WHAT YARDAGE FOR ZEROING

I received a new rifle yesterday and want to sight it in out to fifty yards as that’s my self imposed limit, and pretty much the farthest my hunting area would allow because of trees and vegetation.
My desire is to zero the rifle so I just have come ups where all my distance variations from reticle center would be below the horizontal of the reticle. I don’t dial when pesting because I could to easily forget to dial (short attention span). I LRF my prey and then use come up dope.
The caliber is .30 at 848fps, 44.75 JSB Exact.
Appreciate any help on what’s the best way of going about that task.
 
Well,... You could start at 10m. Zero that being it right there and easy . Then pop a shot or 2 at 50y. Most times you'll be pretty darn close.. then what little you need to or do at 50y once you get it in as you like set up another 10m card and shoot it again 1 or 2 shots .. keep me hat card ad your reference . So if you need to zero again you know where at 10m card to put your poi to get back near on 50y as needed ..
 
This is the setup on my Raw hm1000x. 30. This should give you some idea.

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If you have a ballistics program, MERO, Chairgun, Strelok, all of them have a "optimum zero" function once you put in your data correctly.

With a 50 yard maximum range, that should do good for you. You WILL have hold overs at shorter and longer distances than your PBR (point blank range), but you are going to have those anyway. So choosing the optimum zero given by the ballistics program is probably your best bet.

If you don't have a chrono or ballistics program, then just take the advice given by others here and shoot until you know, which you need to do anyway. (smile)

All my best!

Kerry
 
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If you have a ballistics program, MERO, Chairgun, Strelok, all of them have a "optimum zero" function once you put in your data correctly.

With a 50 yard maximum range, that should do good for you. You WILL have hold overs at shorter and longer distances than your PBR (point blank range), but you are going to have those anyway. So choosing the optimum zero given by the ballistics program is probably your best bet.

If you don't have a chrono or ballistics program, then just take the advice given by others here and shoot until you know, which you need to do anyway. (smile)

All my best!

Kerry
Yeah, I guess I’ll just have to shoot till I know. I don’t fool around with apps. As others say “I’m old”.
 
@ Rcs9250, if your scope height is close to 2.15 " I plugged data into strelok pro and this is what I came up with. @ 848 fps a 45 yd zero will Hava a close range zero @ yds18 yds and dead on out to 49 yds. Send me your exact scope hgt and the scope power you shoot on . Will cook something up for you.

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@ Rcs9250, if your scope height is close to 2.15 " I plugged data into strelok pro and this is what I came up with. @ 848 fps a 45 yd zero will Hava a close range zero @ yds18 yds and dead on out to 49 yds. Send me your exact scope hgt and the scope power you shoot on . Will cook something up for you.

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It looks like, from the chart, that between 10 and 50 yards there’s a 6.4” drop. Of course the drop starts out slow but as velocity drops the vertical drop increments increase too. I guess I’ll just start at about 30-35yds and go from there.
 
I think you will find a zero at somewhere between 34 and 38 yards to be comfortable if you expect to make a lot of shots out to ~50 yards.

And that will still allow you a pretty wide PBR, so hold overs won't come into play until less than 22 yards or so.

That is, if your fps is going to be somewhere around 800fps+.

Just a guess because all I shoot is .177, so I have no experience with higher calibers.

So don't take my word for it... SHOOT SHOOT SHOOT! (smile)

All my best!

Kerry
 
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In that .30 that's good weight at sub 900fps.. it just what ever yard you want zero it's fire 2 shots ( 2ed a proof shot) measure what your off the use the appropriate click value for that yardage and click it in .. I guess like a 1/4" at 100 would be 1/8 at 50 and so on ..

I also prefer to find a pellet I like and stick with it . Helps keep a constant...
 
^ Agree with BackStop…….Zero it at 35 yards, and note your holdovers at 10 and 50. There shouldn’t be that much difference at close range like that. I would also do it at different temperatures as your POI will change slightly with temp swings. Just write it down on sticky to have where you shoot from.
 
It looks like, from the chart, that between 10 and 50 yards there’s a 6.4” drop. Of course the drop starts out slow but as velocity drops the vertical drop increments increase too. I guess I’ll just start at about 30-35yds and go from there.
Don't overthink it. With a mv of 848 and zeroed @ 45 yds this is a simple chart. Moa on milquad.

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