Prosport in a CS500 stock with custom colours

Anyone else still get freaked out dealing with the high pressure air in PCPs? Sometimes I wonder if I picked the wrong hobby or this is something that goes away over time. I just finished a barrel polish on my Rattler. Reassembled the whole thing, screwed the valve back in the CF 580cc tank, applied fresh silicone grease and then screwed the tank back onto the gun. Hooked up a 9L tank and turned on the gas, heart rate jumped a bit when I heard the “click” even though I knew it was coming . Heard a hiss, knew it had a leak and noticed it looked like the silicone grease was blown out from one spot where the bottle valve connects with the gun. Tried hand tightening a bit more and it reduced the sound but it was definitely still there. Dropped from 200 bar to empty in an hour. Okay, used my saber tactical degassing kit to clamp around the tank so I could tighten it even more. Also tightened (with my hand), the second regulator gauge as there was a super slow leak from that prior to performing any work.



While doing so, I can’t help but be concerned about-

1. Damaging the tank by applying a ‘crushing’ force from clamping around the CF tank.
2. Over tightening the tank to the gun and causing an issue from the torque.
3. Damaging the threading on the gauge to the point it turns into a projectile.

In order of the points above, I know these tanks are designed to be really strong but is there any good documentation on what type of external compressing force, or torque they can safely take? #2 Similar thing, we always just say, “hand tight”. What is hand tight, I like having numbers, how many ft/lbs of torque is considered hand tight? #3 again, what are the numbers? I asked AoA a year ago when I had the original leak from the plenum gauge and they said that information wasn’t available.

How do I know I’m not damaging anything or reducing the structural integrity of the device(s)?

Part of my concerns include a second aspect, I live in the worst place imaginable to be able to enjoy this hobby. An apartment in the city, a poof too loud (not a negligent discharge, just standard PCP hissing, wooshing, and popping) and LEOs would rightfully be knocking on my door to see what’s going on. Or my worst fear which is something gets damaged and a part decides to become a projectile and harms someone.

The thing that balances this out though, is I think if these issues were as easy to trip as I sometimes imagine, we’d be hearing about it CONSTANTLY. Yet the reality seems to be that they’re extraordinarily rare.

Idk, just wondering if this sorta stuff ever bothers anyone else. Sometimes I think it’s like handling electronics. I used to be very gentle until I worked as a repair tech for over a decade and I feel like I know the exact line where something breaks so now I can be a lot rougher with stuff and not be concerned.

Thanks for listening to me vent : )

Hoping everyone has a beautiful Christmas and Happy Holidays!

Made this today. Got to clean it up, seat the screws & paint, but basically, it is done. It feels more secure than I thought for a single-point connection.

Fx crown continuum with 25 cal 380 barrel and aluminum tank . i dont have the 700mm barrel.. I'm asking $1000 .. PayPal friends and family..

Hello everyone,

For all you folks that own one of @davelarson Spinner - Bell targets you will be able to appreciate these photos.

I actually set up this morning to shoot some 25-yard paper targets later on during the day. Anyway when I took the paper target out to the 25-yard frame I saw Dave’s setup out on my 30-yard target frame and I thought is it possible for me to “Ring” the bell on any of the various size holes . For those of you not familiar, his target has three different size holes ( .24", .38", .55" ) in the front base with a Bell mounted behind the steel plate. If a pellet goes through a hole it will hit and ring the bell.

I have shot the heck out of his target on 10-meters and indoors at 15-feet and repainted it many times. It is a good challenge to “Ring” his bell with a rifle or pistol at these distances .

But at 30-Yards this was a really fun challenge .

Range: Outdoor 30-Yards
Rifle: Brocock Sniper XR .22 caliber
Scope: Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 10-40x56
Pellets: JSB Jumbo Heavy 18.13gr
FPS: 834
FPE: 28
Wind: 0 mph

ThomasT

Pellets on sale, get yours today!

