I got my wife a Gamo Swarm Fusion 10X GEN3i. She doesn't want me to teach her how to use (frankly she never listens to me so it might go poorly.) So, can anyone point me to suitable class or private instructor?

Thanks,

Gary

I've shot 3 squirrels in the back yard over 3 days giving me and left them lay to see if a coyote which we supposedly have a few of would come by to have dinner and give me a chance for my first coyote. Nope. No coyote. Yes to all 3 being dinner to a Redtail Hawk. I saw the hawk ripping apart the 1st. squirrel the next morning after I shoot it. After 8 minutes that Hawk flow off with the squirrel. This morning the 3rd. squirrel was gone but the Redtail Hawk apparently came back to see if I left him breakfast, I saw him sitting in one of the Oak trees. Great looking bird!!

I just joined the forum. Long time shooter with a reasonable amount of experience with springers about a decade ago. I just bought my first two PCP rifles and am starting down the rabbit hole again! Wish me luck!

Does anyone have a daystate huntsman classic in 22?

One of my cat children helping me weigh pellets.

This moderator is identical to one that we were testing. The testors blew up the other one when we were testing for destruction at 73 foot pounds. I had tested it at 60 when I shipped it to them. I tested this one at 65. That is all I can get out of my Condor as configured. I'd say this one is good for the long haul to at least 55 or 60 foot pounds. It is a good deal if you want it. I will replace with the newer/stronger design it if you blow it up on a rifle that is shooting under 70 foot pounds. I will want pictures, though. When these fail the endcap gets blown apart. We have never seen the carbon fiber fail at AG pressure levels. I don't think that is possible but I have not seen everything. Caveat Emptor.

Your call. $40.00 shipped CONUS only. Paypal (not friends and family).

Comes in a hard case with the two factory magazines and four Carm magazines. It also has the 4 slot magazine holder that is super handy. I will also include a Donnie FL probe along with the original probe. I've added a picatinny rail for a monopod. It's got a few light marks on the stock that I've tried to show in the pictures. It's shooting JSB Kings in the 890's and gets about 48 shots on a 230 bar fill. Pressure gauge went bad a couple of months ago. The replacement is slightly smaller than the original. Airgun has no leaks and is as accurate as any airgun I've ever owned. Priced at $800 FIRM shipped CONUS PP F&F or plus 3.5%. Bipod, scope, mount and monopod not included.

NIB. Removed to take a picture. Great little scopes I’m just clearing out some extras I purchased. MIL Reticle




$400 shipped

Thank you!

Up for sale is my FX Tarantula .22 Cal Very Nice Wood Needs New Seals metal is in very nice condtion to. Asking 650.00.

Up for sale is a nice edgun r5m, comes with three mags and two stocks, one in wood and one synthetic.. $1400 plus shipping and PayPal fees... OBO..

One of my all time favorite FX Impacts. This rifle started out life as a .25. Extremely heavy hitting, yet beautifully smooth operation, reliable, solid and above all, an absolutely great shooter. Has a wonderful trigger and the standard 20 MOA railing. No scratches, leaks or issues of any kind.











Comes with the full .25 conversion kit (probe, 700mm liner and high-capacity .25 caliber magazine)
Comes with high capacity .22 caliber magazine
Comes with a smooth twist X fully shrouded 700mm barrel
Comes with a Nightforce SHV 4-14x56 scope (C520 Heavy Duty Field Use). Adjustable focus from 10 yards to infinity
Comes with scope cap bikini
Comes with adjustable bi-pod
Comes with a .5L tank that holds air forever
Comes with upgraded FX cheek rest
Comes with 5 unopened tins of JSB 18.3g pellets (for which it is beautifully tuned)
Comes with an FX hard rifle case
Comes with the tank topped off to 220 bar.

$2350 for the package which includes CONUS shipping for the rifle and NightForce Scope (Separated)

BUYER to cover insurance if desired.

