Other Ajustable mounts 20moa

Hi.
I got westhunter adjustable mounts (photo attached)
There is 4 white lines .
How many lines should I go up to get 20moa?

s-l1200 (1).jpg
 
Hi.
I got westhunter adjustable mounts (photo attached)
There is 4 white lines .
How many lines should I go up to get 20moa?

View attachment 558702
I just tilt my scope to where the gun is shooting at my desired zero range. You can do this to retain max adjustability either way or maximize your use of elevation turret. Id read or ask about the nuances of it to decide on what you prefer.
 
I just tilt my scope to where the gun is shooting at my desired zero range. You can do this to retain max adjustability either way or maximize your use of elevation turret. Id read or ask about the nuances of it to decide on what you prefer.
On Pard NS 4k maximum down range of vertical Y axis is maximum 102.
I can't zero my PCP riffle beyond 85 meters so I need 20moa elevation mount.
 
On Pard NS 4k maximum down range of vertical Y axis is maximum 102.
I can't zero my PCP riffle beyond 85 meters so I need 20moa elevation mount.
I understand completely and have been in your shoes. You can mostly bottom out your elevation turret adjustment like I did or leave your adjustments at 0 and tilt the rings to approximately where it's hitting as it is from a bench and tighten down the rings.

I bottomed out my turret so I could shoot as far as possible and dial with my regular scope, but this uses more of the edge of the optics and can cause some distortion. With my digital it doesn't use rings so I'm stuck but have a 30 moa base on that one.

I hope you understand what I mean about moving the rings to where it shoots to save you room to zero(or for the chip) to adjust to where you want to be. Pic related, if it's too much and you want to just try calipers first.

Screenshot_20250428_163526.jpg
 
These rings do not allow you to adjust for moa, they are simply height adjustable rings.

These are the scope rings I suggest you get that will allow you to get whatever MOA you need.

I also recommend these which already have 20MOA built in.
I have eagle vision rings that have a single clamping bolt and pulled off a tilt with it rather effectively. The design and tolerances allowed me to add 10 more moa to my impact prior to getting a 30 moa rail and would likely allow for more. Op seems like he should be able to use those rings for his end goal I think. If its plug and play and no experimentation he's after, I 100% agree with your suggestion too.
 
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Guys, i`m just going to throw this out there.

When you bottom out your elevation, will this allow you to still be in the center of the lenses internally so that you have a crisp clear focus? From what I've seen by bottoming out the elevation with the turrets, i lost quite a bit of clearness due to the centers of the lenses not being in perfect alignment with each other inside the scope. I started noticing that the scope had less light, and was not clear and focused. The only way i could alleviate my problem was to by different (20 30 40 50 MOA) picatinny rails, and buy a scope that had a lot more elevation internally. I would usually end up in a 34mm tubed scope that has much more travel internally so that my lenses stayed crystal clear.

EDIT:
Let me add, that cheap glass is just that, cheap glass. Better glass is cleaner to the edges where as cheap glass is not polished as good, nore do they use good "quality" glass in cheap scopes. If you want clarity, and brightness, that costs a lot more money. When i shop for a scope, i look at the edges of the glass inside the scope, first, then go from there. Turret travel is important for the application you intend to use it for. I could add a lot more here, but i think most of you get the picture. You get what you pay for. Educate yourself first before setting your money on the counter. By more scope than you need, you`ll dial up, then bring it back for the hit!

YMMV
 
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Guys, i`m just going to throw this out there.

When you bottom out your elevation, will this allow you to still be in the center of the lenses internally so that you have a crisp clear focus? From what I've seen by bottoming out the elevation with the turrets, i lost quite a bit of clearness due to the centers of the lenses not being in perfect alignment with each other inside the scope. I started noticing that the scope had less light, and was not clear and focused. The only way i could alleviate my problem was to by different (20 30 40 50 MOA) picatinny rails, and buy a scope that had a lot more elevation internally. I would usually end up in a 34mm tubed scope that has much more travel internally so that my lenses stayed crystal clear.

YMMV
That was an issue. I operate at the bottom of my helix and it isn't an issue for me. My dnt/arken zulus has a travel limit too, but those are camera sensor scopes, so it's not that awful. We are staring at an apple watch screen basically. Either way is recommend you tilt your scope a bunch so you can shoot long range. My digital is on a 30moa rail now and I shoot from 12 yards to 300 right now. I'd at least get a 20.

Out of curiosity what caliber, projectile and velocity are you currently shooting?

For comparison I'm shooting 22 with monster pellets at the bottom tune and 34 slugs at the top tune, all 950 or faster (pellets that fast because of the hammer and reg pressure I run for the slugs). It's been working really well. We have to work around the limits of digital sensors and small scope tubes if that's what we have. I hope you find something you like.
 
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That was an issue. I operate at the bottom of my helix and it isn't an issue for me. My dnt/arken zulus has a travel limit too, but those are camera sensor scopes, so it's not that awful. We are staring at an apple watch screen basically. Either way is recommend you tilt your scope a bunch so you can shoot long range. My digital is on a 30moa rail now and I shoot from 12 yards to 300 right now. I'd at least get a 20.

Out of curiosity what caliber, projectile and velocity are you currently shooting?

For comparison I'm shooting 22 with monster pellets at the bottom tune and 34 slugs at the top tune, all 950 or faster (pellets that fast because of the hammer and reg pressure I run for the slugs). It's been working really well. We have to work around the limits of digital sensors and small scope tubes if that's what we have. I hope you find something you like.
I appreciate what you said here. I can not comment to the air gun situation, i do not shoot airguns hardly at all, other than to eliminate pests in my yard. I was only commenting about scopes as i saw a few members talking about scopes. I shoot rimfire mainly, so the airgun thing isn`t my main theme, per say.
 
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I appreciate what you said here. I can not comment to the air gun situation, i do not shoot airguns hardly at all, other than to eliminate pests in my yard. I was only commenting about scopes as i saw a few members talking about scopes. I shoot rimfire mainly, so the airgun thing isn`t my main theme, per say.
That's how I started. All kidd parts and rws match ammo in a club years ago. It's my first love of shooting. The fx impact made my rimfire more or less obsolete to me because I can shoot 22long ballistics with a better bc silently now. It's so rewarding.

Sorry for mis identifying you in the thread, I'm sneaking posts in as I work. 😁
 
That was an issue. I operate at the bottom of my helix and it isn't an issue for me. My dnt/arken zulus has a travel limit too, but those are camera sensor scopes, so it's not that awful. We are staring at an apple watch screen basically. Either way is recommend you tilt your scope a bunch so you can shoot long range. My digital is on a 30moa rail now and I shoot from 12 yards to 300 right now. I'd at least get a 20.

Out of curiosity what caliber, projectile and velocity are you currently shooting?

For comparison I'm shooting 22 with monster pellets at the bottom tune and 34 slugs at the top tune, all 950 or faster (pellets that fast because of the hammer and reg pressure I run for the slugs). It's been working really well. We have to work around the limits of digital sensors and small scope tubes if that's what we have. I hope you find something you like.
P15. Im shooting 18.13 jsb at 850fps that's why im limited to 85m zero on my Pard