Hi everyone,

I have bunch of pcp airguns, and one of my favorite one is the MKII in .30 cal , I'm thinking to buy M3 which is going around $1600 ish for the new one, $500-$600 cheaper than M4s. Just wanted to ask all the members with M3, is this a good move or pay the extra $$$ and go for a M4 ? TIA

Currently many feel JTS - AEA are out performing JSB and H&N and so forth. Issue for me is the lead configuration because I shoot atomics/ hades for pest work. The JSB/FX domes match the best with the guns current tune. If JTS made a hades equivalent, maybe I’d look into it.

Leupold, Weaver, Swarovski, Bushnell, Burris, Sightron, and when I got cheap Meullar these were the scopes throughout my life. Now with my new sub hobby and joining this forum I have learned new names Athlon, Element, Arken and Hawke. So far the ZELOS has a Athlon heras 6-24 and on the way for my Daystate revere is an Arken epl4 4-16. With the order of a Hatsan neutron star I’ve been researching. I was ready to pull the trigger on an Element nexus 5 5-20 on sale for $880. I was thinking about when I was shooting benchrest 22lr with my silhouette rifle with a Leupold vx3 6-20, even though it shot perfect scores I desired more power. Hence I nixed the Element and went real high power. Athlon ares etr uhd 15-60x56
Im gonna put it on my most accurate gun. I had a Sightron s3 10-60 for 1000 yard f class, don’t think at that range with mirage I could use it much over 30x. I am sorry I sold that one but f class was just too much work accurizing loads, didn’t think I’d need again.

So awake in the middle of the night justifying another thousand !
Mike

Ok ,after a few requests on how I dye and Finnish beech stocks. I will offer how I do it.. NOTE. ITS NOT THE ONLY WAY OR THE BEST BUT RATHER A SIMPLE WAY TO GET UNIFORM RESULTS with available products from local stores.
Factory beech stocks are done in a spray booth with spray dye and tinted Finnish sometimes. Using a two part conversion varnish.
Could we duplicate the process. YES ! If you have the booth and know how to spray two part conversion finish.
Newer stocks may use two part waterborne but they still dye them.

First let’s look at the wood species. Beech ,it’s a very tight grained wood , mainly European and German origins. We have beech here in the states but it’s not ne’er as prevalent. It’s very dense and shock resistant. Many old machine shops used it under big machinery.
Like our oaks and Walnuts ,Beech is a big percentage of their cheaper easier to get lumber. As it is, it’s not always the prety color and grain of Walnut . It works well for Airgun stocks that have a lot of shock. Springers especially.

Beech tends to be a white to cream colored with tiny specks ranging from flame to swell grain. In Quartered forum it’s got great fleck or medullary rays.
All that being said it’s not so oh easy to finish uniformly with wipe on oil penetrating stains and the such.

It finishes a nice blond uniform color in natural state with darker to lighter flecks that will create chatoyance. Those same flecks and rays drive finishers crazy trying to stain them as their density does not take color well. Hence the dying and pre dyed sealers to try and blend the color to uniformity.

Ok. Enough of the professor garble.. let’s get to it.

First thing is get a empty swear jar , and a case of . Or whatever imbibing vice, you will need both.

The number one goal is to get the beech stock as clean and remove all of the existing old finish.
That can be done with Stripper and thick rubber gloves. With a purple Scotch Brite pad. The strongest stripper you can get. ( don’t go down to the local adult bar and ask for NELL , although ,you may need her for moral support). Methelene chloride kind. I’ve had some not budge, old Webley and HW stocks. Newer guns are far easier as the new finish isn’t as durable as yesterday years of Voc lung buster finishes.
Second crack a adult beverage prior to stating as nothing taste better than a stripper on your bottle.

FOR YOU GUYS WHO START SANDING THE COMPLETE STOCK TO GET TO BARE WOOD. ILL BUY THE AND WATCH. YOUR AN ANIMAL AND BELONG ON THE UFC


MATERIALS NEEDED.
Chemical stripper.
SAND PAPER. 120/220/320
Oxyclean
denatured alcohol
Trans Tint dye
Scotch Bright
Hair dryer. Optional.
Oil based spray polyurethane … I use Minwax in black can , Warm Satin sheen give a great look with a semi sheen but duller
Fan box type.
rubber goves
eye protection
respirator for those SAFTY types. .
terry towels
vinegar
steel wool
jar
jar for solution
BEER
PATIENCE

DAY 1
THICK KITCHEN RUBBER GLOVES MANDITORY.

