So I noticed on gamo's website they have

and

they're both .22 Swarm Magnum's but one is a "pro". what exactly does the "PRO" have that the "regular" one doesn't?

EDIT: ignore that one is a bundled kit. im just using that page to reference the rifle. its visually different from the PRO so im curious what all is different about it.

hi everyone

since the valve is a big factor regarding the tuning process of the fx impact
can i tune the gun for slugs and pellets at the same time?
for example the hammer wheel on 10 for jsb 34 gets me 920 and 14 gets me 960 on HN 36 gr slugs
OR do you think valve opening and closing will be an issue regarding accuracy while tuning for both ?

Just purchased a new AEA Megalodon .50 cal. Does anyone with experience know if this beast has a degas port like the other airguns I own?

I've edited this to fix the several spelling and grammar mistakes. I feel really dumb after reading them all. Sorry to anyone that had to read the original post...



Hello! I'm new to the forum, but this seems like the best place to get advice. I am not new to airguns, but I am new to the FX Impact. I work on all of my guns—centerfire and air—and have never had this many issues. I'm almost ready to throw it in the trash.

I am including all of my problems, even though they might not be related.

Some Backstory:
I bought a Demo FX Impact M3 .22 600MM from Utah Airguns a few months ago and have had nothing but problems with it. It seems that every time I buy an airgun from them, there is some major problem with it. I guess I haven't learned my lesson. To start off with, my "functioning gun" came with a junk regulator (4 disks flattened and caused severe reg creep). Then I installed a new Huma regulator. It was also missing a few random parts that have been replaced. I installed a Slug Power Kit and had several issues with power consistency. I have since removed everything, but the hammer weight. I have installed a STX heavy barrel liner and a carbon fiber barrel sleeve. I have lightly glued the ends to keep the sleeve from moving. At some point the valve rod bent (not sure if it was like that when I received it or after, but it has since been straightened out within a few thou). The first stage of the trigger sometimes gets hung up and won't reset. It will then proceed to fire when on safe. I have tried adjusting it, but the issue always comes back. There have been a few other problems, but I'm sure you guys don't want to read an entire book.

I currently have about 450 slugs through this liner. I am currently shooting NSA 31.2gr @ 990fps. My tune is 1st reg @250 bar, 2nd reg @ ~173 bar, front valve adjuster @.404, macro @14, and micro @ 4.375.

Now to my current problem. Every time I take the gun out of its case (after sitting for a day), my zero/point of impact is severely off from the day before. It seems to trend down and to the right about 2" at 40yds (my zero). I have had some extremes as far as 4 inches to the right. I check my velocity every time I take it out, and it stays within 5fps of 990fps. I can refill my bottle and shoot as many rounds as I want, and it will not return to my original zero. When I put the gun away for the day, I lay it down on its side on a foam pad. There is nothing that should be tweaking the barrel. The temperature and humidity have stayed roughly the same throughout all of this. I have tried retuning my gun a few times, and it doesn't seem to improve my situation either.

So far I have done the following to try to help remedy the poi shift.

1.) Carbon Fiber Sleeve (I have never tried shooting this with the factory o-rings)

2.) Ensured that everything is torqued to spec (scope base, scope rings, backbone, pic rail, barrel clamp, set screw that attaches and holds down the barrel by the transfer port.)

3.) Put on a trusted scope that has never had any issues before.

4.) Retuned the gun and ensured that nothing was getting bumped.

5.) Checked weights and lengths of slugs to ensure I wasn't getting weird seating depth issues. Also includes making sure slugs are clearing the transfer port.

6.) Swapped to 25cal Donnyfl moderator in case it was clipping

7.) Used gauge pins to ensure slugs aren't clipping shroud.

8.) Holding the gun in many different ways (I have heard they can be hold sensitive)

9.) Removed all o-rings touching the outer sleeve of the barrel

Some potential issues that may be causing it

1.) The carbon fiber sleeve has about .010 of play inside of the outer sleeve. (Should it be a light press fit?)

2.) The scope rail does not allow for centered scope rings on the tube. The front ring has about .100 of clearance from the turret. It is currently sitting in the only place for proper eye relief.

3.) Possible bad o-ring that I can't find. (I have taken the gun apart several times and can't seem to find any that are bad.)

4.) The entire barrel system (related to the carbon fiber sleeve fitment)



I'm sorry for the rambling, but I am at my wits end with this rifle. Has anyone ever had this many issues with POI shift? How were you able to fix them? It would be nice to know why you decided to change the part(s) and how much it affected the outcome. I'm willing to try just about anything at this point. I don't mind spending money to fix it, but I am also getting really sick of dumping money into it. I haven't contacted Utah Airguns about this issue, but I will not be doing that. That's a story for another time. I have debated on putting an Airmarksman backbone on it, even though it doesn't seem to be hold sensitive. I have also considered sleeving the old liner and glueing the carbon fiber sleeve to the outer liner, installing a tensioner, or machining a solid barrel. This is a hunting rifle, so I don't want to add a bunch of weight to an already heavy gun as I walk several miles every time I go out. First shot accuracy is very important to me, and I can't trust this rifle, which is a shame as I hadn't heard of anything negative about these guns until I really started researching the issues I've had.



