Weihrauch beech stock maintenance

I just sand them down with 1000 steel wool and spray can varnish. Maybe after a week once more?"O" Schoch tape off the checkering before spray"unless ya like the Wall Mart look?

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New member of this board I have a 2 year old Beeman R9

Love it but it does like to shake things loose

What is the recommended torque for stock and trigger guard screws?
22inlbs for the two front screws, 44inlbs for the front larger trigger guard screw, and 22inlbs for the rear smaller trigger guard screw
 
I have had good results with this product on my HW95L Beechwood stock.

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I have heard about Renaissance wax for use on many firearms. Just curious though, with it, or any wax, how do you keep it from building up in the checkered areas. Seems it would be kinda hard to keep it out of those areas. Maybe a toothbrush? I've heard Renaissance is great stuff.
 
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Never wanted to change my stocks finnish as all are nice walnut or exceptional beech. I use beeswax furniture spray/ polish, doesn't change color, protects from water/ moisture, does not build up, self cleaning when you apply another coat!! Good for the metal as well. Turned on to this stuff by the Amish craftsmen that made our furniture. Been using this stuff as pellet lube and wood protector for over 30 years, never found anything better !!
 
New member of this board I have a 2 year old Beeman R9

Love it but it does like to shake things loose

What is the recommended torque for stock and trigger guard screws?
Before torquing those screws, why not smooth it out with a simple tune so it doesn't shake things loose? Better for your rifle in the long run....
 
I keep a microfiber cloth infused with a "light coat" of Ballistol in a thick plastic bag in my shooting bag. After shooting each weapon, I wipe them down with the cloth and then put them back into the rifle case. I might refresh the cloth once a month, preventative maintenance pays off in the long run.
 
I keep a microfiber cloth infused with a "light coat" of Ballistol in a thick plastic bag in my shooting bag. After shooting each weapon, I wipe them down with the cloth and then put them back into the rifle case. I might refresh the cloth once a month, preventative maintenance pays off in the long run.
I agree, just humidity alone will cause rust to develop over time if left unchecked, Although the oil doesn't transfer into the wood on most wooden gun stocks of the day due to the types of finishes...it surely doesn't hurt them to wipe the finish down with oil.
 
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I will be 78 this year.
My oldest air rifle is 40 bought from Doc Beeman.
When I was a young lad my grandfather used nothing but BLO on his rifle stocks.
He told me he did it like this.
Once a day for a week.
Once a week for a month.
Once a month for year then,
Once a year for the rest of your life.

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Yes but the beech stocks are sealed with a clear laquer. No oils or waxes will get through to it. I have oiled many beech stocks. Some turned out beautiful and some Ghastly. I now would only oil a beech stock if it was awful and could only be improved as with this hw80 stock.
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Never wanted to change my stocks finnish as all are nice walnut or exceptional beech. I use beeswax furniture spray/ polish, doesn't change color, protects from water/ moisture, does not build up, self cleaning when you apply another coat!! Good for the metal as well. Turned on to this stuff by the Amish craftsmen that made our furniture. Been using this stuff as pellet lube and wood protector for over 30 years, never found anything better !!
Are you talking about this product? My wife uses this on everything.

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Are you talking about this product? My wife uses this on everything.

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Yes...this stuff is awesome, great for wood and also protects metal. Makes my deep blued rifle look great..also use it to seal my gunstocks by spraying in the cutout for the action. As a pellet lube it is excellent, no build up, easy clean and has improved accuracy in numerous springers.
 
The factory finish is a amber lacquer. It won’t darken over the finish. If you want it darker the clear coat needs to be removed. Beechwood is difficult to work with so be sure you want to go down this rabbit hole. The stock as is needs no care like finish oils. An occasional coat of wax is fine but not really necessary. If you decide to refinish the stock there is help here to be had. This is a before and after I recently did. And the old stock color was better than the newest Weihrauch stocks. I would have to do it but it is a pain. The original finish was quite orange in color and the shiny clear coat was sprayed over the checkering. Looked like a Wally World special. Weihrauch needs to get back to there roots and make beautiful stocks again. IMHO.View attachment 342153
The factory finish is a amber lacquer. It won’t darken over the finish. If you want it darker the clear coat needs to be removed. Beechwood is difficult to work with so be sure you want to go down this rabbit hole. The stock as is needs no care like finish oils. An occasional coat of wax is fine but not really necessary. If you decide to refinish the stock there is help here to be had. This is a before and after I recently did. And the old stock color was better than the newest Weihrauch stocks. I would have to do it but it is a pain. The original finish was quite orange in color and the shiny clear coat was sprayed over the checkering. Looked like a Wally World special. Weihrauch needs to get back to there roots and make beautiful stocks again. IMHO.View attachment 342153
What was your method of stripping back, staining and refinish? Looks so much nicer than original. How has it lasted since?
 
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