This is a long process, small areas. Wet, let sit , and scrub till bare COLORED wood shows. Take a TOOTH HOLDING PULL OFF YOUR , repeat for the time it takes. During this time ,remember that empty jar. Put a buck in it every time you swear you will never do this again. By the time your done you could use it to buy a new stock.

Dont try to get every BIT of color yet. It’s just the film coating we NEED OFF. We have future tools for that. Once you get the stock stripped of all film and dull ,usually lighter brown. open a new . As your lips are numb by now from the old stripper bottle combo.. If you can taste the new one you were lucky and the lord blessed you and finish didn’t fight ya.. Add a buck to jar for your efforts and the pain and mind swearing you did.

Wait a few hrs for stripper to really dry and swelling to go down. It’s a great time to sit back and enjoy those If your in a hurry a hair dryer is your friend. Remember wet moist wood don’t sand well.

Once it’s to bare wood there is the color removal. First we are gonna stare into a mirror and recite. “ I’m good enough, I’m smart enough,and dogone , people like me” SS . YOU will feel better for it.

Depending on how deep the color is ,you need to get as much off as you can. Especially if your attempting to go lighter. That’s a whole step I’ll mention later. Usually most will want to go factory look or darker or even pastel as it’s now in vogue.
Start sanding with 120 with the grain. Removing color till blond wood is revealed. Take a sip now. You just earned a blond point.
Continue sanding with 120 till 90% or more of color is gone.
Ok, relax. You are now NO WHERE CLOSE TO EVEN BEING DONE. Open ,insert into jar.
Repeat same process with 220 concentrating on unevennspots or dark spots. Insert into jar as they are still gonna be there.

Now , before you go farther, call your priest or rabbi and ask them to pray for you as your arms to weak to raise up Your let alone pray..


Day 2 or those who live in ARIZONA still day one if your sober.

If your one of the lucky ones that your stock finish just melted like hot knife in butter , WE HATE YOU ..(just kidding, congrats) USUALLY , I DO THIS IN A FEW DAYS AS THERE ISN'T ENOUGH ROOM IN THE JAR , AND I RUN OUT OF … CRYING MAMA.
In all seriousness it’s because I don’t want to add more moisture to the wood. The stripper does add some and THIS STEP WILL TO.




SO if your at 220 with darker areas still it’s time for Chemical warfare. EYE PROTECTION IS A MUST.
mix a solution of Oxalic acid / oxyclean and water .. Wipe the stock down sat ( For stubborn stocks ,I’ve used pool breech,shock)
let sit until it drys. Sunlight helps. If you see powder forming just drink a and shut your garage door.
Its the acid bleach working to raise color. You can scrub the areas with Scotch bright and bleach to get deeper

By now the stock should be 98% stain free. Grain streaks or SPALT line will NEVER bleach out or sand out. Remember uniformity is the goal. It’s mother natures work and she does beautiful work. Raise toast to her now .

Repeat sanding of complete stock with 320. This is where the last bit of achievable color will come out. I said achievable because some may never come all out. put a in the jar.
It’s ok ,don’t fret unless your trying to go natural. Then you may have to revert to the (shock treatment). Those light ingrained spots will usually blend with the dye. It is IMPERITIVE THAT YOU GET ALL SCRATCHES OUT NOW FROM PREVIOUS SANDING. if 320 won’t drop back to 220 in that area and back up to 320. To blend. Completely scratch free is what you need as if it’s left there dye amplifies and and finish will reward it for doing so all the wile staring you in the face mocking your poor efforts.
By now your reciting Ricky Bobby’s ,I pray to Jesus, manta.. throwing at the jar in hate.


Day 3. YOU MADE IT. Probably a little fuzzy from the wife scalding you took for rolling in like Orry Lee Kennedy. we can blame the bleach .

OK your now into the scientific part. Mixing and making potions , You know Harry Potter and the likes. Wizardry No beer yet..



