A question for Weihrauch Field Pro Owners.

I recently bought a second hand Weihrauch Hw95 Field Pro with a Weihrauch 3-9x40 AO scope on there. I was hoping to use it but it has a weird slightly warm tint to the image. The scope is otherwise very nice. Good tactile turrets that seem to track well, metal screw in scope covers and a sharp image. Unfortunately the warm tint turns me off. Anyone else with a Field Pro notice that tint with the Weihrauch scopes? If it's normal maybe I'll put it up on FleaBay. If it's not I don't want to sell it without full disclosure.

Thanks all.
Ron
 
Many cheap Chinese scopes have this warm tint. If you have money for a Leupold, buy a Leupold, еyes cost more.
I'm sure it's probably a cheap Chinese scope. I won't burden anyone with it. Use it for a wheel chock or something.
It's weird they give you a crap scope and top shelf rings to mount it.
Someday I might own a Leupold. Until then my Hawkes are fine with me
 
The Optisan CP scope line is a very nice choice for the HW95. Very bright with a nice mildot reticle. They are smaller and lighter than the Hawke scopes of same magnification. I found out that they have an excellent replacement warranty service as well. Top notch.

 
I have only Nikon 3-9x40AO airgun/rimfire scopes on all my Weihrauch’s. They are crystal clear very good quality scopes. Nikon dropped their entire line of scopes. If you can find a ‘Buckmaster’ 3-9 which are easy to find, the parallax can be manually adjusted to a specific yardage. (By removing the objective ring) They are fantastic scopes and can be found for less than a new Hawke. They are made in the Philippians not China. This picture is the exact model I have as an extra one that came off my .223 (different than my rimfire models) and the parallax can be adjusted manually. I don’t know if all Nikons can be adjusted manually or not but this one can.
5847FB70-09A0-49BA-8BCC-E59F7F0C3CFD.jpeg
 
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Hi, Bear,
I happen to have one of those Nikons lying around! Would you describe the process of resetting the parallax?
John
Hello John.
I use my gun vise pads and insert the small ring on the objective len in the pads. Tighten the vise just enough to get a hold of ring. Mine was stubborn and couldn’t get it off with my hands. Once the small front ring is off, the lens move freely and has a couple little notches in it if needed. If you want 50 yards then move the lens in until you get a clear picture and when moving your head around your reticle stays put on the target with no movement as your eye is moving around. This test should be done with an adjustable objective anyway because they are just an approximation.
 
Thanks bear!
It turns out I can unscrew the lock ring by hand, but the lens wants to unscrew with it. I guess I'll have to see if I can hold the lens in place while unscrewing the lock ring. I think I'll ponder that for a while before I proceed!
Should be a notch in the lens ring you can hold with a tiny screwdriver. The outer ring must be temporarily stuck to the inner lens ring.
 
If you can get by without a lot of magnification you can use some 100 yard parallax scopes. My Hawke 4x is 100 yard parralax and I have no problem with clarity or parallax past ten yards. My AR has a 1-6 it's crystal clear at 5 yards at lower magnifications.
It may be clear but it will have parallax error. Head placement will be very fussy. Any slight eye changes and the scope will be off. Look through the scope at a target. Move your head very slightly around and the reticle will move all around the target. With correct parallax the reticle and target will stay put while moving your eye around. This is one of the things that separates the cheap scopes from the good ones. The better quality the scope is the more forgiving the eye placement is.
edit: Parallax error can be corrected manually.
This is how the old boys did before adjustable objectives. Back your eye off the scope until you see a dark circle around the edges. Keeping the circle perfectly even and the reticle perfectly centered simultaneously corrects the parallax error. Not easy to do. Practice.
 
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It may be clear but it will have parallax error. Head placement will be very fussy. Any slight eye changes and the scope will be off. Look through the scope at a target. Move your head very slightly around and the reticle will move all around the target. With correct parallax the reticle and target will stay put while moving your eye around. This is one of the things that separates the cheap scopes from the good ones. The better quality the scope is the more forgiving the eye placement is.
edit: Parallax error can be corrected manually.
This is how the old boys did before adjustable objectives. Back your eye off the scope until you see a dark circle around the edges. Keeping the circle perfectly even and the reticle perfectly centered simultaneously corrects the parallax error. Not easy to do. Practice.
I have no problems with parallax errors with my Hw50/4x32 Vantage combo. The potential for parallax errors increase with objective size and (IIRC) magnification. A small objective, low power scope and good technique can easily mitigate parallax errors. With this rifle set up I can shoot single round hole five shot groups at ten yards where parallax error should be tremendous.
Parallax errors are greatly overestimated. There's formulas to determine potential parallax errors that make it seem significant. At air rifle ranges you'd really have to have very bad techniques to see such errors at your target. How hard is it to center your eye in the scope. I mean really? We're not shooting a thousand yards here.
 
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If you can get by without a lot of magnification you can use some 100 yard parallax scopes. My Hawke 4x is 100 yard parralax and I have no problem with clarity or parallax past ten yards. My AR has a 1-6 it's crystal clear at 5 yards at lower magnifications.
Did you happen to get a Sig 1-6 for your AR? I've been looking hard at the Sig and Sig Mount at PSA. I had a Bushnell 1-4. Kept it on 1X for close work and it was as good as a red dot.
 
Did you happen to get a Sig 1-6 for your AR? I've been looking hard at the Sig and Sig Mount at PSA. I had a Bushnell 1-4. Kept it on 1X for close work and it was as good as a red dot.
I got a Burris RT-6 1-6x24. Haven't used it much so I can't comment on durability or practicality. The glass seems as good or maybe better as any other mid price scope I own. It's pretty heavy. I used a very light Aero mount to compensate. I don't hate it or love it. So far my first impressions are its nice glass.
 
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