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Adding an inline silencer to a FX Crown Superlight barrel

I own a FX DreamTac compact in .22 with the mk I & II 28mm shroud.
To facilitate the fitting of a powerplenum with the 28mm shroud, I made some custom cones for the superlight barrel.

I already made an internal silencer for a .25 liner with a longer shroud, see this reply.

Recently I've bought a .177 FX Crown barrel kit to fit on my DreamTac using the custom cone.
I purchased the Huma air high flow TP and probe for this kit.
Initially I wasn't planning on adding an inline silencer.
On assembly of the parts I saw, even with the original shroud there is an internal space in the shroud of 85mm.

So next step will be designing and printing an inline silencer for this barrel kit.
I will use the same K-baffle design as the internal .25 silencer I've made.

Overview of the setup
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Room for internal silencer
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Difference between original FX Crown cone and custom cone.
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97cf carbon fiber fill tank condemned for a couple cracks in the thread

My local fill place, out of the blue imposed a visual inspection VI of my 97cf tank, despite having filled it there 3 other times without this VI. At this point I really do not wish to mention the name of the tank, nor where purchased from, until I'm able to get more info and second opinions. This tank was bought brand new and only have had it just over a year. The hydro is not due until just under 4 years from now. The VI technician indicated that near the last couple of threads inside the tank had 2 cracks in the threads valleys. This is my first ever tank and all this is new to me. He was going to condemn and destroy the tank, but without going into the specifics this was not done in lieu of some assurances, etc.

However after some research following the VI and crack notice, which by the way he let me see what he was seeing via some fancy magnifying scope with an adjustable bright light and some other gizmos on it. I saw what he was identifying as cracks and took his word that he's assessment was completely accurate. Unbeknownst to me, on further due diligence on this issue (after the fact, later that evening), I found that sometimes the VI tech will conflate "tap stops" with perceived cracks. So now I wonder if this may have been the case, as the article (https://imaginescuba.com/2020/12/28...r-what-differentiates-a-tap-stop-from-a-crack) indicates it is very difficult to differentiate a crack from a "tap stop" and I believe it said this is done about 50% of the time. The article further states that cracks in threads are rare. Sorry for my incorrect method of sourcing, but figure no one here would get too bent of of shape on any mechanical writing errors on my part.

So, may I ask if any of you forum members have ever had a similar experience with your larger CF fill tank, and if so what happened? I don't begrudge the VI tech for doing what he believes is safe and prudent. But on the flip side, I now have a tank that may be unsafe, or quite possibly was assessed a false positive for a crack. Either scenario is a drag and really leaves my in a very uncomfortable spot. While I have much more reading and research to do on this subject, I'm very torn on this issue. Even if I get a second opinion with a different outcome (passes VI), how does one really know who is correct. For in the article it does not detail how one could confirm if a false "negative" from a VI tech thinking that what may appear to be a crack is a "tap stop". How's does one know if a "tap stop" is just that, or if in fact an actually crack since it is difficult to tell them apart?

I will be approaching the entity where the tank was purchased and see what they may say about this and hopefully being that this is a fairly new tank, I would be able to receive a warranted replacement at no additional expenses. I'm already out for the VI inspection, but is small change compared to the cost of the tank.

Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated. Thanks.
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Sturkis field target arrived!

Ordered one of @Sturkis new field targets last Thursday, & it arrived last night- exactly one week to fabricate, paint, assemble, & deliver to my door. That's getting it done!
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The kill zone cutout is 2", and he includes two reducers in the base price. Added a third ($10) to cover 0.5" to 2" in half inch increments. Arrived with the 1" reducer installed.
Was able to get it out tonight for some backyard practice. Will probably get a cement block & use clamps to secure sometime soon, but just used tent stakes tonight & had no issues resetting. Set it out at 45 yards lasered, & got 60 shots in before daylight faded to black. Will post some "after" photos of the target below.
This thing just oozes quality. Steel used for the face plate, paddle, reducers & base is good stuff, but I think the "guts" (nuts, bolts, springs etc.) of the mechanism impress me even more. Fit & finish are great, cuts look really good with no sharp edges.
The action is tight yet extremely smooth. Don't own a sub-12 fpe gun to test myself, but Mike has tested extensively with no issues. Have access to all sorts of test equipment at work, and a small tool we use for indentation testing measured it right at 1 lb of force to actuate the paddle. All shooting tonight was at ~19fpe, and the target did exactly what it should. Hits knocked it down, misses (done only for scientific purposes, of course ;)) & splits did not. While lighting was good, was able to see one split plain as day (love that scope) at 3 o'clock on the reducer. The face plate stood.
It was not inexpensive, but high quality never is. My impression is that with reasonable care, it'll last the rest of my shooting days. Paint as needed, maybe a drop of oil here & there... that's about it. Mike advised me that it may need to be tightened up just a hair after the mechanism wears in, easily done by putting another ~1/8 turn on a few of the bolts. So easy a caveman could do it. And I should know.
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House Flip Victims

