Pneumaddict said:

I’ve been playing with a .25 caliber Beeman model 1332 Raider for the last week. After a day of walking the woods hunting I noticed the POI had shifted. I tightened all the screws and re-zeroed. Two days later I noticed the the POI was off again. Not much but enough to cause a miss on a squirrel at thirty yards. Not happy I replaced the heavy scope with a lighter one and found some lower, heavy duty magnum springer rings in my box. I hunted hard for two days but never got an opportunity to shoot at game. This morning I had the opportunity to take some test shots out to 75 yards. The first pellet hit four inches to the left. I cranked on some azimuth to the scope and tried again. Dead center that time. Now this may be the result of indifferent zeroing the last time I adjusted the scope. I was zeroing at 20 yards with a correction for elevation to 35 yards (1/2 mil high at 20 yards) so I may have inadvertently biased the scope to the left and not realized it until I stretched the range out to 75 yards. I took my time and zeroed the gun at 75 yards with 20.06gr H&N FTT. I’m going to drag it around hunting for a couple more days but I suspect that the synthetic receiver is not securely enough attached to support a scope without shifting.

Are there any other Beeman Raider owners here? Has anyone else experienced wandering zero after scoping this gun?

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I have no wandering zero on mine, but I only target shoot and treat the rifle gently.

In the field many airguns will have a wandering zero, with or without a synthetic receiver.

1900colt said:

I would agree with this. The external converter is FAR easier to not only replace...but we also sell upgraded/larger ones for those that are filling bottles. The larger converter runs cooler too... plus you can use it for other things that need to go from 110 to 12V.

View attachment 514108

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I bought my GX4 from Mark .

That's all there is, regretfully. No magic sauce....

The Falls Township Rifle and Pistol Association in Fairless Hills PA (Philadelphia suburb) will be holding our final Field Target match of the year on Sunday 17 November 2024.



The 10 lane 60 shot rifle course is laid out on the lakeside trails of the club’s 3D archery course. Within the confines of the 30 targets we have also laid out a 20 target / 40 shot course for those who wish to shoot pistol only or be adventurous and compete in both disciplines. We have laid out a fun and enjoyable course with the hopes to challenge experienced shooters as well as provide less difficult targets for those just getting into the discipline. We certainly look forward to seeing all our regulars, and urge them to bring a friend and invite anyone interested in Field Target to join us for some fun. Our Match Program is pasted below.



John Stellwag

DATES: November 17th. (The third Sunday of the month.)



CLASSES: AAFTA, WFTF, Hunter, Unlimited and Off-Hand. PCP, CO2, Pneumatic and Spring powered rifles and pistols all permitted. (additional non-AAFTA classes may be available).



RULES: A 20 Foot Pound Maximum applies to all rifles; A 12 Foot Pound Maximum applies to all pistols. Current AAFTA rules apply to both Rifle and Pistol configurations.



ELIGIBILITY: Open to all shooters. Both club members and non-members alike.



FEES: $10.00 for Rifle $6.00 for Pistol $15.00 for Rifle and Pistol



TIME: Sight-in and practice 8:00 A.M. to 9:15 A.M. Registration is from 8:00 A.M. until 9:15 A.M. Mandatory shooters meeting 9:15 A.M. The match begins at 9:30 A.M.



COURSE OF FIRE: Rifle: The match will consist of 30 targets, two shots each. Distances will be from 10 to 55 yards.

Pistol: The match will consist of 20 targets, two shots each. Distances will be 10 to 35 yards.

You may use open or optical sights. Tie breaker targets will be used for both rifle and pistol, if a tie exists. Rifle and Pistol matches will be shot concurrently. If a shooter opts to shoot both rifle and pistol, they will shoot pistol first and then rifle at each lane. Eye protection is required for shooters and spectators.



Food will not be served however sodas, water, and light snacks may be available on a donation basis. The match will be shot straight through with no lunch break. You may bring your lunch and eat in the clubhouse after completing the match if you desire.



AWARDS: Awards will be based on raw scores. Awards will be given for all classes. Pins will be awarded after the matches as soon as the scores are tallied. Please Note: If there are insufficient shooters in a given class the match director may consolidate classes at their discretion.

MATCH DIRECTOR: John Stellwag Jr. Telephone: (856) 313-3120​

E-Mail [email protected]​

shot placement is overraited when your pushing over 300 fpe for coyotes,

I want to add my voice to those expressing how well the match was run. A massive undertaking and it came off without a hitch. Huge thanks to Garrett and the crew for the countless hours of work before and during the match.

Chas

LW polys are very good with slugs. The 1:17.7 twist is good with up to about a .430" long.

