An FX for $999? What? ...and it's super nice! Here is my full review of the 500mm compact FX DRS Classic synthetic. Thanks for watching! -Nate

The ThermNight TNC225R is being launched under DNT Optics ( Day & Night Technologies). DNT is derived from the prior successes of the Arken Zulus but with new ownership, management and team.

As many of you know I have been on a personal quest to find the best scopes for hunting and pesting. There is something about the digital scopes that pulls me in. The ones that I have tested have been the Pard 007, Pard 008p, Wraith HD 2-16, Wraith 4K Max, Wraith 4K Mini, Pulsar Digex c50, Accufire tr1, ATN 4K Pro, sent back the series 5 four times before I gave up, Oneleaf NV400, and last but not least the Zulus. I spent a lot of time with the zulus over the last year. I have helped others learn how to use it and answer any questions I could. My work and effort into helping others while also learning the product was recognized. I've been given an amazing opportunity to join the DNT team.

Now to the good stuff…the ThermNight TNC225R is a multispectral scope that has a thermal scope, with a digital day and digital night scope in one unit. On Top of that you will see the built in IR light and LRF with the option for ballistics when it's paired with the DNT app. Having all this packed into one unit gives you the benefits of thermal and digital images in one package. Thermal will spot your targets fast but having the option to ID that target faster with your digital image is amazing. It uses a flat top 18650, 32GB of built in storage, an IP67 rating and can withstand the recoil of a 50 BMG.


The Zulus is one of my favorites for a few reasons: compact size, everything built in, and it’s lightweight even with all the features it has. It is coming in with a weight of 22oz which includes the mount and battery. The ThermNight TNC225R follows that same lightweight trend and is only around 6oz more with a total weight of 28.50oz (including the mount and a battery). For a size comparison I added a picture below of both units side by side.


Since it is two scopes built into one unit you will need to zero both the digital side and the thermal side. By doing this you will now be able to take a shot with the thermal or the digital day or night. A short press of power freezes the image just like the zulus. Zeroing is much faster when you use the screen freeze. In that zeroing menu you can choose 1 of the 5 reticles available as well as your color preference. Available reticle colors are Red, Black, Yellow and Green. Below is a short clip of the zeroing menu, reticle colors and reticle options.

Next is a look at the menu layout in the device

Next, we have the buttons and their functions attached. I also added a real picture of what you will see on the scope.




Since the ThermNight is a multispectral scope you will have the option to have the thermal as your main viewing screen or with a click of the side button you can make the digital image your main screen. After that you will have the option to turn on the PIP (Picture in Picture) mode and this will allow you to run both images at the same time, one in the main viewing screen and the other in the PIP window. You will be able to choose the location of the PIP window. Upper center, upper left or right corner. For me I like it in the upper left corner.


I have personally been using this device on my BRK Atomic in .177 which is set at 10fpe. Having a view of both the thermal and the digital all in one lets me get on target faster than ever. For me what I will do is scan with the thermal as my main screen while the digital is in the PIP, once I see the pest I’m after I swap it to have the digital in my main screen to take the shot.


In this next clip the you will see a heat signature of a canine at 145 yards with just the thermal that's all you can tell you would need to wait to see behavior to identify if it was a coyote. I go through the modes and than show the digital image and bam it was a clearly a dog yes it was a friend's dog and the ThermNight was mounted only on my tripod but you get it all the other clips below will show similar scenarios.

If you made it this far in my review be sure to use brawler10 for a 10% off and any of your purchases.

I have been shooting air rifles for many years now. I,m just your average Joe lunch bucket guy now retired. I started
with break barrels, & moved up into entree level pcps. Avenger,hatsan Fash AEA 357 standard Chalinger .357.Most of my scopes
are Amazon $60 & under. How many here are like me in regards to your air gun hobby? Just wondering? Are are you more
into the $1000 & above crowd?

Fly

Just like the poll says. Grab an M3 for 200 off retail or pre order or wait for an M4. I would pony up the extra 200 clams and wait for the M4.

Is it normal for the fan to be blowing air out of the unit? I took the cover off and I think it should be pulling air into the unit and across the radiator. That is how radiators work. That may explain my overheating issue. The fan is always at 100% so its moving a lot of air and its fairly loud.

Excellent condition. Pm for any info or additional pics. 350fpe on high and just under 200 fpe on power level 2 with the fx hybrids.