[[[[[[[********* For black Ebony Stocks or rich dark chocolate brown this step is needed. This is called Iron Acetate wipe down and what it does is make the wood darker And more uniform. So dye is not so transparent.


IS IT NEEDED FOR MOST LIGHT TO MEDIUM BROWNS .. USUALLY NOT but, BLACK IS MANDATORY OR DARK INTENSE COLORS

IRON ACETATE …. SOUNDS SCIENTIFIC. .. ITS NOT.

Mix up a quart jar of 2 cups of white vinegar and half wad of cleaned with denatured alcohol steel wool a few days prior to planing the color coat.
Let it sit for at least 24 or more ,it gets more intense the longer it sits. I always make mine at least 3 days prior. MAKE SURE TO POKE HOLES IN THE LID OR USE A TOWEL TO COVER AS THE ACID WILL OFF GASS AND NEEDS TO FOR THE FORMULATE WORK. ITS NOT CAUSTIC TO YOU SO DONT WORRY. LEAVE IT IN THE GARAGE OR SHED. OR BASEMENT. ……… or your wife’s night stand as sweet tea. . (Just kidding)

With a clean stock completely wipe down the wood with a uniform wet rag , don’t be stingy wet it down. It will and should start turning anywhere from dark brown to grey and will darken more and even out after drying.

This needs to dry for at least a day in natural weather or half day in Nevada
A hair dryer is not good as you want the acids to do their thing.

After dry time you will see darker uniform stock that is either grayish to brownish. Every wood is different. It’s not a color process as much as a blending for dark colors. ]]]]





Completely wipe all dust or blow off with compressed air.
set on clean towels.

DEPENDING on The COLOR.. Your going to have to experiment a tad, if you have never worked with dye. Make samples.. White pine gives a idea of how intense and close for samples. You can always lighten it if it’s to dark later ,but rarely as it’s pretty east to mix desired color.

Start with 1 cup of denatured alcohol to 10 good drops of trans tint. ( don’t be cheap ,it’s not cheap but you want color soak ) Mix up. You can always add more dye to depending color you can’t add alcohol to get more product so mix enough and then some .. ITS BETTER TO HAVE ENOUGH THAN TO WISH YOU WERE NOT SO FRUGGLE AS A RUN OUT MID JOB ..

If making samples ,record your mixing ratios.. don’t be afraid to add more ,it only intensifies the color

Now open a , celebrate your Enrico Fermi ability ,before the color coat as you can’t when dying it’s messy and you will look awfully funny from it.

Put your gloves on and get a small towel waded into a ball. About the size of a golf ball, and very wet . Apply the dy with a firm press to buff out and smooth off wood . It will dry very fast from the Evaporating alcohol but keep smothering it .. Once it’s it’s all colored you will re apply a second and third time with light feathering off method to get it deep into the wood as possible. By now your reaching for beers as it looks disastrous to the uneducated.
RELAX.. it’s not GONA get rich and intense until finish is applied. It should be dry dull with uninamanimaty.

UNINAMANIMITY, is what we are looking for. Touch up areas with small towel or brush.
DO NOT WIPE THE DYE OFF ITS NOT STAIN. Blend it and let it dry. In 2 mins it’s surface dry not chemically though.

Once your satisfied with the color LET DRY FOR 24 hrs It’s very important that all the pigments dry deep into the wood.
Rush it and coat to early and your reward is A re strip re dye .. 24 hrs min.


DAY 4 Depending on if you used iron acetate or not maybe 5

I look the stock over well for any obvious signs of issues. Grain showing through or speck flake grain that just won’t take. I deal with those with colored Sharpies and a fat thumb or touch up left over Dye. I never use any oil stain in the process.

Why ..many here have and will say that’s BS , RELAX Frances. There are many ways to skin a cat ,this is just what consistantley has worked for me.

If repairs are made use hair dryer to speed dry.

I set up a box fan on low behind me a ways back, with a dowel or Some method to hold it into the trigger guard area but IT HAS TO BE SECURE
Some will Suspend it and walk around it. I like my fan directionally blowing any over spry away. It’s on low 10 feet back

BY now you haven’t put in the jar from your proud ego.. THROW 5 in there because you want to please any god as you will benefit from all the luck you can

I hold the stock in my left hand full arms length away using Minwax oil poly , water Based can wash out the dye revealing the beautiful beech your trying to hide hidden underneath.

