any body use this product ? it is a natural linseed oil and wax finish with no chinese driers or petroleum products . I want to improve my TX200 stock finish wood grain .
Tried and true oil finish ?
- Thread starter beerthief
- Start date
Hi beerthief,
I’ve posted in this resources forum a how to strip your stock and finish with Tru-Oil.
I’ve done 3 stocks with Tru-Oil - all have come out great.
Here is my Cayden stock - before and after
-Ed
I’ve posted in this resources forum a how to strip your stock and finish with Tru-Oil.
I’ve done 3 stocks with Tru-Oil - all have come out great.
Here is my Cayden stock - before and after
-Ed
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The only issue I had with Tru-Oil was my fault. I was cleaning my barrel with the action still in the stock, and my patch was too wet and the solvent (M-Pro 7 Cleaner) squeezed out and ran down onto the stock. I wiped it off the sides but missed a droplet that stuck to the bottom of the stock. The next day I noticed the droplet location stripped off the Tru-Oil. It was easy enough to build that area back up and feather it in though. Now I know better.
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Check the vid out in the 2ed post hete
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/refinishing-a-birch-stock.7000677/
Using dyes and pigments could help pop out some stuff ..
Anyway maybe another angle to look in to on your wood refinishing.
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/refinishing-a-birch-stock.7000677/
Using dyes and pigments could help pop out some stuff ..
Anyway maybe another angle to look in to on your wood refinishing.
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Can you provide a link as in searching I am not finding the information. Probably not putting in the right search terms.
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Hi Joe,
I should have made my own thread for these instructions, instead of making them a post in another persons thread on the topic…
Here it is:
Post in thread 'Refinishing JTS Airacuda Standard stock?'
https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/refinishing-jts-airacuda-standard-stock.1287920/post-1471702
-Ed
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The absolute best is boiled linseed oil. It makes the best lasting finish and when you get a scratch you can use a little heat and restain. That being said the process is a nightmare. You sand down to the smoothest nicest finish you can and then let it hang for at least a week. Then you do it again....and again each time using at least 000 steel wool or finer if you can find it. After 4 or 5 coats you let it sit. I let min set for 3 weeks to absorb completely and then wipe down with a lint free rag. I only do this for highly damaged Winchester model 64 rifles or military surplus who have such bad finish it degrades the value. If u were making a custom stock with hand checkering I'd do that too. My airguns generally get min wax and ultrafine steel wool done over every two or three days. Basically as soon as it's not sticky to touch. The boiled linseed allows you to touch up areas very easy and looks like new. The latex stuff or varnish looks great for awhile but your kind of just using it until you need to do the whole rifle again. Hope this helps.
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Refinishing gun stocks seems to have very different levels of intensity and labor, depending on individual preferences. I only finished one ( FX Royale .22, picture attached in this thread ) stock, and after watching several YouTube instructional videos and reading various AGN posts, I decided beforehand how much work I wanted to put into the project. I took some short cuts, but on purpose.
I did not strip the original FX Royale walnut coat first but just sanded, applied 8/10 coats of True Oil between sanding the finishes, used 000 steel wool and applied another ‘final final’ coat of True Oil and called it good. Not being critical of stripping first, I just consciously decided to skip that step and just start with sanding first before I started.
My point really is that you can decide how much work or labor and materials you want to use ahead of time based on your individual expectations. I don’t need the perfect looking stock, just one that I am happy with when I finish. The good news is that there are many instructional posts and step by step videos for someone to decide how they want to finish their stock.
I will say, it was one of the more enjoyable projects I have done that gave me a sense of complete satisfaction when I was finished.
I did not strip the original FX Royale walnut coat first but just sanded, applied 8/10 coats of True Oil between sanding the finishes, used 000 steel wool and applied another ‘final final’ coat of True Oil and called it good. Not being critical of stripping first, I just consciously decided to skip that step and just start with sanding first before I started.
My point really is that you can decide how much work or labor and materials you want to use ahead of time based on your individual expectations. I don’t need the perfect looking stock, just one that I am happy with when I finish. The good news is that there are many instructional posts and step by step videos for someone to decide how they want to finish their stock.
I will say, it was one of the more enjoyable projects I have done that gave me a sense of complete satisfaction when I was finished.
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Yes I've used it on maybe five stocks, and one guitar.
The first time I used it was if my memory is correct, was in the seventies. It seems that I ordered it out of a Herters catalogue, but I'm not sure.
I had a bit of trouble with my last stock being a bit more challenging than I remember, so I'm not sure that the formula hasn't changed iver the years, but the end result was the same.
My 71 Sheridan is one of my older Tru-Oil finishes, and the 71 Sheridan "Dumpster Queen" project is my latest. They are pictured on the bottom.
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I'm curious about the final sheen with Tru-Oil. The Cayden shown above is very matte, while the others are glossy. Is that just a final sanding choice?
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TN,
In looking at some True Oil YouTube videos, I recall that the more coats you apply can/will result in a more glossy finish. But, I think you can sand with a 400-600 grit fine sandpaper; or a 000/0000 steel wool to reduce the gloss.
In my case with the FX Royale, I purposely wanted a high gloss finish. But, I like both finishes also. It was my first experiment in refinishing stocks.
I am a neophyte in this area, so maybe EPG ( Ed) or others can comment. I would like to know also.
Tom
In looking at some True Oil YouTube videos, I recall that the more coats you apply can/will result in a more glossy finish. But, I think you can sand with a 400-600 grit fine sandpaper; or a 000/0000 steel wool to reduce the gloss.
In my case with the FX Royale, I purposely wanted a high gloss finish. But, I like both finishes also. It was my first experiment in refinishing stocks.
I am a neophyte in this area, so maybe EPG ( Ed) or others can comment. I would like to know also.
Tom
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Yep, its simply the more coats of Tru-Oil applied, the glossier the final result - it builds.
To reduce the sheen 0000 steel wool does it easily and quickly.
-Ed
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