Been out of shooting for a few years, and now getting back into it, and not sure why I never thought to ask this......

I own a roofing company here in Texas. Alot of homes that we re-roof have lead pipe boots / lead pipe jacks (whatever you want to call them) that we replace. Sometimes they're painted to match the roof, but sometimes not.

Anyone know if these would be a viable source of lead if I were to ever considering swaging my own slugs?

I have a FX .22 800mm 1:18 twist barrel kit that I no longer need due to recently selling my M3. I have a aftermarket Huma high flow transfer port, and a Orion .22 mag to go with as well as the factory transfer port. Has a couple little marks on it bit i never really used it. Selling for $325 PayPal FF or you pay the fee. Buyer pays shipping. Text or call me. Doug (540)239-5197

As a husband and father I almost always have a phone on me so that I can be reached if needed. Having the phone means that I have a camera with me too. I like to take pictures and share what I’m doing with certain people. Over the years as I have shot my airguns for enjoyment I have also taken pictures along the way. Some of them are more “artful” than just a picture of the gun so I thought that I would start a thread to share some of those pictures and see what others you may have come up with.

please share your “airgun art”!

$499

Supposed to track downrange like the Labradar and the FX True Ballistics Chrono, with down range up to 100 yards. Based on what I read, the Labradar is out to 100 yards and the FX True Ballistics Chrono 300 yards...but that 300 yards is extrapolated from about 30-40 yards actual measured data.

Tomorrow my new gun arrives. Dealer mounted the scope and sighted it in at 22 yards. Where do you begin with a new gun? I was thinking of cleaning the barrel before the first shot. Then, getting used to the gun at 22 yards. Ultimately, I’ll need to resight to 40 yards. Any suggestions on how to proceed?

How many models of PCP rifles does a company need,I know, make it they will buy it.I get it ,FX must be good and have plenty of followers for their flavor of the month routine. I do not get this ,why not make a cheaper model with the combined parts of the dozens of models they already have? Come on ,Halloween is getting closer ,it could be called the FXinstein,

Really nice sidewinder compact. Works great holds air fine.. just seeing what else is out there..

Wts trijicon Acog with bac retical 1100 obo. Sells for 1450 new. Cash app or zelle

Reducing price .I have a Talon SS that came as a .25 and I bought a new .22 12 inch LW barrel from Air Force for and converted it. It was supposed to be my boat gun but doesn’t fit the dry storage compartment. I haven’t shot it much but what I have it seems the poi shifts after 20-30 shots? Anyway I have too many one hole guns to mess with it and don’t need it. It also has the super sear trigger which is very light and a moderator adapter from Donnyfl. I have box papers and all tools original sear, and pieces and parts. So it does come with both barrels .22 and .25. I believe 450 is a deal on it.
400 plus shipping unless we work anything else out. The scope we can discuss it is not included at this time.
If you have questions or need more pics text me at (865) 805-8249 Chuck

I just got these back from refinishing. I had them stripped, powder coated in the metallic grey, and clear coated for protection. I then had the FX Maverick logo laser etched back onto both sides of the FX chassis. This kit includes (in all matching finishes):

1. OEM FX Maverick chassis
2. OEM FX Maverick top rail
3. Kraford & Lypt Maverick GigaRail

$350 obo for everything (sold as a set only)

NOTE: I have other maverick parts if interested.

I know there is some skepticism out there about domed pellets at slower speeds for small game, especially for squirrel. Some swear by the Hades pellets and won’t use anything else. Nothing wrong with that. They are great pellets. This is an example of a 15.89 jsb dome pellet out of my P-Rod (602fps avg, 12.79fpe). Shot was 30 yds with a Bushnell Trophy red dot sight, heart/lung shot. I have an AGT small moderator with a custom threaded Donny adapter threaded M14x1.25 by my gunsmith. The impact smack was louder than the shot report and he was planted right there. I found the pellet lodged in the backbone. He was slightly quartering to me. Goes to show that a domed pellet is very capable with the right shot placement, even at slower speeds.

Hello everyone,

98ci/1.6L DOT Carbon Fiber Tank filled to 4,500psi

How many times will this tank refill a 100cc , 3,000psi airgun cylinder.

