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Umarex  New User with New Hammer

Not to beat up on the OP, but getting a consistant answer from 3 sources says something very positive about their CS. Even getting an answer at all from some AG purveyors seems to be a struggle

I don't have any personal Umarex stories, but also don't recall any negative buzz on the forums, so they seem to stand behind their products.

Any yes, they are plastic. But so are a lot of other air guns at that price-point, so wouldn't be too dismissive of the brand in that regard as well.

PCPs are definately flakey compared to PBs. My Evanix bottles spook me every time I fill them...also, I don't need to take a tool box w me when I combust. Yet here I am.
To come boasting about years of experience and yet never hearing about something as ubiquitous as all the project guns utilizing bottles with regulators with fill nipples on them where you had to turn them to line up, come on, you'd have to have been living under a rock, or simply never cared to read about "them" ergo not that much experience huh? Not wasting any more time with this.
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Decibal Test Results, Need Input Please

I like to loop drum solos when I shoot, so anyone that walks by locks onto a repetitive slapping sound to figure it out, has an easy answer to, "what was that".
I use an electric staple gun and hang it on the fence,

Brand new CS4-i won't pump beyond 1800psi

Well, I tried that, and it seems to have worked. Dead headed it to 4500psi TWICE, using the same procedure. However, overall, this compressor pumps way slower than my Hong Yeng. I have them side by side and figured that if either went down, the other would be there... just in case. ;)
Compressor to end of fill whip sounds good, as long as able to reach and hold 4500psi with deadhead plug. Hookup to, and/or, Marauder itself would be my next point of investigation. Filling another gun with CS4, or Marauder with Yong Heng, should help to narrow problem. The low gearing, slow fill of the GX-CS compressors is key to minimizing compressor-killing heat and one of the reasons for selling success. WM
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.177 Pellets for hunting

I did some more testing at range today.

i noticed with paper the Monsters at 880 were accurate enough to hit birds at 50-60 yrds just fine. but on paper there are variations that there are not with the 10.3-10.65 pellets. Is 880 too slow for the monsters? the baracuda match 4.50 at 944.5-947.2 were just one tiny cloverleaf at 40, where as the monsters were a bit wider of a cloverleaf.

RAW Rapid  Changed to an other caliber

Ok thanks,

in your .25 it does 52 ft-lbs that is about 70 joule
In your .30 it does 72 ft-lbs, about 98 joule.

My reg is at 150, so I will try it first without changing the regulator.

As my .25 does 79 joule joule I can assume that in .30 it does about 103 joule. A bit over 100 joule that is more than sufficient.

Most of the .30 Raw schooters use the 44 grain JSB is the 51 grain JSB to heavy or does it perform badly.

Tuning  Thrust bearing

Seems to me if the piston rotated with the spring there would be more spinning mass=torque. The piston is at least the weight of the spring. So in my addled brain the twist would increase.

Yes, the amount of spring torque is dependant on the resistance to it "twisting". So the more torque it takes to turn the spring the more that is transmitted to the gun.

I don't think pointing that out is overthinking it. It is what it is. Even if it's not noticeable in the shot cycle. I'm not suggesting "re inventing the wheel" at all. I'm simply pointing out that no matter what guides or slip washers you use there is still some torque. Probably a lot more than most guys think.

I know I was surprised at how much torque it took to spin the tophat on that slip washer. I had assumed the torque would be minimal. I had pondered that question when rebuilding my break barrels. But the way they go together the friction is not obvious. When I did the 97 the design of the plug allowed me to feel how much torque there was. I was surprised how much.

Even with delrin giblets and plenty of moly the spring is going to fight to unwind. It may make no difference in the shot cycle at all. But then again it might. You would have to re invent the wheel to find out.

I thought since we were discussing friction at the spring/piston interface my observations might spur some discussion. I don't think I am alone in believing the kits eliminated spring torque. I don't think I'm alone being surprised that they don't. At least not to the degree I had visualized.
as you stated. NO MATER WHAT YOU DO

THE SPRING IS GONNA TWIST. ..

The spring is 25% of the total tune in a build. Kit dropping will tame a factory gun but it’s gonna twist. Just more controlled. The back pressure of the piston and the seal as well as port size can control the rate of it spinning or accelerating and rebounding. That’s where magic is made. Drop a kit get 50% of what actually can be done to the gun.
not For power either.
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Let’s see them work benches

Several workbenches/workshops here.

The garage workbench is buried under several projects, cold out there and I'm not showing that mess. 😁

Basement workbench is ready for use, the pile of miscellaneous materials at the right is a slug swaging press in disguise 🥸, it's still in the design stage.

