2 cylinder tuxing 4500 psi compressor PRV

The scariest but safest failure I've had was a Chinese brass foster clone letting loose under pressure. One cc of 250 bar air was equivalent to a 22 pistol with no ears 😂

The bov letting pressure out isn't a big deal, rapid failures get sketchy. Burst discs are a little sketchy. Pipe threads and hoses letting loose get
This app is killing me with its interface.. anyway, I've always wondered about those brass high pressure fittings. They don't look any different from regular fittings that are rated for much less pressure. And they're brass. WTF. But if that's all I have left to work with, I'll throw caution to the wind in a heartbeat LOL
 
The prv is the weak link when it's not a follow hose or piston ring or stripped out fitting or whatever part of the system might wear out one day. The PRV is more of a high limit switch that won't let us go any higher.

Any bottle that could explode isn't part of the compressor. If someone wants to make bottles explode with their compressor, it doesn't have to be a SCBA tank, and it doesn't have to be 5000 PSI. You can get an impressive explosion of a 100 psi compressor and a water bottle or Gatorade bottle and Schrader valve and some rocks. Or just a gatorade bottle, some water and some dry ice.

I posted this hack for those who got a 350 bar airgun but can't find an affordable compressor or doesn't want to buy a new one because the 4500 psi one is still working strong. If anyone reads this and decides they want to over fill an expired SCBA tank past 4500 psi. I say, go for it. And I hope their next of kin post the video on YouTube so I can get that little bit of satisfaction as I watch them leave the gene pool, knowing I did my part to help eradicate stupidity from future Generations.

But seriously, if the tank is going to blow before the burst disc, it's going to happen before 5,000 PSI
You are also missing that the various parts of the compressor may not handle the added pressure. Piston rings and various joints in the high pressure side. Highly unlikely with an 11% increase in pressure on a new compressor. On a compressor with some age to it, that could get interesting. With the amount of vibration fatigue in the parts is possible, but an 11% increase would only accelerate a failure.

As for those other explosive releases, materials is everything. Elasticity of plastic, rapid expansion causes whole body failure.
 
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You are also missing that the various parts of the compressor may not handle the added pressure. Piston rings and various joints in the high pressure side. Highly unlikely with an 11% increase in pressure on a new compressor. On a compressor with some age to it, that could get interesting. With the amount of vibration fatigue in the parts is possible, but an 11% increase would only accelerate a failure.

As for those other explosive releases, materials is everything. Elasticity of plastic, rapid expansion causes whole body failure.
Nope, I covered the extra wear and tear on the internal parts, a few times. ..I think I even mentioned the rings in the comment you're replying to.. I'm well aware of how dangerous rapidly expanding Plastics are. Some Plastics, like pvc, shatter like glass when they explode. That's why you should never Pump a PVC system up with air higher than 5 PSI. Anything higher has to be a hydrostatic test

The bottom line is you go to war with the Army you got. Nothing lasts forever. And I can pick up just the compressor without any filtration or anything like that for just a couple hundred bucks.

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I have 2 Tuxing 4500 psi compressors, one of them I Ordered on July 14, 2021 and the other Ordered on April 5, 2024, and for longevity of these or any compressor is to keep it cool and not just the head temp but also the oil to help ward off thermal break down, also to use the right oil for the type of compressor you using and the Tuxing twin cylinder is a reciprocating .

TRIAX Kompressor MV 100 / SAE 30 - Full Synthetic, Multi-Vis Air Compressor Oil - Commercial Grade - For Rotary, Vane, Screw, and Reciprocal - High Temp, 20,000 Hour Life, Non-Detergent (1 Gallon)​

Here are some reasons why you should not go over the 4500 psi!

absolutely should not exceed 4500 PSI when working with compressors designed for that limit. Here's why:

  1. Safety Risks: Compressors are engineered with specific pressure limits, and exceeding them can lead to catastrophic failures such as bursting hoses, damaged tanks, or even explosions. The Tuxing twin-cylinder and similar models are specifically rated for 4500 PSI, and pushing beyond this limit compromises their structural integrity.
  2. Component Wear and Tear: Operating beyond the recommended pressure accelerates the degradation of seals, valves, and other components, which can lead to costly repairs or complete compressor failure.
  3. Void of Warranty: If someone exceeds the pressure limit and damages the compressor, it voids the manufacturer's warranty. This means you're on your own for any repairs or replacements.
  4. Regulatory and Legal Concerns: Depending on your jurisdiction, exceeding specified limits on high-pressure equipment might be against safety regulations. This could expose you to liability issues in case of accidents. It would be wise not to go over the 4500 psi.