Thanks for the help,
ThomasT

Strange thing happened yesterday went to shoot the notos and noticed when trying to cock 1/2 way through the cycle it started feeling gritty
Found some pellet debris
But still little gritty
Cleaned up did some polishing
what I notice is from the tension from the hammer spring when cooking causes that bolt to slightly cock and drag on the top and bottom
No galling anywhere strange it was fine couple days later and this
Anyone else run into this issue ?

hello everyone
so i bought the FX IMPACT M4 while still having the M3 .

i am shooting the JSB EXACT 33.95 grains and HN 36 grains slug
so i setup my new M4 with the same M3 settings
what i noticed is M4 cant reach same FPS as M3 with same settings

although reg on both 136 psi
hammer macro is maxed out to 5
valve is in the 4th line

shooting HN 36 grains
fx impact m3 with hammer wheel on 14 gives me 980

while in the M4 same settings gives me 900

so there is almost 80 fps difference between

anyone noticed power deferential between both?

Just about every Airgun brand has disassembly and reassembly videos now, besides these brands I mentioned in the title. Sending airguns to overpriced turners, or retailers for repair is becoming a thing of the past! It doesn’t take much effort to make a lousy YouTube video, or come out with some meaningful schematics showing the nuances of taking these guns apart. FX led the charge in this now Daystate, Airmarks, AGT, Taipan, AirArms and a couple other brands have all followed suit. I won’t purchase a gun without this kind of product support. Get with the current times, or get left in the dust!

Hi
I want to Buy PCP
.22 or .25 let me see...
$300 shipping to Miami
Thanks You.

Hello, I am trying to figure out what is wrong with this Airacuda Max. While trying to fill the air just blows out where the magazine sits. I pulled it apart down the the spring and poppet valve without finding anything obvious.

Fx impact m3 700mm with .22 STX heavy liner or i can swap it out with .30 cal liner,

slug power kit, some other aftermarket parts/accessories, my own made tension barrel. Currently not installed.

only selling it because I need the money. Let me know if you have any questions. Asking $1600 shipped no offers

I have been wondering what the power output is like for the RTI Prophets in .30cal --
with compact barrels:

● .30cal Prophet 1 Compact: 400mm
● .30cal Prophet 2 Compact: 500mm

What power? At what regulator setting? What projectile?

How would adding one plenum -- or two plenums -- help or hinder power and loudness?



Have you used a new P2/P3 .30cal barrel (one with the double transfer ports) on a P1? How did that go?



Have your used an older P1 .30cal barrel (with the regular ports) on a P2? How did that go?


Thanks for any input!

Matthias

I’m very pleased to see that many people have had success with the Caiman regulator fix that I posted many moons ago.


My .177 has been very solid post-fix and it finds utility mostly as a travel gun due to the fact that its pretty robust and already a wee bit scratched up. The Leshiy Classic is my go to backyard .177 because it’s whisper quiet and the .177 Leshiy 2 goes in the backpack for hiking and XC skiing adventures.

A couple weeks ago, I decided that I’d like to make more use of the Caiman with a thermal optic, including loaning it out to a few friends and neighbors who have problems with unwanted furry nighttime guests. However, if it’s going to be really effective in that job, it could use more juice and less noise, which are typically confounding issues. However, much of the noise from the Caiman actually originates from the action of the exposed rear hammer within the wooden stock, which works much like a string instrument! I’ve even mulled over the idea of turning it into a tactical by designing and 3D printing a custom stock. That may still happen in the winter but for now, I’ve been focusing on hacks and tweaks to bring down the noise and increase the power.

I know from use over the past year that it shoots the 10g Zan slugs at 930fps very well, but would like to juice it up to shoot the 13 or even the 16 grain, the latter of which seemed like quite a tall order from the 400mm barrel. However, by putting the reg into bypass and looking at peak shot speeds at different pressures, I found that plateau speeds of 925-950 could be obtained at 150 and 160bar with the 16 grain slugs. There’s no shortage of hammer strike on this gun, but boy it gets loud. The porting is also .22 sized as is typical for the “afterthought” .177 model.

The first mod involved introducing a peek stub into the striking face of the hammer in an effort to dampen the very pronounced ting of the hammer. This has proven very successful, cutting around 80% of the very aggressive ting! Highly recommended for owners of this gun and perhaps other Airmaks guns with this unusual hammer:

To guys that know stuff...
AEA megoladon.58 cal issues.
1) the brass pin that is seated in the clear portion of the magazine keeps falling out .the place where I bought it said they've never seen this issue
2) in the back where the rear tank screws onto on the gun itself inside the rear block,if u will where the valve is loosens up to where I can freely turn it with my fingers .it needs a special tool to tighten properly.

