• *The discussion of the creation, fabrication, or modification of airgun moderators is prohibited. The discussion of any "adapters" used to convert an airgun moderator to a firearm silencer will result in immediate termination of the account.*

Open Source Moderator Design

Hi everyone;

Those who frequent this section of the site are mostly aware that I've been working on design and implementation of a CF (carbon fiber) and PETG 3d printed moderator for about a year now.

The design is complete. The testers are happy. The device works and has been tested to about 80 foot pounds. It is a good moderator. It functions as a suppressor and as an air stripper and testers are reporting better accuracy with the device installed than without. It could be quieter but that would add cost and or degrade accuracy. It is a good compromise that stands on it's own beside the best names in the business.

It is available in .17, .20, .22, and .25 calibers and lengths between 110mm and 170mm. It is 30mm in diameter. The moderator features a helicoil insert in the plastic attachment. Getting that helicoil to be concentric in and parallel to the axis of the attachment and then getting attachment to do the same in the tube required the design of a number of (also printed) tools. I can now say that I can confidently build devices which do not clip when mounted on a barrel whose threading and bore are concentric and parallel even in runs as long as 170mm, possibly more. I can do that without additional machine shop tools. All the tools are also printed except the taps used and the metal parts of any jigs needed. The design and the process lend themselves to lost plastic casting. The tube could easily be replaced by a metal tube and a much more robust device then produced and costs could still be kept very, very low. That is a topic for a different forum as that product would certainly be NFA regulated. In other words the process itself is material agnostic and the device can be built with hand tools.

I have worked out the costs for all parts and materials (using FDM and plastics) and can build these moderators at costs which will allow me to sell them in quantity for prices between $45.00 and $60.00 shipped anywhere in CONUS. At that price I double my costs. That goes to labor and covers about 2 hours of labor per unit, possibly slightly less. A guy running two printers could produce enough parts for about three moderators per eight hour shift which he could also assemble. One person could easily run six printers in a production environment and produce perhaps ten units per man day.

I have no intention of doing that. I'll make a few now and then and sell them when my time permits. I have run afoul of Ebay (someone has complained (AKA shot himself in the foot)) and they have decided that airgun moderators violate their firearms policy They don't. You can find all sorts of airguns and airgun accessories including silencers and moderators with a simple search but once someone complains, good luck ever talking to a human without sending them a certified, notarized, registered letter ... in process.

Here are pictures of the final product as it stands today.

Mike Erskine
Systems Engineer

IMG_20230315_211240155.jpg
IMG_20230315_211242429.jpg
IMG_20230315_211249722.jpg
IMG_20230320_193911284.jpg
IMG_20230320_193917117.jpg
IMG_20230320_193930241.jpg
IMG_20230320_193945274.jpg
IMG_20230320_193952292.jpg
IMG_20230320_193958422.jpg
IMG_20230320_194010968.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mass printing with filament is slow, you better try LCD resin, and there are materials as well from $40/liter to $300/liter.
I have tried couple brands in a mid price range and I am also mixing some my own recipes (my own design mechanical prototypes).
For mass production prints forget about FDM.
SLS - SLM - DMP - DMLS
Yeah, tough to amortize the cost of those high end printers, besides they aren't a so much faster and materials cost two to ten times as much by weight... but yeah... they do beautiful work. One might be in my future if I decide to print exposed parts on it... Price point would have to go up and production volume would also.
 
Last edited:
Yes, not easy with resins as well.
A friend sons entire party wanted (asked me several times and offered me nice $) me to print for them some dice sets, probably several hundred pieces... after some tinkering I refused.
Printing with LCD is much faster, but the post processing = pre-washing - washing in IPA - drying - UV curing ... I told them c'mon that is several days full time job... a nice paid job but not for me 63 years/o.
Couple of my prototypes - stainless and multy fused plastic 3d printed parts - I outsourced to shapeways.
Many of our accessory or plastic parts on airguns are all SLS or MJF, and I have seen getting popular in EU and UK.
 
Now I'm needing someone to take you up on the offer so I can get one.
I am talking to one of the guys who has five printers so we might have more than one source soon. Even if he jumps on it right away he will need to order materials and tool up. That is going to take him a while. That said, guys, don't PM me asking for moderators. I can't deliver them right now. I am out of tubing and the six meters I have ordered are in transit. They won't be here till 3 April.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HubenK1Sniper92
Nice work @OldSpook! If I wasn’t so lazy I would help make them but I’m too lazy! 🤣


I spent good amount of time to print the entire thing in place, no fancy metal thread. Guess I can slip a carbon tube on the outside but that’s too much work too! Good luck on your moderators.
I printed some in one piece but they were a bit heavy when strong enough and a bit weak when made lighter. I've seen pictures of yours and you do very nice work (better than I do).
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: qball
I have decided to release into the public domain the STL files for the moderators I have designed. These STL files (as mentioned elsewhere) might be used to create molds used in lost plastic casting. If you want to use these files to build moderators on FDM printers, by all means, do that, more over if you want help, advice, or just encouragement doing that be encouraged to contact me via PM on this forum or by email or phone if you can find those contacts and I will be very happy to provide it. I encourage anyone who wants to use these files and my advice to augment their income to do so. I'll help if I can. Here you go.