Probably posted before but as a soon to be owner of the Notos, I had some questions because I just recently went down the airgun rabbithole.

I never knew one could modify these airguns, for example the Notos being 22cal but some people have been able to modify it with some 500mm barrel to allow for larger calibers like 25cal pellets?! An ar stock conversion attachment?! Adding a removable air bottle? ?

I saw in this video at 2:57 this man had a mini air tank to refill/top off his notos.

Im curious what can be done. For now I will be getting a bonestock air gun, I am getting a pcp handpump for it.

Until ive shot it enough, I may consider modding it but unsure the processes or what will be needed. So I hope as a novice I can learn and understand what to do for potential modding in the future.

I want to learn and saw someone mention somewhere that a user can help for a fee

I started with a ToAuto shoebox compressor, but I’ve quickly outgrown it. Decided to bite the bullet and upgrade to a GX CS4 after reading a lot of advice here.

My question is whether the pictured filter and molecular sieve are sufficient or if I should look at something different.

Hello guys. I'm owning wildcat MK3 and everything was perfect until I decided to play a bit with my gun. This is what I did.
I increased reg pressure from 90bar to 110. Installed pin probe and heavier 13gr hammer. After all of this changes the power of my gun increased from around 40 joules to around 57. And here is where strange things start to happen. My power adjustment wheel was not making any difference in velocity speed. Further more, at some point when I played a bit with adjustment screw I got higher velocity on setting 1 than on 7. It should be the other way around. Then I decreased a bit regulator pressure back to 100bar and I switched back to oryginal hammer. Now it doesn't shoot at all. It looks like some air is getting to the barrel. I can hear some air released from barrel when takie probe back from the barrel with cocking lever. To release remaining in barrel slug I installed back the heavier hammer and it shoots back again. I changed to lighter and it's not shooting as the hammer would not have enough power to open the valve. Do you have any idea on what can be wrong?

I have been watching YouTube videos on M4 since M4 has been released.

A lot of things have already been said in the videos. But I understand that an important comparison between M4 and M3 has not been made, neither their pros and cons have been discussed.

My following video gives insight into the pros and cons and comparison.

I hope it would be interesting for technical readers.


Regards,

Bhaur

I just finished up a custom parallax wheel for my FT rig. I think it turned out pretty good!
I've been using a Nikko Diamond Sterling 10x50x60 and really like the scope. I bought it used more than 10 years ago and it came with a "comma" style parallax wheel. It served me well but I didn't like the design since the effective are of the comma was pretty small. You can see from the pic below I had to transition from the comma wheel to the smaller diameter factory knob for anything much below 35Y. It turned out it wasnt a huge deal because my trajectory was at peak from 25Y-35Y so I didnt really lose much function in that range. None the less, I wanted to upgrade to a larger and wheel that was effective over the whole FT range of 10Y-55Y. The pics below show what I came up with.

This one shows the "original" condition as-purchased.


I started out with a hand sketch to get the general design


Next up was to model it in CAD. I used Fusion 360.


You can see the "tabs" left in to hold the part in place so it didnt come loose and break the end mill.

Next up was to configure the CAM (computer aided machining) to direct the end mill in the right sequence.


The pic below shows the stock bolted to the table and the facing operation complete.



Even with the flood coolant on, the "pocket clearing" operation used to open up the inner holes made a huge mess. I took a break here to vacuum up the chips.



The pic below shows the outline machined. Since some of the facing cuts required removing some of the hold down bolts, I also used powdercoating tape to secure the part to the table. Its about .002 thick. It amazes me that the cutter was able to cut all the aluminum out without cutting into the tape! This is a hobby grade CNC mill but Im pretty damn impressed with the accuracy.


My design uses a non-removable wheel. The Nikko scope parallax rotates in the opposite direction of many scopes. This puts the large portion of the wheel on the bottom side where its not much in the way. I had to get a bit creative to cut the slit in the clamping tab. I used a manual mill and a slitting saw for that operation. My clamping solution was rock solid and with light cuts, I had no problem.



The finished part was in good shape but I wasnt a fan of the end mill tracks so I used a random orbit sander to put a nice matt finish on it.



For the inside holes, I used some scotch brite to give it a uniform appearance.


The drilling and tapping was also done on the manual mill but I didnt snap any pics of the process.

The finished product turned out great. Its rock solid and gave me plenty of room in between the yardage marks at the far end ranges.



