2289 internals

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

Been tossing around the idea of upgrading the internal parts of the 2289. Mainly the flat man pack from alliancehobby.com has caught my eye. And it's got brass optionsmy 2289 shoots fine. Just wondering how much improvement I could get...done lots of research but I've heard from no real person on their experiences after modding the 2289.

The only things I've done so far:
Steel breech kit
Extended bolt probe[used bolt handle from steel breech bolt bc i liked it better]
Buck-rail.com can on end

Let me know what you have all done and how it changed performance. I would live to find a way to pump it LESS and get more OOMPH out of it. But my research indicates if I were to do so, other un-upgraded parts could get damaged?...advise,comments, pictures, etc

 

[Dr. Kralenstein]

Depending on barrel length, it can add a good 100 fps with a bunch of pumps.

It will still give good gains even with the stock 14.5" or 12" barrel, depending on which model you have

 

[nervoustrig]

What boostcreep said, and you will get more power with fewer pump strokes which is always nice...knocks the edge off the drudgery of clack-clacking for each shot.

 

[Simplemann]

I've owned one for about 2 months and have 1k pellets through it. I have thought about upgrades also but decided that I would shoot 2k pellets to get the "what it can do stock" experience. I do plan on the steel breach as the first mod then see what happens from there. I'm not a hunter so I'm not all that concerned with increasing power. I'm more leaning towards the trigger/sight mod/upgrade. I plan experimenting with the trigger; lighter spring, 22 casing and some polishing of appropriate parts. I figure that costs almost nothing just some time. I'm also thinking a Williams peep sight. I do want to completely disassemble and do some cleaning/polishing of the internals and then see what the chronograph shows.

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

Depending on barrel length, it can add a good 100 fps with a bunch of pumps.

It will still give good gains even with the stock 14.5" or 12" barrel, depending on which model you have

Running the drifter barrel[14.5] another 100 fps would be real nice

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

What boostcreep said, and you will get more power with fewer pump strokes which is always nice...knocks the edge off the drudgery of clack-clacking for each shot.

I've read some after upgrading needing to be pumped like 20 or more times?is that true? Or is 10 pumps a standard measurement for pumps? [I've always gone with manufacturer guidelines and just started tinkering; so any and all advise/words are welcome as I am learning more and more

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

I've owned one for about 2 months and have 1k pellets through it. I have thought about upgrades also but decided that I would shoot 2k pellets to get the "what it can do stock" experience. I do plan on the steel breach as the first mod then see what happens from there. I'm not a hunter so I'm not all that concerned with increasing power. I'm more leaning towards the trigger/sight mod/upgrade. I plan experimenting with the trigger; lighter spring, 22 casing and some polishing of appropriate parts. I figure that costs almost nothing just some time. I'm also thinking a Williams peep sight. I do what to completely disassemble and do some cleaning/polishing of the internals and then see what the chronograph shows.

Im nee to the tinkering side of airguns. So I'm starting slow lol seen TONS of mods for this platform sooo....takin g her slow. Probably 2k through her. Pumps not so noisy now. Finally getting it really broken in having the can on it and making it quiet enough for all hours of day outside heregot a pile of pellets under the tree and some more goodies I hope

 

[Dr. Kralenstein]

Running the drifter barrel[14.5] another 100 fps would be real nice

I've had 1322s with 14.5 barrel(same rig) and the flat top kit with .160 ports and a heavy spring, like .038-.042 wire, and could hit low 700s with 30 pumps. 20 pumps was good for around 630s. Go to a 24 inch barrel it would be in the low 800s with 14.3 pellets.

Upgrade the pivot pin and add some washers on the inside of the linkage to stiffen it all up. Makes pumping easier and less stress on the parts. A metal front barrel band would really make it nice. There was also a company that made a "missing link" end cap for those that mated the breech and tube together with one solid end cap. Dunno if those are around anymore.

 

[nervoustrig]

I've read some after upgrading needing to be pumped like 20 or more times?is that true?

