Hi everyone!!
I'm new here and would like to put up a discussion on DIY airguns built with some AliExpress parts.
For now, I don't own any big branded airguns. Neither PCP nor break barrel as the place I live in doesn't have much suppliers. So, my only option (sort of) is to buy locally made action blocks and put together with some AliExpress parts. The things I outsource mainly are action block, AliExpress Z valve with regulator (sometimes that comes with paintball regulator), and high pressure air aluminium bottles (from AliExpress or some online shops in SEA). Barrels, I made myself with some 5.5mm bore carbon steel hydraulic pipes with AliExpress rifling button pushed through with an hydraulic jack. No choke, no tapered bore what so ever. Stress released with a propane torch and polished the rifled barrel with metal polish. Crown made with a countersunk bit and used multiple grades of sandpapers to get it smooth. Checked crown using cotton swab method. It shoots great with 0.5-1 inch groups at 50 meters. My set up is a 13 inch barrel with regulator pressure set at 2000 psi which I really don't wanna crank up anymore because with 3500 psi in reservoir, I'm only left with 1500 psi head room which I get around 45 good shots. The AliExpress regulator have sort of like a small plenum area built into their Z valve although I don't know how much cc I get from that. Shooting 22 cal 18 grain pellets, I get only 750-765 fps (22-23.4 ft-lb of energy) which I feels too weak for my liking. I tried to tweak with regulator set point and hammer spring tension. Installed multiple thickness sizes of HDPE spacer on the valve stem to get consistent valve stem travel distance to get consistent airflow. The transfer port on the valve is around 3.5-4mm. hammer spring is a spring that I got from my lil brother's cheap Chinese airsoft gun which I can adjust using a screw in the middle of spring stop in the back. With everything explained as far as I can, my question is how do I get more velocity/power without changing barrel length and is the power I got is maximum that I can get with current set up which I feels not really because according to the equation I've read somewhere, the maximum power = bore volume x pressure / 12. According to that equation, my maximum power should be around 80ft-lb which is nearly 4 times what I'm getting right now. So, my target power is around 45-50 ft-lb.
As a side note, I got velocities using cheap Chinese AliExpress Chrono which I find a bit not trust worthy. I also tried calculate (or estimate) the velocity using strelok app using POI drop which gave me nearly 1025-1040 fps.

Attached file descriptions.

1. AliExpress valve and regulator with small plenum area with red arrow.

2. My shooter with a shroud and regulator on.

3. My DIY barrel bore

I've often heard some of you advising people to cut 1 - 1 1/2 coils off a spring to bring the power level down. If a person was to do this, how would he close or flatten the end? Just grind it to be a ground open end?

Or do you you just leave it open? (That sounds barbaric to me.)

I searched on YouTube, and all of the solutions I found there required special machines.

This page has some interesting ideas:


How or what do you folks do, or recommend?

--

Full Disclosure: I'm not likely to actually ever try this. But even as a boy, I wanted to learn machining and metal work; but I was too proud to pursue it. Life has humbled me a bit, thank God, but now I'm in a situation where I'm not likely ever to be able to pursue that. But I still find things like this interesting / intriguing ... and I'm curious.

Thanks for bearing with me.

Like New Weihrauch HW97 Blue Laminate 22cal
-Tuned with Maccari (ARH) tune kit and Vortek Piston seal last fall myself.
-Extremly smooth, better and slightly more powerful than stock version.
Power ranging from 16 foot pounds with lead to 19 foot pounds with non-lead pellets. (With less than 250 rounds through it.)
-Also comes with Eagle Vision moderator adaptor, and Brass screw cups
-Gun has scratch on the metal at the front of the stock.
Price for Tuned gun and original spring and piston seal is $625 shipped.
**Optional Weihrauch 3x9-40ao scope and Sportsmatch medium mounts. $750**
If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me on here or call or text me at 865-776-385zero.
I have tuned many springers over the years and can answer your questions.
Thanks,
Jason







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Does anyone have experience with the Urugan 2 that could shed some light. This is another possible purchase for myself as I am doing my research,and see things I like. Does anyone had. experience shoot small game maybe even targets with it? Id like some hands one user info pls

Selling my massive 4 pound valdada anvil bipod, picatinny attachment, has cant as well.

New $700

Asking $425 shipped. Zelle or venmo preferred but PayPal can work, just more of a hassle for me.

