Using N2 with GX pump

I have added a large filter housing on mine and it stops the flutter completely. A small filter housing did not do much at all. I feed it between 6-10psi and it seems to run fine at those pressures. The compressor does fill faster with inlet pressure increase, and at those low rates I can't imagine hurting anything. I'm not going to try anything higher as we don't exactly know the compression ratio and it could be possible to over pressurize the second stage and cause problems. Nitrogen is the best idea I've tried and I just bought a larger cylinder so I'll have plenty of N2 to carry me through.

My next project is to mod the inlet of the CS3 to handle a pipe fitting and feed it N2.

IMG_7418.JPG
 
Looks good!

The "compression ratio" issue is not a problem - you won't be overloading the second stage, as these pumps basically balance the load through reed type valves. Compression load is basically split between the two cylinders dynamically as pressure increases - these are not fixed closed cylinders like in a car engine - the pressure "leaks out" into the next stage when the pressure rises above what the valve has holding it closed. So you are actually reducing the relative compression load on the cylinder by feeding under pressure.

Think of it this way - when boosting from 1 bar to 300 bar, that is a 300 times increase in pressure in two steps. The square root of 300 is bit over 17, so at 300 bar both cylinders are basically compressing at that level. By feeding it 6 psi, you are feeding it about 40% more air, so it is starting at 1.4 bar. We have to "normalize" that starting pressure out in a two stage system, so booting that 1.4 to 300 bar would be a 214 times increase in pressure (300/1.4). So now the square root is under 15, so less actual compression takes place (40% less, although the pressure is the same at the output.)

This is a good thing, but I would not go overboard on it - I would not go over 2 bar absolute, or about 15 psi gauge, on the input side just out of caution. That said, you could test the stress on the compressor itself indirectly by measuring the temperature of the heads over time at different input pressures. There will be a balance point where the load is going down initially, but then rises as the total amount of air being compressed on each stroke leads to higher heat load because the total amount of air being compressed on each stroke is higher too. But you should be fine where you are now.
 
I've modded my CS3 to use nitrogen now, but am just wondering out loud. Do you suppose there's any reason not use the auto shutoff? I normally turn on the N2 and then the compressor, and on the CS2 I then shut them off together, but on the CS3 it will shutoff and then I have to manually shut off the N2. I can't think that 6 or so psi on the inlet is a problem when not running. I did however order a 1/4" 12V solenoid to operate the N2 inlet at the same time as the start stop switch.
Any thoughts?
 
Looks good!

The "compression ratio" issue is not a problem - you won't be overloading the second stage, as these pumps basically balance the load through reed type valves. Compression load is basically split between the two cylinders dynamically as pressure increases - these are not fixed closed cylinders like in a car engine - the pressure "leaks out" into the next stage when the pressure rises above what the valve has holding it closed. So you are actually reducing the relative compression load on the cylinder by feeding under pressure.

Think of it this way - when boosting from 1 bar to 300 bar, that is a 300 times increase in pressure in two steps. The square root of 300 is bit over 17, so at 300 bar both cylinders are basically compressing at that level. By feeding it 6 psi, you are feeding it about 40% more air, so it is starting at 1.4 bar. We have to "normalize" that starting pressure out in a two stage system, so booting that 1.4 to 300 bar would be a 214 times increase in pressure (300/1.4). So now the square root is under 15, so less actual compression takes place (40% less, although the pressure is the same at the output.)

This is a good thing, but I would not go overboard on it - I would not go over 2 bar absolute, or about 15 psi gauge, on the input side just out of caution. That said, you could test the stress on the compressor itself indirectly by measuring the temperature of the heads over time at different input pressures. There will be a balance point where the load is going down initially, but then rises as the total amount of air being compressed on each stroke leads to higher heat load because the total amount of air being compressed on each stroke is higher too. But you should be fine where you are now.
I must admit, it's not worth going much higher anyway. The fill times are so short, even on my 480cc CF bottle guns, that I don't need any more speed. The compressor doesn't even get warm to the touch. It is surprising how cool they run.
I understand the math and thanks for pointing it out.
I ordered a better regulator for low pressure, and valves so I can leave it set and just open and close the valve when filling. My little purge regulator is really just OK for this use, but they are known to fail in constant use.