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In spite of the snow and freezing rain, the fly tying bench is in use today, just taking a break for lunch. I'm hoping that tying a bunch of flies will help getting the ice off the lakes sooner.

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Cheers!
Now that’s just plain showin’ off. Wow. Very nice. 👍👍

Daystate  I have a few questions about the Daystate Red Wolf (German (F) version)

I have a few questions about the Daystate Red Wolf

These models of the Daystate Red Wolf are available:

• RW HiLite
• RW HiLite German (F) Version limited to 7.5 joules / 5.53 ft-lb
• RW HiLite HP (HighPower)

… RW Red/Blue/Safari B Type …
… limited Editions …
… RW GP (HP) …

If I understand correctly, the RW HiLite models are from a hardware point of view identical to the RW HiLite German (F) Version and can be programmed up to 33 ft-lb (44.7 J). This depends on the version of the PCB, GC1 or GC2. The new GC2 PCB, a hardened hammer, O-ring vibration compensation, and other components are automatically included in newer RW models? The HP versions have different parameters, as well as other hardware components: FAC Peek Firing Valve, additional components? How far can you effectively shoot with 4.5mm (caliber .177) pellets, and how many joules (or ftps) are needed for that (is a tuned HiLite enough, or does it need to be an HP version, and wouldn’t I also need a longer barrel in a larger caliber)?

Are there any German forum members here who own a Daystate programmer? Who else has a German Red Wolf version? Depending on the pellet in the hi power settings, mine only emits around 5.5 to max. 6 joules…?!

BR Jhoi

Other  Arrow slinger - help me decide

Not going to lie, I dig your style lol! Sounds like a Gatling arrow gun would be a good time, regardless of its use! Unfortunately I already caved and bought the air saber. It’s so cheap at $270 that I will try that for a couple months or so and see where I am at.

I now need to read some posts regarding big bore, formulate a list, and ask you guys which way to go! 😂

The newer Airsaber Elite X2 airbow has two barrels instead of one. It costs about $450 US, compared to the single barrel Airsaber airbow at about $300 US.

I think that having a 2nd arrow immediately available is a big deal in a hunting situation. And the $450 cost of the Airsaber Elite X2 is only 1/4 of the cost of the new 8-shot repeating FX Redback airbow at $1,750. The biggest benefit of the Redback over the Airsaber Elite X2 is that the power on the Redback can be adjusted from 150fpe down to under 20fpe for quieter target practice that is also less likely to damage arrows.

The Redback Standard airbow is relatively large and bulky, and having 8 shots at the ready isn't necessary in most (if any) hunting situations.
But having 2x 160fpe shots available in a traditional rifle configuration like the Airsaber Elite X2, and at a cost of than $500 US, would seem to make it a strong contender in the airbow market.

I prefer compacts to full length airguns these days.

Here's a picture of an Umarex Airsaber with the rear end of the stock professionally removed (with a hacksaw) to make it into an airbow pistol.
It would have fit into an old-fashioned hogleg holster, though probably not a very practical way to carry one though the woods.


JP

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Air Venturi  How to achieve sub-moa groups with the AEA pellets at 98 yards with the Avenge-X .25 cal screen shots and video included

I strongly believe this is the ultimate goal of every airguner who is involved in this hobby, no matter how affordable or expensive could be the airgun we are using to try to achieve this. Well after doing some research I found this very interesting youtube video of this spanish speaking famous airguns reviewer with a Avenge-X classic synthetic stock achieving this with a .25 cal shooting the AEA center punch pellets 35 grains. I took some screenshots from the video along with the tune he was using to achieve this, to shared here for the benefits of all the airgunner who might be interested and don’t have a chronograph.

He was using the following tune, the reg was set @ 175 bar with the hammer spring 3 full turns in (clock wise) from all the way out with the 25 grains and 6 1/2 turns in with the same but heavier AEA 35 grains pellets. He was using a Discovery scope 4/20x50 wirh a DonnyFL Yokozuna moderator and a UGT bipod.

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Taipan  Taipan Veteran 2 Tac Cocking issue

@hitech If you’re filling the tank more than 250 bar, try stopping at 250 and see if it holds air. I had the same problem and it went away after filling to 250 and no more,
Nope, only filling to around 230-240 bar, but thanks for the tip Pfddi. I recieved the gun empty which I thought was odd. I've bought many PCPs over the last 20 years, never once did I get one empty, so I figured it had a slow leak. I think I read one of your posts where this had happened to you (or another Vet owner) and I remembered not to go over 250, so I stopped short.

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