I have the FX Dynamic 700mm in .357. To keep it short I’m looking to shoot a 145 ish grain slug and reach 900 to 950 fps. As of now after replacing the stock hammer weight with the 8mm hammer weight I’ve found myself at 170 bar on the regulator, macro/micro maxed out and shooting 830fps. Any adjustments, wether it be up or down in pressure along with macro/micro adjustments just drops fps. Is there anyone that can point me in the right direction or am I “pushing rope”? Thank you in advance.

I ran out of pellets and the temps are supposed to drop to highs in the mid 30's, which raised the question in my mind, when is it too cold to tune?

For Christmas I finally broke down and bought a Competition Electronics ProChrono DLX. I wanted to see exactly where my 3 Weihrauch's stood. performance wise.
The oldest of the bunch, the HW95 (with a new Vortek PG4 Tune kit) perfomed as expected with an average 765fps shooting H&N Baracuda Match 10.65g pellets.
The HW90, after pumping a tad more air into it, is shooting 905fps average using the same pellets.

This is where Im totally confused and a bit peeved. My HW80 with very little pellets ran throught it (probably less than 250), is averaging a mere 425fps using the same 10.65g H&N's. This rifle is supposed to be a "Magnum" springer or so I thought, yet my Benji & Sheridan's blow it out of the water as far as power goes.

Any idea why Im getting such lackluster performance out of this HW80? Its NEVER been stored cocked, thats for sure. Do I need to break down and buy a Vortek kit for this one as well ? The Vortek kits are smooth as silk and I love how it tamed the HW95, but I read somewhere that power may suffer if I treid putting the kit in the HW80. It seems at this point I have nothing to loose. Geeze.

I am wondering if it's adjustable and how good is it?
Thanks for your time!

Currently big into rimfire but looking to update some other stuff in the gun room.

Wanting to fine tune my BRK Commander XR magnum .25 for optimal performance @ and past 100 yards. Have to go through it as my brother left it in the rain while I was last deployed. Tank is slowly losing pressure as well.

When I left it was shooting dimes @40yd. Hadn’t messed with it since I saw a little rust and was told what happened.

Anyone have one of these? Right now it has a Bushnell Match Pro ED, Ergo 0 grip, and saber tactical bottom pic rail w/ Atlas BT 65.

Was considering a 700cc tank, adding a FabArms R.A.P stock (or other PRS style), and finding a longer ARCA to replace the saber pic.

Admittedly, I am not sure how to best tune it would be and am looking for advice or sending it off for a full cleaning/tuning. Thanks to all in advance.

Supposedly not that rare or old, but like the Crosman 99, they seem cool. Anyone have an idea how hard to rebuild? Also a tougher question, a fair price? I tried looking it up online with no answer

I’m kind of new to PCP rifles but I have never seen one like this. I’m not sure if it’s missing something but I can’t find a fill port or gauge or anyway to fill this thing. This is what the tube looks like.

Tying to I.D. a loss of power in both a .177 and .22 Avenger.

Both a .177 & .22 operated correctly for 6-9 months, then the loss of power in both guns. Spent 4 months sending the .177 back to Air Venturi multiple times. No joy!

I first measure efficiency with a chrono. I measure mutiple reg pressures looking for the knee. Enjoyed shooting well for 6-9 months. Now I get a 80-100 fps drop in efficiency compared to the original numbers. Also shooting, used to get 2nd zero at 60 yards, now its 45 yards (backyard max range).

Didn't notice any air leaks. Cleaned the barrel. Virgin at taking the gun apart, but I got the Aveger seal kit and replaced the reg and hammer spring. Didn't fix the problem. I read on posts the O rings need lube or replacing under the reg.

How do you get the Belleville washers and O rings out for servicing. Looks like you need to force them. Didn't want to without more info.

Replaced the reg with no service to the O rings because I didn't know to remove them.

Hey. New Sheridan Blue Streak owner here. I recently acquired two of them, and one of them is a bit harder for me to cock, and just doesn't feel as smooth.

Dumb question: would it be a bad idea to lube the bolt with some pellgun oil or something on the back end, let it work in and see what that does? Or would that possibly be detrimental in some way?

Another dumb question; is Mac 1 still doing his thing? Seems the website is down, haven't tried calling due to the holidays, but was curious if he was still doing the Lord's work for these things. The one with the not-as-satisfying bolt action was maintained by the previous owner dropping oil in the "oil hole under the pump arm", and that one seems to be noticably less powerful with the same # of pumps. Was thinking of using that as an excuse to send it off to be resealed, drilled for a peep site, and juiced to the gills (erm, air tube?)

Probably repeating myself here, but here is the question. Crosman 600, just rebuilt, re-builder (very experienced) can not explain why it miss feeds every 4/5 pels. Seem they jam in the carrier. Putting a new spring in a day or two to see if this improves the situation.
Any help appreciated.

