GX-CS4 $529/$477 with discount code

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F6Hawk said:
Don't forget to flush the water system a few times to clear out any "gunk" that seems to be standard with these pumps. Don't use antifreeze unless you'll be using it where it can freeze. Plain distilled water, or perhaps a bit of water wetter if you want fungicide/surfactant additive.

Apparently you also need to clean the grease from underneath the burst disk a few times initially. Jason recommends running the pump for two hours with no back pressure as a break-in run.

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I never have cleaned out the ball valve under the burst disc. Then again, the longest I have run mine has been less than 5 minutes. Usually less than 3 minutes as I only top off my Akela and Fortitude and keep them in their sweet spots. The Akela because it is unregulated and the Fortitude I keep at a lower psi because it keeps the regulator from creeping as fast/much, which means I keep both at about 2600psi and generally pump up when they get about 300-500psi below that if not sooner. Actually, the times I have hand pumped since I got the CS4, the hand pump is faster.

On another note that I have been meaning to say something about for a while and this is probably not the best thread for it... well.., anyway.

I have never had a problem with moisture in any of my airguns. Until my health started to fail, I ALWAYS used hand pumps, but always topped off before I needed to pump more than about 30 pumps with the hand pump. Yes, I am driving to a point... (smile)

Since I have had the GX-CS4, I still top off at the same points and that means that I only run the CS4 for less than 2 or 3 minutes at a time.

The point I am driving at is I think because I never have hand pumped or used a compressor long enough for the temperature to rise much (the hand pumps felt hotter than the CS4 after the same amount of time/pressure) the moisture hasn't been as much of a problem as those who shoot down to the minimum pressure and then have to run their compressor a lot longer. The CS4, according to the reviews on YT that I have seen stayed very cool even during long intervals. However, the warmer a compressor/pump gets, at least IMHO, the more problems there are with moisture.

I also have always paid close attention to the dew point and RH and only pumped when both of those indicated the air was relatively dry for my area and depended on the a/c during the summer to help with that. Recently, although the temps have been low, the moisture in the air has been so high that I am almost thankful I haven't been able to shoot (no pests) because I would not have pumped under these extremely humid conditions.

Dang... after my recent heart attack I often lose my train of thought... and I have derailed. (heavy sigh)

Anyway, maybe you get my gist? (smile)

If you are only going to fill guns and even if you fill bottles or tanks, it runs very cool compared to what I have read about other small compressors including the YH.

Can a train derail twice? LOL!

All my best

Kerry
Ta-Ta Toothie said:
Has anyone experimented using an external Tig Torch cooler with any of these.
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If you read above, at least some portion of that was actually aimed at you and this post. I see no need for extra cooling with the Cs4.

All my best!

Kerry
 
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Dewy said:
What does cleaning the grease from underneath the burst disk do? Does it need to be done? This is the first I’ve heard of it. Are other members doing this step?
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I have no idea (my CS4 is still on order), but the Amazon seller ANKUL has a video on his YT page showing how to do it, and on another thread, I read that someone had a disc burst on them, and the first solution was to remove and clean all the grease from under it.

Ditto the flushing of the coolant system. Some seem to have a lot of "gunk" in there, others report none. Personally, when I get mine I will flush it thoroughly with fresh water (will report back as to the results and what I see), refill it with distilled water, and add a couple ounces of water wetter as a fungicide/anti-corrosive. Probably not necessary, but it will have the added advantage of making the water easier to see due to the color (I think).

Another thing that the seller recommends is running the compressor for two hours with no load as a break in. It wasn't in his email, but I think I picked that tidbit up from other folks here on AGN who have corresponded with him. A copy of the email I received after ordering is below. It addresses the issue about cleaning under the burst disc:
Hello Valued Buyer
Thanks for choosing our new launched CS4 pcp compressor. We will provide lifetime after-sale support.
Pls keep in mind the important information when you received.
1. Note: For the first use, it must be filled with about 500ml of pure water or antifreeze before you turn on power. Be sure to add antifreeze if it freezes in your area. Otherwise, will cause damage ! !

notice : when switch on the power, the water pump will work first. be sure to check if the water flows from the upside hole in the water tank into tank.if not flowing, pls contact with us and don't press " start" button to use.

2. Do not turn the grease knob until after 4-6 hours of use, then turn it 1-2 turn. we added before factory. Afterwards, when the speed slows down, turn it around again.
After the break-in period, there is no need to add grease any more if speed is normal.

3. ATTENTION: when filling is complete, please release the bottle valve first (when filling bottle) and then open compressor's bleed valve to release line pressure. All pressure must be released from compressor before next starting.

4. warm note:
This CS4 model was designed with 2 stages of check valve inside. When working, it does not leak. but after turn off power, it may leak pressure from the second stage check valve. For example, 300 bar drops to 200bar in several minutes. This is normal and please don't worry.

In future, if met " Everything sounds fine and works good until 180bar. The unit holds good pressure but will not go above 200bar". It is not defective. You only need to drain the excess grease by refer youtube video.

The max design pressure is 5800psi. Make sure if your air tank support .


Thanks
Jason from GX
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F6Hawk said:
From watching tear-down videos, I think it is a crankcase vent, nothing more. There is no air being "intaked" via the bottom of the piston. That happens thru the filter housed within the blue plastic holder from what I've seen.
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It is a crankcase vent. Air pulses when pumping. The air intake is not visible with cover on. I have 12 or 13 hours so far on mine. Pleased. I put a one-way valve as soon as the air line exits the case, bleed moisture every 20-30 minutes. I have also added good size moisture filter after the one-way valve. May be overkill regarding moisture. IDK
 
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Quality usually cost money. How do you think they manage to sell a compressor with that performance level for $500? Corners have to be cut somewhere! There are many power supplies you can buy on Amazon eBay or AliExpress that are from China for much lower price. However I don't believe the quality will be much better than what was already shipped with a compressor. I will run mine with the power supply that came with until it dies and then figure something else out. Hooking it up to car batteries won't work for very long without the engine running or your battery will be dead. Besides without your car running with a 30 amp load you'll be lucky if your car battery puts out at 12 volts . The power supply coming with the compressor puts out over 13.5 volts. If you don't mind running your car while you're using your compressor that's a viable option.
 
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I am putting a little back for an Alkin(possibly-maybe) depending on this PCP airgun format joy. *All plusses so far!* But cost vs return comes into play here. I will run the snot out of the CN HPA unit or two(also have a GX L-E2) but I have a limit of what I personally consider reasonable cost wise. Amazon extended warranty(four years) comes into play here. Different people will have different values I am sure. Fun to tinker with these CN units are
 
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