How to cool a cs4 or cs4-i, even better than just bleeding the air pocket.

Bleeding the air pocket out of the cs4 models is simple and easy to do, and it'll result in lower temps, many times significantly.

However with about 15 to 20 minutes of work, you can potentially drop up to another 10 degrees.

It involves rotating the CS4 radiator and fan. Nice thing, the hoses and fan wires are plenty long enough to do this. The water lines will need trimmed is all.

GX will most likely be doing this to the radiators in the future as well... they are aware of the benefits and have been testing the compressors... It not only cools better, but eliminates the air pocket issue with first time fills.

Temps are at 30 minutes, at approximately 3500psi the entire run. One with factory position and air pocket cleared, the other with the radiator rotated. Obviously, your results will vary... but definitely should be better than not turning it.

(Results are nearly identical with cover on or off)

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Bleeding the air pocket out of the cs4 models is simple and easy to do, and it'll result in lower temps, many times significantly.

However with about 15 to 20 minutes of work, you can potentially drop up to another 10 degrees.

It involves rotating the CS4 radiator and fan. Nice thing, the hoses and fan wires are plenty long enough to do this. The water lines will need trimmed is all.

GX will most likely be doing this to the radiators in the future as well... they are aware of the benefits and have been testing the compressors... It not only cools better, but eliminates the air pocket issue with first time fills.

Temps are at 30 minutes, at approximately 3500psi the entire run. One with factory position and air pocket cleared, the other with the radiator rotated. Obviously, your results will vary... but definitely should be better than not turning it.

(Results are nearly identical with cover on or off)

View attachment 546286

View attachment 546287

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it looks like you changed the water flow. In the original the hose that returns water to the top of the fill tank is now coming from the other port on the radiator ? Am I right about that? I guess it would not make much difference any way, correct? Can you comment on all of the water flows? thanks,
 
it looks like you changed the water flow. In the original the hose that returns water to the top of the fill tank is now coming from the other port on the radiator ? Am I right about that? I guess it would not make much difference any way, correct? Can you comment on all of the water flows? thanks,
The water still exits the water pump to the cylinder head, from the head to the bottom of the radiator and out the top of the radiator to the reservoir.

You can switch the hoses around, but I would rather see the water forced up through the radiator and out to the reservoir. This is not like a car and the pump can't suck air do to its placement. Forcing the water up will get rid of air pockets, and works very well.

I'll attach a picture of the other way to do it.

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The water still exits the water pump to the cylinder head, from the head to the bottom of the radiator and out the top of the radiator to the reservoir.

You can switch the hoses around, but I would rather see the water forced up through the radiator and out to the reservoir. This is not like a car and the pump can't suck air do to its placement. Forcing the water up will get rid of air pockets, and works very well.

I'll attach a picture of the other way to do it.

View attachment 546598
nice work , was it hard or complicated to rotate the radiator ?
 
nice work , was it hard or complicated to rotate the radiator ?
It's easy
Drain water
Unhook the two water lines
Unplug the fan
4 screws in front hold the fan radiator assembly...remove them
Remove the drain line
Slide radiator fan assembly out
Reinstall as in the photo
Replace screws and wire for the fan
Cut water lines to fit
Reinstall drain line
And that's it.

Start to finish should take no more than 20 minutes.
 
How good is the radiator working in either position?
The 'new' way you show in the photo suggests that maybe the hot water could be simply travelling directly from radiator 'in' spout to 'out' spout, and not going right through the entire core.
Not knocking your method, as the radiator would still have the same fault no matter which orientation, and your idea does look way better for cooling flow.
I'm used to radiators (car) 'usually' having the 'hot water in' (at the top) on the opposite side to 'the cold water out' (at the bottom).
This ensures that the water travels across the radiator for max air flow cooling.
You have me interested now, and I will look at mine tomorrow.
Thanks for the idea.
 
How good is the radiator working in either position?
The 'new' way you show in the photo suggests that maybe the hot water could be simply travelling directly from radiator 'in' spout to 'out' spout, and not going right through the entire core.
Not knocking your method, as the radiator would still have the same fault no matter which orientation, and your idea does look way better for cooling flow.
I'm used to radiators (car) 'usually' having the 'hot water in' (at the top) on the opposite side to 'the cold water out' (at the bottom).
This ensures that the water travels across the radiator for max air flow cooling.
You have me interested now, and I will look at mine tomorrow.
Thanks for the idea.
Correct, that is why I prefer to run it "backwards" and have the hot come in at the bottom. There is a divider in the radiator, but they sometimes are not perfect, so hot coming in the bottom, I just trust more and results in several compressors so far show it works.

To force it as in a car, the inlet and outlets would have to be at opposite sides, with one on top, the other on the bottom.
 
Correct, that is why I prefer to run it "backwards" and have the hot come in at the bottom. There is a divider in the radiator, but they sometimes are not perfect, so hot coming in the bottom, I just trust more and results in several compressors so far show it works.

To force it as in a car, the inlet and outlets would have to be at opposite sides, with one on top, the other on the bottom.
I guess without knowing exactly how the water is channeled through the radiator, it is difficult to determine if the full benefit of the radiator is being used. The ports are fairly close together as discussed. I wonder if the GX folks would have any comments about that?
 
I guess without knowing exactly how the water is channeled through the radiator, it is difficult to determine if the full benefit of the radiator is being used. The ports are fairly close together as discussed. I wonder if the GX folks would have any comments about that?
You can tell the whole radiator is being used in this position by using a laser thermometer on the opposite side. Or just touch it...

There is a divider between the ports inside the tanks. They are just off the shelf universal radiators used in other applications, such a computers.

The factory has been testing the radiator position themselves and I believe they will be using this position as well.
 
Just did mine about 1/2 an hour ago.
Mine is the CS4-i model so maybe a slight difference in the fan wire length?
Anyway, the sliding out of the pump and flipping it round went fine but my fan wire was a tad too short, so I undid the 4 wee 'nuts and bolts' that attach the fan to the radiator. Whipped the fan off and orientated it back to where it was before...and job done.
I pulled the hoses out of their radiator fittings and gave them a quick wrap with some tape to cover the hose end. Spilled maybe only a spoonful of the anti-freeze mixture.
Yes, it all seems to be pumping the water around just fine. Haven't used it to pump the gun up yet, so will check it all when that times comes.
Thanks for the idea. I'm sure it will be better than the original setup.