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AEA  Just so ya know...

I have a Element Max in 58 I bought from a fellow member here and when I received it-it was holding air but when I tried filling it I couldn't get the probe out and had to release all the air called the guy he said it had been in his closet for a year so the oring had stuck I cleaned the residue off the seat area and called Bin and he sent me the parts to repair it with a couple extra orings, Bins a great guy. It's holding air and a Beast shooting 440gr HPs around 784fps.
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UTG 3-12X44 compact scope... pretty impressive

I don't know if I'm going crazy or not, but the ONLY complaint I have with the 3-12x is the slightly thick mildot reticle.
Sooo, Amazon had a sale on returned OP3 versions of the compact with moa turrets/reticle and I bought a 3-12x and a 4-16x. These have fine reticles and even at 16x clear as all get out, really impressive. I constantly surprised how bright and clear they are. I have a Hawke Frontier 3-15x and it's a super scope, but I really prefer the UTG, better eye box, easier to see markings on reticle, ie 10, 20 moa etc.
These scopes upped the game on mid line scopes. They're as good or better than Vector Veyron.

FX  Fx wildcat power well

FX Wildcat MK3 power adjustment wheel moves a lot. Does anyone know how to prevent accidental movement?
This Youtube channel episode (Shooting with Phil) shows his micrometer replacement for the crappy FX power wheel:

There is a link in the description that is an ebay link for international orders. That link will take you to an ebay page that is selling both the micrometer and a replacement for the 2nd regulator screw, but you don't need the regulator replacement screw, so here is the ebay link to just the micrometer for the wildcat mk3.

I hope the ebay link works. I know it's expensive, but it's the best replacement for the power wheel if it's within your budget.

stovepipe

Karma  Karma eq .25 cal

Well, tell you the truth I didn’t fill it up all the way I only filled it up to 4000 psi and I believe I got about 62 maybe 63 I was shooting pallets and then slugs so I kinda lost count, but it was quite a bit Unfortunately when I was trying to fill it up, my compressor broke, and I’m waiting for a part from vevor
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FX  FX Impact M2, M3, M4 POI shift when installing moderator

I'd second that BuckRail unit. I have a modular one and it is as good as my DFL Tanto in terms of noise reduction. They're 3D printed and very light. You can adjust the length by removing baffles (and thus weight) at the expense of suppression (it will get louder as you remove baffles). They're also pretty inexpensive.

Umarex  Zelos Question

Ok thanks LR_Plinker. Yep I drilled the plenum out , and tapped it to install guage there it never would stop leaking , so I decided to have a mig welder guy weld the hole shut which messed up the temper of the aluminum , and that was it ruined it.
Little pin hole air leaks kept popping up all over. Too dangerous to fill did not want to send a fragment through my eye. I just wish There were nice aftermarket receivers to buy in stainless lol.
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Attempting to rescue a bad barrel - the SPA M25 in .35 cal

Well, it has been a lovely long weekend with a good blend of family and shop time.

I'll open by saying I did not follow my original plan of trying a plain MDS nylon hammer. But I'll get back to that in a moment. First I'd like to touch on the barrel porting. The factory porting consists of a groove with 2 drilled holes:
01 barrel port - original.jpg


Since the barrel threads into the receiver, this arrangement is good for manufacturability because the factory does not have to be concerned with where the ports end up in relation to the valve's exhaust. In my particular case, the two ports unfortunately ended up at 3 and 9 o'clock, maximizing the distance and sharp turns the air must take to reach the pellet. So I drilled a 3rd hole in line with the valve and tried running it like that for a few days, but I knew the better approach would be to fill the groove with epoxy and mill a single large-ish port in line with the valve's exhaust:
02 barrel port - new.jpg


Without touching the hammer spring tension, this change yielded a 6% increase (110fpe -> 117fpe), in spite of the fact the new single port is smaller than the combined area of the 3 round ports.

Now back to the lightweight hammer and PEEK poppet. So why did I decide against trying a 100% plastic hammer? Well, I removed the OEM hammer and put it on the scale:
03 hammer - original 107g.jpg

Yikes. No way going from a Delrin poppet to PEEK is going to make it that easy to knock open. So I decided to just go ahead and make a 2-piece hammer with a steel core and MDS nylon body, and target a weight somewhere in the ballpark of a third of the original.

