Air Arms Utah Airguns Pyramyd FX Airguns Daystate Airmaks Airguns Diana Airgun Depot Edgun West Palm Beach Airguns DonnyFL
Saber Tactical Optisan Side-Shot Scope Cam NE Airguns Baker Airguns AGS Topgun Airguns Predator International The Pellet Shop Huben Airguns Huma-Air Shooting Supplies Hurricane Luftvapen AEA Precision Airguns H&N Impulse Air ZAN Projectiles Hawke Optics Kraford and Lypt Airforce Protect Your Nuts Stud Mag Loader RX Target Systems Sports Match Scope Mount Specialists Altaros Slugs Banner CTA Thomas Air Performance Air Rifles Hatsan USA Georgia Air Guns SPAW Minor Skout Airguns RAW - Rapid Air Works Nielsen Specialty Ammo Patch Worm Weihrauch Sport Talon Tunes Airgun-Revisions JTS PARD ST7 PPP RTI

FX  FX DRS Trigger Malfunction

I had a slight malfunction with my DRS yesterday. I was shooting a rat and had forgot to take off the safety. I squeezed the trigger and nothing happened, but when I released the safety, the gun went off! Fortunately, it was pointed safely down range. Surprisingly, I still hit the rat!

I have a video of the shot, and if you listen closely to the audio, you can hear a slight click just before the gun fires, this was when I squeezed the trigger. Apparently, the hammer was released by the trigger mechanism, but the safety prevented it from moving, until I released the safety and then it went off! I definately need to make some adjustments to the trigger and see if I can get this fixed!

I didn't post the video here because it's a video of the rat being shot and this isn't the place for hunting videos! If allowed, I can post it so you can hear and see what I'm talking about.

Accidentally slugged my barrel. What do I do with the data?

On my gun, I found the NSA 17.5gr 0.2165 slugs to be quite accurate at 900 FPS muzzle velocity. Last night, I shot at the bottom of a half gallon milk jug full of water from 31 meters away to see if I could blow it out. It didn't blow out but it caught the slug inside. Slug velocity on impact would have been about 800 FPS.

I measured the grooves on the slug (which would be the lands in the barrel) to be 0.211" and the lands (groove on the barrel) at 0.216". The slug started out supposedly at 0.2165" but my caliper is not precise to the 10,000th of a inch. This measurement is when I put the slug on the table and put the calipers flat on the table to measure from as low as I can. If I measure closer to the middle of the rifling marks, I get a much bigger measurement of 0.219". I think this maybe because the sides of the slug has started to bow out when it hit the water making the middle part wider than the base. I also think that the starting diameter of the slug is a smidge smaller than the grooves in the barrel. I've measure multiple times and even used a magnifying glass to read the vernier caliper and this is as accurate as I can read it without any specialized measuring instruments.

Having said all that, what do I do with this data. As I said, I find the NSA 17.5gr 0.2165 slugs to be accurate in my gun. But how can I use this data when selecting other slugs in the future?

The hollow point hole went from 2.13mm to 2.82mm as pictured. It's not a mushrooming effect as I think the walls are a bit too thick for the velocities I'm shooting these slugs at. I think it should be ok for penetration at longer distances.

20240721_084623.jpg


20240721_023556.jpg

How can I know that there is not a MIL/MOA mismatch between the reticle and the adjuster before buying?

Hi all,

I hope you're doing well.
This is basically a follow-up post to the one I made last night.

I think I found a scope I like for my Marauder.

I think the only thing I need to make sure is that it does not have the MIL/MOA mismatch that I often see mentioned in this forum.

How can I tell? The one I am looking at is in the photo attached here. I'm going to be honest, one of the reasons I am debating on Amazon is because I can return it if I don't like it.

I also am curious if you personally prefer MIL or MOA for hunting small and upland game.

Thank you very much!

1721539023789.png

Airforce  Air Force Condor review, a case report in how "utilitarian" can be a positive.