I know there are sizeable variations to tuning this stout little platform. Mine is currently pushing an 18g pellet at 850 FPS for 29 FPE. Nice, and it suits my needs well at that setting. Just for giggles, How high or low have any of you adjusted yours where it still performed consistently. I'm merely curious as maybe a few others are.

These are (2) tins of JSB Hades .22 , 15.59 grains and (500) pellets per tin .

The photo shows (5) but sold (3) of them , sorry !

Price = $36

Shipping $9

Payment = PayPal

in the last few days i read a post that included a statement about molying a barrel , BUT i cannot find any information on this technique . I have no idea if it is good or bad or nothing but a waist of time and money ?

yep, gumbo last week was perfect, so its time fora fricassee.........talon-p & hades at there finest !!

Built this a couple years ago out of scraps, it's about to rot out so want to build another. Mine has worked well - sent quite a few squirrels to the ground below with a hole in their head. Actually gonna build 2 - one for the upper yard and one for the backyard. Interested in stealing some good ideas.

Hi guys, in relation to my New Neighbor post. I am curious who makes the Quietest rifle out of the box?
Without me having to add an LDC. I am not sure if those are legal here. I am trying to get that answered now.
But just in case I find out they are not. I would like to know which guns are quiet.
It would be terrible to have to buy a new gun. Not! But if that's what I have to do to keep the neighbors happy I will do it!
Looking at AGT guns they seem to have an enormous barrel shroud. I would assume those are pretty quiet. But some of you say the Vulcan 3 has a loud ping.
Hard to tell in a video what it would sound like in real life. My first gen Marauder has a ping but it is not enough to bother me or the neighbors, I think.
What else out there is nice and factory Quiet?
Thanks!

Ran some pellets across chrono. AA 7.33 about 620 FPS. AA 7.87 around 600. AA 8.4 around 570. Good accuracy with all, all a little north of 6 FPE. Wanted to test some wadcutters. Grabbed some 8.2 Meisters. 450 FPS. 460 FPS. Thought the spring had broken. Nope. Put AA domes back in and it does its thing. Anyone else ever seen this? Or have another wadcutter that works well in the 300S?

I just got my first big bore pcp and am looking to start making my own .457 slugs. I am having a hard time finding molds for this. I have found .45 .452 .454 .456 and .459. Will any or all of these work for a AEA hp max? Seeing how there is a lag time of up to 3 weeks for ammo. It will be easier to try and make them myself then to wait. I am also looking to make slugs in the 100 gr range as I start to shoot at lower power. I want to see what kind of fps and fpe I get at 150bar and below.

Hi everyone, I’m a regular on Snipershide, looking forward to this forum for some air conversation.

My buddy and I have been patiently waiting for air systems to come up with a solid heavy-hitting solution for coyote hunting. Our area has big coy-dogs, they are tough 45lb animals. We are not head shooters, we target vitals and we want enough power to go completely through the animal with a decent exit wound for either good tracking or DOA results. …. well that day has come, with the western rattler .357. Its been in the marketplace for a year or so now and it has some history so we’ve decided to jump in and give it a go. We have a pair coming in from AOA, (our preferred dealer mostly because of our history together w FX rifles of the past).

Here’s the question ;

How many guys out here have this rifle and what percentage of shooters are dealing with air loss while rifle sits. How bad is your air loss?

I’ve seen a few negative posts, and I see about 5 guys with complaints ( from 2022), but thats not to bad considering the number of rifles that I sense are being sold nationwide.

I’d love a vote of confidence from users who have owned this rifle and have history with it, it might make hunting commitments easier to make, book and travel for. We aren’t backyard shooters, we drive and go all-in on hunts and I have no true life existence w this rifle (yet).