A little background first. I was cranking up the power the other day as stated in the owners manual, a quarter turn with each shot. With a Donny FL Emperor on it, from the factory it was whisper quiet, still using the air that it came with. As I shot in rapid succession with a quarter turn after each the power started going up noticeably. I was getting excited and then it ran out of gas so to speak. The last shot there was a noticeable difference, something like a clang or thump combined, I wasn't watching and I had dropped below the recommended minimum pressure. So I went and filled it up to about 4800psi with helium and took it outside again, the first shot was much louder than I had expected. But not from the gas release, it was supersonic. Well I couldn't do that any more without one of the neighbors pitching a fit. so that led to the test I'm about to describe. Nothing special, in my shed to muffle the sound further and also eliminate the sonic crack because of the short distance between the muzzle and the log I shot it into. This time I filled to just over the line into red at about 35.5 MPa or 5149 psi The first shot was 1368 FPS, 2nd shot was 4786 psi and 1322 FPS, 3rd shot was 4424 PSI with an ERR for speed, 4th shot was 4061 PSI and 1230 FPS, 5th shot was 3625 PSI and 1174 FPS. After that it dropped to subsonic. Even after it went subsonic with the Emperor it was still abnormally loud. So I have a question, do you have to degas to adjust the other direction? With my FX Impact, and I forget which way it was but you could only go in one direction without degassing. The manual said a quarter turn to increase power but didn't say anything about lowering power. I'd rather not degas if I don't have to.

Played around with the snowpeak M60B today. I had a couple of things done to the gun. Lighter Valve spring, also cut off two coils of the factory hammer spring then added a nylon washer as spring spacer, set the reg pressure at 135 bar. Right now it's sending out 25gr H&N slugs at 845 fps average and 18gr jsbs at 940 average. Very very accurate after I tightened the shroud end cap. The end cap is rather interesting I think it also works as a barrel tensioner. Here's the result.

Some while ago, my wife and I decided to do what we could to make my airgun hobby lead-free, to cut down on the lead and its by-products inside our home, as well as out in the wide, wild world, where lead pollution already is a huge problem. Since I shoot primarily with pumpers and CO2 airguns indoors, I don't have much trouble with the decision, other than the much higher cost, since finding lead free pellets suitable for indoor target shooting isn't that big a deal. Unfortunately however, that's not the case when it comes to pest control and/or hunting. On top of there just not being all that many choices when it comes lead-free pellets, they're all very light in weight, which at first blush might be seen as a big benefit. Sure, you'll get more distance and fps with lead free pellets (typically, that's what airgun manufacturers use to achieve the artifically high fps numbers they advertise, even when it means sacrificing any hope of real accuracy), but that light weight also means less whomp (fpe) on impact and penetration, if you're hunting small game or trying to eliminate pest animals, and that can be a problem. Aside from the lower energy, these faster, lower-weight pellets also can be apt to go right on through a critter, which isn't always a good thing. Yes, shot placement is always critical, especially when the goal is killing an animal as quickly and painlessly as possible, but even a great shot that goes straight through can mean a longer, drawn-out, painful death for the hapless target animal, which hopefully isn't what you're (ahem) shooting for. So, what to do? Just concentrate on perfect shot placement with lead free pellets and hope for the best, or forget your decision to be lead free altogether and go nuclear with a much heavier lead pellet for the job? A perfect head shot on something like a small rat or tiny, invasive bird species probably won't be much of a problem regardless of pellet weight, fps or total fpe, but as the size of an animal increases, so does the benefit of more impact energy, even with good shot placement. The choice of different weights and types of lead free pellets for even the most popular .177 and .22 caliber airguns already is incredibly limited, but what about bigger game? Imagine how bad things must be for medium and large game airgun hunters wanting to go lead free! So.. what lead free ammo in what caliber(s) are you using, or do you just forget even trying? What's a lead free wannabe to do? What are your thoughts on the matter?

edgun leshiy classic ,can be sub 12 power or hi power and can be switched to 350mm barrel or 250mm and can swapped to any of 4 calibers in minutes , This gun being sold as a package Not splitting up and No trades ,This kit will have every option made for this gun , very accurate great carry gun , downsizing my collection
here is what it will includes
1,edgun lessiy classic with stock grip
2, edgun west wood grip
3.huma hi power regulator and large plenum
4, sub 12 regulator and valve
5 donny fl upgraded moderator kit
6 extra grips
7, barrels
.177 barrel 250MM
.22 barrel 350MM
.25 barrel 250MM
.357 barrel 450MM

].extension kit to use the 350mm and 450mm barrel
11. kit to use a donny fl I used this with a big donny with the ,357 barrel
price $1575 PAYPAL F&F shipped no offers or trades accepted
Here is a picture of gun and parts included

$900 firm shipped comes with mag and fill probe and charger for digital regulator gauge and case. Lazer gun.

