I have a bench vise on the way. I’m headed to a wedding. So I’ll be away for a week but that plus a bunch of new punches should be here once I return and I’ll follow up here
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[UPDATE] General Advice Dealing with Roll/Pins/Punches
- Thread starter Bernie7
- Start date
In general,
I have found some pins to be directional. Those pins need to be backed out rather than punched through.
Once the pins are out you can test fit both ends of the pin, and both sides of the gun for loose or tight fit.
I have found some pins to be directional. Those pins need to be backed out rather than punched through.
Once the pins are out you can test fit both ends of the pin, and both sides of the gun for loose or tight fit.
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I finally got the pin out!!!!
I ordered a vise from Amazon and used a block of wood to prevent damaging the forward plug. Inserted a 3/32 punch and started to slowly clamp down (had already ‘pre-treated’ with Kroil like 30min earlier). The plug would start to turn sideways because there isn’t a clear line for the punch so it has to come in at an angle due to the nubs where the other half connects.
Ttied multiple times but T he pin didn’t budge…
I decided I’d try a hammer again now that I had a slightly beefier punch and now I finally had an anvil (built into the vise). Once again placed a piece of wood over the anvil surface to protect the rest of the plug.
Gave it a few solid hits, checked the back side of the pin and sure enough it had moved! Continued to give it some good whacks until the punch couldn’t go any further. Grabbed the back of the pin with locking pliers and wiggled it out. I then used the same locking pliers to pull the “locking pin”. Think I’m gonna do some SUPER light sanding before putting the pin back in.
I believe having the anvil and piece of wood allowed higher energy transfer as it was over a shorter period of time due to not allowing the rubber to soak up some of it. Also the slightly greater diameter of the punch was less prone to bending and more resilient along with a larger striking face as well. Basically the right tool for the job was key.
I still have a question though->
When I finished everything I was left with some damage to the face of the plug where the mag would sit. Please see pic
In the same vein as my previous right tool for the job point. What are people’s recommendations for sanding/grinding down/removal of excess aluminum from the flat surface. Just a hand file? Rotary tool with carbide bit? Open to suggestions!
I ordered a vise from Amazon and used a block of wood to prevent damaging the forward plug. Inserted a 3/32 punch and started to slowly clamp down (had already ‘pre-treated’ with Kroil like 30min earlier). The plug would start to turn sideways because there isn’t a clear line for the punch so it has to come in at an angle due to the nubs where the other half connects.
Ttied multiple times but T he pin didn’t budge…
I decided I’d try a hammer again now that I had a slightly beefier punch and now I finally had an anvil (built into the vise). Once again placed a piece of wood over the anvil surface to protect the rest of the plug.
Gave it a few solid hits, checked the back side of the pin and sure enough it had moved! Continued to give it some good whacks until the punch couldn’t go any further. Grabbed the back of the pin with locking pliers and wiggled it out. I then used the same locking pliers to pull the “locking pin”. Think I’m gonna do some SUPER light sanding before putting the pin back in.
I believe having the anvil and piece of wood allowed higher energy transfer as it was over a shorter period of time due to not allowing the rubber to soak up some of it. Also the slightly greater diameter of the punch was less prone to bending and more resilient along with a larger striking face as well. Basically the right tool for the job was key.
I still have a question though->
When I finished everything I was left with some damage to the face of the plug where the mag would sit. Please see pic
In the same vein as my previous right tool for the job point. What are people’s recommendations for sanding/grinding down/removal of excess aluminum from the flat surface. Just a hand file? Rotary tool with carbide bit? Open to suggestions!
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Countersink the hole just a bit, just enough to remove the raised burr. It will destroy the least amount of finish and will look fine when done.
Just an idea.
Dave
Just an idea.
Dave
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Just a tip for removing smaller press type pins. Use a cheap automatic center punch with the tip ground flat and the tapered part ground straight shanked like a drift punch. This can be done easily with the punch held in a drill using a bench grinder to shape.
It may take a few pops to get the pin moving but it is totally controlled and doesn’t have to be held in a vice. You will be surprised how well it works.
Dave
It may take a few pops to get the pin moving but it is totally controlled and doesn’t have to be held in a vice. You will be surprised how well it works.
Dave
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Just for clarification, would you advise doing this by hand or with a power tool? I’m almost thinking it makes sense to do this by hand given the small scale
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Either would be fine. I would advise using a small diameter countersink to avoid the upright ‘wall’ close to the hole. A variable speed drill would be fine and still give you the level of control you need.
A countersink cuts relatively slow so just check your progress as you go. It doesn’t appear like it will take much effort.
Dave
This is a 1/4” size that would work fine.
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