Struckat said:

I think the factory/ARH seals need to be fitted.

I’ve tried that without success. Sure I didn’t do it correctly.

I use Vortek seals in my HW95
The factory seal in my 30 is still as good as new, performance wise. But I have a vt to put in there when needed.

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YES ... ARH expressly states to be installed by a knowledgeable / experienced airsmith stating they are oversize requiring sizing & fitment * Which is a Good thing !!
As very few air tubes are the same exact size, perfectly round etc .... So the one size fits all approach is weak by comparison. Tho does fit a nitch for many who self service w/o miens to do a better job starting oversize and fitting comp tube for a perfect fit.

Also seals come in different configurations ( Type sealing edge utilized ) Those undercut being a semi flexing lip and those that are solid on outer edge requiring precision fit, which are generally faster seals, but lack being able to seal well in out of round or tapered comp tubes.

For OP, great to hear your finding success and getting the power wanted

Just bought a Rovair 4500 from Pyramyd Air.
It wasn't filling consistently. Sometimes it would take 1:50 to fill, sometimes it wouldn't fill at all until I moved the hose around. I replaced the hose o-rings with these from amazon:

Sterling Seal & Supply 010 Silicone O-Ring, 70A Durometer, Red, 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD, 1/16" Width (Pack of 10)​

Now no problems. Cheap and reliable fix.

Thank you very much for the reply I don’t remember seeing it in the owners paper either I looked for information about changing the coolant but I could not find anything. Thank you very much for the information.

Just replaced the plenum o-rings in my Huben Dream Valve 7075. Had another problem that I posted earlier and that seems to be cured. One of the 4mm x 4mm set screws at the plenum swivel was leaking before the new internal o-rings and is still leaking after their replacement.

My fingers are to fat to be able to wrap the set screw with teflon tape. My guess is that there shouldn't be any air where the set screws are located, but the o-ring replacement didn't slow down the leak at all. It is only leaking from 1 of the two set screws. I am contemplating taking it apart again and tapping the hole to a larger set screw and see if that will stop the leak.

Does anyone have suggestions for curing the leak?

Thanks

Looks Good!
Maybe add a level ..either on the rest or the rifle to help prevent cant errors

PSA-Long Range FT - Palmyra, PA-LRFT Match


Saturday, April 5


Palmyra Sportsman Association


410 Sportsman Rd, Annville, PA 17003, USA


Description for LRFT events:


Long Range Field Target will follow a shotgun start format. Registration and sight in is 8:45am - 9:45am, followed by a shooter's meeting at 9:50am, and first shots down range at 10:00am. Cost is $15.


Targets will be placed between 15 and 115 yards, and this will be at least a 40 shot match. Guns cannot exceed 80fpe at the muzzle, and we recommend using at least a


28fpe gun to knock down longer range targets. Distances to the targets will be provided.


This match is held on our covered Competition Range, and will be shot rain or shine. The range has a concrete pad, so this is friendly to shooters with low mobility.




Target


Northeast FT Events

Nice

But man, what reg pressure do you have to run to send those 23gr .177 )) 0.11 G1 BC lol…

I keep seeing posts on different sites for people looking for Cricket Carbines, AOA has a beauty on their site in the used section, if anyone is interested.

Wonderful shooting thru the foliage and nice videos!

Agreed, oil-less, waterless, multi-power, high-speed-fan only cooled rectangular box quick-fill compressors are alike. Expected lifetime is 12-18 months with limited rebuild success. Manufacturers support, "discard, buy another," versus, "rebuild/repair." The GX-CS compressor series differs significantly in that lower gearing, slower fill operation reduces compressor-killing heat while grease-injection and water-cooling are available in some models. GX-CS also supports, "repair/rebuild," over, "discard, buy another." WM

Well i did fight the Two yesterday, in my last overhaul ( lube job ) i made a small change on the firering valve, and that was poor judgment on my part.
So after the first box of 13 gr slugs i took the Two apart on the bench and sorted my valve, and BAM i was in the money again.

One other thing i noticed today, when i started shooting around 10 it was still a bit nippy outside, and when i started shooting my shot string was aside for first slightly out of order shot, the next 10-15 shots was the exactly same speed, but then the string started to fluctuate as my rifle dropped from a higher inside temperature, and after 40-50 or so shots the string was so uneven i had to do hammer changes.