No, not unless you also do something like swap the valve for one with larger internal volume. Otherwise a flat-top piston and valve simply improve your pumping efficacy...stuffing more air into the valve per pump. What that does is give you more power for the same number of pumps. Or you have the option to pump more times to get higher power than you could before.

For example, here's the difference when I modified my 2289.

Note these figures are not for a flat-top piston and valve, but from stiffening the piston and shimming the pump cup to achieve something similar on the cheap as described in the following PDF.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

A FTP conversion (properly adjusted) will do better still.

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

Great info!! Yes I want it to still be a 10 pump-pumper.
So I just need the flat top valve/ piston and port? Or do I need all that stuff in the pic from beginning? I'm keeping the barrel 14.5[it's the perfect size for my current maneuverability limitations.] <just looking to squeeze outmoded powerful shot with equal10 pumps>sorry I sound like a broken record but 10 pumps...more power

 

[nervoustrig]

Sorry, I'm not familiar enough with all the Alliance Hobby part/kit combinations to unequivocally answer whether you need "all that stuff in the pic from beginning."

However the key components to reaching your goal are the flat-top piston and valve. The transfer port, presuming it is larger than the OEM, should benefit you some as well since this is a .22 cal. I recall there being a slight velocity loss in the 1377 platform from using a larger transfer port.

 

[Simplemann]

No, not unless you also do something like swap the valve for one with larger internal volume. Otherwise a flat-top piston and valve simply improve your pumping efficacy...stuffing more air into the valve per pump. What that does is give you more power for the same number of pumps. Or you have the option to pump more times to get higher power than you could before.

For example, here's the difference when I modified my 2289.
View attachment 315509

Note these figures are not for a flat-top piston and valve, but from stiffening the piston and shimming the pump cup to achieve something similar on the cheap as described in the following PDF.

Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

A FTP conversion (properly adjusted) will do better still.

Great information! Well documented JFYI this is want I got on my all stock 2289 using Crosman HP 14.3: (5 pumps 398 fps 5.03 fpe) (10 pumps 501 fps 7.97 fpe) and just for curiosity I pumped it 12 times and 522fps with 8.65 fpe.

 

[nervoustrig]

JFYI this is want I got on my all stock 2289 using Crosman HP 14.3: (5 pumps 398 fps 5.03 fpe) (10 pumps 501 fps 7.97 fpe) and just for curiosity I pumped it 12 times and 522fps with 8.65 fpe.

Okay thanks, yeah that raises a good point. So your stock figures lie somewhere in between my stock vs. modified figures. I'm not surprised because very small variations in head space (gap between the pump cup and valve when the pump arm is closed) have a significant influence over how well air gets stuffed into the valve on each pump stroke, and ultimately the final valve pressure achieved after X pump strokes. Meaning small differences in manufacturing tolerances can easily explain the discrepancy.

The goal with the flat top parts is to shrink the head space to a minimum. Due to the aforementioned part tolerances, it's helpful to have an adjustment feature in the piston so you can shorten or lengthen it as needed to achieve a slight interference (camover effect) when the pump arm is closed, meaning head space has been reduced to something approximating zero. I'm looking at the photos and description on Alliance's site and it's not obvious to me that their piston has this feature. I could be overlooking it or it may be that they've acquired a sufficient understanding of the tolerances to come up with a fixed length that works well. Frankly, I wouldn't want to sell an adjustable one if I were them...I can only imagine the volume of phone and email support arising from users who botched the installation.

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

I see! Thank you all!now I saw one with the adjustment thing built in. I forget which site has it gunna have to scrounge around the internet again

 

[Simplemann]

I had a chance to go to the range today and shoot the 2289 at 25 yards and I was happy with the way it performed next time I'm going to try 50 yard section This pumper just keeps impressing me, if I was more tech savvy and 30 years younger I'd post some pics.

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

I had a chance to go to the range today and shoot the 2289 at 25 yards and I was happy with the way it performed next time I'm going to try 50 yard section This pumper just keeps impressing me, if I was more tech savvy and 30 years younger I'd post some pics.