PP F&F, or you cover the fees.
PM with questions.

Thanks for looking!
-Jimmy

F/S HW50S as you see pictured. 177 caliber

Includes
-Maccari Muzzle break
-Clearidge Ultra RM (duplex)
-Soft Case
-BKL Riser Mount
-BKL rings

This rifle has less than 100 rounds through it. Originally it had bad dieseling but after that stopped the rifle surprised me with how accurate it was.. I don't have groupings but was seeing 1 ragged hole groupings at 25 yards the last time I took it out to the field.

The asking price is $330+ shipping but feel free to make me an offer. Would like to move this item quickly. Thanks!

Willing to trade for scopes / accessories or partial cash + trade. Not willing to trade for other airguns as I am trying to thin the heard

Anybody know what's happening at DonnyFL?

I went to their website to place an order earlier today and this is what comes up... I don't do "social media" and thought maybe someone or something would be known here?

Just thought it strange for the site to be down so long (still down as I post this)... Hope all is good for them.

Did the search and read through what little has been said about fire-lapping an airgun barrel. I'm often amazed at the collective knowledge we've got here and I'd guess we've got some (hopefully) experience-based insight amongst the members.....

So, I bought and had a barrel kinda-machined that I'd like to improve. It's an unchoked .22, meant to be a rather high-power output barrel, something like 45-55fpe would be plenty for me. (well, by my opinion of power cut-offs "high", many these days would consider it mid-power probably). Absolutely abysmal with slugs, pretty ho-hum with .22 MRDs, but better with them than slugs. Honestly would be pleased to get it to shoot a 23+ grain slug at a decent speed ACCURATELY, or the .22 Monster RD pellet better than it does now. Pushing anything through it gives a catch and grabby sensation the whole length, like "loose, tight, loose tight." Rifling engravings on pellets/slugs pushed through show that the lands are rough as your average section of asphalt (ROUGH!).

The first big improvement was when I gave it a leade. Prior to that it'd barely hit paper, and "chambering" a pellet took some oomph on the side lever. The crown could maybe use a little help, but it's not horrible.

I'm thinking of fire-lapping the dude, as there's not much to lose. I was planning on slathering some JB bore paste in the breech, mashing the heaviest slug I've got (most bearing surface) in behind the slug, and letting loose 15 or 20 times and then pulling the barrel, cleaning it up and then pushing a pellet through to see if it's still feels as stop and go as somebody learning to drive a stick like it does now. A friend suggested the Eun Jin/Seneca type pellets that essentially have lube grooves in the head (ala muzzleloader minie ball), so that it'll carry more abrasive agent.

Is JB bore paste abrasive enough to get anywhere by using it this way? If not, what would be a suggested alternative agent?

Anyone had success with improving a barrel in this manner?

Price: $825 no trades pls

Condition: good or 8.5/10

Shipping: CONUS only - buyer pays shipping and PayPal fees

Included: factory hard case, single factory magazine, aftermarket .22 cal fast loader, and factory fill probe


Before you is an FX Wildcat MK3 Compact .22 caliber in good pre-owned condition. I'm not the original owner/acquired on trade. The original owner made modifications to the stock and visible external hardware. Also, the original owner claimed the gun was tuned by Talon Tunes (900 fps) on JSB heavies. Overall, this is a great gun; however, I didn't bond with it as much as I thought I would. I'm currently trying to buy an AGT Uragan 2, which will replace this. Not much else to say; apologies for the pictures in advance.

Up for sale is my Venom Viper .22 Cal PCP .22 Cal Very Nice Wood Worked On By Jan Kranner. Jan Worked on the checkering and possibly the trigger doesn't look original to me. Asking 1000.00

I am confused. The FX Maverick barrel tensioning systems I've seen all look like they are trying to pull the entire barrel housing out of the gun. And as far as I can tell, the only thing keeping the barrel in the gun is a tiny set screw. I must be missing something and I hope someone can shine some light on this for me. It seems like the tighter you try to tension the barrel, the tighter you have to crank down the set screw into the barrel. Cranking the set screw into the barrel hard sounds really bad to me.