I bought an Air Force Condor on their 4th of July sale, paying $395 for a 24inch barreled .20. Yes, in 2024 I bought an Airforce Condor, a gun that has mostly been unchanged since 2004 when it was first produced. And yes, that makes it a 20 year old design, and yet somehow it offers some features and aspects that are only found in the Airforce line of guns.

I'm not going to try to make a case for the Airforce guns being the "best" gun currently available. Many of the advancements made in airguns in the last 20 years are exactly that, advancements. But I am planning on periodically sharing the process of getting to know my new gun, and my opinions and impressions and thoughts as I do so. Much of what I learn and am going to share can be found scattered throughout the internet, representing 20 years worth of guys that have "been there, done that." So I understand that possibly none of this will be "breaking news."

So why did I buy a gun that is arguably outdated and considered by many to be "less than"? Simple answer is because it was a good enough deal to finally push me over the edge to satisfy the curiosity I've had about the gun since I got into airguns around 2010. More complicated answer is because I wanted to, which opens up the can of worms about how all of these airguns we own and shoot and enjoy and spend so much time and money on are wants, not needs.

From a financial standpoint, my new on-sale Condor was only slightly more than the going rate of buying a Lothar blank and having it machined to fit a gun. But for that $395 I got the whole gun, WITH a Lothar barrel, not JUST the barrel.

So why a .20, well, back to wants and needs. It's simply my favorite caliber and that's the caliber I wanted. In the interest of purchase justification, this Condor will allow me to revisit the .20/25.4gr experiment I was working on a while back. That was .22 Monster RDs sized down to .20. None of my other .20s could push them very fast. I will also be able to see how the .20/18.9gr slugs do at faster speeds. I've shot A LOT of those 18.9s @ 870-925 and they're really dang good there, so I'm curious to see how they are at even faster speeds.

And that's where the Condor, even for a 20 year old design, still has the upper hand on many of the more recently released airgun designs: power. As I was debating the decision to buy this gun I did some internet searching, and like I said before, found a veritable plethora of info. In all that I stumbled on a video of Ton Jones shooting a .25 and getting 1200fps with 34grain pellets, in a stock Condor. That is some serious power! Many of the airguns used at the top levels of competition aren't that powerful. And of course that much speed for that particular pellet is simply silly, as that's not where they shine anyway, but the fact that it could push them that fast was somewhat surprising to me. And THEN he swapped a smaller transfer port into the gun and was still getting 1000fps with that same .25/34grain. And this was on pressures from 3000 down to 2000, which is much easier to attain that than the big 250+ bar fill guns so common today.


So the gun arrived late yesterday evening. First order of business was to pull the barrel and figure out what I had. Of course the brown/red cosmolene needed removed first. Pushed a couple pellets through and figured out that the first 2.5 or so inches where the 16mm blank is turned down so much had a much larger bore than the rest of the barrel. Turning them down opens them up. So there was the same feel as a choke right at the point the barrel OD is the full 16mm. Then steady resistance, than the choke, and it's a heck of a choke. So all the important features of a barrel are there, gradual increase of tightness till the choke, it's just currently in exaggerated steps. And that's fine, I can work with that. Some focused polished with aggressive abrasives at a later date can smooth all that up to make it somewhat tapered from breech to muzzle. I was also surprised to find more shallow grooves/less aggressive lands than what I consider normal for a 12 groove Lothar barrel, and that's probably a good thing.

Barrel is fixed in a method I've not seen before. For years the typical airgun configuration was barrels glued into the breech. That has changed to be lots of barrels held in the breech block by set screws, with a few outliers of barrels threaded into the receivers. BUT the Airforce guns are neither. Yes there are set screws, but they're not at the breech block like in so many guns. Instead, they are threaded into the side of the gun's space-age looking frame and into collars that are grub screwed to the barrel. So two grub screws through the the side of the gun, into those collars on the barrel, and then three more grub screws along the bottom of the frame (one of which also holds the frame endcap), and finally a grub screw on the top of the frame that holds the endcap for the frame, which is itself another collar helping center the barrel. Ie the barrel is fixed to the gun in the middle, not at the rear/breech like in most other designs.