I’m avoiding doing my first thing Sunday morning bookkeeping by answering the below question a friend asked me:

“I was looking at reviews on air gun websites this morning. What scope manufacturer is the most desired for field target competition? Interested in their design and set up”

Begin reading this thread with an old movie lead in called the Twilight Zone:

“Please don’t touch your dial, you are now entering the twilight zone”

I’m sharing the below information as a condensation of my 2 year quest to find the perfect FT scope; so consider this info “percolated lessons” in how “not to” spend your hard earned monies :} i am by no means an authority on the subject... just trial and error lessons.

in HFT we are limited to 16X and can only use the parallax knob – we cannot change magnification or click for holdover / distance valuations. 16 x also needs to be marked on the magnification ring or you have to turn it down to the next lower power – yeah no fudging.

In FT Open class or WFTF (sitting on a bumm bag) they are allowed to click to change their distance holdover points to zero so choosing the right scope is slightly different.

After experiencing a lot of frustrations, spending way too much money, and talking to just about all the high-end scope makers this is what I learned:

1. There is not A SCOPE in the traditional sense that was made specifically for Field Target / Hunter Field Target at least as the scopes are currently being used. This specifically applies to using the Parallax adjustment feature / knob to range a target to determine its distance. Odd yes? Some where in the history of Field Target someone fat guy sitting on a bucket or laying on his belly in England or wherever, figured out they “could kinda sorta determine distance” using parallax error correction. Well golly gosh darn what the hell was I spending all my money for? This matters because, although 99% of the scopes are not the best choice for FT / HFT they still can work.
2. Parameters for finding a suitable scope, include

1) the ABILITY TO CLEARLY and crisply FOCUS AT 10 YARDS and out to 65 yards. 9 yards to 70 yards is a bonus if a course is set up wrong.

2) REPEATABILITY, MEANING IF YOU SET A RANGING WHEEL USING KNOWN DISTANCE MARKERS IT WILL ACCURATLEY RETURN TO THE SAME POINT ON THE WHEEL EACH TIME YOU RANGE IT (provided you range it / used the wheel near to far or far to near, the same way each time.

1. You must set up a parallax wheel (yourself for your eyes) as each of us have different focal lengths – and if you wear glasses its best to set up a wheel without them and after you range a target, look through your readers to read the information on the wheel = distance and to read your dope chart. If you wear progressive glasses you have to look through them into the scope the same way all the time or errors will occur. But by Avoiding the wearing of glasses during setup and competition it’s easier to achieve the correct repeatable eye box every time we plant our eye behind the scope.
   
2. Another challenge is choosing an MOA scope or MIL Dot / MRAD scope? Guess what - It doesn’t really matter as long as it’s what YOU PREFER.
3. Follow this info with yet another option FFP first focal plane or Second focal plane? Easy (to me) because a FFP scope will maintain the reticle size and holdover points regardless of magnification level from near to far; although you have some hardcore hunter people that insist they need a SFP…, TIS THE SEASON SO - bah humbug.
4. If shooting a break barrel / springer class, you better by a scope rated for an air rifle because RECOIL is going two ways = death to the reticle. (Hawkes and Athlon scopes are the best in this regards).
5. If you’re still with me and the coffee isn’t too weak or the tea too strong, we are going to move to the actual starting line of picking a scope.
   I never said money or your budget matters in this game... i leave that up to you.
   
6. In HFT we really need a reticle with illumination due to dark woodland lanes and darkly painted targets and that reticle needs to have each holdover point or lines within the scope properly and logically numbered so you do not get lost between reading your dope and applying the information to your holdover point while aiming.
   This is where shooting WFTF is nice or Open Class FT is nice because they get to click / change their elevation, so their point of aim is ALWAYS zero center point; thus they can utilize a scope with NO NUMBERING on the reticle.
   But for us HFT peeps if your scope just has lines or dots within the reticle you WILL make holdover mistakes PERIOD. Old farts have told me this umpteen times and they were right!
   If you get to click for elevation adjustments then by all mean = $BUY$ all means spend the money for the Sightrons 10-50x60 FT scope or the Kahles 10-50x60 FT or a Falcon XTI50 a similar FT dedicated glass…. But in HFT these types of scopes (in my mind) are a waste of money because you can’t utilize them as intended, as in clicking, (awesome scopes – I have several) but a waste of my money because I get lost within the reticles land of dots and dashes and tick marks and thus miss shots.
   