I would love to have a rock-solid barrel on my FX Maverick sniper 30 cal, but this is scary. I hope someone can make me not scared of tensioning my barrel.

grungy

Like new condition, come with 6 magazines, spare o-rings, original probe plus Donnie FL probe, picatinny rail added for bipod, very accurate, shoots JSB 18's average around 890 fps, JSB 16s in the 920's. Shoots both equally well, $900 shipped CONUS, PP F&F or plus 3.5%, scope, mounts and bipod not included

FYI, an article I wrote for Hard Air Magazine describing my favorite PCP, the .22 Kalibrgun Cricket mini-Carbine.

Link to HAM article

The aerodynamic stability of pellets is a grossly misunderstood subject, mainly it must be said due to misinformation on the internet in videos and articles by "experts". I have previously tried to explain the different types of stability used by pellets. Here I hope to be able to debunk a very common myth on pellet aerodynamic stability, and that is the myth that pellets are drag stabilized.

In a video by one of the leading air rifle video producers, he went to great lengths to explain pellet aerodynamic stability and how it differs from slugs. Unfortunately, he just repeated everything else which has been said before. Fig 1 below is close to one of his main diagrams and is typical of many diagrams used to explain drag stability on pellets.


Fig 1

The claim is that the drag pulls back on the pellet due to the centre of pressure (CP) being behind the centre of gravity (CG) thus making the pellet stable. This is complete bunkum based on a total lack of knowledge on the basics of aerodynamic stability. It also fails to explain why a wadcutter pellet is apparently still stable despite the vast majority of its drag being at the front rather than the back of the pellet, whereas a slug, which has most of its drag from the base, is not stable.

Before we get into the true aerodynamic stability of pellets, I need to explain a few basic definitions. First is the CP. On any projectile moving through the air but not pointing directly into the air flow over it, i.e. it is at an angle of yaw to the airflow, there are not just one or two aerodynamic forces acting on it. The air is working all over of the object, producing forces of differing sizes and directions everywhere on the object's surface. To simplify things we create an artificial point in the object where, if we sum all the different forces to produce one total force, we can say that if that total force were to act through that point it would produce the same force and moment about the centre of gravity as all the individual forces acting over the object (fig 2).


Fig 2

The other terms which need defining are lift and drag. Drag in particular is a commonly used term without many of its users knowing exactly what it is. In fig 2 you can see that I have drawn a force acting through the CP at an angle to the pellet. This single force is usually split up into two separate forces acting at right angles to each other, commonly referred to as lift and drag (fig 3).


Fig 3

The drag is defined as the force acting in the direction of the air flow, and the lift is the force acting at right angles to the air flow. The yaw angle of the pellet is not relevant, the lift always acts at right angles to the airflow and the drag in the line of the airflow. The lift is often shown as acting vertically, but on a projectile it can act up, down sideways or any combination of the directions which are at right angles to the air flow. It is the forces acting at right angles to the airflow which principally define the position of the CP, drag has very little effect.

Aerodynamic stability does not depend on forces. Aerodynamic stability is a function of the aerodynamic moments about the CG. Aerodynamic moments are derived from the product of the force multiplied by the distance between the CG and the line of action of the force. If a force acts through the CG it does not matter how large it is, it cannot produce a stabilizing or destabilizing moment as there is no distance between its line of action and the CG. This is something many presenters do not seem to understand, as they constantly talk about forces.

Pellets, like all unguided projectiles, can only be accurate if the yaw angles are kept small. In the case of pellets, it seems the angles need to be 1 degree or less after leaving the barrel. This means that the distance between any drag force line of action and the CG is minute. The line of action of the lift force going through the CP however is relatively very large, enabling the lift forces to produce stabilizing moments. The diagram (fig 4) shows the length of the relative distances if the pellet were at 5 degrees, i.e. five times greater than normal.


