BlackICE said:

I never took mine apart but from this photo I assumed that the motor was enclosed in its on case with just a the shaft and pinon gear sticking out through a bearing. So for grease to get into the motor it would have to pass through the front shaft bearing. But you seem to imply that the motor isn't covered 100% on the front side and the internal are exposed behind the pinion gear. In that case I can see why thick sticky grease was used. If the pinon gear can be removed and a thin plastic shield add to "seal" the motor's internals then thinner grease or, even thick gear oil, may be better.

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Maybe. The motor/gear interface might be completely different too. My pics are of an L2. I'm not sure of exactly what's going on with all the parts in yours.

The wood grain is nature's art work. Really lovely stock KWK.

eeler1 said:

Nobody likes the Hawke Airmax Compacts? I have other Hawke scopes, not the compacts though, and very happy with them for HFT or hunting. Frankly, I'm a bit surprised nobody else has mentioned the compacts. Price maybe?

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I have one in 4-16x. Its an OK scope, but I dont love it. The eyebox its small and the reticle sometimes is not in focus. I much prefer my veyron in reticle clarity. And its cheaper.

Florida_Man said:

I can be a wrecking ball

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You just said what I was thinking!

Hello anyone know any good specific places to hunt iguanas in Estero/Tampa area. I did call the police they said I do not need to guide I just need to call them when I go I will give them my license plate number make and model of car. I called Florida game and fish received this document on where not to hunt. In the past I did use a guide but that was in a different area basically he knew where to go we just went down to certain canals etc.

View attachment STATE OF FLORIDA FLORIDA FISH AND WILDLIFE CONSERVATION COMMISSION.pdf

I have taken so far 550 shots, mix of suitable pellets and slugs. I am still into testing, measuring speeds at the various power settings for my favourite pellets/slugs. I have always payed attention to have the proper pressure for the pellet, usually I shoot from 280 bar down to 150-170 bar, depending on the weight of the pellet/slug. Never did speed shooting. Trigger also adjusted, so I have a defined two stage, not too light. I was shooting last week JSB/Exact Jumbo Heavy/Pellet 18.13 grain, JSB/Exact Jumbo/Pellet 15.89 grain @ 1.25 power setting. 19 shoots each to measure the pressure consumption. I refilled again to 280 bar between strings. As I am doing statistics with all my shooting from the beginning, I overved that with the same power setting I am getting in the mean time more speed. At first tought I had not set the power screw correctly, so I repeated the shots with the same setting. For example, for the JSB 18.13 grain with 1.25 power I had last year at the beginning 217 m/s, now 550 shots later I am getting 228 m/s. Any body out there similar observations? Would be interesting to read from you.

Now to my problem. After refilling to 280 bar I was shooting JSB/Exact Jumbo Monster Redesign/Pellet 25.39 grain @ 1.5 power, which I had done before several times. After two shots, the gun start slowly to loose all pressure. This is what I observed and what I did:

Safety was not engaging, magazine could be turned manually in the correct direction, even when locked. The magazine release arm moved back and forth without resistance. I set the power screw back to zero (fully clockwise in) and removed the magazine plastic side cover to empty the pellets. I had 19 pellets loaded and recovered 17, so barrel was clear. Then I put back on the side cover. After opening the back plate I could remove the striker buffer spring. The blue striker buffer could be pushed in until an audible click. Then the safety was working again. Striker buffer I have taken out gently with an allen key, then I could push the spring through the buffer about half way. Then it was possible to re-assemble. During refilling, at approx. 100 bar the magazine indexing "kicked in" (sounded like rattling). Then I filled to 180 bar and dry fired 3x. Pressure still at 180 bar. I know that the striker buffer spring and the striker buffer are in the spare parts set, but the existing parts looked good so I used them again. The only thing I did not do was to put grease back on to the spring, because I had the impression that there was enough inside.

So my question is, why did this happen. I always shoot according to the manual and the good advices from this forum and other experts, like Luchtbuks. Will this happen with GK1 V3 on a regular basis? Is there anything I could do to improve the situation and avoid that this happens again? In the mean time I am back into shooting and the gun performs as it should be. Just wanted to share my experience.

I head posted this already under the PCP Airgun section by mistake. So I am reposting this here again.

The cap on my Cricket 1st generation was epoxied on the shroud . I you want to remove it you shoud heat the shroud with a heat gun and make the cap turning at the same time , with a good pliers . I did it on mine , turned another cap with the end threaded 1/2 UNF , with a very thight it and press it with epoxy in the shroud .

Jringe1109 said:

What is your regulator setting? Shouldn’t you be getting 3-4 full mags at that power level? Sounds like you’re wasting air maybe.

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He said 4500 psi though not 5000psi

If you find no leaks the probable cause is the high pressure piston rings are not sealing and need to be replaced. They are made of a pliable plastic resin infused with some type of metallic powder. Buy Tuxing rings only as other brand replacement rings won't seal. Be careful when reattaching the metal air lines as they will leak if you cross thread them onto the cylinder head. Are you seeing any black oil residue when you purge the gold air filter? Sludge will burn onto the high pressure piston's reed/check valve. If it doesn't seal properly the compressor cannot produce full pressure.