Overall, Im very pleased. It was a lot of work though. It doesnt look like it should have taken very long, but I probably put about 10 hours into the whole process.
Hopefully it serves me well. At least until I decide to switch scopes and need to re-invent the wheel!
With as much work as it took, it makes the pricing on the commercially available models seem pretty reasonable.

Anyway, I figured I'd share the pics of the process. I always enjoy looking at projects like these.

All the best,
Brian

I've been doing a lot of shooting this summer and shooting a lot of different guns, and not a single one of them shoots H&N pellets well. In fact, Crosman domed pellets from Walmart beats H&N in every gun I own. What gives? I've heard and read of good results, but it's never the case with me. I have a Katran .177, an R10 .177, a Brk Sniper .22, a AR Challenger HFT and an HW100 .22 to name a few, and none of these are pellet picky at all, but none of them will shoot H&N well. I've tried FTT and Barracuda and even shot some match wadcutters in my Challenger 2021, which shoots almost anything well and no go.
What gives? This can't be the norm for H&N can it?

I just cannot figure out how to properly load a CS4 grease pot
i would like to see a picture of where exactly the grease and the rubber diaphragm go.
And how to retract the screw threads that force the gease into the compressor
Apologies
But sometimes simple things confound me
Thanks
Edward

I want to say first and foremost, I don't typically experiment with projectiles. I find one that works for me and stick with it. With that said, I have experiences really with only these two projectiles.

A few years ago, when I was tuning my Taipan Veteran Long .22, I tuned it to shoot JSB Hades. Everywhere I read, it states the BC is at around 0.026. I initially used 0.023 BC but I noticed that my shots have been consistently low. I finally decided to test it on my own and put the chronograph 30m down range. I was surprised to find that it was only 0.017 BC for the Hades. I used 0.017 and since then I haven't had to touch. The Sig Sauer laser rangefinder with ballistics calculator built in that I've been using has always been spot on with 0.017 BC and I've shot all the way out to 66 meters with this gun. Searching the forums, I've found at least one other person who posted that they got the exact same 0.017 BC for the .22 Hades when they tested themselves.

This morning, I started experimenting with slugs. I tested two sizes of the NSA .22 17.5gr slugs. The specs for this particular slug is 0.075 according to the NSA website. With the chronograph 31 meters downrange, I only got 0.043 BC.

For both the Hades and NSA calculations, I used the JBM Ballistics calculator and I input the proper ambient temperature, humidity, atmospheric pressure, and elevation. Funny enough, even when I used the calculator in Strelok Pro that only allows input for near and far velocities, I still got the same 0.043 BC for the NSA.

Could someone please inform me of what is going on? Even Hard Air Magazine got, I believe, 0.023 BC for the Hades with the LabRadar. How can I be so far off but still be on target???

Hi All,

Picked this up very recently and got a deal on a GRS version so snapped that up and moving this along.

FX Crown MK2 .22 700mm with a 700cc bottle.

Gun is in as new condition and bottle and valance were bought new less than 30 days ago.

Not much to say besides it shoots like a FX.

Will ship with one mag in hard case.

I would say 1300 and split shipping seems fair….

Scope, rings, Atlas bipod, bottle clamp, moderator not included in sale.

The hour meter on my compressor reads in tenths. Right now it reads 13.8
How do I convert this reading to hours and minutes?

Hello, I’m in the Portland area and new to the site. I got into air guns when some rat traps “didn’t meet specs”. I’m looking for places to shoot, people to shoot with and maybe some pest/invasive species control opportunities.

My arsenal is limited to a .25 Hatsan and a .22 American Classic but I’m looking to expand.

A couple years back I decided to have my D34 tuned and a Vortek kit installed. I shipped it to a reputable Smith and things were just groovy. Upon return the box was damaged but the gun looked fine. I mounted a scope and zeroed it. No problems. It shot beautifully.

A few weeks ago I decided to take the scope off and shoot it bare. When I zeroed the iron sights I noticed the back sight was screwed left almost to the limit. A quick check revealed the scope too was zeroed almost to the limits of the windage screw. A careful check with a straight edge showed a very slight, almost imperceptible bend to the right. It must have been damaged by UPS when they shipped it back. I just didn't realize it.

I did some research and decided to bend the barrel back to center. I made sure the front sight was plumb and centered the rear sight. I made up a maple jig that fit the barrel then set the whole mess in my bench vice and proceeded to add pressure.

