harrympope said:

ill give you $120. Who turns down a 20% profit margin!

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I bought ('cause it was soo cheap) the model shown above. I have compared this to an ancient CE pro chrono, a very tired Chrony "master beta" (!!) and, when I get ambitious, a Lab Radar.

Between 500fps (I shoot Olympic) and 950fps, all are within 7fps of each other. This utterly amazed me (have you $een what Lab Radar co$t$?).

The chrony is very problematic with natural lighting and really works best with a light kit. The Pro Chrono is very good, but the light kit runs on AC so you may need to build a battery powered source or use a power bank/inverter. It's OK outdoors w/o lighting kit. The Aliexpress has the worst Chinglish effort at instructions. Just punch buttons until you either beat it to pieces or figure it out. But the stupid thing works, and the lighting is battery powered.

I am a bit embarrassed to admit the above, but if it saves someone some money....

Frank in Fairfield said:

Now, get up and shoot offhand.
Anyone can shoot from the bench..

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Shot this target off hand awhile back. I like to shoot off hand from time to time. I’m not very good at it but it’s fun. Hard to cut cards off hand though. Also I think it’s good for an inexperienced person, like my daughter in law to get comfortable and shoot a few bullseyes before worrying about off hand shooting.

Sleestak said:

450 BAR is insane & must really get the job done!!!

Yeah, I think w the trend towards higher & higher operating pressures that the Alkin would be a good investment for anyone serious about the activity. Not just for big bore either

That Alkin looks seriously beefy compared to the mini that the Alteros is...definately a once in a lifetime investment.

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Ya my AirForce Texan may have a couple of small mods… lol.
I got sucked into the idea of finding and extending the rifles limits in distance shooting. I’ve taken jack rabbits as far out as 440 yards and can hit a man sized target out to 600… even in mild to medium winds gusting up to 15mph. I’ve definitely been having a lot of fun learning the rifles capabilities and seriously pushing its limits. And when I say it has a couple of small mods, that’s a huge lie as there’s almost nothing on this rifle that’s not been loved on, from custome porting hand casting slugs… it’s only time and money being flushed.

You just need to shoot at said distances to see if your tune of 830fps holds POI, if not, slowly add fps till it does.

Airgun Alley’s take on it. He uses the arrows and .50 balls as well.

Cran said:

So, i srudied both of the tuning vids above, lookin at 230 in the bottle, raised the second reg to 130, degassed it again per instructions, put the bottle bak on with 190 bar in the bottle, raised the first reg to 165 (30-40 power diff between em). Power wheel bak to sevn… results terrible, less range, less “smack”. I did somethin wrong im sure but… anybody?

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“DONT PANIC!” . . figgered it out! Cant figure out why 130 in the second rig, isnt usin more air thanit was at 120. Even rolled the hammer adjust in power wheel quarter turn ccw after. Shoots fine, just can shoot more mags. Do you pro’s all take extra air and fill as need? I have to take one bottle “load“ of mags and come back to the barnfor more air and reload. Dont wanna shoot it under reg press. . . Again. Thanks men

All depends on your ability to hit the target and ability of the rifle, does it put out enough energy.

At 100 yards my Vulcan 3 at these settings still carry over 90 ft lbs of energy @ 100 yards, and I can hit targets at 150+ accurately . To take a coyote humanely at least 50 ft lbs of energy is recommended so I'd be comfortable at taking a yote at 150 yds, a rabbit much further.

Yup there are no rules in the AAFTA handbook that talk about lane spacing. As you know, over the years, there has been everything from simple signs that are inverted V-shaped metal ones, to a stake in the ground. The problem without defining the shooting area/line, is that you have the liberty to move around. Rock in your way, move over. Pebble under your butt, move over. Grass in the way, move over. Another thing is safety. slide back a little and that could put others at risk.
Best practice is defined left and right vertical markers. Without ambiguity, there is no room for bending rules. At our range, I have occasionally made lanes up to 6' wide to work around obstacles such as cactus. But no less than 3' wide.

Here are some comments about my thoughts on lane markers...
The Best Height is ~30"+ tall. This allows clear visibility to place lane and positional signs. You don't want your positional indicators to be hidden. Lane signs with this height also allow your spools to be hung from them so they're not in the dirt or mud.
There is a company I found called Formufit.com , they sell colored pipes. They are a bit pricy, but we used them for the Worlds, and I absolutely love their quality and rich color. We ordered the 60" lengths and cut them in two. We slid them over 2' lengths of 3/8" rebar hammered into the ground. As for the signs, I recommend printing on 8.5 x 11 cardstock cut in half, and using a 6x9" 5 mil laminate pouch. The smaller size is rigid enough to handle a bit of wind and is easier to handle. Not too big, not too small. (Message me if you want the USA-size template I used for Worlds.) Then these are clamped to the pipe using 1" clips screwed to the pipes to secure the top and bottom of the sign marker. This setup will last for years and is top notch.

zerochance said:

Sounds like a big investment too. I can't justify modifying a gun more than it's worth. And for clarification, when I say modifying I mean more than adding attachments. Just my opinion... lol.