I've tried using this tank several times
Last time my new hatson pistol I just got
First fill. Pow instant 300 in the tank and gun
2 O rings gone.
Quicker that you blink your eye regardless how gently
You feather the valve if that's the way it operates then I will pass
My hatsan and ninja valves work flawless
So I just bought a 3l allsafe tank m18x1.5
74 cu ft I. Going to use the hatsan reg
Works flawless I. An creep the air slow
Just like the ninja and don't need to open and close the valve when filling
Plug it.in plug it in and go.

JimD said:

If your picatinny is in one piece and screwed on it is easy to shim the back of the Pic rail to accomplish the same thing as a 20 MOA mount. I find 5-7 layers of coke can aluminum work well. The material is about 0.1 mm thick. This does not stress the scope at all since the shim just tilts the picatinny rail

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Interesting. Kinda like the old feeler gauge trick. Then the trick becomes not losing them between mountings, and mounting them the exact same way when remounting the scope...

Sent you a PM. I'm not using mine. It only adds a bit over an inch.

853s are singleshot. The 953 is a multishot(5) with auto indexing. I have 2 853s from CMP and a 953 I purchased from a member on another forum. Plus I have a loose 753 upper laying around that has a LW barrel. There is a manual that CMP sells that goes over how to fix/adjust them that I highly recommend. I think it's on one of the sites for free as a pdf, though I believe it's a pirate copy.

Welcome to AGN.

I still can't figure the gauge out. I cannot get it into the battery charge state at all.
I cannot tell if it's charging at all except it's not going dead, so it must be charging
It stays on for like 5 minutes when I touch the screen.

Does any of this sound normal?

for the owners of the Scorpion the gold lettering can be redone with a Gold tire pen you find on Ebay
fill in the Scorpion and let set overnight clean extra with rubbing alcohol if good you are done if not another coat
i use this brand also good for front sights
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2861107832...x94G8mab+dTXi3+UukRLoPaGTP|tkp:Bk9SR8SOkbPmZA

The nearest I can measure on a spare tank seems to be 12mm x 1.0 mm but it's not exact so maybe custom anyone else care to chime in?

EvilHere said:

Nice i will se chrono but i think i need to reduce them a bit for 22 cal in m3 i can remove bottle without removing air right?

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Yes you can. Don’t be afraid to zip it off. Going too slow can make it not seal properly.

Glad we got it sorted out.

Theoben Eli. said:

Time ago boght a major f .25
Its was rubbisch.
It didnt get the vo specs by miles.
Shot 100+m/s below spec with 20.06 gr pellets.
When opening it, full of grease.
Piston seal wash good.
The demension of airchamber where
25-26mm diam. By 100mm stroke.
Way to small to get a .25 pellet around 250ms. To little swept volume

The metal finish is paint not even blueing.
I Removed the barrel for project and dumpped orther in trashcan.

Dont spend money on these junk
Buy better brands like weihrauch -
Air arms

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Thank you very, very much for your sincere reply! I totally believe you.

About a month ago or so I have seen a review done on a .22 caliber KralArms N-11... The story with it went exactly the same as with your MajorF. The gun was under performing and not delivering the advertised velocities by far, but at least the bluing was much closer to some actual, or otherwise proper coating (it certainly wasn't just painted over). The stock was nicely done, even though it was plastic. I guess most these turkish budget airguns (perhaps with the exception of Hatsans) are just like their shotguns, under performing, but cheap. At least they don't blow up like some of their shotguns.

Now, regarding the grease... I kind of understand why they grease these guns so much, it's because they're also sending them across the world by cargo ships and that's why they don't cheap out on stuffing their guns with grease - in order to prevent any possibilities of the guns catching corrosion. When I got my Hatsan mod. 125, the first thing I did was to clean every last bit of grease from the bore of the barrel and the port in the cylinder, and once that was done I got to shooting it and it's accuracy still holds up to this day - it's quite accurate actually for what it is... And boy, was there a lot of grease in the barrel!

Love it!!

I had RLE done on my right eye a few years ago. It made a night and day difference. You're right about it being expensive though and I see halos when it's dark out and I see light in my peripheral vision.

Living on a post card!

Barrel band ordered. Thank you for the info!

@Contndr35BB. Possibly or it was just too clumsy, lol. There was another eagle flying around at the time, perhaps it was trying to grab it first and missed. But it was impressive watching them soaring thru the sky. Thanks for watching.

Non airgun related threads belong under your profile page.

Gerry52 said:

I had to replace mine once in 6 years. Had a a correct size but harder material, used it anyway. No problem. I used emery cloth & super fine steel wool on contact surfaces before put on o-ring with some synthetic lube. (Silicone)

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Hey Gerry52
Thanks for the hint
I ran a very fine Cratex stick around the id where the Oring has to pass.
Then cleaned the fitting and put in a 90 DURO polyurethane Oring
It worked
I filled slowly in 3 steps bleeding the line between each to make sure the plunger sealed
100, 150, 225B
No problems
And it has been holding air for 6 hours

Now I can finally get to sighting in and running some chrony strings
WOO HOO!

Thanks, again. Gerry