Last year I bought an Agm thermal clip on for night pesting and what not. I had to make no adjustment to the first gun I had it on. This fall I changed guns and it is off by about couple inches low and to the left.

I have re-read the online manual about 50 times to try and figure out how to adjust the POI. Unfortunately I misplaced my hard copy of manual. When I first got it I went through all the functions and figured everything out. Put it away for the summer and forgot the functions. It seems to me there was a push and hold two buttons to open the POI adjustment. However this does not seem to be the case according to the online manual but there are also more menu options shown in the manual than in my unit. If anyone has any help or a quick way to adjust the POI I would appreciate it.

How many of you guys have had gun tuned by Paul Watts?
I sent a Hw97k blue laminate in .20 caliber to be tuned by him maybe 8 years ago and it's still shooting strong as ever. Sweet tune that last forever.

Kinda of a good idea?

I have a Pard NV007SP and my scope is a Element Titan 48 mm in the back side. The adapter ring that came with my Pard doesn't fit with the scope. So I've tried to find out a 48 mm adapter ring for the NV007SP, but there are only for NV007S. My question is: Does the adapter for NV007S fit with the NV007SP?
Thanks in advance

Thank you for the trade! @Tamatie The .177 Taipan standard is taking down big iguanas no problem with the .177 h&n hornets

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well i get tired of problems and low qc of umarex gauntlet 30
so looking something that will work out of box
targets 100m or even 200+ if 100 become less fun
anything else in that price range 1400-1800 ?
thanks

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Not new to shooting, but pretty new to air guns. I am looking to buy a Seneca dragonfly m2 because of all the positive reviews and YouTube videos. The only pump pellet gun I have now is a Crossman 2100. It’s a nice accurate gun, but at 70, pumping it up is a pain. From what I can tell the Seneca is much easier, has a threaded barrel for a moderator and much easier to mount a scope. I will be buying a .22 for the a couple of reasons, much better for the occasional squirrel or woodchuck I want to kill, and it’s just way easier picking up and loading the larger .22 pellets.
I have not seen any negative reviews of this gun, but would it be a good choice for backyard plinking and occasional hunting?
I do not want to go down the rabbit hole of pcp, I would just as soon save the extra money for good pellets, good scope, and moderator.

Is there a competitive scope that's under 1k (new) for WFTF?

Anyone knows?

Wondering about the male end of my 0DB that came with BRK Atomic XR. I'm new to the PCP world so please excuse my ignorance. I see all moderators come with a female end. My 110C has a male end. I assume it's removable. If so, how is it removed? I tried unscrewing it, but no go. Couldn't find much with my initial searching. If someone can enlighten me, that'd be really helpful.

Dumb question, but I was wondering how to post to classifieds. Do I need to wait a certain amount of time or have a certain number of posts? New to using forums, usually just use Facebook. I just need a place to sell an airgun.

Thanks.

Just got a used crown mark 2 30 cal with 600 mms barrel. Wanting to shoot hybrids 44.5 in it at close to 900 fps that I can get. I read that 160 bar is max pressure. Is that true? I also read that Earnest Roe tuned the crown to 170 bar. What do you recommend.....Thanks...

Good evening all. I recently acquired a veteran compact. Sort of addictive these vettys are as this is number three. My questions are:
Is there a way to date the year of manufacture?
How many years where the veterans made in Ukraine?
Does anyone know the regulator pressure for .177 ?believe it to be around 120 bar??
Thank you in advance for sharing your experience.

Hello everyone
First of all does anyone know if the normal sized Predator Polymags fit the in the magazine of Gamo or can only be singled loaded?

Second of all has anyone shot both of these pellets recently and knows which one is better for accuracy or penetration? I have read that the polymags are better quality in another forum but it was like 15 years ago...

And lastly is there any difference between Predator Polymag normal vs short version except from the length?

Hello Airgun Nation

I hope you all can help me learn about making custom spring guides for spring piston air rifles. I thought I could reduce my learning curve before the chips start to fly by tapping into the collective knowledge of members here who have made custom spring guides. I would greatly appreciate it if they would share some of their hard earned wisdom born of experience. I will list some of the questions I have been considering, but would welcome any empirically derived advice.

I will begin by making a set of guides to fit the OEM spring in my TX200, but hope to move on to making improved guides for some HW rifles and perhaps others.

I know this subjects gets pretty deep in terms of really tuning a shot cycle, and I would welcome some suggestions about how to think in that regard, but my initial goal is just to dampen all spring vibration and get consistency in the rifle, I guess as measured by the chronograph.