See I love mine too! Haha just wanna squeeze as much oomph out as I can. Don't plan on too much more but then again I do

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

Great information! Well documented JFYI this is want I got on my all stock 2289 using Crosman HP 14.3: (5 pumps 398 fps 5.03 fpe) (10 pumps 501 fps 7.97 fpe) and just for curiosity I pumped it 12 times and 522fps with 8.65 fpe.

Finally got this info!wasnt sure the pumps you had done (so i pumped: 3,5,7,10,12 times) but DID remeber to use CPHPs!I might try again bc when pumping, it had been a while since i got it out; felt dry during the test. So, I oiled it and ran another roundway smoother pumping
I'm gunna make a checklist for my lead slingers need to oil them more often. Was easier when I had fewer
Anyways; enjoy and compare! Let me know what other pellets you have. Maybe I have others to match up with you on to compare.

 

[Simplemann]

Finally got this info!wasnt sure the pumps you had done (so i pumped: 3,5,7,10,12 times) but DID remeber to use CPHPs!I might try again bc when pumping, it had been a while since i got it out; felt dry during the test. So, I oiled it and ran another roundway smoother pumping
I'm gunna make a checklist for my lead slingers need to oil them more often. Was easier when I had fewer
Anyways; enjoy and compare! Let me know what other pellets you have. Maybe I have others to match up with you on to compare.

View attachment 336406

Wow your results are so similar to what I got. Yes oiling makes a difference for sure, it makes the pumping sooo much smoother and increases the FPS/FPE I know this isn't a big revelation but seeing the results yourself really makes the light come on. The pellets I have: CPHP, Piranha's,JSB Match Diabolo Jumbo RS 13.43 gr, RWS Hobby 11.9 gr, and RWS Superpoint 14.5 gr. I'm still playing around with trying to find out what pellets shoot best. I'm wanting to install the scope to truly know but don't have a steel breech yet.

 

[ray1377]

With any of the crosman pumpers its all about small gains all adding up to larger goals. First ditch everything you can that's plastic. Try to use metal as much as possible. Steel breech, all metal flat top piston and get yourself a metal barrel band pivot block. I took wyoman's lead with drilling and securing both the valve and the pivot barrel band to the compression tube. You want no give or slop while pumping. Also either sleeve the valve entry hole or use a pin in the check valve, either one to make the area where the air passes from the piston into the valve small as possible. Also drill your barrel transfer port out to match your valve throat and use poly tube instead of the small restrictive factory transfer port. The valve is the factory size with no internal modifications other than contouring and smoothing the valve stem area where air passes from within the valve to the transfer port area. With all this and using a 14.5 barrel I can get 610 fps using 14.3 JSB's on 10 pumps. This same platform using a 14.5 .177 barrel makes 720 fps on 10 pumps, but man is it forever LOUD
If you want to make more power with fewer pumps you might do a search for "valve stuffing" and find more info. I haven't done it but others have.

Thx
Ray

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

With any of the crosman pumpers its all about small gains all adding up to larger goals. First ditch everything you can that's plastic. Try to use metal as much as possible. Steel breech, all metal flat top piston and get yourself a metal barrel band pivot block. I took wyoman's lead with drilling and securing both the valve and the pivot barrel band to the compression tube. You want no give or slop while pumping. Also either sleeve the valve entry hole or use a pin in the check valve, either one to make the area where the air passes from the piston into the valve small as possible. Also drill your barrel transfer port out to match your valve throat and use poly tube instead of the small restrictive factory transfer port. The valve is the factory size with no internal modifications other than contouring and smoothing the valve stem area where air passes from within the valve to the transfer port area. With all this and using a 14.5 barrel I can get 610 fps using 14.3 JSB's on 10 pumps. This same platform using a 14.5 .177 barrel makes 720 fps on 10 pumps, but man is it forever LOUD
If you want to make more power with fewer pumps you might do a search for "valve stuffing" and find more info. I haven't done it but others have.

Thx
Ray

I've been researching it for almost 6 months
Only things I've changed are:
Steel breech
Extended bolt probe
DonnyFL adapter
Buck-rail.com silencer
*tested without silencer
Forgot how loud it was without it