It seem like airguns / some airguns not liking cold weather too much is nothing new, i also hear the new RTI is not at all a happy camper in cold weather.
Mind you i did get my string in working order again, but what worked excellent last afternoon / early evening, did not work today at least not after a few shots.

Alsi tried a few Beast pellets before i changed to 16 gr slugs, not at all a success, but i did expect this CUZ it was also my feeling when i shot the first part of that tin.
JTS / JSB regular diabolo pellets in the 10.?? gr weights work fine, or they did last summer at least. MRD pellets also seem to be working, though i think more meddeling can make them even better.

I still have my backup fill, in the form of Viking airgunner / Peter, his Bauer Junior compressor is still going strong.

BTW also tweaked more on trigger the day before this outing, it can not get any lighter first stage and trigger break, stage #1 very short now, you do not want to mess around with my trigger, ans you go for it you are committed to the shot.

rangur1 said:

Well, it is an open assessment. I was indicating new, out of the box. But one can’t dismiss a 1200-1400 model acquired used. But my knowledge in the 500-1000 price range is minimal. That’s the reason for my inquiry.

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I’ve got one of the guns you mentioned, the huntsman.
To start the Zelos for around $450 new may be equaled ( doubt ) but can’t be beaten

Scotchmo said:

.257 ammunition is not really “costly”. You won’t save much, if any, with a .30 when compared to a .257. Cost is somewhat proportional to projectile weight. In order to save, you’ll need to stick with light pellets, so a .177 or .22 might be better if cost is a main consideration.

$0.19 for NSA 75gr .257 slug
$0.16 for JSB 50gr .30 pellet

Click to expand...

TBF, I frequently send more expensive ammo than either of those mentioned, so probably wouldn't let ammo cost get in the way of a particular air gun type that I really want to shoot. So yeah a $3 difference between boxes of a 100 isn't significant to most people.

The relative lack of ammunition options and the upfront cost for a niche gun that I couldn't justify was probably the bigger reasons that I passed on the idea.

Shooting pellets is underrated anyway

Good on ya brother! 1st airgun I ever tore into was my AT44. Each time disassembling & reassembling got progressively easier & boosted my confidence level. Really glad you persevered & were successful. You learned stuff you're probably not even aware of yet. It'll be applicable to other guns should the need arise in the future.

mil said:

What was the answer

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Bottle has a valve, but the tube it's connected to with pressurized air will be released, so unscrew the bottle SLOWLY and let the tubes pressure release slowly until empty then continue removing the bottle .

If it works, who cares. Perfect is the enemy of good enough!

rodio555 said:

OK, I see. So basically you would have to de-gas it then remove it. Correct?

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Just like with the Nitro bottle when it gets low.

bthurman said:

Your check valve is in need of repair, or seal needs replacing. Veradium Air is parts and service center for for Evanix.

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Where are they located out of. Thank you

Here's how mine is set (though I have the slug power kit) https://www.airgunnation.com/thread...ellet-pusher-to-wild-25-slug-monster.1329622/ but within there's also a good video from UA on how to tune your M4.

-Michael

I built one of these one way valves about a month ago and installed in the output of my filter. It worked as intended for topping off tanks but my compressor (GX CS4-i) then ran much hotter than normal. There was no obvious cause and effect relationship but the heating problem went away when the valve was removed from the system. Perhaps my one way valve was posessed by a mutant Maxwell's Demon.

JackHughs

If you're a glass freak..................Vector
Save some money.
The glass in my copy is stunning. Along with the way the super sharp reticle is done.
I would never have believed this, until I saw it with my own eye.
I do not know what Vector is doing with their glass , but it works. It works well.

PCPGUY said:

I have the skinny plenum 600mm barrel and not to sure about the hammer components. I was thinking of just starting to update everything piece by piece. Like the power block kit, slug kit, transfer port etc.

I’ll bring reg down to 150 and see what happens, hammer is maxed out

Click to expand...

I would certainly recommend the Power Block kit, you will see a nice boost in performance. And a hammer weight and spring will be opened up and easy to swap out while you are installing the Power Block kit anyway. I would consider the Huma tuning kit over the FX slug kit, and for sure get the Huma transfer-port and probe.

Might consider playing FT instead of BR.

See ya there!