20250309_093437.jpg
 
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I won
This app is killing me with its interface.. anyway, I've always wondered about those brass high pressure fittings. They don't look any different from regular fittings that are rated for much less pressure. And they're brass. WTF. But if that's all I have left to work with, I'll throw caution to the wind in a heartbeat LOL
I save them and use them for low side connectors but everything 300+bar gets the real steel fosters after that exciting event.

I was introducing 2 new guys to pcp on their first day when that happened and it spooked them pretty bad. It wasn't dangerous beyond the whip with a metal weight flying towards the guys teeth that was filling his new fx. The group has since seen every one of us have something import burst, luckily relatively safely every time.
 
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This big tuxing allegedly does about a liter a minute so my concerns are rooted in a little bit more of an accelerated experience. I skipped the ring talk because ring flutter and tapered rings gets more technical than this needs to be. Those loops of tubing are what I going to re pipe because the flares are Soooo shoddy.

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This big tuxing allegedly does about a liter a minute so my concerns are rooted in a little bit more of an accelerated experience. I skipped the ring talk because ring flutter and tapered rings gets more technical than this needs to be. Those loops of tubing are what I going to re pipe because the flares are Soooo shoddy.

View attachment 551660
Very nice!
 
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This big tuxing allegedly does about a liter a minute so my concerns are rooted in a little bit more of an accelerated experience. I skipped the ring talk because ring flutter and tapered rings gets more technical than this needs to be. Those loops of tubing are what I going to re pipe because the flares are Soooo shoddy.

View attachment 551660
Are you certain they are flared fittings or are they compression type?
 
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Are you certain they are flared fittings or are they compression type?
Single flares by my best estimation from experience. There's some witness marks from the clamping fixture. You'll see a post and I will correct myself if I'm wrong when it comes time to re plumb it. Doesn't look like 1/8g or 1/8bssp like the automated machines I service. Could be a ferrule tho to your point.
 
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This big tuxing allegedly does about a liter a minute so my concerns are rooted in a little bit more of an accelerated experience. I skipped the ring talk because ring flutter and tapered rings gets more technical than this needs to be. Those loops of tubing are what I going to re pipe because the flares are Soooo shoddy.

View attachment 551660
Consider using the right kind of brake line. Their pressure ratings vary. ..but whatever you use, think about that brake line protector I posted in another reply. I think it would serve as a good heat sink. ..you could make your own by twisting aluminum mig welding wire around the right sized dowl or rod. Chuck it up in a drill to speed the process. If you use ½"ø all thread rod to twist .030 aluminum mig wire around, the wire would likeky follow the groove of the threads and would work great for ⅜"ø tube. I think 4043 aluminum would be good wire to use for this.

You'd need the right kind of flaring tool, one that does double flares or you can get compression type fittings that use a 2 piece compression ring. I think the other end of the adapter might be M14 x 1.5. That's what it is on the smaller 4500 psi 2 head compressor.
 
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I have 2 Tuxing 4500 psi compressors, one of them I Ordered on July 14, 2021 and the other Ordered on April 5, 2024, and for longevity of these or any compressor is to keep it cool and not just the head temp but also the oil to help ward off thermal break down, also to use the right oil for the type of compressor you using and the Tuxing twin cylinder is a reciprocating .