Spray the first coat very light at a fast rate. The stock will drink this up fast , move along keeping the can past the ends overlapping

Let that seal coat sit for at least a hr. open and weep drinking at either your success or failure as you drink and stare at it.
If your sober still ,,,you succeeded at creating a uniform as can be beech stock

Its all down hill from hear as the dye now has been locked under the sealer and will not move as polyurethane isn’t a reactive finish but rather a film building type.
Repeat the second coat as the first ,………….or if it’s disaster continue on the . It’s only a strip and re dye…I’ll explain that in a bit for you failures

Let each coat dry for a hr.. as your putting your third coat on you should start to see it wet off and shine like a glass

LET DRY , REFUSE TO SAND YET. SANDING BETWEEN COATS IS A PROCESS WHEN FURNITURE IS SPRAYED NATURAL And has ample sealer

The Minwax oil poly is very forgiving. I’m sure other brands are out there that may work better or as good Feel free to experiment. This has worked for me and I hate re doing stuff when I could be relaxing shooting them or

By now the stock should have 4 coats on it. With a even satin film if there is good build and no grain raise spray another coat on to get the build up. Once you have the build you want , (I usually go till no its glass smooth), and are happy you can either leave it or let it dry for a week and see if finish falls into the wood and needs more. At this time you will need a super fine sand with 400 tp 600 to re apply , but doing one every hr will not as it’s a hot coat bond.


If its slightly orange peeled wet sand with 400 to 600 but be gentle , edge sanding and blow through will send you to the jar fast

I usually end up with around 8 to ten coats or this. Remember it’s not brush on finish with a much higher solids content so build is incremental


Restrip is done with a lot of and lacquer thinner scrubbing a scotch brite. Then clean up with sand paper as stated. And re dye and Re try.

I’m sure I missed a lot as it’s old hat for me but I hope this helps. I’m off to have a . With the money from the jar.

Found this nice tx 200 sr it’s the one from the original venom advertisement poster and still in fantastic condition . Very happy with it . Old but it shoots amazing. Happy days . Think that’s dons engraving to

Any interest in a Taipan Veteran 2, 700 mm bbl 25 cal mag tuned by Tony. I find I like the version 1 better. Can send pics in a couple days. This has cz not choked bbl, heavy hammer spring, grey laminate stock and all the mags and stuff. It's a hammer, and a scalpel! Has power plenum. Scope and rings not included.
Low shot count, not messed with, $1000.

Here is a look at my new Pyramyd Air version of the Skout Airguns EVO in .22 caliber with the standard 25 inch LW barrel. This is a beautiful gun in black! This video will show all the colors. Happy Holidays! (10% off at Skout Direct Store).

Hurts me to sell this as I haven't had a chance to shoot it, it's currently with @Tango Sierra . He is cading up some mags for it atm, and I sadly need to let it go. It won't be shipped until he is done printing the mags and testing them to make sure they work as intended.

Gun comes with 2 oem mags, donny fl mod threaded to fit the gun, the gun bag, and fill probe.

It likes to shoot 18.13 and it shoots them at 815fps, crossmans shoot near 880fps and it shoots them very well out to 100yds from what @Scott.t has told me. Both of our feedbacks are immaculate, so if you have questions, shoot.

$1250 shipped

This is about 1 1/2 years old holds air forever comes with everything in the pictures the bipod is a Chinese knock off but it works and comes with leg extensions the scope is a 3-9 X 32 bushel optic also two magazines one is the normal FX magazine the other is a eagle vision magazine and a Donny tanto with is attached to the gun I even threw in a tin of pellets
And as far as it having a 480 cc bottle instead of a 300 cc bottle once you put a moderator on the front of it, the barrel sticks out long enough where really doesn’t matter what size bottle and I like the extra shots
and its already boxed up ready to ship

Asking 1750 TYD OBO
I am the first and only owner of this impact I bought it new from Airgun Depot

As the title says - trying to bring this classic 10 m air rifle from 1968 back to life. I want to change the stock from varnish to oil finish, and slim the grip just a little bit. The leather piston seal is totally rotten, and I have decided to put in a spring with more power and a synthetic piston seal ordered from Germany. The work is started, and I also got the large barrel weight blued yesterday (even though I`m not sure if I want to put it back - it is really heavy).