I've attached a picture of my scope mounting so you can see what I am talking about.



Thanks for the help!

Fx maverick shooting all over the place will get 912, 889, 856, 816. Which i do wait for the plenum to refill and also have my first reg at 140 and second on 100. Also am shooting fx .22 atomic at 15.9 grains not sure why new to pcp but was told to have 140 for first and 100 on second dont know if it's just the tune.

Recently acquired the Bulllshark in .177. Actually shoots quite well for it's price. It currently shoots around 1100 FPS w/ crossman premier HP too hot for my needs. I'd love to be able to get this thing down to under 800 FPS. Is that possible and how? I can't seem to find any tuning instructions on this specific rifle. I'm assuming this can be adjusted via hammer spring tension and or regulator adjustments, but have no idea where to start. Any help appreciated.

Cannot Get some pellets into the barrel. Looks like the barrel was not cut centered and when closing the barrel it clips the pellet. Trying 14 to 18 grain pellets some will not go into barrel. Any suggestions or should I send it back?

Hey guy!

Thinking about possibly grabbing the Avenge-X

Does anyone have any experience with the aftermarket stocks from saber tactical or terminator?

I was wondering what the weight of the stocks are vs the OEM tactical stock

Pyramid air lists the saber tactical stock as 2.75 lbs (not sure how accurate that is)

I'm unsure what the OEM weighs or the terminator (I reached out but he didn't have numbers)

Can anyone fill in the blanks? Are there any others manufacturers I should be looking at for stocks?

Thanks guys

Question: Where are the "sweet spots" in velocity when tuning a.177 or .22 air rifle?

Back story: While I'm "mechanically challenged," I'm trying to tune a .177 RTI Prophet Compact. The last owner used it for shooting slugs. I'd like to use it for pellets. (JSB 8.4s would be ideal.) I've had good results by adjusting my .22 rifles to shoot around 880-890 fps. At one time I owned a .22 Vixen that shot accurately at around 700 fps. And I assume that the high power rifles must shoot accurately at velocities above 890. So--generally speaking, are there multiple sweet spots in velocity, is there only one ideal velocity when tuning a rifle, or does it vary from rifle to rifle and barrel to barrel? Thanks in advance for your help.

Hello all
Trying to put together a list of chronographs that calculate BC
I know of the FX true ballistic and when it is released, the Caldwell velociradar, but are there any others?
i wasn't positive about the lab radar or Garmin being able to do the BC...Can they?
Thank for the help

Hi all

I am thinking about getting a FX M4 in 700 mm, but can not decide what caliber to get. Having already owned a AdvengerX in .25, should I stay with .25? Or shouldI go with .22 instead. I will used it mainly for hunting, pest control and a little plinkin. I am using mainly pellets, not sure if will go into slugs. All advices will be welcome. Thanks all!

I am new here. Hope everybody is well and doing good. I would like to find out a simple question, is ATN optics with the night vision better than Oneleaf Command NV 4
I am wanting to find out because I am looking to put it on a Hatsan Vectis 25 cal.

I just installed MERO
The installation went smoothly, and I have been playing around with the program's features and formats
I particularly like the reticle view but cannot get it to show the windage offset no matter what wind velocity & direction I plug into the file.
Can someone in the forum advise, please?
Thanks
Edward

I have the .58 version. When I fill the tank and take that first shot there seems to be an extra amount of air being dumped. I'm thinking a seal isn't acting properly . Since this rifle has nothing but seals/o-rings I wouldn't know where to start looking. Could anyone help me out? Thank you in advance

Edit- thanks everyone for a lot of answers. Before I posted this I did not know enough to simply ask the question any better.
So here is what (or how) I think I should have asked it:
Why does the drag law I am being told, or recommended, to use in certain apps differ?
Why does the bc on the tin not match what the calculator says it will do AND not match what I see in real life?
I have a ton of stuff to go try out now and I don't feel stuck so thanks.

P.S.
Some people are super smart and they like showing off and that can come across as talking down. But I grew up on the less fun end of a one-way range so it's pretty hard to hurt my feelings. I'm new to improving at this level, not 10 years old.
People can be any combination of wrong, right, nice or a big turd about it. It's all paying for education and now I've got homework or else I just wasted everyone's time with a less than optimal question that ya'll kindly took the time to try to answer.
I can tell you all that there are a LOT fewer and less angry know it alls in this world than in real guns, 3 gun especially. Some folks maybe should be nicer and other people maybe need to let more attitudes slide.


