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NEW for 2025 Athlon Rangecraft Chronograph

I ordered one from Optics Planet and they had it listed as in stock but gave me a delivery date of 5 June. I cancelled the order.
I ordered from Optics Planet one time. Took them months to send me a scope. When I received it, it looked like a used item. Took longer to get a refund than the item. Never again. Not recommended. Caveat Emptor.

FX  Panthera Valve Rod Leak

Every single car manufacturer out there for at least the last 20 years. Lots of little bits made to barely do the job by the cheapest supplier that will totally screw or confuse a computer, which tends to daisy chain to other systems not related. They can be hidden away where a knowledgeable tech with lots of experience would need a full 10+ hours to get to it and put everything back, with a book value of 15-20 hours. Problem is, most stealerships run on a seniority system with the techs, the senior techs take the good jobs(book value high, they can do it in way less time and knock 5-6 jobs out a day instead of 2-3). A friend of mine is a tech at hendrick's honda dealerships, he has been there long enough(30 years) so he generally books a minimum 80 hours a week and often much higher, and works about 35, I think his all time high was booking over 120 hours in a week, actually working less than 40. So you typically have the junior techs working on the problem childs until a manager may intervene. All for a 10 dollar part or worse yet, just a wiring connector that renders some system wonky but not dead because it gives computers random data that propagates and affects other unrelated systems. Very common with all manufacturer's. I know two people, one on a ford f350 just short of 3 years old and one with an audi 2 years old that the manufacturer's bought their vehicle back rather than fix it after months of being in the shop. They knew what was wrong with the ford, built on friday afternoon, a ton of substandard connections that finally deteriorated to the point you fix one another fails when something up or side stream is "fixed". Every single inch of wire would have to be pulled on the truck and replaced. The truck was crushed when they bought it back, too much money to do that on an assembled vehicle and replace the entire vehicle wiring, it would require entire truck being taken apart. The audi is out in the wild with nothing but a manufacture buy back on the vehicle title, anyone buys that one is screwed, after the first 9 or so months from new, it never didn't have a problem, many of them and getting worse every month. At least the ford guy didn't have to hire a lawyer, the audi guy had to get a lawyer.
Well, my question was rhetorical, but I see your point and wholeheartedly agree.

JackHughs

Tuxing 4.7L

Seems like a good option to have. I did ask because somewhere I had read about a rifle that needed the air to be removed to go one way or the other on the reg pressure... Can not remember though. Thanks
A lot gun regs have to degas just to access the adjustment screw.

Some regs like the Huben Power Dream regs they specifically state you can damage the reg by going down.

I'm not an expert by any stretch so I tend to err on the Huben Power side. But I have quite a few of their regs.
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Airgun Technologies  And …. What about Vulcan 3 700 mm .25 Cal?

What's velocities are you getting with what ammo's?

I tried the 29's in my V3 which is tuned for 99 fpe with 60 grainers and the 29's shot horrible in it but they were going 1060 fps. Though the 29's shoot well in my Uragan King at 925 fps. This pic was 10 at 50Y with the King/29's and windy.


I don't shoot my V3 much because the Altaros 60's are pricey so I kinda need to find a cheaper solution for a slug to plink with.

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Air Arms  CO2 pistols

Two things.
Best results are with wadcutters.
Push the pellet in until it bottoms out.

I put a tiny little bit of krytox grease under the belt and it works pretty well. Better than having oil leaking everywhere. I have only had a couple of jams before greasing and those were with round nose pellets sliding back and forth. When you push them in until they bottom out, it flairs the skirt a tad.

Binocs & spotters...who use.?

I guess I never reported back. I was cruising through Motonet a couple months ago and on a whim busted a pair of Gamo 8 or 10x binos out of the box to check them out.

I looked up into the rafters all the way across the store, easily 50+ meters and I could see dots smaller than .177 pellets in the white paint. For 30 euros I took them home.

They work great for me at 50m. They do fall off near dusk but so does my diopter sight. There is a little chromatic aberration, but it’s not enough to really mess you up.

For the price, highly recommended if you can hold them steady enough to look through.

Western Big Horn Bullet Press

This price includes shipping only available from Nielsen Specialty Ammo and AOA.

We also have the pure lead wire for sale on the NSA website to be used with the dies.

Link below will take you to where to purchase the press, dies and wire.


If you already have Corbin dies you can use them in our press with no modifications or use our dies in Corbin Presses as well. This is for the H press style dies.
Thanks Nick, good info, it’s appreciated.

Resources  N50 - 2025 Score Page is Live

The N50 ScorePage is live. Your club will be auto-added when scores are added.
Rangemasters can add planned match dates now.

Example shows OG completed matches and Raton schedule (partial)
View attachment 532149

N50: https://www.national50.net/
FB N50: https://www.facebook.com/50National/
AirGunNation: https://www.airgunnation.com/forums/benchrest.558872/
Benchrest Central: https://benchrest.com/forum/forums/airgun-benchrest.19/
Thanks for all the work that you do on this Lou!