I have my FX Panthera tuned for 33.95 grain pellets. If I decide to try slugs I know I will have to retune the air gun. Of course my scope is zeroed for the 33.95 grain pellets. I'm assuming I would need to re-zero my scope as well as retune the air gun. By the way, I am new to air gunning.

Tuning the air gun seems to be the more simple part of the problem. But re-zeroing the scope would be a pain when changing back and forth. I guess I could just find where the new slug is shooting and adjust my scope until it hits the target reliably. But then I'd have to remember for a specific new slug where do I set my scope as well as my air gun tune.

I can see where the electronic airguns like Daystate have an advantage that they can quickly change the tune. Now if they could have an electronic scope that also could be set to a new "tune" that would be great for air gunners that want to switch between pellets and slugs.

How do others in my situation handle this problem? That's my big question. Do most people find one pellet or slug that works and stick with it? I'd like to hear from those air gun shooters on how they handle this specific problem. And maybe if there are better solutions than I have thought of then please tell me.

Has anyone removed the butt pad [including the plastic piece] from the wood section with success. It appears to be glued down or they had it attached when they put the finish on the stock. TIA

What is the best, most accurate big bore 45 cal on the market for $1200 or less?

Why has my Remington have no power When cocked/break the rifle?

I am wondering the best way to clean my Dragonclaw ll. Suggestions on the best products/equipment to use? Thanks in advance.

How many fpe/fps would a Gamo red fire .22 need to penetrate 1inch of one board?

Could a airgun specifically a high end pcp be good for a zombie apocalypse? And if so what would be the minimum caliber and energy level you would recommend.

Is there a way it increase the pis so the the pellet has more knock down power? I tried squirrel hunting but after 20 or so yards the pellet seems to not penetrate the squirrels, I have the 25 cal also I’m looking for a more powerful 25 cal bolt action that is left handed if any of you have suggestions, thanks in advance

My 2015 25 cal Marauder is stock and I assume is a Gen 1. When I first bought it I recall it shooting in the low 800's using JSB's 25.39's. The last couple years it's shooting in the upper 600's and is accurate. My preference is to get the velocity back up in the low 800's. I've search youtube and forums trying to find a solution for increasing the velocity. I've opened up the valve metering 4 CC turns and have backed the spring off and turned it CW one turn at a time but the velocity seems to stall in the 680's. It appears not to leak off pressure while stored.

Are there parts I need to replace to regain velocity?

I've followed the information in this link down through where it mentions increasing hammer tension 1 turn at a time.

Hello,I'm new...I have a benjamin franklin 357 air rifle,trying to fix it would like to know what it needs if it still will pump a few times and cocks and fires,will not hold pressure does it just need seals? total rebuild?thanks

I am having trouble with my Dragonclaw II. I cannot seem to get it to shoot straight. I can always hit the target but never get it zeroed in. I have tried with Seneca round balls, hollow point, flat nose, and even the 330 grain flat nose slug! I have shot boxes of ammo trying my best. I always shoot my shot with the pressure the same for 4 shot groups. I'm just not having any luck. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

How many people here from the new Iberia -lafayette area??

Where is the best and cheapest place to buy 50 cal pellets for my Dragon Claw? New to air gunning and trying to get it all figured out! There seems to be A LOT to sort out and even more differing opinions! Thanks in advance for the help!

Anyone know what Ace hardware store oring will work as a replacement for the oring on the valve inside the fill nipple for the armada? It is a flat oring. It is the white one in the picture.
tim

I have a Diana 48 .177 which I purchased used around 1990. Though I have not shot it much the past few decades, I ran it across the chronograph last night with some 30+ year old Crossman premier 7.4gn wadcutters, and some H&N Barracuda Hunter Extreme 9.52gn pellets that I was able to acquire locally. A tissue over the breach does not move when fired, so I suspect my underwhelming energy at just under 12 ft-lbs is likely just a tired old spring. This is a US market gun, so I would not think it to have been a restricted version. What might I expect out of a tuning kit vs just a new spring? I would like a bit more power for small game hunting, maybe somewhere closer to 18 ft-lbs would be nice. The gun seems smooth enough, but I don't really have anything to compare it to. I was looking at the Air Riffle Headquarters VRT kit or GRT spring, either of which seem to be drop in compatible to an untuned Diana 48. I don't understand what the VRT or GRT mean. There also seem to be several different piston seals available, I am not sure what the differences between them are. Thanks in advance for any guidance or options.

VRT Kit - RWS-Diana 48-52-54-56, Chinese Sidelevers-B21,22,30, SM1000
or the
NEW-GRT RWS 31,34,36,38,40,45,46, 48,54,300 Spring

10 shots with the Crossman 7.4gn @ 21 feet from the muzzle
Avg 824.45
StdDev 6.04
Min 817
Max 833
Spread 16

11 shots with the H&N 9.52gn @ 21 feet from the muzzle
Avg 709.91
StdDev 3.6
Min 705
Max 715
Spread 10