A quite common seen "issue" in the FX triggers is that it is not resetting the trigger after engaging the first stage. After half a year of use the trigger of my Crown started to have this issue and I didn't like it so it had to be fixed. After trying some things I think I found the fix for it. The following is directly applicable for the Crown, other similar FX trigger might have a slightly different division of the screws in the trigger but function the same.
First disconnect the air source and bleed the plenum (regulated chamber), I also took the barrel out but that was just for cleaning.
Then remove the trigger assembly with a 2 mm hex key.
There are 5 little bolts/screws in the trigger assembly:
The screw are used for the following:
First disconnect the air source and bleed the plenum (regulated chamber), I also took the barrel out but that was just for cleaning.
Then remove the trigger assembly with a 2 mm hex key.
There are 5 little bolts/screws in the trigger assembly:
The screw are used for the following:
- The first screw is for the second stage assembly (spring loaded ball bearing). This screw provides the weight and length of your second stage, screw in to decreas the second stage length and unscrew to increase the length. If you don't feel a second stage this screw needs to be screwed in, this will also prevent an unpredictable trigger.
- The second screw is used to engage the safety. If you can still shoot despite of having the safety on this screw needs to be screwed in, if you can't get the safety activated this screw needs to be unscrewed a little,
- The third/middle screw is to hold the spring in place which is for the weight of the first stage of the trigger and to tip the sear up when the guns is being cocked to make it ready to engage. This screw can't be used to increase first stage weight but the spring under the trigger can be shortened to decrease the weight. Shorten it too much and the trigger won't reset anymore!!!!
- The 4th one is to fix the trigger assembly to the trigger roll.
- The 5th screw is to change the length of the first stage, unscrew to increase the length, screw it in to decrease the length.
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After removing the trigger assembly remove the other trigger parts by pushing out the 2 mm pins that are used to hold them in place.
This is how the trigger is placed inside the breech:
The first thing I tried was polishing the sides of the trigger roll but that didn't solve the issue. After playing with the parts a little I felt that the sear was scraping over the trigger roll so I decided to polish that contact surface depicted by the red arrow below.
To do this I used my Fallkniven CC4 ceramic sharpening stone (very fine grit) and my leather strop with diamond paste (6 micron). The one thing to remember here is that the edges of the sear and the trigger roll must remain 90 degrees and sharp!!!!!! If you remove the sharp edge there is a chance that the trigger won't function anymore in the way it should be!
By dragging and rolling at the same time with the trigger roll the sear edge will remain in tact and no flat spots will be sanded into the trigger roll. The sear you can just rock back and forth on a slow pace to see exactly what you're doing (for example slightly tilting it).
It is a bit hard to see in this photo but the polished edge of the trigger roll reflects the imperfections of the table it's laying on. After this insert the trigger roll and the sear catch back into the trigger housing in the breech with the 2 mm pins. Now carefully apply some high quality grease (with a not too high viscosity, so no tar like substance
) on the polished parts of the trigger assembly. I used Molykote Multilub for this, just because it's works great and is easily available where I live.
And at last put the trigger assembly back onto the trigger roll and check if the trigger still is adjusted to your liking. If not than adjust accordingly. Testing the trigger can be done by cocking the gun, relax the cocking arm up to the point you don't feel the spring tension anymore but keep your fingers very close to it to catch it when you engage the trigger. If you keep the cocking arm cocked the trigger will always reset because you tip the rear of the sear upwards which increases the force on the return spring and thus you can't test the trigger properly in this way.
And don't forget to clean all the excess/previous grease of the trigger parts while their out of the breech
If you have any remarks please comment and I will look into it
Thanks very much!! 
I fixed the safety with the second crew. 