I recently picked up a rare Falcon Ultishot 9mm shotgun and thought I’d share a pic. I haven’t had a chance to really work with it but I loaded up a modified Crosman 1100 shell for it and it worked quite well. I’ll have to get some proper diameter round balls and try it out as a big bore! The bore is smooth, I don’t know if it’s choked or not.

As Scandinavian I have used metric system my whole life and I also have been working on a garage for almost a decade.

O-rings are categorized by inside diameter x thickness of the rubber, which in this case would most likely be 3,5x1,5.
I believe the cross section means thickness.
Otherwise you would have a funny looking O-ring with a miniscule 1,5mm hole and a 3,5mm thick rubber around it.

And yes, they are firstly sold by inside diameter. So just to make sure, the overall diameter of this O-ring would be 3,5mm + 1,5mm + 1,5mm = 6,5mm but no one uses that measurement. This was just for reference.

For what it's worth, I understand very little about inches and feet.

I had an S510, they are a joy to shoot. The action is buttery smooth, and the bluing is as deep as can be. The only reason I got rid of it is the length, I tend to enjoy bullpups. I’ve owned two FX guns, the POI shifts from the soda straw liners is a big deal. They shoot great, they are just too fragile. Maybe this new gun won’t have that problem. I’d still go with the AA though.

bred904 said:

Ranger XR looks really nice kind of a low shot count can you put a bigger bottle on it?

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I'm not sure if you can get a bigger bottle or not on the ranger xr. I'm sure that a call to a company that sells them will give you the answer. With smaller guns you will have lower shot count. Another idea is the ED GUN leshy 2. but it's spendy. How will you be filling your new to you rifle?

Ezana4CE said:

@pesty3782 When all else fails try just starting to push and hold down buttons one by one, in your down time of course. If I can’t remember what something does on my thermal or NV device I practice pushing buttons in the dark on non-target species. I have a lot of footage and photos of non target species. It also may help to bring a power bank and cord for field charging. Is the Athlon thermal scope battery internally integrated or removable?

I opted for one of these (this isn’t a recommendation. I don’t have enough experience with it to recommend it).

https://a.co/d/0fv78g1

I used to have a cheap Walmart bank that I sold.

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The battery is removable....If I owned a Thermal I would really look at the Athlon for sure. Very nice set up.

Tony P.

tear it apart and find an oring that fits the groove around the silver cylinder portion.

oring variety packs are cheap at harbor freight

much of this hobby is watching prices and understand the best you can what is good and overpriced
but i have been doing that for 15+ years and the reality is old gun can be worth far more as time goes on
go to Gun Broker and Ebay and looked at what is for sale and what has been sold in complete on Ebay
it tells you what people will pay, what it is worth is not important
i have had a bad habit over the years and that is buying for average
pay too much, find a steal and one for a very good price, the last two make the paid too much okay but it is how you end up with 100 air guns LOL

Hi Joe,
I think adding 1.5 liter, 3 liter, and 30 minute sizes would round out your calculator nicely.

I like how the wood rides a bench compared to the synthetic.

I love my red wolf i bought it used and man you can't beat the trigger in them and they are very accurate

https://www.augustindustries.com/ Give them a call and tell them what you want, and they will take care of you. They are not cheap, but you can buy piece by piece. Ver reliable.

very awesome! im looking to do this with my kiddos as well when i get my first airgun

Its a common issue with the Notos. They are shipped empty, the airtube loosens up slightly and either the o-ring blows out or it leaks.

I bought good quality aftermarket o-rings for customer guns to remedy this. A good quality o-ring silicone lube helps seat them correctly.

so i have many Daisy 7-7 pistols and rebuild all of them with great success they are easy to work on and for the most part a straightforward rebuild
i had one that was hard to get the large valve Oring to seal but solved that
i have one now that i was using as a test mule for a rear sight workup and as i have finished that project wanted to set in aside
i had replaced the piston head and valve large Orings and the pistol would shoot fine but as i test i found that it was leaking over time
apart it came and replaced both large Orings again and found that was not going to help
pulled the valve apart and the larger Oring was in bad shape and it is a 012 and put a 006 on the stem
the stem Oring is either a 005 or 006 both have the same CS
slammed the pistol back together and cocked pumped and fired sounded okay but the handle was out of adjustment that done my testing continued
cock and pump and dry fire sound okay but the valve has air left and that is impossible because the valve has been pulled open
cock, pump leave over night well it is not leaking but it is firing weak and you can cock it and fire again and even one more time
i shim the valve stem no difference
pulled it apart and see no problems

so, here is the question valve is clear no obstructions valve is not leaking but valve is not dumping all the air why is that

all i am going to change when i get them is the 006 Oring for a 005 and if that doesn't work i guess i will have a parts guns

Well i shot the Monstrum Challenger on my big .510 Texan...It made 3 shots at 50 yards...I moved the turrets and it wont hold point of impact at all..Ooh well going back to Monstrum tommorrow... I think when i get my refund ill buy another Vector or a LH4 Arken...