There are dovetail rails along the top and bottom of the length of the frame, not just where the scope would mount. So I'm recycling a dovetail to picatinny adaptor on the forearm to create a place to mount a bipod.

And I'm currently using a longer (also recycled)) dovetail to pic adaptor for the scope. @fderry was kind enough to send me some PMs with helpful tips and tricks and he suggested a longer dovetail to pic adaptor for the scope to aid in the notorious frame flex for which these guns have a reputation. So I've got a $16 10 inch one of those on order from Amazon.

The first thing I did (and I'm not so sure it didn't come out of the box this way) was snap the head off the sad little 4-40 plastic screw in the power wheel. Easy enough, trip to ACE hardware and a tiny little pan head screw. The OD of the head was slightly too big for the place it needs to live so I reduced it just enough to fit on the gap. That screw serves as the indicator for where the gun is at on the hammer spring preload.

As for the hammer spring, I didn't measure it but it's probably 3/4 of an inch across and 4 inches long. It's the hammer spring that all other hammer springs want to grow up and be like. It has a little sticker taped to one of the coils and the sticker is labeled "spring dampener." I suppose that big spring could have some twang without something to kill vibrations.

Knowing that I'd want to tinker, I included what Airforce calls their Ring Loc kit in my order. It's basically as simple as a set of transfer ports of various sizes. And yes, the tps can be swapped without degassing or even removing the bottle, very easy. $50 well spent, more on that in a minute.

I've read all about spin loc versus not spin loc tanks with these Airforce guns, and finally learned what that means. The spin loc is a little ring that rotates in the rear of the gun to allow bottle attachment without having to spin the bottle onto fixed threads in the gun frame. Airforce includes a wrench specifically for this. I understand early guns didn't have gauges or fill ports (cuz they would have hit the frame when threaded on) but the current production guns DO have gauges and fill ports (foster), because of the spin loc system.

For some of the negatives.....there are some plastic parts that I'd really have preferred to have be metal. Namely the power wheel, and the collar next to it, as well as the sliding breech cover. The biggest negative ive encountered so far was that the auto-safety quit functioning around shot 50. And it created a somewhat dangerous situation. I was loaded and cocked and the safety would not slide forward to disengage to allow me to fire the shot. And the gun can also not be de-cocked when the safety is on. So I removed the air bottle (spin Loc is pretty sweet) and headed back to the gunroom to tear down the trigger.

The trigger components were finished better than I expected, no deep machining marks like I've seen on sears in much more expensive airguns. It took me a lot longer than it should have to get the gun shootable, as I kept arriving at the same point with each rebuild, non-functional safety, which means non-functional gun with how it's designed. I finally decided to just omit the auto-safety and was back to shooting within 10 minutes. I was rewarded with a less frustrating experience, since the auto-safety was annoying even when it was functional for those first few shots, but also a much better feeling trigger without those auto-safety components in there.

Before even taking a shot I concluded that the transfer port that came in the gun was MUCH too big for a .20. The sizes included in the ring loc are: .232, .166, .145, .123 and an .070. Airforce says the 0.07 is meant to be customized to a preferred size, but I decided to shoot with it as-is. 0.166 is what came installed in the gun.

Being unregulated, we're hunting for the middle of the bell curve of fps, and that seemed to be mostly 2400-1900, depending on hammer tension. So most of these fps ranges were what the gun produces around 2000-2100psi.

With the 0.070 transfer port, and the .20/13.73, I saw 590fps with no hammer spring preload dialed in, and 680 with max hammer spring preload. So a range of about 10.5-14fpe. Gun was nearly silent here, just a click.

With the 0.123 transfer port, I was seeing 980fps with the .20/13.73 with no hammer spring preload dialed in, and up to 960fos with the .20/18.9 with max hammer spring preload. So a range of about 29-39fpe.

