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RTI  RTI Mora issue

Wolfiek Group seem to be OK people, it is via them i got my Two
And they been very helpful with this issues i have had.

Issue #1 a LW barrel with a big choke in the middle of it ( supposed to have no choke ) exchanged to CZ barrel by Epic i took direct contact to but wolfeik was also responsive and fast as the seller which i of course also notified.

Issue #2 suddenly leaking valve when shooting ( some times fixing itself some times not ) here i have seen wear on some valve parts and also crushed O-rings ( a O-ring that i think is a bump stop and not really a sealing one )
Both also very helpful again and problem also fixed, though i am not really sure what the problem was, i have shot a lot since i got the Two in late April, about 2000 shots a week.

I hear RTI have good service too, this is good CUZ it is the only place companies can make a difference today, not least competing against bigger brands.
Service is also important though i always hope to never need it of course.

Regarding Mora i like you can access valve return from outside unlike Two, though i also feel having played a little with it, that at least with a 700 mm 4.5 mm barrel there is nothing good to come after there, but i have seen videos of SUB12 UK people gaining shot count by adjusting this on a 4.5 mm compact version

Shot count are nothing to me as i shoot tethered at the bench, accuracy is everything to me, look / functionality is secondary to me
It do annoy me pretty much all air rifles have no option for a forward bipod placement from the factory, i do not like bipod right in front of trigger guard.

Do You shoot Report Cards?

Wolverines are great rifles. I have the Hilite version. Stacks pellets and makes less noise than a mouse fart.
What do you feed your mice to make them fart ? i have never actually heard a mouse fart ,so i am not sure i would recognize the sound of one farting ? Maybe i should buy a Wolverine (in what caliber ?) amplified to simulate a mouse fart ? maybe i could train a mouse to fart on demand ? WOW a whole phase of this hobby i never thought of .

Airforce  Airforce talonp hammer change

If you try to go out the breech end you have to get everything past the trigger sear and auto-safety tab, and think of all those spring coils getting hung up on the sear. I found it to be easier to set the power wheel low, like #1, to reduce preload to the spring, remove the barrel screws, unscrew the little allen screw on the power wheel (don't drop it, it's small!), and then slide the guts out the barrel end. With a little "practice" you can do it in under a minute.

How long does a pcp airgun bottle last for?

I’m sorry I don’t have much sympathy for anyone dumb enough to get on that sub. It’s literally amazing the trust we put in people we know absolutely nothing about. Yeah I got 250 grand burning a hole in my pocket so WTH lets gown down to see the titanic. I mean I’m sure the people that built this little Tylenol bottle knew what they were doing. Darwinism at its best.

Question about Barrel Breech End O-Ring used on the PP-800 / Artemis, Bandit, Snowpeak guns / free O-Rings

I did not know about the different material but I have used 70 hardness Buna N and they seem to work fine.
Hello @JimD

The specifications for the Brown FKM O-rings that I received from OringsandMore show to be 75 Durometer.

ThomasT

GX CS4 add water to grease pot??

Hi everyone! My CS4 has been a workhorse for the last 50 hours of run time up until the weather got cold. Now that the temperature dropped and the unit is in my garage, when turning it on it pumps very very slowly. I cleaned the check valve located underneath the burst disc as well as the check valve located in the steel pipe coming from the head to no avail. I found a video from Jason at GX that recommended to add water to the grease pot to flush out any debris or possibly excess grease from the internal check valve located within the high-pressure piston (which requires disassembly to clean or replace)

Has anybody tried this method yet and what were your results?
if that is the way it should be flushed, they would have stated that from the company who makes the compressor.
Remember the old saying, they mix like water and oil all i see is black death for that compressor coming from adding water to a grease port.
old school bad idea.
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Athlon Optics Ares ETR UHD 15-60x56

Yep at 15x Athlon would need a much thicker reticle which then means most wouldn't like the reticle on high magnification for target applications such as Bench rest.

This scope is awesome for Bench-rest because I can easily see 22 cal holes at 100Y in poor lighting and 1/8th moa clicks for finer adjustment.