I am thinking of starting with a guide made of acetal, for ease of machining. Is there a significant difference between the acetal homopolymer Delrin and generic acetal copolymer material? Have you had more spring guide failures with the generic copolymer material? Is there a compelling reason to use another guide material?

I am hoping some of you can share your “order of operations” for making spring guides?

I would love to know your reasons for doing certain steps before others.

Do you bore out the interior of the guide for the piston latch rod before sizing the outside diameter of the guide to the inside of the spring? Perhaps, even with a tailstock center this would make the guide flex too much and complicate turning to a precise diameter? I have never worked with acetal on a lathe.

Does anybody bore the interior then mount the guide on a mandrel for turning the outside diameter?

Do you use a slip washer in front of the top hat?

Are you using a two piece rear guide and leaving a loose fit between the part of the guide that goes into the spring, and the washer-like spring seat that slips on to that longer part of the guide? I have read this can keep the guide from failing in the area where the longer part of the spring guide transitions to the flange that holds this slip on washer/ spring seat. This loose fit can potentially also help with both spring torque and latch rod misalignment on the piston. What type of clearance or “slop” are you allowing between these parts?

Do you have any details to mention that you think are important. Places to chamfer or radius the guide parts for durability or performance?

If you read this far, and want to help an amateur who is about to start making his own spring guides, Thank you!

Hi all,
I know kral parts are tough to find but it doesn't hurt to ask. Does anyone have or have a lead on a Kral puncher breaker hammer and the retention screw that goes in it? I've gotten the usual nowhere with Kral currently have mail out to airgun spares who I saw mentioned in another thread, but it's not looking good. Any help or direction is appreciated. Thank you

Do you use a moderator?

I tried using iPhone photos (IMG) from my Mac, but this website won't accept it. How do I do it? Thanks for the help.

A friend and I have started getting into small game hunting/target shooting with air rifles. Currently been using a gamo magnum break barrel with no complaints. Potentially just wanting more, which demands PCP it seems. I've acquired some info so far, but still looking for some suggestions

-Cleaning/maintenance frequency and complexity

-Reliability of PCP rifles in harsh weather

-thoughts on buying second hand?

Things I'm looking for in order of importance:
-Range, being able to trust something at 100+ yards would be very nice.
-Weight/Length , Im on the move a decent amount and shoot standing up sometimes, it would be awesome to keep under 7-8 lbs and not be too terribly long.
-Reliable, don't want it constantly breaking/Jamming on me.
-Magazine capacity of at least 5. The more, the better.
-Semi auto would be really nice, but I could be talked into bolt action.
-Stopping power is not something I'm terribly concerned with, just needs to be able to drop small game at the ranges expressed above.

My price range is preferably 500-1000, but some of these high end semi autos are making me think again. A second hand leshiy 2 or a steyr hunting rifle would be pretty cool. Just not into the 3-5k that would cost to have done all-new. Thoughts on the AEA terminator? Just seems like those are good for about 20 shots before they need refilled.

Or is something like a bolt action daystate more up my alley?

I got my father-in-laws Daisy 840 and want to put in new seals.

Has anyone rebuilt one of these and where did you get your parts.
I am having trouble finding them.

I want to get it done so I can pass it along to his grandson.

Benjamin Marauder .22 semi auto, forward assist is stuck open. Fresh out of the box, I shot about eight clips; down to about 1200 psi. I filled it to about 2700 psi, and loaded a fresh clip. I got one shot out, then a blank. I pulled the trigger once more thinking it was a misfire, nothing again. I took the clip out and it came out with the o ring pinched in it. Now the bolt is stuck open and won't close. Any suggestions before I start taking it apart?

Wondering if anyone knows the exact hose size diameter for the bleed valve (inside and Outside)? I took my side cover off and noticed it was against another line that gets really hot and melted it and I would like to get it replaced. Anybody know where to order one. Thanks in advance.

Looking for some advice please with an old Slavia 622 air rifle; as you'll know this is an ancient thing but has a few things going for it in my eyes. The main thing I want to do is introduce my grandson to the sport and the size of this is perfect so he can handle the gun without size induced awkwardness whilst learning safety etc. The problem is the shaft through the piston rotates in use so that the notch on the shaft, after a dozen or so shots, no longer engages with the primitive sear making cocking impossible. I say "primitive" as it can be stripped down to very basic components although this takes some time. I can't see any mechanism to stop the shaft rotating in the piston although surely there must be something I am missing, does it require something to act in that slot perhaps?. Spare parts in the UK are not available and indeed the seal seems to be riveted on anyway; any advice on how to stabilise the piston would be gratefully received.