With the 0.145 transfer port I was too fast for either JSB pellet, and was hitting 1024fps with what I'm calling 10/10 on the power wheel, with the .20/18.9 NSA. So about 44fpe.

(10/10 on the power wheel is referencing 10 on both the horizontal and vertical scale. It goes up to I think 12 on the horizontal scale. The horizontal seems more of a macro adjustment, and the vertical scale a micro adjustment. So with the 0.145 tp, there'd be even more than 44fpe available from the .20/18.9).

I didn't even try the 0.166 or 0.232 and don't think I'll need to with the .20 barrel.

As for accuracy, it was trying to storm while I was shooting so the wind was crazy. It was blowing pellet tin lids off my table and I had to have my notebook paper weighed down with a bunch of full pellet tins to keep it from whipping around. Ie it wasn't the day for accuracy testing. However, the .20/18.9gr NSA showed quite a bit of promise as fast as 980, and the .20/15.89 we're really good at 930-950 with the 0.123 tp and minimum hammer spring tension. In fact, at the end of the day I left the gun at that 930-950fps with .20/15.89s and 0.123 tp for now. It's a happy medium of conserving air and pleasantness on the shot cycle. Filling to 2050 and shooting down to 1600 kept the fps in that 930-955 range and is currently producing sufficient consistency and accuracy to make it fun. And quite a few shots there too. AND I can get to 960 with the .20/18.9s by just dialing in more hammer spring tension.

I wasn't a fan of how the gun felt and sounded with the 0.145 transfer port, but I know I'll come back around to that for shooting higher fpe at some point.

The gun is long.
I like how much power it can produce with such low fill pressure.
I like the trigger now that the auto-safety crap is removed.
I like the adjustability. Those transfer ports allow for a very wide spread of power output.
I like the simplicity.
Airforce calls these their "utility" airguns, and I see why, and that's not necessarily a bad thing. I was talking to a brother in law recently about how complicated trucks are. He commented that he prefers trucks with roll up windows, among other pieces of older tech, "less to go wrong and less to break." And I kinda agree with him. Our world is complicated these days that it's kinda nice to step back to a simpler time by enjoying a straightforward gun.

Work on progress, already has different scope and different rings on it ...
PXL_20240720_061052074.jpg


Public thanks to @fderry for the very helpful Airforce PMs in the last few days.

Airgun Technologies  Vulcan 3 700 .25 vs.... Any other?

Being retired I had the time for making the following exercise:

Which of my PCP's are able to have killing power at diverse distance and accuracy to be reliable.

A .30 Cal Vulcan 3 HP should have more killing power at 200 yards.... Doubtless, but would be to much for must of what I hunt frequently.

Non of my other PCP' have the accuracy nor the power at 200 yards that the Vulcan 3 700 mm .25 Cal has.

To shoot closer than 130 yards there are MANY rifles that could be better, yes...... BUT ....

What is the rational to choose a more limited rifle over a better performer ???

Many would say that not all are interested in shooting so far.... And that is truth.... BUT...

Why choosing a less capable product for the same price ???
  • Like
Reactions: Kpac

PCP Pistol  SOLD FS - FWB P11 w Rink Grips

Excellent condition, has case and everything that came with it from FWB including original ambidextrous grip. Rink walnut grip is medium to maybe smallish in size (sorry, don't know size, made to my hand measurements).

Asking $900 shipped in the CONUS. Paypal friends and family or add 4% to cover fees. Email tobinwebster at yahoo dot com for more info/photos.

20240524_214715.jpg


20240716_190011.jpg


20240524_214755.jpg


20240524_214655.jpg

Traditional Rifle  SOLD Lowered FS - HW98 with CS Target Stock 0.177

Excellent condition HW98 with a walnut CS Target Stock, 12FPE Vortek spring kit, and black anodized Rowan Engineering set back trigger. Only mark I see is a pin head sized nick or blemish on the barrel which is how it came from the manufacturer when i bought it about 9 months ago (photo). Has threaded barrel and muzzle weight.

