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PCP Rifle  SOLD $1070 Split ship U2 700MM .22

Just upped the reg 1/5 of a turn from 125b it was shooting around 940-945fps with 25gr .218 Han HP2. It is now shooting them between 993fps and 1002fps. At the setting of 125b I was getting over 100shots per fill. I haven't checked with this tune but I'm pretty sure it's around 80 shots per fill, it also really likes 30gr HN HP2. Green stock has 2 small spots with superficial scratches and another 3/4" superficial scratch. I did install an STO shroud damper and it certainly works.



Selling with GREEN stock for $1070 split shipping , or trade for Uragan 2 .177 / .22 600mm, Vulcan 3 .177 500mm

Scope, base, and bipod not included.



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Umarex  Notos...my notos can't group heavier slugs

Has anyone experienced very inconsistent groups with heavier slugs? I've tried about 10 different pellets and 5 different slugs and best I've found for mine is the 13.43gn JSB's.

Everything else groups like poop.

I don't mind shooting the 13.43's but would be nice for some heavier options. Thought it had something to do with the feeding, seems to be rough loading anything but the 13.43gn but tried single loading and no different.

Any thoughts? Stressing me the f*&% out

These pics are from only 20 yards and the circles are 1/2" ...so I don't understand how they can be so bad at only 20 yards.. I've taken quail twice at 50+ yards with the 13.43gn but even at 35yards anything heavier than the 13.43gn the groups are horrendous.

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These are the speeds I'm shooting at, didn't chrono the 15.89 though

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N/A  Update! Bought a Taipan Vet 2 standard (700mm)——AGT Uragan 2, Vulcan 3, Taipan Vet 1 and 2, AirMaks Katran etc (Did my research but need help)

Update:

Bought this Taipan for Derrick Wall




Any recommendations for scope and rings? Prefer a 24x scope that is light weight too. FFP or SFP doesn’t matter because I shoot at fixed magnification.

Can I get away with a 50mm objective scope and low mounts or stick with medium?







Hi everyone and happy holidays and happy new year!

Need help picking a .22 PCP from the vast sea of options.

I already have a .30 FX Wildcat MK3 I purchased in March of 2024 and it has done great by me for its intended purpose (racoon, fox and squirrel hunting). However, shooting a .30 for smaller pests and general plinking is not viable (cost wise and power wise its too much).

I read some reviews and general user experience input here on AGN about the AGT Uragan 2, V3, Taipan Vet 1 and 2, Katran offerings and here is what I saw as pros and cons:

1) Uragan 2, well built, accurate, can shoot pellets and slugs but due to the regulator not easily adjustable without a tool to measure it seems to be a no go for me because I do not want to tinker. (Unless it can be set-up right from some of the sellers , i.e Tony from Talon Tunes, Derick Wall, etc)
2) Vulcan 3, similar to Uragan 2 in terms of power and built quality but perhaps the decision comes down to which one I prefer based on design and ergonomics. For those who have experienced both, please provide pros and cons.
3) Taipan Vet 1 or 2, great built quality, heavy gun, easy to adjust due to external hammer adjustment, can shoot slugs and pellets. Seems like a great choice. Not sure where to buy from because I want it set-up to shoot either slugs or pellets that give it best accuracy out to 80 yards.
4) AirMaks Katran, there seems to be many offering. Some are long rifles other are small bullpup style. Do not know much about them but from some reviews I read they are excellent quality rifles. Could use some input on if these will serve my purpose of plinking and small pest control (can they shoot both slugs and pellets well?) Are they easy to adjust/tune?

So having said that, I prefer small rifles and will mostly be shooting from inside my room (my set-up allows me to shoot from my room to the backyard where by targets will be set-up.

Important to me: .22 cal, if it can be configured to shoot slugs with the same or better accuracy as pellets out to 70-80 yards (max range) I am game. If pellets will do the job in .22 out to this range for plinking and be able to take squirrels then I am okay with skipping on slugs. Easy to work on if needed, I do not want to have to tinker with tunes if it can be set-up right from the seller. Excellent trigger, low noise/bark (my FX .30 is loud on full power 80 ft lbs even with a moderator).

Thanks for your guidance because I am a little lost because of all the options out there.
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Math is Important - just a long rant

I understand where the misconception comes from. If you personally never need to do a thing, that it can't be that important and doesn't affect you. But that's just not how math works. Or science and physics for that matter. It doesn't need your approval, understanding, or acknowledgment to exist and have the impact and truth that it does. Math is a universal language that gives numerical representation of the physical world. We can get rid of every spec of information and data we have uncovered about math, every law we've written down. Over time, all of those discoveries, equations and laws would be rediscovered and relearned.

