colors.

Is the T-Rex carbine a contender for a fire breather? In that case, no. At that rate there´s other guns way better suited to bring you there... But as a sturdy build for pest control or what have you, sure.

Looking for laminated or other wood cheek riser for krait. Let me know

I originally bought the gun to take to Costa Rica when I moved there in 2017 (bought early 2018) and was not able to import it. The gun has never been filled with air/helium, never been fired. It is in cherry, completely new, condition. I paid 1500 for it - it was handmade by Brent Hoag before he sold the company to the Texas company and was made to tolerances that allow using helium if you want more power. I do not want trades - I'm looking to get some discretionary cash together for the purchase of something unrelated. I'll entertain serious offers.

Looking for an Hw100 in .20 cal. Possible trades Wiehrauch Hw97k in .20cal and Tx200HC in .22 cal.

I am totally new to the PCP game and am in the process of buying a FX Dreamline in .22. I think I will very likely add a few more rifles in the future, but I do not anticipate anything larger than .25. Thus, here are my criteria:

1) Ability to fill multiple rifles in a reasonable amount of time. 5-10 minutes per rifle seems reasonable but 15 minutes + seems like a pain.
2) Option to fill portable tanks so I can refill without the compressor in the field.
3) $1,000 or less for compressor and accessories (not including portable tank).
4) Not require a significant amount of maintenance.
5) New or extremely well maintained.
6) Needs to last for years of providing air for 3-5 rifles.

NB: I do not think I care about portability too much given that I want to go the portable tank route.

What are your recommendations? Does air or water cooling matter? Also, are there any accessories I need to consider? For example, I see some discussion of putting something on the intake to dry out the air.

Are there any deals in the portable tank world? It looks like many portable tanks are several hundred dollars.

Ideally, I would like to have the compressor, a portable tank, and whatever accessories I need for under $1,000 mark, but that may not be possible.

Thank you in advance for your advice.

SOLD. SOLD. SOLD. Selling my walnut Abernathy Stock for the TX200 (rt. hand). I bought it a few years ago from another member here with a few minor issues. I repaired those, stripped it down, and refinished it with multiple coats of Tru-Oil. It came out amazing, and I have been enjoying it since. It has an adjustable butt-pad (possibly Rowan engineering ?) and is such a solid platform ! I simply decided to go back to my factory walnut stock. Price is $325 SHIPPED anywhere in the cont. USA. No PayPal. I do accept Zelle, Bank Check, or U.S. Postal Money Order., shipping same day they clear. My feedback on here will speak for itself. Thanks for looking.

Last Price Drop on this incredible SSP. $700 plus actual shipping and insurance. You will not find a better price on a beautiful Diana RWS model 100. She was resealed last year, and comes with extra seals. My husband coming home Tuesday or Wednesday, and I really don't want it here for him to see one more thing he can't do anymore.
This is an incredible deal. You wont find a cleaner Diana model 100 anywhere, especially at this price. $700, plus actual shipping and insurance. First I'll take it, gets it.
Hi. Bought this for my husband, who got to shoot it one time and now in hospital with stroke. Can't move his right side and bills piling up. This was bought from Jeffrey Edelman, and he can vouch for the Diana and that we bought it. Hate to sell it so cheap but if you've ever wanted the best 10 meter airgun, this is your chance. It is truly like new. All paperwork is included. Beautiful RWS Diana 100 SSP 10m Match Rifle With All Accessories, Soft Bag -- Completely and Professionally Resealed 8/21 This is the original, lightly used, out-of-production (produced 1989-1998) classic hardwood stock single-stroke pneumatic RWS Diana Model 100 .177 Match rifle – the last model of Diana’s 10m target rifles which came after the famous Diana 75. Based on the serial number "00005075" this appears to be a Mark II version which had some improvements over the prior Mark I version. Excellent operating and cosmetic condition and I am the second owner. Totally and professionally resealed 8/21 with parts I ordered from WaffenCenter-Gotha in Germany (that includes a new piston seal, breech seal, valve seal, and sealing gasket) so shooting to specs around 580 fps and the new lucky owner should be set for a long time! Made in Germany and the RWS Diana name needs no review when it comes to higher quality though plenty of reviews are out there. This model is perhaps one of the more rare models – especially in this condition both cosmetically and with regard to operation -- a true collector's item. Also included as per pics are a nice fitting soft case with accessory pocket, original Diana rear aperture micrometer sight, front disc aperture sight with two different discs (4.0 and 4.2), two additional traditional 4.0 and 4.2 metal inserts (see pic for clever German design hood that, when removed from the same front sight allows it to use the metal inserts instead of the discs), an adjustment screwdriver that originally came with the rifle, an extra butt plate spacer, removable 50

Selling for a friend ..WTS - Cricket compact.-- in 177 this one has it all plenum - huma and 1/2-20 treads on the shroud for the LDC of your choice scope rail is the 2 screws to the stock version instead of one like they usually comes. $875 SHIPPED..

Read through this forum category and only found a couple mentions of what I am considering. I have 100 PSI instrument quality air online in my shop currently. I'm a retired dental equipment guy thus my compressor is a dental compressed air system with excellent filtration and drying. The unit has desiccant drying, very low dewpoint air is produced, about -150 F dewpoint.
I see the intake on my new 4500 PSI 30 bar compressor is 1/4 NPT. My thought is to plumb the intake of the HPA compressor to the output of my shop compressor. So regulate the source air to the 1/4 NPT port to ballpark atmospheric pressure? I'm thinking 10-15 PSI regulated input.

Anyone know where to get one that has 3 female m18x1.5 ports so I can put dual bottles on my marauder drop block that has an m18x1.5 male adapter?