Earlier this year I decided to sell off all of my PCP airguns and just focus on springers and rimfire powder burners.
AGN members may have seen a long list of PCP related gear in the Members Classified section.
At one point AGN member EPG “Ed” replied to some of my items. We worked out a price and Ed used his bank to send me the funds. Shortly after that I contacted Ed with additional items he might be interested in. We made a deal and Ed again had his bank send me the funds. I had quite a few buyers I was selling and shipping items to during that period. As funds arrived I packed and shipped items. I have sold a couple guns to Ed and is a trusted buyer so I shipped before funds arrived.
At one point I thought I was still waiting on funds from Ed but I had so many transactions I figured I got it but didn’t remember. That was approximately August.
Sunday night, December 8th, I get a text message from Ed wondering if I was short $260 for a couple items he bought. I was right, there was a check that never arrived. Ed explained in his text that his bank dropped the ball and never sent the checks.
Ed did not have contact me and ask if I got his funds. Ed is truly one stand up guy and I truly respect his character.
EPG’s character is impeccable and anyone should feel comfortable dealing with him. Thank you Ed for your honesty.
Randy

I came across some pellets I no longer use and would like to sell, preferably the whole lot. They are .22 cal, and were used to compete in benchrest in 2014 (possibly from a time when pellets were made better?), and all shot well in my RAW. They are sealed cans of 500 as follows:

7 cans JSB Jumbo Exact 15.89gr (current Airgun Depot price 23.99 ea)
5 cans JSB Jumbo Exact Heavy 18.1gr (current price 21.99 ea)
7 cans Air Arms Diabolo Field 16 gr (made by JSB) (current price 22.99 ea)

I bought the Air Arms pellets from Mike N., who found them to be accurate (and I agreed)

Total current price is about $440. I will take $300 and throw in a mostly full 8th can of the AA pellets

I have a Brocock commander XR .22. One of two issues I'm having is the roll pin that connects the charging handle to the linkage keeps falling out. It is the factory roll pin so the size should be correct. The guy I bought it from said it was even doing it when it was new, Just wondering if anyone else is having the same issue? The only fix I can think of is to flare the top side to keep it from coming out. If there's another fix I'm all ears.

The other issue is accuracy. I would think that if I fill the rifle to the max 240-250 bar it should matter since there is a separate regulator to keep the shot to shot pressures the same. If I only fill to the top of the green line on the gauge it's s tack driver. If I fill to max pressure it seems to be throwing of the point of impact. Not sure if the regulator is messing up or what. I do have a 0DB suppressor on it but I've had that on since the I bought it. Sorry but I do not have chrony readings. Oh also the tank pressure and the shot regulated pressure do not read the same, and the regulator psi stays constant no matter what I fill to.

Crossman 2300T .177 Custom Shop $100 shipped.
Crossman 2300T .22 Custom Shop $100 shipped.-SOLD
Weihrauch HW70A .177 $225 shipped.
Crossman American Classic .177 $40 shipped.
Crossman American Classic .22 $40 shipped.
Avanti 753S .177 $175 plus shipping.
Artemis CR600W .177 $80 plus shipping.
Seneca Dragonfly MK2 .22 $100 plus shipping.
Beeman QB78 Deluxe .22 $75 plus shipping.
Hawke Airmax 2-7X Scope $130 shipped.-SOLD
Hawke Airmax 3-9X Scope $140 shipped.-SOLD
Vortex Crossfire II 4-12X Scope $175 shipped.-REDUCED TO $150
Vortex II 6-18X Scope $200 shipped.-REDUCED TO $175

I also have a very large supply of .177 and .22 pellets I will sell for 1/3 current price plus shipping for large quantities.
Where I included shipping, it is to CONUS only.
Will consider all offers.
I'm afraid the .177 Custom 2300T has my initials on it.
All items are in excellent condition and lightly used with original boxes.