FX Power Pup with Hawke Scope

This air gun was gifted to me and I have no use for it. It still has the original air fill in it from when I got it. I've put less then 10 shots through it. I have 2 magazines for it and a few packs of FX slugs to go with it.

$1000 without scope
$1800 with scope

Located in S.E. Michigan

Check this out

Guys, this is not something I do often - I know nothing about the seller, and have no interest in the transaction.

But there is a nice-looking, LEFT-handed HW 55M up on the infamous auction site now. Prettier than average wood grain, maybe 90% condition. Serial number from 1970. It has no sights (would need the older HW diopter with 13mm dovetail), but does have a rare 400-gram barrel sleeve.

This is only the second southpaw HW 55 stock I've ever seen.

I picked up a few goodies from the BRK / Daystate shop on their stand at the British shooting show. I’ll hopefully be fitting and swapping everything over the next few days. So I’ll be able to report back to you shortly.
Did anyone else pick anything up if you attended ? I saw a lot of BRK ghost cases being carried about, nearly every stand selling air rifles had them to buy with some very good deals to be had

Taking a huge step back from airguns, to focus on things that matter more in life to me. Airguns have become too much like work for me so I am selling all but 2 of my rifles.

The rifle for sale in this thread is my Evol Mini .22 that has never failed me. It has been field used but VERY WELL KEPT!!! It has a custom Wylie Kanz Titanium Carbon Fiber Moderator and Titanium moderator adapter that cost ($300) as well as the magpul foregrip and PRS LITE stock.

The rifle is super accurate currently tuned shooting 18.13 JSB at 845 fps very consistently.

Rifle will be shipped with factory moderator as well as 2 carm mags and 1 factory mag, and the custom fit hardcase.

I am asking $2030.00 (the 30 is to cover shipping) shipped for the rifle.

The athlon Helos BTR and NF xtreme duty 6 bolt rings that are currently on it can stay on the rifle for another $470.00 (smoking deal as thats a 725 dollar setup recently purchased new) for a total of $2500.00 shipped.

First group is 5 at 35, second group is 22 at 35, the rifle is super accurate.

As a long-time FT match director, I give that advice a lot. But being allergic to puzzles, and also now a septuagenarian, I probably don't practice that sermon as consistently as I preach it. That so, the lesson was just reinforced; much to my dismay.

This morning an FT buddy who will go unnamed (starts with a D and a W) texted a photo of his lovely new, laminated-wood stocked Hunter Class rig, complete with matching knee-riser. Not having (re-)read the AAFTA rules in the last few decades, I poked fun at said knee-riser insinuating he'll be shooting Open Class; the insinuation being a self-preservation tactic in case I was mistaken in thinking knee-risers are exclusively an Open Class thing.

Wasting no opportunity to correct the Rules Nazi match director, said FT buddy made the most of the opportunity to poke fun back at me... of course with interest! In such situations any self-'respecting'(?) FT shooter will automatically default to the adage, "The best defense is a good offense". But lacking a GOOD offense, One must rely on any defense close at hand.

Hence, in typical Me fashion I fabricated as obnoxious an offense as possible for a lazy man to cobble together in quick response/retaliation. "I have a nice knee-riser/stabilizer that I bought years ago in an antique store. It was mis-labeled 'Model A jack'.















Not sure he appreciated the humor.

.

My intention being on a target/small game and local competition rifle in .22
I am stuck between 3 air rifles being the 500-600 Panthera,M3 impact, and the VP Maverick. I am shying way from the slug shooters as I can't rationalize needing to shoot them. I've done my research on all 3 and being top of the line equipment I feel I can't go wrong.Im just stuck on what would be the best bang for my buck between the 3

Taking a huge step back from airguns, to focus on things that matter more in life to me. Airguns have become too much like work for me so I am selling all but 2 of my rifles.