I say all of that to get to the point that I had a back and forth with a pb youtuber that knows what they're talking about, he made sure to tell me. This fella had the stance that it is a myth that MOA is more precise that MIL. I pointed out that it is incorrect, that at 100 yards, 1/10 MIL is 0.36" and 1/4 MOA is 0.26", and that there are even more precise scopes that have a 1/8 MOA adjustments. The smaller the adjustments the more precise the measurement. This went about as well as it normally does. He quickly resorted to insults and "I do this for a living" and "you don't know anything about shooting" and my favorite was "You can sit there with your calculator and basic knowledge of .26 @100 vs .36 @ 100 and be wrong or you can go prove it to yourself or me in the real world." I wanted so much to explain to him that math and calculators and pi are the reason he is able to do the things he does. I thought for sure, being that close with that last one he would get it, but no. He pointed me to another of his videos as proof, it even had a test. The test was shoot 5 - 5 shot groups and then somehow measure the point of aim of those groups, not the point of impact, and then to see if the point of aim moved more than the most precise adjustment of your scope. If it did then the shooter had no need for those adjustments because they could not take advantage of them. This is a completely different point, but also very false. And to me that reads like, "I can't do it, so it's not possible."

I don't know how to explain or prove that a smaller measurement is more precise. You don't measure the width of a house with miles? You don't measure caliber with kilometers? I struggle to explain this, because it is so obvious to me. It's kind of like prove that 2+2=4... It's right there.. it just is. How?. I know that these type of proofs get done in math, but they are done at such a level that it completely flies past the average person, me included. So any type of explaination of that sort is probably out of the question.. I dunno.

But to the test that was proposed and why I say it is false too. Let's start with 100 shot group. This only works if you don't aim at your impact. So I aim off with stadia a few inches off center. You have to maintain a small target and point of aim for this. The more you incorporate field conditions, the more accurate the results you will get doing this. By that I mean, don't shoot all these shots on the same day. Same target, but different temps, time of day, etc. Eventually you will end up with a large round hole. This large hole is the shooting capability of you + gun + ammo + scope on any given day in conditions of your choosing. You may shoot better than that one large group often, but you will pretty much never shoot worse with that equipment in those conditions. This is the outer bounds. Not Center-to-center. That is for paper not hunting. Now you have your effective kill zone at that yardage. (I also have thoughts on "kill zones" - target the acutal organ size not roughly where it is.) So at 50 yards, if every shot went into a circle that measures 1 inch, then you are A-OK to shoot at any live target larger than 2 MOA at 50, cause you know you are going to hit the target area 100 out of 100 times. You still need to understand the actual size of targets, like a squirrel head is about 3x the size of a squirrel brain. So you should be aiming at a 0.5" target not a 1.5" target. Makes a big difference in your success rate. I don't know if this is where aim small miss small comes from, but the adage very much applies. But, this also means that since you shoot 2 MOA at 50, you are not qualified to shot a squirrel in the head, you would need to be able to shoot 1 MOA or bring the distance in to 25.

Now to get your aim dead on for hunting, it is going to take some time. This is where cold bore shots come into play. I understand this is a pb term, but it applies to air too. You only get one first shot. That is the most important one to make sure goes exactly where you want it to go. I do one or 2 of these a day when sighting, i.e. shoot the single cold bore shot, then let the gun sit for several hours so the reg stabilizes (not as important a wait for non-regged guns). Basically we want the gun to be in the same first shot condition each time on this target, then take the next cold bore shot at a new target. I like to draw a 3 rows of 6 or 7 half inch crosses on a sheet of printer paper. Only when I can hit all 20 odd of those at that distance consecutively, do I call that gun - ammo combo good for hunting. Anything beyond that is paper or gongs only. I know this strict demand of accuracy for hunting is not widely held, but it's what I do.

Now we get to why his test doesn't prove anything. You have your 100 shot group. He postulates that because this group is the size that it is, you will never be accurate enough to make any adjustments once that group gets on target. So if you have a 2 MOA group and you are aming at a 1/8 MOA target, once you adjust the group to just barely be covering the target, there is no more precision that can be gained. This is wrong. You want the center of your 100 shot group to be your aim point and you need to adjust your scope until that is the case. A shooter that shoots a 3" group at 10 yards can absolutely take advantage of moving that group 1/8 inch per click, just like they could moving it 1 inch per click. Once they get their point of aim centered over their point of impact they will have a higher number of hits on a smaller target than otherwise. Reasons for this gets into law of averages, statistical distributions, and barrel harmonics. I don't know if this accurately gets my point across, and I may make a video or at least some pics to better demonstrate if it will help anyone, but I think I've rambled enough for now.

TLDR: 1/4 MOA is a finer adjustment than 1/10 MIL and therefore is more precise, and even if you are incapable of shooting 1/4 MOA groups, you can still benefit from having fine adjustments on your scope.

Daystate  Converting an Alpha Wolf into a Delta Wolf?

I saw on YouTube a Daystate rep coverting a Daystate Delta Wolf into an Alpha Wolf using a conversion kit. I want to do the opposite and covert my Alpha Wolf into a Delta Wolf. Does anyone sell such a conversion kit? I contacted AOA where I purchased the rifle and they say that they have a couple of the parts but I would not be able to get the necessary screws/bolts.