Stock has a non-adjustabke Ruger rubber butt plate. The adjustable one that came with it was very poorly fit and added a lot of LOP, so I installed the thinner rubber pad. Works great. You will need high rings as the stock cheek rest is pretty tall - at leasr for me.

I can also put this in an HW95 Field Pro beech stock (as new) or an original HW98 stock. Or, if you'd like to just buy the CS Target Stock, let me know. If interested, contact me and we can discuss pricing.

Riser, rings and scope not included in the sale. Asking $750 shipped. Paypal friends and family or add 4% to cover fees.

Please email tobinwebster at yahoo dot com if interested or for more/better photos.

20240720_193110.jpg


20240720_193038.jpg


20240720_193025.jpg


20240720_193059.jpg

PCP Rifle  NLA Ed Gun Matador and Crosman P-rod carbine

Ed Gun Matador .22. Has 2 Ed Gun magazines, Huma reg. The hammer spring was custom made by John Hagan out of evergreen Colorado, making it possible to us a wrench to increase the hammer tension. 775.00 shipped Sold pend funds
Crosman P-rod carbine. .22 has a new pop it valve and reseal 7/24. Shooting 14gr at 750 to 800 fps fill to 2000 psi. Has TKO. has factory box shoulder stock and all things to turn it back into a pistol. It also has the same finish issues that seems to be common on the air tube, rest of the gun is prefect. 400.00 shipped P-ROD sold pending funds
Paypal F&F

IMG_2302[1].JPG


IMG_2304[1].JPG


IMG_2303[1].JPG


IMG_2305[1].JPG


IMG_2306[1].JPG


IMG_2298[1].JPG


IMG_2301[1].JPG


IMG_2300[1].JPG
  • Like
Reactions: cinch32

Shelf storage for air rifles?

Aside from rifle safes, what sort of storage media do you use? I am considering buying or building wide “bookshelves” with just enough vertical clearance for hard and soft rifle cases. I’m close to almost 20 different air rifles in the basement (all in hard and soft cases) and need better organization. Thanks for your ideas and suggestions.

Is my scope broken?

When trying to change my POI upwards, the elevation turret clicks, but nothing happens - if anything the POI goes down.

Looking through the scope when making the adjustments, I can see the crosshairs move up and down in the lower part of it's adjustment, but then gets to the point where it is clicking, but no longer moving the cross hairs.

It's a 57 yard shot, so that should fall under the normal adjustment range of a scope, right?

PCP Rifle  NLA Cool gun

I’m selling my almost new gun that’s barely shot. No time to shoot. This has the new REPRX regulator. Comes with original box and everything it came with plus an Edgun pellet loader. This has the grip with the tools inside. I’ve changed the gauge to a Wika analog gauge because the digital one was crap. Bought originally from Edgun west couple months ago. I’ve shot maybe 100 pellets. With the current tune as it came from Edgun west she’s shooting about 880 with the 10.34 pellets. No leaks no problems. Please watch videos of this gun if you’re not familiar or have never owned or handled the L2 platform. Asking $1900 shipped. PayPal f&f only please. I will send UPS within CONUS and an adult signature will be required.

Hello, new guy from mass.

Hello, new guy from Mass. been around air guns for ages but i have been impressed by
PCPs, wow have they come a long way. I got a Hatsan QE 22 cal from my neighbor who moved to an elderly complex and could not take it with him. I'm an old springer guy
but gave them up because of shoulder trouble. now i fill my tank with a scuba tank my son gave me. was hoping to get some info on a new rifle to shoot barn rats at 90 yards the QE just scares them away and my granddaughter won't use the barn as a studio until i do. I'm looking at the FX King 600 in 25 cal with a Nexus 5-20x50, would i use pellets or slugs for the best results. I would like head shots don't like suffering. any info would be greatly appreciated

Thanks the old goat.
  • Like
Reactions: addison

Filter