7. So I still haven’t answered the question i was asked yet. Well that’s because choosing a scope for FT / HFT means choosing a reticle that works for you. This is where I can save you a LOT of TIME and MONEY because I have acquired almost all of the scopes that people say are “perfect for HFT”. hmmm? Maybe Time for a road trip…. Come to my lair of numerous scope glass and we can get you sitting behind all of the best glass out there for WFTF and HFT and within a short time you will understand what is best for YOU.
8. Two years after this scope quest began an old guy that bought my Daystate Redwolf electronic gun shared some info with me. This information concerned Sightron’s S-Tac 4-20x50 MILH-4 Reticle, damn another rabbit hole to fall in. https://sightron.com/products/s-tac-ffp-4-20x50-zero-stop - the simple layout of this FFP, Illuminated scopes well numbered reticle works really well in FT and the 16 power magnification point IS marked on the scope! This scope price ranges from $780. To as low as $589 depending on where and when you acquire it. Optics Planet or Midway on Amazon. The same scope also has an MOA option the MOA3 reticle is just as nice BUT if you compare the reticle markings you will quickly see why the MilH-4 would be preferred model # 26016 - S-TAC4-20X50FFPZSIRMH who knows, you may prefer the MOA3 version of this scope, I had TWO of them, but sold both.
9. If you were to acquire any of the above Sightron scopes, the next challenge is getting a proper parallax wheel made for it because these S-Tac scopes have some gnarly knobs – just recently, Eric of Scope Werks created a magnetic wheel specifically for the S-Tac scope. https://www.scope-werks.com/viewitem.php?productid=474&groupid=48 don’t buy yet because the shape of the wheel is VERY important to getting the greatest space between focal points as then properly marked and displayed on your new wheel – the best wheel for the job is Eric’s eccentric 6” magnetic wheel. So all in you can get a scope for max $790 and a wheel max $160 – so $960 all in where as my fancy Kahles is 3K alone, and my fancy Sightron is 1.5 K and my my nice Athlons are $780 ish. I also like Joe Garlands magnetic scope wheels, BUT JD will tell you up front that he hates the S-TAC line of scopes because the knobs are a fitment nightmare - i dont blame him....

LASTLY - I recently attended an EFT event in Leesburg FL… rules are somewhat different for EFT extreme field target – In EFT you can shoot your .30 as you are allowed to shoot up to 100 ft lbs of energy? at the muzzle. You are also allowed up to use magnification up to 30x and you are allowed to click/change your scopes elevation knob; so you really don’t need a fancy parallax wheel because they give you the distances out to 100 yards… targets are set at 20-100 yards… tougher than it seems. 3” KZ at 100 yards is…… cussing land; especially if you don’t know how to judge the wind. All this EFT stuff is great fun but the number of, and locations of, EFT matches and clubs having targets that can withstand 100 ft lbs of energy are few and far between. Currently in my area there is only FT / HFT with some pistol class HFT and Benchrest thrown in for good measures. My point of sharing the EFT info is simple... in EFT your glass selection / requirements can be very different... don't have to be but....

If you are still with me at this point then you should know that AGN has a few great people who can teach you how to BRACKET using the reticles internal markings MOA or MRAD – to verify your distance, handy if your scopes ranging info doesn’t agree with your shot placement – aka you aren’t ranging correctly. Recently someone started a thread on this specific subject.

Feel free to jump in and add or correct me where necessary... i certainly need all the coaching i can get just like all the othe newbies to the wonderful world of field target bliss. If you aren't learning well... your not doing it right.