My buddy's wife used to think it was "cruel" of me to zap the greys around my house until they started flipping houses.

BACK DOOR
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FRONT DOOR
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This is a small sample of how many I have eradicated. Oaks surround the house; they're super picky about the mast they're eating. They don't sit still very long. However, the same cannot be said when copious quantities of birdseed and pecan chunks are added to the equation. 25MM HW97, JSB 7.87s. @25 yds.

Look what UPS delivered today.

I received a Daystate Huntsman Revere .22 We the Plinkers package. My first Daystate. I’ve been reading and watching reviews for several months and am impressed. The rifle is a work of art. The stock is absolutely beautiful.
Nicole is bringing NE Ohio rain for the next 3 or 4 days so I’ll see how soon I can get to the range.

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PCP Rifle  SOLD Taipan Veteran Standard .177

SOLD


.177 cal

I bought this Vet off this forum earlier this year and shot 3 field target matches with it. I’ve now moved over completely to springer FT.

No issues with it - accuracy is excellent and the rifle is extremely reliable.

I've only used JSB 10.34 with it and they've worked very well across both 20fpe (Hunter class FT) and 12 fpe (WFTF).

Included: Comes with the factory-standard single shot tray (installed in pics), 2 factory mags, and fill probe. Other included freebies: DonnyFL ½ UNF adapter (installed), 3d printed cheek rest, and single point sling.

Cosmetics: One small surface-only break on the front of the grip in the laminate due to something hitting it (never been dropped). This is not a mechanical issue and does not affect the gun’s functioning or accuracy.

Price: $925 all inclusive. Shipping is included in the price. Price is firm. No trades. Will be well-packed with the cylinder empty to make it safe to ship via USPS. CONUS buyers only, please.

Payment: USPS money order or PayPal F&F If you’re around Sacramento and want to buy in person, I’ll knock $25 off the price since shipping costs won’t be involved.

Pics: See all pics - this is what is being sold.

Note: As always, it's the buyer’s responsibility to follow all local, state, and federal laws concerning buying and owning this air rifle. Seller assumes no responsibility.

Thanks.

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barrel slugging question...

I pushed a few .2165 slugs through my 700mm CZ barrel just to check for tight chokes or whatever else. What I discovered is that there is little to no choke whatsoever which should be good for shooting slugs. However, I also discovered that the bore was pretty tight on the breech end...the first 1/2"-1" was quite tight. I pushed slugs through from both directions. When pushing from the breech end it's really tight for the first inch and then the rest of the way it is very free. When pushing from the muzzle end it's a little tight for the first half inch or so and then moderately free all the way to the breech where it gets fairly tight again for that last inch. Is this how barrels are designed or is the tightness of the breech end going to disfigure the slug too much for the rifling to engage properly?

I also tried .217 lighter and shorter slugs and the tightness of the breech compared to the rest of the barrel was magnified. It felt like the slug had zero resistance after the first inch of tightness at the breech.

SOLD WTS: AirForce TalonP Carbine .25 PCP Pistol with Factory Moderator and DonnyFL Adapter

For sale is my beloved Talon P. It's .25, single shot breech load that requires very minimal cocking effort and plenty of room for fingers for quick loading. It's never given me any issues and hits hard! I love that it is an external power dial thats super easy to make adjustments, as well as quick release built in so no need to fumble around with a probe. Selling only because I've since transitioned to a .30 cal. Included is the airgun with adjustable stock, factory moderator, DFL adapter for more options, and 1 brand new tin of pellets.

