22 Kral NP-03 Power Help!

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LTChip

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May 21, 2022
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AR, United States
Purchased two of these recently - very impressed with both except for one issue....
the power of them seems weak (one is way weaker than the other). I get lots of shots per fill. I don't have access to a chronograph.
I tried adjusting the power knobs but on both rifles, it will not go to the max position (and it needs pliers to turn it at all). It creeps back to the 3/4 power indicator on both rifles.

One of the rifles seems reasonable in power (enough to kill small game) and the other is lobbing them in at 25 yards with very little pop on impact.
Neither seems right though because I am getting A LOT of shots per fill.

Help?!! I am supposed to be hunting iguanas in Puerto Rico and I am not confident these are shooting powerful enough for that at this time.
these are both brand new unmodified NP03 carbines shooting 14.3 and 15.4 gr pellets.
 
Did you adjust the hammer spring at all? There’s a set screw that holds the power adjuster in. It’s a small threaded hole just ahead of the loading port on top of the action. It takes an Allen wrench, don’t remember the size. If that screw is to tight it will make the adjuster hard to turn so back it off a 1/4-1/2 turn and try it. If that doesn’t work back it out to the top of the action and pull the power adjuster out, inspect and lube o-rings.

I think you just need to increase hammer tension. Remove the stock and turn the large flatblade in a half turn at a time until it’s shooting how you want it. It’s hard to set up right without a chrony, but if it’s hitting where you’re aiming and the trajectory isn’t to bad you can make due.
 
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For either
moodyblues said:
Did you adjust the hammer spring at all? There’s a set screw that holds the power adjuster in. It’s a small threaded hole just ahead of the loading port on top of the action. It takes an Allen wrench, don’t remember the size. If that screw is to tight it will make the adjuster hard to turn so back it off a 1/4-1/2 turn and try it. If that doesn’t work back it out to the top of the action and pull the power adjuster out, inspect and lube o-rings.

I think you just need to increase hammer tension. Remove the stock and turn the large flatblade in a half turn at a time until it’s shooting how you want it. It’s hard to set up right without a chrony, but if it’s hitting where you’re aiming and the trajectory isn’t to bad you can make due.
Click to expand...
Thank you!!
this is intuitive to me based on my little knowledge of the mechanics of PCPs.
I understand what you are saying to do and have removed the stock and scope.
I tried the tension slug screw and it did not change the power knob binding issue.
I will remove and inspect/lube the o-rings
I will increase hammer tension - I see how to do that.
QUESTION = Can these two things (removing the power adjuster and tuning the hammer spring) be done without bleeding or should I bleed the system?
 
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ok I know have the hammer spings about 1/2 turn from where they would not cock the hammer....backed them off from there.
I have worked the power adjusters back and forth and they are ok now I think - although 100% does not point all the way to the max on the slotted indicator on the opposite side of the action.

Both rifles sound more powerful. Without a Chron I will just do some field tests shooting mangoes before any attempts on iguanas.
 
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Trucker
I agree, they’re set up good for 22cal small game hunting usually about 30fpe. You have to have some work done to get them to their potential. Thammer ported my action and built me a larger power adjuster for my Breaker. It can do 43 ft/lbs now, even though it can it’s usually tuned to around 35fpe or so. They really are good guns though, I’ve got 3.
 
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Got them both shooting ok now.
One dead iguana is a testament to my hamhanded tuning which is actually a testament to all of your help!!!
I am for sure interested in pumping them up to full potential - will be in touch with thammer when he gets more free time.
I am down for sending the guns but also would love just swapping in some performance parts - wider ports or stronger springs etc.
I still have to study how all the internals work but some YouTube vids have helped me with the basics so my transition from powder guns to compressed ier guns understandings is on the way.
I really thank all who have helped so far!!
 
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No swapping of ports, everything has to be opened up via drill. I port everything on mine, but if you want to make a lot of power then you’ll have to have a larger power adjuster, it’s the bottleneck. Troy makes a new one out of a bolt, and opens the action to accept it. You can do your barrel, valve endcap and open the power adjuster a small amount pretty easy. You’ll also need to play with some hammer springs probably, I just ordered a spring assortment and started trying combination. The gun Troy worked on for me went from 30fpe to 43Fpe.
 
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yup - we are shooting!!
I took one iguana - hit it behind the neck so expected it to run off but it sat there and bled out - not sure that was the best because all the blood freaked out by 10-year-old who thinks shooting them is "mean" now - so I am giving it a couple of days before we go hunting again but he has a great time shooting targets, water-balloons, rotten mangos and the like. thanks again to all to get us shooting. I will be want to tune these up for more power for sure as I still prefer power over shot-count - hopefully i can get to where I want without drilling any internals. I'll look to a more powerful hammer spring......question - if the stock spring can be tightened to the point of not being able to c0ck the hammer- would a more aggressive spring add any power? I am still not really understanding the affect of this spring on the c0cking of the hammer/locking of the sear. I see where more force on the valve would potentially open it quicker, wider (and for longer?) - thereby letting more air through...just don't get why tightening the pre-tension interferes with the trigger sear locking.
 
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First you have to get a chronograph before you start switching out springs. You’ll have no clue what affect your changes have without one. The wrong spring can make you gun sound more powerful by just wasting air but not gaining any fps.
Your spring is reaching coil bind and not allowing the hammer to go far enough to snag the sear (it’s actually called a snag sear). A stiffer spring will raise your velocity to a point. You’ll reach maximum velocity with porting and pressure, you have to go bigger on one or both to raise your max velocity.
I like running short stiff springs in my guns I’m not maxing out the power. It throws the hammer which is an easy way to reduce hammer bounce which kills your air. I’ve killed squirrels at up to 71 yards and my ten year old killed one at 62 so I’m still able to make plenty of power with that setup.
 
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