Fig 4

Now, some will argue that the drag at very low angles is much greater than the lift. This is true, but there is another problem about where the line of action for the drag force actually lies and which component of drag it is which could be providing any stabilizing moment. To look at this, it is convenient to look at the forces in another way.

When modelling pellet trajectories using the complex models or looking at pellet stability, it is rare that lift and drag are used. Instead, what are called normal and axial forces are used. The normal and axial forces are the same as the lift and drag, except that they use the pellet as the reference rather than the air flow direction, so the normal force is at ninety degrees to the pellet axis and the axial force acts along the pellet axis (fig 5). They give a better representation of the forces and moments acting on the pellet and make it easier to understand.


Fig 5

If you compare the two diagrams you can see that the normal force provides the majority of the lift and the axial force provides the majority of the drag and hence at small angles, because it acts directly through the CG, most of the drag cannot provide a stabilizing moment. It has been shown in wind tunnel tests that the axial force does not change in magnitude until large angles of yaw are obtained, so any change in drag at low yaw angles is caused by the tiny component of normal force acting in the drag direction. The normal force component acting in the drag direction is going to be much smaller than the component acting in the lift direction, thus making any stabilizing moment contribution from the drag minute.

Some people have tried to explain drag stability by claiming that when a pellet is at yaw, the frontal area is greater as the air will be able to hit more of the flare than it could see before, thus producing a correcting force on the flare. If your pellet was travelling at 6000ft/sec in the upper atmosphere, this argument would have some validity. The subsonic aerodynamics of pellets work in a totally different way through suction forces, not high pressure impact forces.

This is why the correct term is flare stabilized, not drag stabilized as it is the lift produced by the flare which gives the dominant stabilizing moment, not the drag and certainly not as in fig 1. True drag stabilization requires a completely different type of stabilizing device, which you wouldn’t want on your pellets.

Backyard baby deer working mom over for a meal

So I thought I had a killed lined up, but come to find out it's a decoy. WTF! What's your theory?

Ostensibly, the Crosman 600 was the first semi automatic pellet pistol, and came around in the 60's, but what was the first semi automatic pellet rifle?

I got the rare Google "Oh, that's not on the internet, please help us to get an answer" response when I googled it.

So, what was it?

It's that time of year again. Early sunsets, cool temps, and 10meter springers in the garage, at 10 meters.

Now, don't get me wrong, I don't spend the whole winter shooting in the garage, but a couple times a month I'll have a short little offhand session. And these two are the guns of choice for such action.


Top one is an FWB300, stamped with Daisy markings. OEM diopter sights, other than a round ring in the front end, rather than the typical post. Quite accurate method, centering the round rear ring with the round front ring all with the bull concentrically placed in the middle. Essentially lining up three circles. Makes my OCD happy, and the brain and eye coordination just want to do it.

Bottom is an FWB300s "Mini" with a compact little 4x UTG scope that'll focus down to 5 yards. Perfect for this.

With the diopters (no magnification) I can't see how I did til I go up and check it out. I'm typically pleased.
With the 4x on the Mini I can pretty well tell where they're landing.

I'm no Olympic level offhand shooter, but I do enjoy a laidback session like the above-described. Usually only take 20-30 shots from each gun, and that's how it went this evening. Good fun.

Upper left was the 300, upper right was the 300s Mini.


And the paper pulled back to show the fresh cardboard target backer tells the tale a bit better.


If I was an urban prisoner, with the typical 30 yard max back yard, and with no field target of any sort within driving distance, I think I could be perfectly content with these two and a much more simple airgun experience, sans tanks and high end optics and shot counts and magazines and dope and sidewheels and bipods and shooting sticks and hamsters and harnesses and compressors and fittings and gauges and moderators and shrouds and hoses and fill stations and orings and every pellet and slug known to man.

Simple is good (sometimes).