TRIAX Kompressor MV 100 / SAE 30 - Full Synthetic, Multi-Vis Air Compressor Oil - Commercial Grade - For Rotary, Vane, Screw, and Reciprocal - High Temp, 20,000 Hour Life, Non-Detergent (1 Gallon)​

Here are some reasons why you should not go over the 4500 psi!

absolutely should not exceed 4500 PSI when working with compressors designed for that limit. Here's why:

  1. Safety Risks: Compressors are engineered with specific pressure limits, and exceeding them can lead to catastrophic failures such as bursting hoses, damaged tanks, or even explosions. The Tuxing twin-cylinder and similar models are specifically rated for 4500 PSI, and pushing beyond this limit compromises their structural integrity.
  2. Component Wear and Tear: Operating beyond the recommended pressure accelerates the degradation of seals, valves, and other components, which can lead to costly repairs or complete compressor failure.
  3. Void of Warranty: If someone exceeds the pressure limit and damages the compressor, it voids the manufacturer's warranty. This means you're on your own for any repairs or replacements.
  4. Regulatory and Legal Concerns: Depending on your jurisdiction, exceeding specified limits on high-pressure equipment might be against safety regulations. This could expose you to liability issues in case of accidents. It would be wise not to go over the 4500 psi.

View attachment 551634
Why do you have 2? ..is the second one because of the few design changes they added? Like the closed loop cooling system and the pre air drier and the coiled air line from compressor head to filter tower (I like that one the best)

I use synthetic Amsoil in mine. It's been working fine. Maybe an oil cooler might not be a bad modification down the road.
I upgraded the water pump and have one for each head. They pump more GPM but more importantly, they have higher head pressure rating, so I can pump the water to a higher elevation after it leaves the head. This way, it can be pumped into a camping shower head and rain back down into the open holding tank. This cools the water down significantly. I haven't done any testing, but it seems to work as good as when I had it trickling down a cooling tower I made from the guts of a wall radiator (for heating).

I took your list of concerns into consideration before I decided to up my pressure on my PRV. I'm pretty sure I covered them all in my various replies to the same concerns posted by others. The only time HPA is an explosive hazard that would cause bodily injury is when a high enough volume of it is able to be released through the right passage, one that the compressed air would cause to instantly expand in a way to be considered explosive. That would be in a tank. These compressors don't have tanks. I'm not advocating to anyone that they should overfill any tanks, bottles or cylinders.

I got mine in 2021 or maybe 22. It's served me well and has way outlasted my Yong Heng compressor. When I got it, I thought it would be the last compressor I would ever need, pressure and volume wise, although I knew it wasn't going to last forever.

Being that it's rated for 4500 PSI, I know it's passed a pressure test of no less than 6750 (1½ x 4500) PSI. I also noticed how much the prices of these compressors has drastically been reduced. A stripped down compressor can be had for under $250. Any part that's going to wear out due to the added 500 PSI will be included. The tank I'll be filling to 5000 PSI is designed to handle that much pressure and has been tested to at least 7500 PSI. There's no way they'd be allowed to sell these things if they are on the verge of failure right out of the box, nor would they be so popular if they did.

As for any warranty goes, mine's been out of warranty for a long time, but even if it was still under warranty, good luck to anybody trying to cash in on it. I think the closest thing you get to a real warranty on this thing is if you bought it from Amazon. You get that one month to return it. Unless you get it between October and December then you'll get to the end of January if you say it was a Christmas gift.

So all things considered, for me, the reward outweighs any risk. As of today, I can burn up four of these compressors before I'm at the price of a 7,000 psi compressor and who knows how long they're going to last.
 
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Why do you have 2? ..is the second one because of the few design changes they added? Like the closed loop cooling system and the pre air drier and the coiled air line from compressor head to filter tower (I like that one the best)

I use synthetic Amsoil in mine. It's been working fine. Maybe an oil cooler might not be a bad modification down the road.
I upgraded the water pump and have one for each head. They pump more GPM but more importantly, they have higher head pressure rating, so I can pump the water to a higher elevation after it leaves the head. This way, it can be pumped into a camping shower head and rain back down into the open holding tank. This cools the water down significantly. I haven't done any testing, but it seems to work as good as when I had it trickling down a cooling tower I made from the guts of a wall radiator (for heating).