Ok, ok, the HW50 72 is ready to go. I’m just not able to screw that bloody trigger housing back on. I ordered a part. Wrapped it up in rags and placed on floor and come back another day. So what do I do, I tear another HW50 apart, a 68. This one the 3 is backwards on both stamps.
I noticed the barrel is ruff.
Not familiar with this breach seal.
I remove the trigger assembly and the forward pin is in 4 pieces.It looks like a bushing is crushed. Starting to look like a parts gun.I’m able to twist off the trigger block off with out hammering it. And it screws off easy. The spring has no tension on it period. I’m trying to pry out the spring. Then realize it’s under pressure, so I screw the trigger block back on.

Why would the spring be stuck in there. Through the hole below the thread you can see wood through the hole. The spring is caught under pressure.
Any ideas?
Crow

SOLD: EDgun Leshiy .30 Caliber 250mm in excellent to like new condition. No functional issues and no leaks. Base configuration package as purchased when new. PayPal Friends & Family or Zelle.

$1825.00 Shipped / CONUS ​

Any idea on why airgun moderators aren't possible to list?

What's the best way to sell a used air gun?

FX Boss with synthetic stock in great condition….Upgraded to a 480 carbon fiber bottle so much lighter than the old bottle style and has the lower pic rail installed for your bipod.

Has a Huma reg installed and is shooting the 44.75 lights out right at 880.

Comes with one magazine and DonnyFL adapter

Scope, rings, bipod, not included

I am in the 900.00 range on it but am open to offers and can split the shipping.

Had my Panthera for 2 years now. 25 700. Been trying to sell it as I could never get it to perform. My best grouping has been with the 1:24 liner shooting 38 grain Griffins. This weekend I installed the 1:18 liner and tried some 50 grain Alteros slugs. Wow. I have recently read great reviews about Alteros so had to give them try. The 2 pictures show 5 shots at 50 yards and 10 shots at 80 yards. Very much encouraged. They are traveling 925 fps

*** SOLD *** Selling one of my Accu-Tac FC-4 G2 Bipod Picatinny Bi-Pods. This was only used for 100-yard benchrest competition and practice. Very minor wear aside from the contact points of the picatinny clamping mount. Not much more to say... one of the best bipods you can buy. I moved to shooting benchrest with a larger table-top tripod for the extra weight on the bench, so I no longer need two of these bipods. Price is $295 shipped and insured to your door. Continental US only. Payment via PayPal Friends & Family.

Does anyone know of any online sites that don't require a 10-day wait, 10 post min, and joining of a sorority to ***###*****

i think i finally found a real good replacement o ring for that 2.84 x2.62 that drags on the valve rod.
after taking the gun apart and completely cleaning every bit of factory grease out of it.
i was inspecting the plenum tube i noticed that it didn't have the small white o ring like i see people replacing, it was black.
and dragged across the rod bogus.
then i thought of Polyether Urethane did some math and came up with these.
1/8 id x5/16 od x 3.32cs Duro 90.
long story short got some swapped it out best thing since sliced bread.
shot strings from sitting don't matter here is 2 shot strings from today after the gun sitting 24 hrs.
its tuned for 32g aea slugs rolled the wheel from 11 to 5 no other adjustments and shot jts 29,34g semi domes.
reg is set 128-130

*** SOLD ***

Selling my complete LabRadar Chronograph package. Includes the following:

1) LabRadar Chronograph (FW-A: 2.0.0 / FW-B 2.0.0 / HW: 1.3.0).
2) Table stand with adjustable ball socket head.
3) Stainless Steel sighting tube.
4) Airgun microphone trigger with mounting bracket and extra foam cover.
5) 20000 m/Ah external power brick w/cable.
6) Three SD cards for data storage
7) Soft-sided LabRadar carry case.

I have never had a problem catching and tracking any airgun pellets I've tried to chronograph. Price is $300 shipped & insured to your door. Continental US only. Payment via PayPal Friends & Family.

Hi All,

Picked this up over the weekend not realizing I had purchased another .25 (instead of .22) so parting with this one.

Is in great shape and has been tuned by Derrick Wall for the JSB 33.95 right at 900 FPS.

Shoots like a laser and comes with a total of 8 magazines and fill probe.

Scope, rings, bipod, moderator not included.

Say 850.00 and we can split the shipping (OBO)