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To come boasting about years of experience and yet never hearing about something as ubiquitous as all the project guns utilizing bottles with regulators with fill nipples on them where you had to turn them to line up, come on, you'd have to have been living under a rock, or simply never cared to read about "them" ergo not that much experience huh? Not wasting any more time with this.Not to beat up on the OP, but getting a consistant answer from 3 sources says something very positive about their CS. Even getting an answer at all from some AG purveyors seems to be a struggle
I don't have any personal Umarex stories, but also don't recall any negative buzz on the forums, so they seem to stand behind their products.
Any yes, they are plastic. But so are a lot of other air guns at that price-point, so wouldn't be too dismissive of the brand in that regard as well.
PCPs are definately flakey compared to PBs. My Evanix bottles spook me every time I fill them...also, I don't need to take a tool box w me when I combust. Yet here I am.
I use an electric staple gun and hang it on the fence,I like to loop drum solos when I shoot, so anyone that walks by locks onto a repetitive slapping sound to figure it out, has an easy answer to, "what was that".
It doesn't, but it's not hard to get to, or hard to tune to your desired speed.I don’t believe they have an external reg?
Compressor to end of fill whip sounds good, as long as able to reach and hold 4500psi with deadhead plug. Hookup to, and/or, Marauder itself would be my next point of investigation. Filling another gun with CS4, or Marauder with Yong Heng, should help to narrow problem. The low gearing, slow fill of the GX-CS compressors is key to minimizing compressor-killing heat and one of the reasons for selling success. WMWell, I tried that, and it seems to have worked. Dead headed it to 4500psi TWICE, using the same procedure. However, overall, this compressor pumps way slower than my Hong Yeng. I have them side by side and figured that if either went down, the other would be there... just in case.![]()
ok great thank you John!Check out the New England Airgunners website…depending on where in CT you live, they’re all within an hour or so..John
Hey Bud, never say this reply. If you look at my profile you will see im very active here. Im happy to send you my info.Yeah, I guess I wouldn't send my address to a stranger on the web either. Thanks anyway.
as you stated. NO MATER WHAT YOU DOSeems to me if the piston rotated with the spring there would be more spinning mass=torque. The piston is at least the weight of the spring. So in my addled brain the twist would increase.
Yes, the amount of spring torque is dependant on the resistance to it "twisting". So the more torque it takes to turn the spring the more that is transmitted to the gun.
I don't think pointing that out is overthinking it. It is what it is. Even if it's not noticeable in the shot cycle. I'm not suggesting "re inventing the wheel" at all. I'm simply pointing out that no matter what guides or slip washers you use there is still some torque. Probably a lot more than most guys think.
I know I was surprised at how much torque it took to spin the tophat on that slip washer. I had assumed the torque would be minimal. I had pondered that question when rebuilding my break barrels. But the way they go together the friction is not obvious. When I did the 97 the design of the plug allowed me to feel how much torque there was. I was surprised how much.
Even with delrin giblets and plenty of moly the spring is going to fight to unwind. It may make no difference in the shot cycle at all. But then again it might. You would have to re invent the wheel to find out.
I thought since we were discussing friction at the spring/piston interface my observations might spur some discussion. I don't think I am alone in believing the kits eliminated spring torque. I don't think I'm alone being surprised that they don't. At least not to the degree I had visualized.
Now that’s just plain showin’ off. Wow. Very nice.Several workbenches/workshops here.
The garage workbench is buried under several projects, cold out there and I'm not showing that mess.
Basement workbench is ready for use, the pile of miscellaneous materials at the right is a slug swaging press in disguise, it's still in the design stage.
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In spite of the snow and freezing rain, the fly tying bench is in use today, just taking a break for lunch. I'm hoping that tying a bunch of flies will help getting the ice off the lakes sooner.
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Cheers!
Not going to lie, I dig your style lol! Sounds like a Gatling arrow gun would be a good time, regardless of its use! Unfortunately I already caved and bought the air saber. It’s so cheap at $270 that I will try that for a couple months or so and see where I am at.
I now need to read some posts regarding big bore, formulate a list, and ask you guys which way to go!![]()
Nope, only filling to around 230-240 bar, but thanks for the tip Pfddi. I recieved the gun empty which I thought was odd. I've bought many PCPs over the last 20 years, never once did I get one empty, so I figured it had a slow leak. I think I read one of your posts where this had happened to you (or another Vet owner) and I remembered not to go over 250, so I stopped short.@hitech If you’re filling the tank more than 250 bar, try stopping at 250 and see if it holds air. I had the same problem and it went away after filling to 250 and no more,