Which mould for casting slugs for the Huben GK1 .25(3)?

Do you know what the hardness of you lead is after you mixed the alloys together I'd guess 7.5 or 8 BHN
and to let you know the Hardball lead will age harden over the next month and continue to get harder as
time goes on , the way to stop the this is to use equal parts of tin and antimony like what's in the Lyman #2
and then add lots of pure to get the hardness down and get the tin and antimony down to 2 or 3 %
 
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Do you know what the hardness of you lead is after you mixed the alloys together I'd guess 7.5 or 8 BHN
and to let you know the Hardball lead will age harden over the next month and continue to get harder as
time goes on , the way to stop the this is to use equal parts of tin and antimony like what's in the Lyman #2
and then add lots of pure to get the hardness down and get the tin and antimony down to 2 or 3 %
I have not done a hardness test, simply added lead to make it a 3 to 1 mix, 1 hardball to 3 lead to reduce the hardness. Seems to work for this batch but need a more structured process to finalize more consistent results. The revision so far works both in the K1 and GK1 .25.
 
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Have you tried straight lead?
According to Greg K on YouTube, straight lead will leave deposits that will require much more frequent cleaning. As you probably know, the K1 and GK1 are not the easiest barrels to clean. He suggests some level of hardness to extend cleaning cycles. Have not tried straight lead but would like to hear from those that have.
 
I don't know what percentages to use but from my limited casting experience. Joining the Cast Bullet Association, joining their forum might give you access to some of the greatest minds in casting. A full explanation of your needs including moulds, alloys, diameters, sizing, and the nature of difficulty cleaning those barrels should be included in your question. You should get an answer fast. The internet can yield so much. This might help you strike a golden alloy to use in the K1 and GK 1. Be Well Brother, Bandito.
 
the 2 different leads mentioned a few posts ago with the Hardball that has a BHN of 16 and the pure lead that is a 5 BHN.
So first you need your finished BHN that you want in this case I used 8 BHN that is the middle number pictured below then
you have the 2 different leads the hardball is a 16 in the left corner and the pure lead at 5 thats in the bottom left corner
you just subtract the smaller number from the larger number this will give you the ratio of lead to use to achieve your
lead hardness that you want. Using this formula you get 3 parts Hardball lead to 8 parts of the pure

IMG_6847.jpg
 
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I was just curious. My thinking here, if any possible rough spots are polished they may not accumulate lead as fast as a non polished bore. If it is slick already don't do it. The bores on our muzzleloaders were slick from all the patches down the bore in a round ball gun. Those were some slick bores. You got no lead fowling from a patched RB. Then you cleaned the powder fouling with more patches. That polished the bore. See why I gravitated toward pellet guns? Be Well Brothers, B.
 
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