Not a fan so far of the digital scope. Would be pretty mad at myself had I spent 700 but wow the gun. Straight out of the box mid 880 - 900 with 44.75 and perfect accuracy. Will make a great woods walker especially when I throw my Blackhound on it. .30 cal 500 mm. Two 51 yard 5 shot groups with a crappy digital scope. If you want a simple gun you don’t have to tinker with the Vulcan is the ticket.

According to the parts list I have, it's a small plastic washer. However, I contacted Utah Airguns, and they said the washer was switched out for an x-ring. I picked up some x-rings, and while they create a good seal, they make the gauge stick out a bit too far. This, in turn, causes the dust cover to sit out too far. Was there a miscommunication between me and Utah Airguns, or did FX make the switch and I just need to crank down on the gauge to get it seated right?

Thanks.

Long time plinker.
I want to buy this little fun plunger for the back yard. Is it worth it to tune with a kit? And if so which kit is best?
Anyone with experience with this gun ?

As an engineering student its so cool seeing the complexity in airguns, especially what is to me a doing more with less feeling. I’m not an expert in fluid dynamics, physics, ballistics, or anything like that but I see the difference in working pressures between airguns and powder burners as the most obvious cause for the disparity in terms of power and shot count, I mean we’re talking like 10x higher pressures with powder burners! So, why do we only see airguns with working pressures of 3600-4500psi? Is it a materials thing? Laws/regulations on air cylinders? Just that these pressures are what modern compressors can achieve? Or are current pressures already maxed out by Bernoulli’s Law? I feel like higher working pressures are an obvious or at least desireable next step in airgun tech- more power, more air to reg down for more shots.

Would love to hear from the experts out there!

I've been told at the beginning of August that I would be having the cheek rest for the Mora by the end of the month. I have yet to receive any emails regarding it being shipped as of this writing, September 3rd, so I decided to make one myself. Managed to find the right screws (M4x0.70x6mm) at my local hardware store and they thread easily. Printing off the final version of this right now, the magazine butts up against the cheek rest on the right side in the photo. Then I'll be printing in PCTG for better UV resistance. Soooo much better than resting my chin on the metal.

I've also created an adapter for the Nate Chrony. Didn't like the huge 55mm adapter he's offering so I've made on myself that has the M15x1 threads on it and it's working great! I'm going to try printing it in PCTG next as the PLA threads are a little weak.

New product @ Airgunrevisions.com
Available in RH and LH configuration.

Spent about 2hrs busting prairie dogs yesterday evening.

I tried to edit out most of the gore and dirt dancing.

Interesting to see that in nearly all the shots the slug goes right through them. Sometimes it changes direction and sometimes it continues on the same trajectory (bones).

Because of this slugs tendency to perforate, there are a handful of clips of dead dogs walking. I left a couple intentionally. They'll stagger around for 5-20 feet and then keel over, paws to the sky.

Not every shot is a clean kill. These are pests and reducing their numbers is the goal. Well, my goal is to have fun, but the landowner who granted me permission has the goal of reducing numbers so I shoot as many as I can. In some of the clips, dogs cans be seen running to and fro and there are often multiple dogs in the image. Lots of dogs, nearly infestation level. I've been warring on them at this spot for about 5 years and it doesn't seem to hurt their numbers much. Or if it does, it'd be scary to see how many there were if I hadn't been shooting them.

Just guessing, I'd say most of the shots in the vid are 75-125yards, but there are some as far as 175-180ish, and I think I even left in a 195yard shot.

The slugs used are the NSA .20/18.9grain. The Condor is shooting them @ an average speed of 850fps, making that just a hair over 30fpe at the muzzle. Many might say underpowered but there are houses beyond the brushy hill I'm shooting against, so low power is required here.

You'll notice I'm often not using the exact holdover point suggested by the ballistics program in the PARD DS35. This is due to either shooting into the wind, being under the pressure window for the gun, and most often because the laser rangefinder snagged a piece of brush between me and the intended target so the distance isnt exact.

2 ish hrs condensed into 6 minutes and I don't even know how many prairie dogs....40-50 maybe? Hope you enjoy watching it as much as I enjoyed the shooting.

(The annoying clickety click sound is the buttons on the PARD, I suggest watching it without sound).

I have a like new Texan 257 and a brand new hammer carbine .510... Looking to trade both for something 30cal or smaller... Let me know that u got

1 ea. SKU: 214071, excellent condition with "No limit" scope mounts! Free Shipping!!

ARGOS BTR GEN2 10-40×56 BLR, SFP, MOA list price,$479.00. ($399.99 plus $80.00 mounts), selling for $350.00!!​

Sold gun. Excellent condition, no issues. Scope data in pictures below.



Sorry no trades.

Free shipping to CONUSA.

Paypal Please or USPS Money Order

Thank you,

Renotwolf

Are there any NVD's (Night Vision Devices) with TURRETS?

I just took a poke at a pigeon with a sub-12 gun, at 75m.
Strelok spit out a holdover of 8.3mil.

But the Zulus 5-20x only gives me about 4mil holdover when at 20x.


Yupp, I know some comments that might be coming now:
▪ Don't shoot that far!
▪ Use a higher powered gun!
▪ Dial down the magnification to 10x!

Sorry, not helpful....

Now, if this was the version with the LRF the crosshairs would simply adjust to the range and I could just shoot without holdover. Granted.
But I really like my turrets — I'm a hard core turret dialer..... (Can you see how even my eyes are swirling and turning, just like my scopes' turrets....?!)


So: Are there any NVD with turrets, or buttons, to adjust elevation on the fly without having to go through 3 or 4 level-deep menus?


Thanks for your input... — I'm new to this night vision stuff....

Matthias

sold....​

​

300 DIN Female to Female QC Fitting. $25 shipped usps priority with tracking, Paypal F/F or you add the fees​