It has been handled carefully and is in perfect working condition and good cosmetic condition.

I'm located close by San Franciso. $650 shipped through Paypal goods and services (I pay the fee).

I'm new here but I've been selling on ebay for 20 years with perfect 5 star feedback https://www.ebay.com/fdbk/feedback_profile/transpeedmotorsports

I'm also a Calguns veteran with multiple positive transactions https://www.calguns.net/calgunforum/member.php?u=12605

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Avenger .25 over 80 FPE!

Finally got some time to do my 700cc bottle conversion which seems to drastically helped consistency it seems. Also changed out the valve spring to one that is in between the stock one and that lighter one I had to begin with. Got lots of new projectiles to send downrange. One of which is the Seneca pellet 43.2 grain which registered consistently over 80 FPE with the highest being 82 FPE Had regulator almost all the way up at 2800 psi and hammer spring all the way out. Side note I got a shipment of Zan slugs in and they are very nicely made. Was raining really bad here today so no grouping... Just chronograph info. I feel like with the even lighter spring I could easily go over 85 FPE.. attached is a screenshot of those figures. Those pellets are ugly as sin and don't fit in a magazine but they sure do pack a wallop.

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Ballistics software Mac compatible... ChairGun is gone.

I have been a huge fan and long user of the Chairgun software since the mid 2000's. Still have it on my iPhone and use it regularly. Had it on my older 2012 MacBook Pro now have a new MacMini and would like to install it here as well but it seems to have disappeared off the internet. ChairGun was, in my humble opinion, probably the most useful tool for setting up, tuning our air guns for the varying missions especially for determining optimum optic zero for a given pellet, at what speed, at what height above bore centerline to maximize shooting distance at optic center and/or what hold over/under at what ranges, printable dope card for most scope reticles to fit in the scope cap.... the list goes on and on.
Would think some 15+ years later there would be even more software that is more capable and even more user friendly, at least some updated version of ChairGun, but not really finding any available?

What are you gents using now?

Tia,
Paul


***EDIT***
Reached out to Hawke/ChairGun and promptly received a very nice and thorough reply, in short they are no longer supporting the software but did include links to the legacy software. Sadly once I was able to get legacy ChairGun installed, it is not compatible with Mac OS 11.4 BigSur so will not open.
Have iStrelok, only used a few times over the past few years for some AR builds and .17"HMR SageRat rigs. For the airguns I much prefer the ease and graphical representation that ChairGun provided for optimal zero distances with varying amounts of pellet rise across center, etc.

Brocock Sniper XR Vs FX Wildcat

The Brocock Sniper XR and Fx Wildcat in .22 are two guns I have been considering for plinking/pesting, not for bench rest as I have that covered. I like the looks and ergonomics of both guns and know both are from good quality manufactures, just wondered what those that own one thought of it. Maybe something you like better? Any and all thoughts appreciated.

Light pitting? Help restoring?

Good morning does anyone have experience with restoring light rust pitting on their guns? I would like to shine my diana p5 magnum up as much as I can. Ive tried some 3in1 oil on a rag and it helped a tiny bit but was wondering if anyone has had experience getting good results on something like this? Ideally I'd like to bring it back to former glory but realize that might not be fully possible. Are there any specific products or techniques anyone has had success with? Dont want to remove the rws writing or anything. Thanks for any tips.

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"Make Offer" on eBay minor rant....

Most of the the time when I have submitted an offer on a listing with the "Make offer" option showing, the seller has made a counter offer that is usually less than 1% off their asking price, sometimes only 50 cents less! At least once their counter offer was even MORE than their asking price. What is up with that? If they aren't going to accept a lower offer, why do they bother with the Make Offer thing to begin with, wasting my time and theirs?

Does base of the slug effects accuracy?

I've only been shooting flat base nsa slug in 25 cal both 33.5gr and 36.2gr. But now I see the new 34.9gr and 38.9gr and they are dish base or have a rounded bottom. And their BC is .110-.115 vs the flat base which is only .100. So are the dish base better than just plain flat base? Why is the BC higher than the flat base?

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