View attachment 30x28.zip

I will be adding to this thread answers to any questions I receive regarding the use of those files. ;)

I am going to write a PDF which talks about the build process and explains the contents of the attached file. It will take a couple of days but should be up by midweek. I will attach it at the bottom of this thread when I have it done.
 
Last edited:
In the zip file linked in the post above you will find STL files which look like this:

endcap.png

This is an endcap. It inserts into the moderator tube 30mm x 28mm at the muzzle end of the moderator. There are 4 of them each is marked with a caliber.

attach.png

This is an attachment cap. This part is thread specific. Each of them is marked with "AIRGUN ONLY". This part has a hollow cup at the bottom. The hollow cup is an expansion chamber that allows the escaping compressed air to expand and be distributed more evenly across the baffles. The next part inserts into that expansion chamber and functions to break up and strip off the compressed air as it exits the muzzle of the airgun. It also normalizes the air pressure across the surface of the tesla valves (baffles).

buffer.png

This is the buffer/stripper. This part inserts into the attachment cap and strips off the compressed air as it exits the muzzle of the rifle and normalizes that pressure across the tesla valve baffles.

tesla-valve.png

These are the tesla valves (baffles) which redirect the air flow back upon itself. They consist of two cones one above the other. The compressed air builds pressure on the top cone and vents downward toward the walls of the baffle. It then passes into the chamber between the two cones and gets redirected backwards and up into the air flow venting through the pellet path. THE PELLET HAS ALREADY PASSED THAT POINT when the air begins flowing against itself.

Other types of baffles could be used to replace the valves included in these files. The critical value is the height of the wall on the valve as valves stack one upon the other. Adequate moderation is obtained with 3 to 5 valves. Good moderation is obtained with 6 or 7 valves and more than eight valves is probably overkill except in critical applications where silence is more important than moderator length.

These files are designed to be used with ANY tubing which is 28mm inside diameter. I have used PVC just to see if it would work. Works fine. You can print them and glue them inside carbon fiber using West System epoxy and you will have a moderator that should handle up to perhaps a hundred foot pounds although that would likely be pushing the edge of the envelope pretty hard. You should expect a high failure rate with that construction method above 70 foot pounds.

You could also use these files in lost plastic casting, a form of lost wax casting which uses your printed part to make a mold and then replaces the plastic with metal. The resulting parts could be made of bronze, brass, aluminum, or even zinc. You could use a brass or copper tube instead of a carbon fiber tube and cut threads into the parts. That would let you assemble an all metal moderator if such was your application. I'd recommend that for high power applications.

These parts can be scaled in your slicer ;) So you could theoretically make a moderator of any diameter and/or length. I like Prusa slicer. The taller tesla valve is nearly optimal and in performance critical applications you should scale it in in X, Y, and Z by the same percentages. That will limit the various dimensions you can achieve but not that badly. There is a readme file which explains how to calculate length given the other dimensions. You should be able to figure that out without a lot of help.
 
Last edited:
I will check that "tesla valve". With resin I may make a monocore
I look forward to seeing your results those resin printers do such a nice job. If you want to really optimize that valve the optimal angle for the cones is 60° from horizontal (30 degrees from a plumb line through the center. I have held it to about 45° in that implementation because I can get more valves in less space. You can get that 60 degrees by expanding the stl file in the Z axis by a third. If the resulting gcode is not satisfactory let me know.

We have just discovered something else about those Tesla Valves. The distance the pressure wave at the muzzle has to travel to get back to the bore line decreases with a decrease in the angle of the cone. A shorter cone can allow the pressure wave to complete the path back to the bore before the pellet passes through the second cone. If that is happening you will observe a higher ES/SD than you observe when the moderator is not mounted on the rifle. Shorter cones are more likely to exhibit this problem.

I really need to spend some time running simulations of these baffles in blender.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: AirGunShooter
May try this .... on my Halot One Resin
Not sure what resins you have tried so far, but I can suggest?
I got to my own recipes and sometimes I am mixing 2-3 resins even different brands (medium $ cost) to get to properties I want in my application. But again there are other readily available options for 4-5 times the costs, I did not reach that $$ level yet.
For this scenario I would do 4 parts Hard Tough + 1 part Flexible, if you want more abs like go with 3:1.
 
  • Like
Reactions: qball