The first one up for sale is my Paradigm .30 , bought new in July of 23, tuned to shoot 44.75 at 870-880fps, very accurately, very nicely. This rifle is sub .5 MOA at 100 yards shooting 1 full magazine CONSISTENTLY EACH TIME if you do your part.


There are many threads ive written up about this rifle and it is in excellent condition, 99.9% like new.

If you want it ready to shoot as is shown in the photo it will come with

-The Valdada G2 Mini MIL with Valdada rings, shade, and caps. This setup would cost you $2700 , it was bought the same day as the paradigm.
-Valdada Anvil Bipod also bought the same day as the paradigm and cost $700

New this whole setup would cost you $6500.00

I am asking $5300.00 shipped anywhere in the lower 48 on my dime. I am not interested in trades and if you are truly serious we can talk.

If you don't want the Bipod take $400 off so $4900.00 shipped for rifle ready to shoot no bipod.

If you want the rifle itself, the price is $2550.00 shipped, this rifle is worth it!!! the rifle costs $3100 plus shipping new.

Rifle will come with savior tactical case as new from AoA along with 2 magazines (1 I picked up used and never used it)

My feedback is perfect, deal with confidence. I would prefer to chat on the phone before purchase. Prefer Venmo and Zelle but can finangle paypal if need be.

So I had a 357 Taurus awhile back. And it was a machine. Is there any other 357 that could compare to that?? I want to buy another 357 but unsure or should I just order another Bulldog and send it to Brian? Thought please

Hello Gents, I’m trying for the speed that seems to be mentioned as “Best” velocity for the AVS & ZAN 33 & 34 gr. Slugs. Today I went from 140 Bar to 160 Bar on the regulator and gained 60 fps… Before was 925 and now 985. This is with the Hammer adjustment turned All the way in until Just able to engage Sear with quite a bit of finish effort on the cocking lever. (That spot seems to be about 5.75 rotation In from all way backed out to hit the stock)

I have read a few accounts of wanting to get those 33-34 slugs up to 1,010-1,020 fps to maximize their accuracy at 100 Yds.

Unfortunately, have to leave town for this week but when back next WE I’ll go the last little step to Max. Rated 170 Bar on the reg. and see what I get.

Info point, it looks like probably 2 Bar per shot at 160 reg. If 50 bar divided by 25 shots holds true. ( edited as I noticed earlier screw-up… 50 bar drop not 500!!)

ANY / ALL comments, tips, helpful input Encouraged.

Thanks and updates to follow next week.

Good day
I need some advice please. I bought a new Fx impact 700mm .22 m3 fitted with a slug liner and slug kit (pinprobe/tungsten hammer and lighter valve return spring)
The 1st reg is on 150 bar and the 2nd reg on 108 bar. Shooting 25 grain 218 H&N slugs 984 fps and grooping is very good at 100 meters. Hammer on 12, mico at 3.75 and the valve 3 turns out. Shooting 30 grain H&N at 935 fps but with a problem

The problem i have is, once you open the valve 4.5 turns and put the hammer on 16 and shoot a shot there's an air leak at the rear end at the magazine/power block rear/barrel area ONLY when you pulling the cocking lever back to load a slug. You can hear it clearly it is not the plenum filling with air. Once you push the cocking lever forward the leak stops. If you turn the valve in say to line 3 the leak stops.
If you just pulling the cocking lever back without shooting a shot, there is no leak. The gun is also not leaking air when standing for days.
Could it be the lighter valve return spring, causing the valve to stay open longer.
Would you recommend to put the stronger original valve return spring back.
Regards

Has anyone ever tried simply removing the Front Guide from a ProSport, and reassembling it with the stock FAC spring without it, to bring the power level down?

If so, did it cause any problems?

How much did it bring it down to?

I'm wondering if this is a cheap and easy way to bring our .177 cal. PS down to around 12 ft/lb.

I had the chance to attend the British Shooting Show as part of the DonnyFL/Saber Tactical team this weekend and have some videos coming out on this playlist that some may find interesting.
PJ Clarke

$25 shipped. It’s been used, but still functions. Has graduations up until 315 bar! Used to be on an Impact M3

Without breaking the bank, what's the best bang for the buck on a pistol these days? Probably .22 cal, maybe .25 cal. Something I can walk around with and not alarm people when I whip it out to shoot varmints at close range.