A straight edge across the top from the front post through the rear sight told me exactly how much bend I was giving it. I would apply force until I got a bend and then test fired a pattern.

I started slow and the first few tries the barrel would just spring back to the same POI. But after a brief learning curve I started to make headway. The gun started out shooting 4" right at 10 yards. After 13 "bends" I got the pattern right in the middle of the dot.

I optically centered the scope using a mirror and mounted it on the rifle. It was 4 clicks right and 10 clicks low at 25 yards.

The entire process from making a jig to sighting the scope took less than 2 hours. The gun shoots as good or better than it did before. No affect on accuracy at all.

I sweated and fretted the first few bends. That barrel was WAY over to the left when I put pressure on the jig. But it sprang back nicely. When it was all said and done you couldn't tell it was ever bent. Now when passing a straight edge across the (centered) sights it comes across the center of the receiver at the rear. When I started the process it was at the extreme left edge.

I was so happy with the results I decided to bend a hatsan 95 barrel that had snapped up and bent. It was easy. 3 bends and it brought the POI back down to zero at 25 with an optically centered scope. The iron sights jibe perfectly. I didn't touch the scope adjustments at all to get zero. The rear iron sight is pretty much centered in its vertical travel. Horizontally it zeros exactly in the center.

What a hoot. I would have never thought you could bend a barrel back straight again with a stick and a vice. Well I was wrong. You can. It's not difficult at all and it's a bunch better than dealing with adjustable mounts and scope shims.

Attached is a photo of the rifle and the jig I made to straighten the barrel. Just a piece of maple cut to length with a lug at both ends. I cut a saddle in the front lug for the barrel. The rear lug is square and rests against the pivot block. It's as simple as clamping it in a vice and turning the handle until you think it bent a little. Then test firing and repeating until the rifle's POA and POI are in the same spot.

Re my Commander XR Magnum in 5.5mm:

I got it about 2 weeks ago. New. I spent 2 weeks testing virtually every pellet and slug in various head sizes and weights from 18.1gn to 33.956gn. I am obsessed with accuracy and shoot for an hour or three in my backyard at 50m. I demand very low single digit standard deviations in velocity. I am experienced in tuning.

I've managed to get my SDs where I want them but at 30m the all I get is 3/4" or 1" groups no matter what pellet or slug I use. I run my pellets at 888 fps or so and slugs at 1009 or so.

I've checked for loose screws and bolts, The barrel and shroud is tiht as it should be.

I've tested it with moderators on and off. (no difference)

This type of group is regardless of what ammo I am using and I've varied the speeds to see if that made a difference. It hasn't.

I've changed scopes, optical and digital to see if it was a mounting or scope issue. It isn't.

I clean my barrel every 100 to 200 pellets.

So far I've shot well over 1000 pellets/slugs with the Brocock/BRK Commander XR Magnum.

I am not shooting in moderate or strong wind.

I am looking for suggestions as to why can't I get the tight MOA groups that I usually get with my other PCPs

PS: I also have a Commander XR (not Magnum) in 5.5mm and I get MOA accuracy from it at 50m.

TIA.
#Brocock #CommanderXRMagnum #Accuracy #NotAccurate

I received this wonderful Cometa from Jon tuned and with a brass trigger! Mounted a Hawke 3x9 scope and ended up with a tack driver. Easy to cock and a pleasure to shoot!

I have a Beeman under lever with a composite stock. I'm looking to trade for or purchase a wood stock for the same. Mine is in great condition, no marks at all. Not a flimsy piece of plastic, pretty solid. Has a built in magazine holder. I'm just wanting to change things up a bit.
thanks
Mike

Check out this video of us taking the M4 out on a Prairie Dog hunt to see what they were capable of!


*Warning - video contains Hunting content*

I just mounted this Seals 6x24x50 scope on my QB78S rifle. And so far it’s a good combo.

Bone stock Notos and as my first mod I did the FX 500mm barrel kit. I chose the superior heavy liner as I plan to mainly shoot slugs. I haven't touched anything else but the barrel swap.

So I was shooting 15.4 gamo pellets @740ish and 23gr NSA slugs @ 650ish. After the 500mm kit I lost quite a bit of speed. The 15.4s are 660ish now and the 23gr are 550ish.

Any one have an idea as to why? More curious as to understanding why the loss in speed.

I plan to fully port and big bottle/reg swap too along with custom spring and hammer stuff too at a later point. So I know I'll pick up speed at a later point.

Max armory taking pre orders.