And, oh look, an offcut from a .177 Crosman barrel weighs about 24 grams:
04 metal core 23g.jpg


Drilling and turning the nylon body:
05 hammer in lathe 1.jpg


The finished 2-piece hammer weighs 33.6 grams, or about 31% of the OEM hammer:
06 hammer - new 33g.jpg


Then I turned a new poppet and selected a weaker valve spring (bottom) to replace the originals (top):
07 poppet.jpg


Then I reassembled and tried test firing it with no changes to the hammer spring preload. The new velocity?

0 fps. Haha, it barely blipped the valve, the pellet didn't move, and I could hear just a tiny psssssssshhh of air bleed out of the breech over the course of a few seconds. Okay I'm going to need some more hammer spring so I rummaged through my Cool Whip container of springs. Every spring even remotely close to the right gauge and diameter was too short, but I'm too impatient to wait to get some springs in so I picked out a couple and turned a little plastic coupler to join them end to end:
08 spring coupler.jpg


Reassembled into the SSG:
09 spring coupler in SSG.jpg


Ah, there we go:
10 velocity.jpg

258mps (846fps) with an 82.2gr pellet for 130.6fpe. That's up on the velocity plateau so I need to back it off a little, but even with it wasting air, the muzzle report is already noticeably less boomy so I'm happy with how it's going.

Hunt Ground mapping through Sight App

Just started using the Hunt Ground feature in the HIKMICRO Sight app and I’m actually pretty impressed.

Dropped a few pins over the weekend to mark tracks, trails, and a fresh wallow—now I’ve got my own little hunting map building up. So much easier coming back to a spot when you’ve got everything logged.

If you haven’t played with it yet, definitely give it a crack. Handy tool for anyone who’s keen to track patterns and get more out of your time out bush.

Let me know if you’re using it too—keen to see how others are setting theirs up.
IMG_2092.jpeg
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Tuning  Jumping to conclusions. When knowledge, resources and ability are a curse.

For me the frustrating two things with pcp's is screws coming loose over time and a scope that had shifting problems which also got progressively worse as time went by. Apparently pcp's have more vibrations than I ever thought they would.

The other frustrations were silly ways some aspects of a gun which were designed funky to begin with. I can't really judge because I'm not a engineer but at the same time I always think to my self that a problem will arise from that design and sure enough it happens sooner than later.

Brocock/BRK  BRK Ghost Slug gun

@woogie_man Have you had a chance to shoot any 100 yard groups?
Sadly I haven't. I went out to the range to do some testing ......... and I forgot the ammo at home lol

Drove 45 minutes to the private range only to forget my ammo. I am on call this week, and my son has state trap this weekend. If I am able I will sneak away and try and get some shooting done. But I was able to get some of the 27 grain slugs to shoot really well at 30 and 50 yards. So I am hoping the ones that I made will work just as good. If I remember correctly they were the H&N slugs shooting at 910 fps. Was getting a ragged hole at both ranges.

Altaros Dominance at Oregon Extreme Airgun Competition

We need to order a whole pallet of them.

In my case the only slugs that give more precision are the custom swaged slugs I make for my Thomas HPX(when its tuned correctly) but the G1 BC is .142 so they blow in the wind more as distance increases and at some point the Altaros stay on steel better. The .245 G1 BC of the 25 cal Queens does amazingly well way out there. Also when it's windy they stay on steel better than my 22rf. 22rf has a .16 G1 BC and that's much of the reason.

Altaros has most definitely made a massively huge contribution to the airgun community and I'm very thankful!
Exactly... And for some reason at Oregon, I was getting 0.270 G1 with the .25 @Altaros 60 grain Queens... When we shot the 100Y BR Slug it was almost too easy, even with swirling winds 8 to 15 mph. I know it was that high since my first couple of shots at 250 and 300 yards on the Long-Range Challenge, the slug hit high in the white above the red (my dope called for 0.245 G1)... I was in contention, but my Skout Evo broke with 8 shots remaining. (the cocking handle pin that moves the cocking plate attached to the pellet probe came loose and dropped into the lower part of the gun.) Easy fix, but not while on the line... :(:mad:

Hatsan piledriver knocklever installation?

I always dump as much praise as I can about this forum. Some of the senior members are absolutely hands down the most knowledgeable and helpful people when it comes to guidance. They will ask you the questions that you don't know to ask yourself so that they can give you the most informed opinions. Any way welcome and always lean on the forum for your air gun problems. Have a good day. Agnutty

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