Guys and gals I have been doing my homework which means I have tried figuring it out on my own before bothering you fine folks.
I have a chrony built into my barrel and one at 25 yards.
I am using JSB Exact 44.75gr, a well calibrated mg scale and a brand of micrometer for head size that is so German I'd get kicked out of Disneyland (again) for saying it out loud. What am I doing wrong?
I'm getting bcs from low .03s to mid- high .04s.
I've read some things that are way too complex that I don't have equipment for, radar and such, but we have been figuring bc on paper forever.
What do I do? I intended to go through all my JSB weights and play on all the ballistics calcs to scratch my autism itch for the day but I never got past the JSB exact 44.75.
Frustrated in Fenix

Hello all, I was wondering if anybody out there can help me out.

I own 7 FX Air Rifles. I am having problems with two of rifles at the present time.

One is FX Revolution and the other is a FX Monsoon. Both guns were just resealed by a gunsmith that I have used for a very long time.

When I got the rifles back:

The Monsoon is holding air, but it has a slow leak.

The Revolution is holding air, but it will only work in single shot mode, not the semi-auto mode.

My Gunsmith told me he can't resolve the problems. He even sent the Revolution to one of FX's Repairs Center and they sent it back without even looking at it. Stating they don't work on older FX rifles!

So right now, I have two very expensive paper weights.

I have contacted all three of the repair stations that FX has listed on their website and all three of them told me "THEY DON"T WORK ON OLDER FX GUNS".

My last resort was to contact FX in Sweeden and sent them a very lengthy email explaining my situation. I just received an email back from them with a list of trouble shooting options and diagram and parts lists which I already have.

That Doesn't Help! I am 80 years old and can no longer work on any of my rifles.

Does anyone know of any Repair Shop, Air gun Smith or Individual that can help me out?

Any information that you can send my way would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for looking,

Stu Gabriel (Mrgun)
[email protected]

"Hello guys

I'm looking to buy my first PCP rifle. I live in Mexico, and it's quite challenging to find a good quality/price option.

After researching on this forum and YouTube, I found two promising choices, and I would love to hear your recommendations on which one to buy:

* Air Venturi Avenger X
* JTS Airacuda Max

I should mention that I'll be using the rifle mainly for plinking and target shooting.

Also, for each rifle, which scope would you recommend?

Thanks for your help! I really appreciate your advice

I loaded my new GK1. Then, without flipping the "back" lever, i shot it. Now it is jammed
and dumping all air. Bummer, but my fault. Now what??

Thanks in advance

I should stick to my Brococks!!!

Hey been a while since I've last posted. I asked this question years ago but not sure if things have changed.

I saw the newly released Umarex Komplete. I really like the idea of being able to take the gun and a couple cylinders out to go shooting without having to bring a handpump, compressor, and/or bottle supply. However, I'm not 100% bought into the whole N2 cartridge. I'm worried that Umarex will be the only company with these N2 cartridge guns and then they stop making them and bam.... the Komplete turns into a paperweight. On the other hand, if it does well in the market, I'm sure Crosman will release N2 Cartridges which will help drive down the price of the N2 cartridges and there will be more of these guns on the market.... given these would not be for the enthusiasts with the FX Impact M4's. anyways.... getting off topic.

Is there any air rifles out there that have swappable air cylinders/bottles on the fly? Or ones that can be modified for being able to swap the bottles? Like for instance... would the Umarex Gaunlet 2 bottle accept one of those inline on/off valves that is super low profile and you twist to turn on/off. Then you'd just have to shoot the air out of the plenum and then you'd be able to swap bottles.



Thanks!!!

Just recently picked up the Avenge X, Manual says to use Silicon on O rings on the bolt probe every three months. Any special type of lube recommended?
Also how many turns on the hammer spring counter clockwise without removing the screw?

Thank you in advance.

I am new to PCP airguns and would like to know how to improve my skills with scoping. How can I learn where to set the numbers on the scope for targets at 50 yards, 80 yards, or 100 yards? How can I remember the correct scope settings for each distance?

So I recently bought a fx impact compact in .30 cal I’m looking for a good tune for it thanks

Does anyone have an extra probecarrier that not in there rifle. I need for them to mic the width of the assembly from hammer pin to top. I'm putting a gun together but the pin has moved and I need the exact size to set pin in probe carrier. Should be somewhere between 18.30mm and up. I can get it right guessing,but don't want to wait till utha opens tomarrow either. If somebody would do this for me I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks

My Benjamin Marauder 25 is leaking air between the gauge and the adapter that threads into the pressure tank. The oring between the adapter and the tank is fine. The pressure gauge threads into the adapter with straight threads. There was a black material in the threads, maybe some kind if sealant. I tried teaflon tape to no avail, what do need to put on these straight threads to seal this, and thanks in advance.

Dan