I like this scope more for Bench-rest than FT because the reticle is so thin and I lose the hashes sometimes in dimly lit target locations which would be a problem if I used those hashes all the time like in Hunter class. If Athlon could bump the illumination brighter and illuminate the entire reticle then I'd be fine with it for FT as far as using the hashes for the holds in the reticle. As it is I shoot in Unlimited locally and have been shooting FT for so long I don't use the hashes anyway because I know pretty much how far out to aim. I like the illuminated center dot and have it all the way up then pick the spot on the steel I want to aim at for wind with whatever magnification I like at the time and I dial for elevation.

However I prefer FFP whenever I can get away with it. One reason this scope is so clear is it's SFP using fewer lenses and which FFP would probably not be as nice as a FFP. So a catch22.

I hadn't heard about a G2 ETR version but that'd be cool.
The Cronus really needs a G3 version because other Co's already have their G3's. I hope a new Cronus would be more of a G4 version to be even better.
@steve123 Your take on this scope and it's purpose in life, matches mine exactly.

My plan for this scope is to use it for a single EFT event. Textreme 6-9 Dec in Clifton, Texas. Clifton location doesn't involve dark lanes and seems (to me), to be wide open with bright skies = provided there is no rain.
After The December Textreme event, this Athlon Ares ETR UHD 15-60x56, will be moved to it's permanent home on a full time Bench Rest platform.

My dabbling into Bench Rest has been a quest to find the right gun / scope / front rest, yadayadayada combination, that works for me.
I thought I had my BR choice search narrowed down to just TWO setups: #1 a Ghost Blaze edition with a .22 FADY K 28" World Record Barrel
or #2 a .177 or .22 regulated USFT Mac1; both using Leupold 45x45 target masters. However, when i started shooting a new edition of the .177 Redwolf HP my thinking changed dramatically. That Redwolf HP barrel is something of a marvel; so much so that i bought a highly adaptable PRS Chassis (two pounds more weight in just the chassis) and a 700 cc Bottle (more weight) with the full intent of using it for one thing and one thing only = punching little holes in paper at 25 and 50 meters. The Leupold 45x45 target masters are indeed great scopes for BR, but to my 68 year ol eyes they don't have near the clarity or "pop" that this Ares model has.

FX  FX Impact M4 700mm sniper - slow leak

My FX Panthera 700 came with a leak on the regulator valve from factory. I know that it is a different gun, but this is a common place where leaks can occur in these guns in general. Just try to adjust the regulators a tiny bit (e.g. 1/8 of a turn left or right). I did this then the leak stopped. After that I have continued to tune and adjust the regulator and the leak didn't come back (knock on wood!)

FX  FX Impact sniper M3 700mm .22 with heavy liner

Today I finally made some progress. I installed the slug power kit from FX, and the speed of the JSB KnockOuts 25.39 gr increased to 990FPS with macro on 16 and micro on 4.5. The front valve is somewhere halfway between 4 and 5 line. The 2nd regulator is on 135bar.

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I will post another update after I have done some more testing.

RWS  Diana RWS 48 cocking arm locked up

For reference OP.....

Ignore the trigger mech it's from my 48 bullpup, but you can see the ABT, and in my mind the only way your lever could get stuck SOLID, all the way open, is for your ABT to still be infront of the comp tube or for your piston seal to be totally wedged into the comp tube (hard to imagine how though).

Screenshot_20241128_122412_Gallery.jpg


Ideally ya need someone to hold the action/ arm while you remove stock. You'll see if it's the ABT straight away. If it's not you'll need to hold the arm and unlatch it via trigger 🤷‍♂️

N/A  Reximex RP/Hatsan Jet 1 comparison video?

I have a Reximex 22 Pistol , It had a air leak and is on its way back to Pyramyd , To me the Reximex seems to be a improved PP 750 as I have a 750 and can kinda compare , I was told the Reximex is a copy of the AP 16 , I have never held or shot a AP so I can't say ,, But what I can say is I was impressed with the Reximex pistol, Never shot or held a Hatsan pistol so I have no information there , With the over size magazine problems with the 22 and 177 GKL I may just invest in a 177 Reximex Pistol,
Mike
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FX  Impact m4 proper hammer seat install

The extra hammer weight take up spaces inside the hammer hense it changing the spring pressure and spacing. It's the same when you crank up the power wheels and micro to max and it won't cock. That's why you need to back down on the power wheel and micro. Either remove the extra weight or just don't turn power wheel/mirco to max.

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