“We will now return you to your regular programming”.

I figured it wouldn't hurt. For the random things to discuss not necessarily airgun related.

I've been having to add oil to the wife's car, quite frequently lately. It's an 08 Camry with a 4 cylinder. Took the daughter driving (she's 17) and stopped to get a can of tobacco and could smell burning oil so I popped the hood. Oil all over the exhaust manifold heatshield so off we went to the auto parts store.

Valve cover gasket set was $30. Went home and installed it in 20 minutes or so. The old gasket had a split at the front where it was leaking. I have a rough idea how much I saved myself. I was a master tech for 20 years and have the bad back to prove it.

I just want to know how accurate the claimed power numbers are, but I can’t think of a good way to easily check.

Selling out my excess ammo in lots . Lot #1
.30 cal JSB Exact 50.15 gr
2- full tins
1-w/100 pcs
1- .30 FX 44.8 gr Atomic 100pcs
$50 plus shipping
SOLD Lot #2 SOLD

Lot#3
.22 slug lot
PM for list most full only a few out of a couple tins
$100 plus shipping

I've read several AGN posts about what a SCUBA or (mores in most of our cases) SCBA tank will and won't do when it fails. Similarly discussed is valve failure. Today I decided to look and see what I could find as far as video content on the topics. I didn't conduct an extensive search, but I found a few videos of interest.

This is a controlled experiment where what appears to be a SCUBA tank explodes in an explosion-proof compartment (due to what I assume to be filling the tank well beyond the maximum rated fill pressure). It appears if exploded when approaching 320 bar. I believe that SCUBA tanks are rated to safely hold 3000 psi or approximately 207 bar. Most SCBA tanks that concern airgunners are rated to be safely filled to maximum pressure of 4500 psi or approximately 310 bar.


In the following video, the valves on several HPA SCBA tanks were intentionally knocked off in a guillotine-styled device in an open and somewhat controlled setting. They behaved somewhat like cheap fireworks you may have played with as a child.


"MAE Test and Burst of a SCBA Cylinder - Self Contained Breathing Apparatus" This video appears to be a scholarly and scientific approach to explaining SCBA tank failure and is conducted and filmed in a controlled environment. According to the content creator(s), MAE stands for "Modal Acoustic Emission." I don't know what this is, but it gives me something to look into later. The content creator claims that this method is used by the United States Navy in expanding the life of SCBA tanks (refer to the video description within the link).


I will add videos to this post as I find them.

New in the box Air Arms S500 .177. Scope has never been mounted.

These are out of stock at the importer and Air Arms doesn’t expect more to ship for two more months in February ’24.

But this one could arrive in time for Santa to put under the Christmas tree for that special someone.

I had one just previous to this one so what I will tell you about it is, first hand experience of owning one.

This is one of the latest models if you look closely at the pressure gauge, supplied chrony printout and owners manual.

The stock is a deep rich color without a blemish of any kind on it or the deep bluing of the action.

Although an S510 is a 10 shot magazine fed breech, this S500 is ideal for any Field Target class as it has a generous breech port for easy loading of the pellets. There is no need to purchase additional expensive ($60) magazines and your top shooters will tell you to choose a single shot over a multi-shot. This particular rifle is quite capable of 20 fpe max AAFTA ruling and because of the factory installed regulator and higher pressure fill rating (250bar) you can still get an easy 60 shots @ 900 fps from a single fill. The fully adjustable power port also allows you to tune the gun for the pellets of your choice and can be turned down to a basement target shooting speed of less than 275 fps.













View attachment 416524










$900 firm.
I prefer payment is made within 24 hours of acceptance. After that, it will be offered to the next person in order.

Sorry, not interested in trades.

Price INCLUDES CONUS ground shipping insured and double boxed.

If you would like additional information, pictures or have questions, please feel free to reach out to me.

Expedited shipping will be extra and pricing available on request. PP is preferred and I’ll absorb the fees.