Has anyone successfully converted their Alpha Wolf into a Delta wolf, and if so, where did you get all the parts?

I appreciate any help.
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Effect of Wind on Pellet

I am beginning to shoot HFT and have a few very basic questions about the effect of wind on pellets. Do pellets react to wind direction the same as, let’s say, a .22 rimfire bullet or do they act differently due to their shape? I understand that the best way to evaluate the effect of wind is by shooting sighter shots, but would like to have a rough idea as to where a pellet would most likely hit given the direction the wind. I’m not looking for a cookie cutter approach, but rather gathering as much information as possible. Thanks, Tom

FX  New member- please help with my new fx dreamline lite 30 cal- i have ton of questions but no answers..

Hi guys

Gregory from Germany says hallo- great to be here..

I just purchased today online my first fx dreamline lite in 30 cal. I only have a springer Weihrauh 85 and old daisy pcp but its crappy.. So i got the 30 cal because here in germany we only have 2 options for dreamline- the .177 cal (4.5mm) and the 30 cal (7.62mm) that the state approved but ofcourse it is limited to 7.5j or 5.5 foot pounds so its a joke..

But ok, included are the original hammer and transfer port knob so within minutes i can have it up to full open version specs which are by 30 cal around 110j or 82 ft lbs... of course its not legal in germany but holland is 2 hour drive so i can do it there legally:) holland has no stupid limits..

i always wanted to have a .22 cal but as you already know- we can not get the fx dreamline in that caliber- only .177 or .30 cal.. so i got the bigger one..

Now i am terrified of the .30 cal or to be more precise of the air consumption on that beast and would love to convert to .22 cal

and i have no clue what to buy- some wrote that i need a conversion kit with .22 barrel and shroud, others that i need the new .22 push pin, others said i need a new transfer ports and so on.. i am totally confused! i want to convert but dont know how or what to buy.

i want to go the .22 route but i want to have the MOST power available for that dreamline platform in .22 cal with heavy slugs form H&N 36gr..
then i will not be scared of the huge air consumption that the .30cal has.. it will be a fun target shooter but also good hunting rifle with heavy slugs

can someone help me- someone who did such conversion from 30cal down to .22cal and maxed out the power with mods for fx platform?

thanks guys

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  • Question
Admin, any way to get pass the 10 day 10 post thing to use the classified section?

Admin, any chance you can wave the 10 day 10 post thing?
I been a member for years. I haven't been on in about a year and my email for my first account is full and can't empty it. Baby Sherman was my old account. I had to make a new account.
Trying to access the classified section.
Any help admin, is much appreciated.
Thanks

PCP Rifle  NLA Matt Dubber + Utah Airguns SPECIAL EDITION High Power FX Impact - 70+ FPE .22

Selling my Impact mk2 Matt Dubber slug gun, as set up by Utah Airguns. Currently tuned for 34 gr. slugs @ 980 f/s, 73 ft/lbs energy at muzzle. Devastating on small game. Ships with case and all the spare parts it originally sold with. It is in near perfect condition, has two small marks on it, size of a grain of sand. I purchased this in 1/21 new for $2900.00, asking $1200.00 for it.

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PCP Rifle  WTS Daystate Wolverine Forester HP R .25 Cal. **Updated 3/26/25

Daystate Wolverine Forester HP R .25 Cal. $1500

Comes with:
  1. 2 Daystate Magazines
  2. 1 Daystate Single Shot Tray
  3. Convenient, soft, pull string felt pouch to conveniently store your mags and SST
  4. DonnyFL Sumo
Bought from a fellow member last summer ( 2024 ). Beautiful rifle and extremely accurate. I prefer my 25cal bullpups so this rifle deserves a new home.
Scope and bipod not included.

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The following images are from the previous owner.
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Finally made a swaging die that doesn't stink...very much

Turns out die making is hard! who would have thought. I think I finally have a die that makes half decent slugs. Definitely not going to give any of the really slugs out there a run for their money but a big win for me. I can get about a 1.5" group at 50yrds with my airarms Krait. Baby steps.

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Couple of my takeaways:

  • The diameter of the slug mattered more than the profile or general shape
  • Deeper hollow points tended to do better
  • Taking the time to harden the dies properly was well worth the time as it made them much easier to polish. (will likely help with longevity as well)
  • The overflow extrusion hole should be no bigger than 3/32 to create enough pressure to fully fill out your die.
  • Making a slug that shoots well for everyone is probably not possible. Barrel bore, and the tune need to be factored in when designing a die/slug.
  • If you use swaging lube its worth the time to washing your slugs after.
I'm not experienced enough to state any of the above with confidence but they tend to be true with my limited experience.



These are all the dies that I made before I got one that makes half decent slugs :cautious:

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