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Yes, modding a gun way beyond what it’s worth was very popular when we bought guns that were so far from their potential. Now it’s evolved into bolt on do-dads that pretty much do the same. It’s cool that there are still guns being produced that let a guy set money on fire but there is satisfaction in the results. It’s very educational and rewarding versus just bolting on crap. Back in 2017 I built a P15. When I was done I had exceeded what I paid for my Taipan. I still have the gun. If someone would shoot it, they would pay a lot more for it than what I could sell it for in the classifieds. But that’s not how it works so I’ll keep it.

I went through the Prod phase also. Reinvented the gun several times then eventually sold it for probably a substantial loss. No biggie. Someone got a cool gun.

sigma_rogue said:

I really like your set up great pics

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Thanks, message me if you want some parts for your mordax.

If you want to fill a 3l tank get a gx cs4. Same money and will do that much easier than the rovair

looks like mid-April got a message on my phone yesterday that seems to be the delivery date across the board.

Spitzer slugs ??? Anyone?anyone? big game getter or not necessary? I like em out to 150 yards for deer one hell of a shot anybody run into this scenario?

Know what you mean, Shroom!
Going on 7 years since my first taste of sweet Taipan nectar.
Down to 'just' three shorties - two in .22 and one in .25 and they're not going anywhere!
Here's a post from 2018 when I received my 1st Vet.

Dstrac said:

Just sighting in my new bintac s45 in 357. 13 inch barrel. It's making around 175 ft lbs. This rifle kicks hard it's a blast to shoot. I upgraded to a 580cc carbon fiber front tank. View attachment 549097View attachment 549096

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186 ft lbs with 125 grain texoma precision slugs. 819 fps

Wonderful shooting with a great PCP!

Kwit there is nothing wrong with your ambition to modify airguns. Here’s a few tips to help you along your journey:

1) First and foremost, ALWAYS release all the air from any PCP gun you’re working on. Whether it’s just removing the barrel or modifying the valve.

2) Since you have a tinkering mentality I would suggest disassembling your first PCP gun so you better understand how everything works. You may damage an o-ring in the process but this should not discourage you. It will teach you how to find leaks and change o-rings.

3) A great gun to learn about airguns is the Crosman 2240. It’s a co2 pistol, not pcp, but it is very similar to how a PCP gun functions. It can be modified for more power, shot count, made into a rifle, and even converted into a PCP. It’s cheap ($60), has many aftermarket parts available, and it will teach you the fundamentals. It’s how I learned.

4) As you get older make sure to do plenty of exercise to combat the decreasing testosterone. Unfortunately many men don’t do this and it shows. It will allow to be strong enough to cock a springer into your older years.


Good luck buddy!

SpiralGroove said:

Yes, but I would be very careful messing with the Transfer Port .
Unless you really understand what you‘re doing …. too big and the gun is ruined, unless you spend a great deal of time fixing. 99% of folks should leave it alone.

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100% agree and rarely needed unless youre playing with older springers with a low SCR, but.....it is a thing, so made it in at stage 3

Modified the Ruger impact max would you say this counts as a pistol now? Any feedback or suggestions?

beerthief said:

lead free pellets are a harder material than lead of alloy .

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the H&N lead-free pellets i use fold-up (mushroom) better than the lead variations i use in my flashpup .177

So this is my first airgun of any kind, coming from a couple years of skeet and rifle shooting.

Bought a new Umarex Emerge in .177 for plinking at the local range... and could not get it zeroed.

After a couple weekends, some searching, and education on airguns, I realized that there's some kind of leak. Pellets are dropping now (after initially having some decent power)
I've since figured out that it's missing at least one o-ring (Umarex customer service ticket has been started)

This would explain the random o-ring and (maybe) what looks like a spring clip on the floor in the shop... but I don't see how this one fits in either the breech or the piston port-thing.

Searching on "Umarex Emerge o-rings" yields results for other model o-rings, but it seems like this Emerge is a ghost.
This is the 12 shot magazine model... and the owners manual casually mentions the o-rings at the breech and piston (basically on each side of the magazine) but DOESN'T SAY WHAT SIZE THEY ARE.

So looking for help on o-ring size for this thing, and any other documents beyond the regular owners manual.

The found o-ring, clip, and breech/pitson ports are shown for clarity. The o-ring seems too big for the breech (OD too big) and the clip doesn't seem appropriate for that part. In the piston port, the r-ring and clip are a bit small.

Thanks

Dstrac said:

That thing is a hammer! Nice power and accuracy. What barrel length? I'm not sure how the mags fit on the megladon? A little trick I do with all my AEA mags especially the semi autos is a layer of clear gorilla tape on the back face of the mags, then trim off the extra with an exacto knife. Wipe with alcohol or lacquer thinner first to clean the surface. I do one or 2 layers depending on how snug I want it. Same for the folding stock if applicable, 1 layer makes that fit without rattle.

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Definitely! It's the 22inch barrel. There's a 15" as well. I appreciate the tips on the mags! I have noticed that on some. luckily this ones pretty snug.

Got the M4 all dressed up. and the sidewinder is the new night stalker.

Arkansas_Airgunner said:

I can attest to the length increase on the .457 Texan as I also have an extenson with the Emporer. This rifle is SUPER long. Almost reach out and just poke the target insted of shooting it.

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LOL not a bullpup for sure! Even with the airforce lss setup it's still like pointing a javelin I have gotten used to shooting it from my trigger stick, but no go for real brushy Dence cover.