I have been looking at this subject for a while and cannot find anything or anyone that can give a solid answer. I've looked through the results posts and it appears that Palmyra indoor FT has a few people that shoot M3's, but that seems to be it. I'm kinda stumped. I have an M3 in .30 and I can stack holes all day long at 30yds with an UTG scope of all things. A lot of winning guns at EBR are M3's. They are proven to be very accurate. You would figure that it would make sense that more people would be using M3's in HFT for the accuracy they have.

I don't want to open a can of worms with people who are for, or against, M3's in general, but I would like to hear real world experiences. Are they just not as accurate in .177? Or accurate at 20 fpe? Are they too heavy? Etc.? I know Daystate seems to dominate in HFT, but is it just a matter of the sheep following the shepherd? The reason I bought the impact in the first place was because it won, or at least had major places in RMAC and EBR. It must be a great rifle right? Or is it just over represented? I fell for the hype but I'm very happy with the purchase and would do it again.

So here is the crux. I want to get into HFT but I don't want to buy a whole new rig. I just bought a 700mm .177 barrel, and a new Athlon Helos, and a boat load of pellets. I'm starting to feel nervous that I may have made a mistake. I guess my question is for people who have used, or directly know someone who has used a M3 and can give an unbiased reason for or against.

Please remember that this not the place to to praise nor bash the M3 in general. It is strictly about the pros and cons of the M3's use in HFT.

Let the comments begin!

Hi AGNers,

I was reading in the Shooting Tips forum on this site and saw this:

1- Proper Grip: The first step to the trigger finger being able to properly pull the trigger is to ensure that the grip on the rifle or pistol is correct. For rifles this means that the trigger hand is firmly gripped around the stock applying slight rearward pressure into the shoulder and the support hand is gripping the fore end of the rifle supporting the rifle.


I’ve been thinking on this topic quite a bit lately. I don’t agree with “trigger hand firmly gripped - slight rearward pressure into shoulder ” . I believe this shooting form tip is “left over” from powder burner days. These PCP rifles of today are recoilless. As such, I believe best accuracy is achieved by applying as minimal force as possible when shooting from a rest - especially fully supported benchrest. I’d recommend not even touching rifle butt to shoulder and just thumb and index finger on stock creating just enough pressure to hold crosshairs steady and release shot.

I do agree with the breathing tip outlined in the Shooting Tips forum.

For target shooters here on AGN:

Do you use a light hold with PCPs?
Do you use any shoulder pressure when you shoot from a bench?

-Ed

For my next mule deer hunting I changed the scope of my 30-06…..

It took me two 15 minutes sessions shooting on total less than 20 shots to get the rifle zeroed at 220 yards and at the end of the second session I was able to hit a clay at 420 yards.

On the other hand I have many weeks deciding which .30 Cal should I bring with me…. With which scope I get better results at 50 yards (zero) and up to 200 yards (not thinking I will shot at that distance, but among 100 and 150 maybe). Which give more shots per fill, which one has a better safety….. which one is more reliable, which one is easier to handle, with which one recording would be easier, which one has the best possible power, which one would make me to waste less air ……..

I am confident that I should hit the deer with the 30-06 if it gives me chance.

I am conscious that in order to be able to shoot something bigger than a rabbit with the air rifle I will need to be lucky…..

On November 22 I ordered and paid for two HW45's from Wes who then ordered them from AOA as we had not seen any come into Canada in the last two years. Looking at the USPS tracking it was picked up on November 28th. On December 11th I see the last entry stating that it is in Bell Gardens CA awaiting a returns agent. On Friday December 15th Wes got notified that USPS refuses to transport it any further and are returning the package to AOA. Does this happen often? I was hoping this one came through as they would then hand over to Canada Post to complete the shipment .......without gouging me for "customs fees" .....a few weeks after delivery...as I've experienced a few times before with the couriers, Fedex and UPS.