Pointed slugs

I had a 375CT that was 34 pounds with a big muzzle brake. 350gr Hooker solids at 3250 fps. Between the brake and the weight the recoil wasn't bad at all. Not much problem hitting steel 2500 yards away.

When we went to finish load development at Ben Avery shooting range they kicked my friend who had a 375 like mine, and me also, out of the range, LOL??!!
I took her out today for a little testing. This is just the begins stages of testing just to see what she’ll run at.

Sorry guys didn’t mean to hijack your thread.
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FX  Impact m4

Ok guys I made my mind up im ordering an Impact m4 600 mm in .30 cal what are some good pellets to start out with. Thanks. I have never owned a .30 cal pcp alot of .25 and .22 but never a fx or .30 can't wate lol
There aren’t really a lot to choose from. Try on the 44gr first and you probably won’t have to look any further. JSB and FX are the same. Compare to the AEA.

Moisture filter question

Yeah I understand what you are saying, but since I don't have a tank and will be filling the gun direct, would that change things? Also curious if there's a reason why you couldn't leave your filters charged for a day while you are using it frequently. This would obviously require check valves on both sides of the filter and a proper bleeding process to depressurize when finished, but my thought is that this would save you that 5 mins every time you want to top off the gun. Then again, doing all of this might end up adding up to the cost of a small storage tank...
I leave the tanks on my guns pressurized for months at a time. So, all things considered, I guess it would be OK to leave the filters pressurized for a day or two - something to consider.

JackHughs
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Skout  Epoch HPR low max pressure after rebuild

Finally found the time to take HPR appart.
It seems that changing SK-OU7008 did the trick.

Thank you @manabeknives !

While I was at it, I changed SK-OU9003
Thing I don't understand is that what was wrong in the first place because I've changed ALL o-rings on HPR and LPR
Maybe something just didn't sat right...

Will it continue to leak remains to be seen...
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FX Barrel Liner Indexing

dnye1986


The slug isn't pushed completely into the liner, only enough so that it sticks without movement. A slight push with the thumb is all it takes to do that. Since it's conical, it self-centers.
Once it's 'stuck' in the muzzle, then it becomes your marker for clocking, instead of trying to mark your liner end and erasing it with removing/reassembling the liner tensioner.
1.) Remove the tensioner from the liner/shroud.
2.) Mark the 'clock' positions on the side of the liner that is sticking out from the shroud (most go at least 4 clock turns: 12-3-6-9 o'clock for instance).
3.) Insert slug with the etched mark into the liner, NOT all the way in, just enough so that it doesn't move, and is in alignment with say 12 o'clock. It should be sticking out past the liner muzzle a tad.
4.) Reinsert the tensioner watching that the mark on the slug moves to the correct location (Top Dead Center).
5.) NOW, remove slug with tweezer (BE CERTAIN TO REMOVE SLUG BEFORE FIRING!!).
6.) CHECK TO ASSURE THAT THE SLUG HAS BEEN REMOVED!! Test fire to verify POI.
7.) Repeat until all four 'clock' positions have been test fired by moving the liner to Top Dead Center (12 o'clock to 3 o'clock, then to 6 o'clock, then to 9 o'clock) and aligning the slug mark to each new clock setting after moving to Top Dead Center.
8.) After getting the 'clocking' complete, decide which one is correct (normally the one that prints closest to Top Dead Center), then remove the marks on the side of the liner that don't work and leave the one mark that does (say it's 3 o'clock, so remove 12-6-9 o'clock marks).
From then on, after the need to remove your liner for any reason, always use that mark (the one 3 o'clock mark) to align with the slug mark and then tighten the tensioner to align to the Top Dead Center position (AGAIN, REMOVING SLUG BEFORE FIRING!!).
It's a little tough to explain, so if you still have questions, just ask or PM to clarify.

mike
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FX  FX M3 C1 ''TOP HAT'' issues

It’s been an issue for many many years. But it should never bite you again once you start working on the gun yourself. And if you don’t beat the piss out of the C1 with some dumb tune or use a flimsy little valve spring. Red loc-tite? Absolutely no freakin way. Chemically clean the threads and inside the C1, then use blue. If you clobbered the C1 so bad that you now have sloppy threads, replace the valve rod and C1 or whatever they are calling it now. I’m sure it has a new part number.
This ^^^
just another reason not to YouTube your Impact. The list of negative side effects is long.
Happy to see the OP digging in and finding and fixing on his own. great guns just not for the mechanically adverse among us.

N/A  Uragan or Veteran

I really like my Taipan Vets . I ordered a Vet standard in .22 cal a few years ago and liked it so much ordered another Vet short in .177 about a week later . I was impressed with how quiet , smooth and accurate they are . No need for an extra moderator that adds to length , at my power levels . They came with a single shot tray , 2 mags and extra O-rings. I picked them up for $1100 each and they are my main pesting airguns and occasional target shooters . A solid well build airgun, and for plinking in the back yard or shooting tiny groups I would bet the Taipan 2 would be a great choice.

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