Zeroing Question

Chairgun’s Optimal Zero Range function says I should zero my gun in at 31 yards. It’s Scope Cap, and the trajectory graph, say that the intercept is at 16 and 31 yards.

Does it matter which range I zero my air rifle in at – 16 or 31 yards?
No it doesn't matter.
 
Chairgun’s Optimal Zero Range function says I should zero my gun in at 31 yards. It’s Scope Cap, and the trajectory graph, say that the intercept is at 16 and 31 yards.

Does it matter which range I zero my air rifle in at – 16 or 31 yards?
Yes it can. Zero at 16, check at 31. If you zero at 31, is that the first or second time the pellet is crossing the line of sight?
 
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That's precisely why I was asking. I've always sighted in at the near range, and it always seemed to work out well with the far range -- though I can't say that I ever really checked it. But I've often wondered if I was doing it "right" or the best way possible.

Thanks, guys.
Another way to check without having to rezero you gun, is to check your chart. On strelok my sight in is 50 for my U2 700. But if I put that my distance is 25yds it shows the hold is the same.
 
Chairgun’s Optimal Zero Range function says I should zero my gun in at 31 yards. It’s Scope Cap, and the trajectory graph, say that the intercept is at 16 and 31 yards.

Does it matter which range I zero my air rifle in at – 16 or 31 yards?
This is all based on data entered into a program, so the output is only as good as the data input. I hate to say it, but the only way to know is to test it, and not just at those two ranges but at all ranges.

If the program says 16 and 31 have the same 0 holdover, and all the data input is correct, then technically it shouldn’t matter. That being said, the data often needs a bit of a tweak.
 
This is all based on data entered into a program, so the output is only as good as the data input. I hate to say it, but the only way to know is to test it, and not just at those two ranges but at all ranges.

If the program says 16 and 31 have the same 0 holdover, and all the data input is correct, then technically it shouldn’t matter. That being said, the data often needs a bit of a tweak.
Yup!
 
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This is all based on data entered into a program, so the output is only as good as the data input. I hate to say it, but the only way to know is to test it, and not just at those two ranges but at all ranges.

If the program says 16 and 31 have the same 0 holdover, and all the data input is correct, then technically it shouldn’t matter. That being said, the data often needs a bit of a tweak.
Yes, and then we have the real life variables like the weather changes throughout the day (which can be pretty dramatic here), I live at 9,000' ASL, using springers, which aren't the best guns to be using at high altitudes -- all these factors significantly affect POI. I have to chrony and zero in what seems like average conditions, and live with, or adjust to, the variations.

And even that changes from season to season.

I'm not even so sure this dual-zero thing will be the best thing for our situation, though I am inclined to give it, or maybe a minor variation of it, a try.
 
Yes, and then we have the real life variables like the weather changes throughout the day (which can be pretty dramatic here), I live at 9,000' ASL, using springers, which aren't the best guns to be using at high altitudes -- all these factors significantly affect POI. I have to chrony and zero in what seems like average conditions, and live with, or adjust to, the variations.

And even that changes from season to season.

I'm not even so sure this dual-zero thing will be the best thing for our situation, though I am inclined to give it, or maybe a minor variation of it, a try.
Just remember that it says optimal, but you don’t have to. If you zero where you want to, you are more than likely just going to have a separate “dual-zero”. In the end, the only thing that really matters is that you have accurate dope and that you have enough room for dialing or holdovers.

I have never bothered with the optimal once. It wasn’t that big of a deal to me.
 
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Just remember that it says optimal, but you don’t have to. If you zero where you want to, you are more than likely just going to have a separate “dual-zero”. In the end, the only thing that really matters is that you have accurate dope and that you have enough room for dialing or holdovers.

I have never bothered with the optimal once. It wasn’t that big of a deal to me.
It's never really mattered to me in the past, either. Except now I'm moving from an HW97K that was getting 810 fps to a ProSport that gets 720 fps up here at this insane altitude, and I miss that flatter trajectory, and the extended useful range where I don't have to hold over or under to make good, clean, ethical kills.
 
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Your Chairgun chart is pretty good at picking out these optimal zero ranges. I use a little longer 35 to 40 yard zero (depending on projectile speed) that has a seemingly similar flat trajectory effect with a little imperceptible hold under just before the far zero yardage mark. My goal is to have my holdunder to be about the caliber diameter. Tbis usually equates to a hash mark of hold under, if bench shooting at targets just under the far distance zero. Hunting with a scope set up like this is great too because the cross hair is used from 13-40 yards, then precise holdover beyond that.
 
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Strelok has a mode called "MRD Calculator". I zero at 54 yards as that's that mode shows is best.
Enter the radius of the trajectory height for vital zone that you want, mine is set at 5/8", and it will tell you recommended zero in my case:
Zero 54 yards
Max Point Blank Range (MPBR) 61 yards
Near Zero 24 yards
It does all the work for you.
Easy!

mike