I didn't really expect to win this HW55 auction

Refinish the wood on this 1912 BSA Mil Pat (middle) and it would be very near mint condition. Don't dare do it. Same for the little Juvenile pattern below it. Collectors want them as found and will pay big $ for them as they are. A Mil Pat like that is practically "name your price" and the Juvenile is very rare as well.
P1019874.JPG
P1019878.JPG


IMG_3405.jpg

The front sight on this 1906 "BSA Air Rifle" is a shop made replica. Sights for them are unobtanium. And it was missing. So I made a replica
(2) of the most rare version. The Barleycorn. This was necessary to make the gun functional. Nothing else should be done to this gun. A rub of BLO would be ok on the stock. That could be considered maintenance. As well as a new leather seal but I left the original in this one. It didn't have a spring so for now it has a cut down HW50 spring in it. Shhhhh!
Thanks for looking, guys
P1010156.jpg
P1010126.jpg
P1010111.jpg
P1010146.jpg
 
To me it is essential that the gun functions, and is safe to shoot. But I have deep respect for the original parts, and seldom do any adjustments/cut-downs/sanding on parts if I regard the gun as collectible. In that case I built additional parts, and take good care of the old one for later.
For example my old family Kongsberg long Krag. Making it safe to shoot, but keeping all the original 130 years old parts well stored for later.
Many will say this is a “criminal act” to a iconic piece, but now it can be safely used on the range, and the original parts can be reinstalled whenever I want. https://www.airgunnation.com/attachments/2d25bb1b-9cfb-4ad4-bd09-4133ffa633e6-jpeg.366341/


FBA5A94E-E0A3-4245-918B-3ED84C751C26.jpeg


82F6F1B6-130B-46D5-811B-77747B2D0B2B.jpeg


B0FBBDC4-E4E6-48D8-9FD1-6089DAF37371.jpeg


View attachment 2D25BB1B-9CFB-4AD4-BD09-4133FFA633E6.jpeg

F09E5EC3-9FC4-4C99-9DFA-13142272619F.jpeg


CDE0697C-15F3-4CF3-BFE4-EFF8CD3838A9.jpeg


ECF18079-DDB6-4229-9879-35D1EA87120F.jpeg


AF99510C-3472-4338-962F-173EC5AA8B70.jpeg
 
Oh yeah, it finally showed up a week or so ago. Hardly any packing in the too large box! A little bit of wadded brown paper packing. Very little. The spring is completely shot. It might shoot 50y if you angle it right. The action is speckled everywhere and browned where it gets handled. The stock could be made half decent again. Was "refinished". I can recut the checkers no sweat. I might. The butt pad is cracked but could possibly repaired to "good enough". Or is there a replacement available? I am capable of fitting a butt plate, prefer rubber non adjustable. Reasonably priced! The gun's not worth much. I already have a JM R8 spring recommended for HW55's. I'm in no rush, I'll work on it sometime. Just another gun, I don't worship them. Now I have 4 HW55's. This one's uglyyyyy.
 
I don't know of a source for the curved buttplates unfortunately.

For whatever it's worth - some HW 55 S's sold under the "Burgo" label back in the day actually came with a flat sporter buttplate - I guess they saw the 55 S more as a deluxe light sporter, than a serious match rifle. To my eye it's a clean look that fits well with the uncluttered "S" stock.

Pic is a 1963 Burgo 55.

IMG_3495.jpeg
 
Last edited:
What should I do with this?
Here'a a 1961 HW55MM that some clown placed in a vise, damaging the otherwise almost perfect original stock, and then mangled the cocking lever pivot!

View attachment 365859

View attachment 365860

View attachment 365861

View attachment 365862
I would steam out the damage. You will no doubt need to remove the old finish then steam away! I am certain that the vice damage can be corrected and with very little sanding but it takes patience. Before sanding/finish removal you would need to mask off all the checkering and with with a deft touch trim the masking tape to cover just the checkering. See photos. I used and x-acto knife.
IMG_3029.JPG
IMG_3006.JPG
IMG_3033.JPG
Try to match the existing stain before applying a finish. I highly recommend a London Oil type finish. If you don't feel confident in your wood working abilities then I would call Mike Abernathy to do the job. Might cost some bucks but worth every penny IMO.