I took your list of concerns into consideration before I decided to up my pressure on my PRV. I'm pretty sure I covered them all in my various replies to the same concerns posted by others. The only time HPA is an explosive hazard that would cause bodily injury is when a high enough volume of it is able to be released through the right passage, one that the compressed air would cause to instantly expand in a way to be considered explosive. That would be in a tank. These compressors don't have tanks. I'm not advocating to anyone that they should overfill any tanks, bottles or cylinders.

I got mine in 2021 or maybe 22. It's served me well and has way outlasted my Yong Heng compressor. When I got it, I thought it would be the last compressor I would ever need, pressure and volume wise, although I knew it wasn't going to last forever.

Being that it's rated for 4500 PSI, I know it's passed a pressure test of no less than 6750 (1½ x 4500) PSI. I also noticed how much the prices of these compressors has drastically been reduced. A stripped down compressor can be had for under $250. Any part that's going to wear out due to the added 500 PSI will be included. The tank I'll be filling to 5000 PSI is designed to handle that much pressure and has been tested to at least 7500 PSI. There's no way they'd be allowed to sell these things if they are on the verge of failure right out of the box, nor would they be so popular if they did.

As for any warranty goes, mine's been out of warranty for a long time, but even if it was still under warranty, good luck to anybody trying to cash in on it. I think the closest thing you get to a real warranty on this thing is if you bought it from Amazon. You get that one month to return it. Unless you get it between October and December then you'll get to the end of January if you say it was a Christmas gift.

So all things considered, for me, the reward outweighs any risk. As of today, I can burn up four of these compressors before I'm at the price of a 7,000 psi compressor and who knows how long they're going to last.
I keep a shoebox clone and about 500 cubic feet of stored air because I've had so many smaller compressors fail on me.

Thanks for the heads up on the lines, it would be rated for the pressure and a heat sync mod and brushed stainless if i can, and my flaring kit has double flare buttons (recently built a classic truck).

I'm one of the rare odballs in here that has tools, makes parts, and refuses to return anything.
 
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I keep a shoebox clone and about 500 cubic feet of stored air because I've had so many smaller compressors fail on me.

Thanks for the heads up on the lines, it would be rated for the pressure and a heat sync mod and brushed stainless if i can, and my flaring kit has double flare buttons (recently built a classic truck).

I'm one of the rare odballs in here that has tools, makes parts, and refuses to return anything.
I think it's the stainless that goes to the highest pressure like 16,000 PSI or something in ¼"ø

I'm the same way about tools. And materials. I don't like to borrow tools nor do I lend them out. Nothing sucks more than knowing that you already bought the tool you need but you still don't have it because you lent it out and the jackass never returned it.
 
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I'm aware of burst discs. 1 of the pictured has none but you'd kill a compressor to over fill it. It's the air processing that is a pressure vessel too, gauge threads, hardline piping and flares if so equipped and auto stops that are bad news ime. Don't get me started on how dangerous the qc was on the 3 yonghengs I went thru. Everything from pistons, rods, reeds, electrical and even a cylinder pulled its cap screws out of the cases during operation. My point is more about asking max performance from chinesium.

I'm not saying don't buy them, I'm saying they're only engineered to be safe enough to keep people buying them and do not have the 2x or 5/3 ability that some of the good import bottles do and ive seen how much harder they work 3000-4500 let alone 5k.

I know there's a reason you want the higher psi, and if it's a gun that can handle that fill it may be worth exploring (to me) but if it's just air storage, the extra pressure and wear on the machine isn't worth the stored air imho. I used to sweat keeping all my bottles at max fill, but leaving them a little shy has helped me with direct sunlight heating my stuff up in the field and getting free psi so I just collected a lot more bottles thru trading labor or just taking them off people's hands for free.

I'm going to re plumb my big tuxing eventually because the tubing work is sooo shoddy. I'm just waiting for 2 particular flares to leak or a reed to break.

View attachment 551203
With you showing your nice collection of bottles, I think that will make a nice topic.
 
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