So the first issue I can fix but of course I have to take it apart and press the brass pin back in the cover ..it works for a bit and happens again. But the place I bought it was trying to telle I'm using it wrong which I'm not and just because you've never heard of it doesn't mean it doesn't happen to other ppl since it can be fixed with simple tools so maybe noone bothers to complain if this is your attitude about it .
He wouldn't oblige me sending new mags but instead wants to send me the clear plastic part.

The second issue I was surprised at
I take off the tank after every use
Anyone have these issues

I tuned my 30 cal Impact to just under 80FPE using FX 45 grain diabolos.

Using 25 meter M16A1 Zeroing targets at 25, 50, 75, and 100 yards, I take 5 shots at each distance.

At 25, and 50 yards I can stack all 5 pellets inside the circle.

At 75 yards my average is 3 out of 5 over 25 targets.

At 100 yards I have never put 3 out of 5 inside the circle.

At 100 yards, the silhouette size should be equivalent to being at 686 meters.

I shoot from a table with the rifle's forearm supported by a bipod and the butt supported by my right shoulder and left hand.

I have a lot of respect for those shooting real ELR and shooting it well.

Experiments because I haven't done this before and I don't have a "milling machine", but I do have a very rigid drill press and a lathe. But I wouldn't recommend doing it this way because it was a PITA, but I managed to make it work.
I'm talking about buttoning the piston and compression tube on my 97K, which I've been contemplating doing for some time.
I started out by truing up the runout between the piston head and the piston body on the lathe which wasn't much .003" radial and .002" axial, probably doesn't matter, but I did it anyway. Then drilled the blind holes on the drill press 140rpm using a 3/16 carbide, 4-flute center cutting end mill
.This was set up as rigid as possible, being as close to the stubbed up end mill as I could, only having to feed the quill down less than a 1/2", and my drill press will go down to 140 rpm's, which I used. Only drilling about .025" deep, I have a indicator rigged up for a depth stop.

Two buttons on top and four on the bottom.

Next I made the buttons on the lathe for a snug fit and super glued them in place. Then dialed the piston in with the 4 jaw chuck and turned them for a slip fit in the compression tube.

Piston came out good with a nice sliding fit in the compression tube, now the piston will stay centered in the tube.

Now for the compression tube. I had heard that it was case hardened, but it wasn't as hard as I had thought it might be, and no match for the carbide end mill. I did go slow with it though. Before I started, I machined a delrin plug for a snug fit inside the compression tube, and this I think, helped with the rigidity when buttoning and when chucking in the lathe to turn the buttons.

I put four buttons on the top and four buttons on the bottom, machined them for a slip fit in the receiver. These next pictures are where I have already applied the Krytox lube GPL223 on the piston and compression tube, so you can see how little I use on them. This is the bottom....

And this is the top. I have blued the front portion that will "show" when it's in the receiver as well as the face of the compression tube.

I also machined a new oring piston cap with the trued up piston so it's all concentric less than .0005" and installed a new Viton oring.

I'm still using the old JM QX4600 spring with my guide kit that's spaced up to max, it has thousands of shots on it and still going. Assembled it all back together for testing.


Initial impressions, I like it. Cocking is smooth with no play, a lot more solid when closing. Just seems more solid all around. Of course it will break in over time. I assume the oring piston will also break in over time and speed up some. I only shot a 100 pellets today before it started raining again.
These are the first shots at 40 yards benched, all 10 shot groups, shot in order 1 thru 5.

After the 4th group it started to settle in and group. These were shot with QYS 8.48 pellets.
I chronied with the Garmin Xcero.

Next I tried the AA 8.4's top row, then two more groups with the QYS bottom row, it started raining so I stopped shooting. But the chrony numbers sped up a little by the last two groups, so oring is settling in.

I think after some more shooting it will be good. Very solid shot cycle, and pleased with the effort. I don't want to do it again no time soon..lol. I forgot to check the piston latch rod runout, but I've done this in the past several times. I also need to touch up some bluing and wanted to make screw cups. And ultimately get a walnut stock of some sort.

Looking to sell my Zulus. It's a great scope but I'm just not a technological guy. Turns out I prefer a regular scope. Also the rats and mice I thought I was going to shoot I haven't seen any at all in multiple times of trying so no need for a night scope anymore lol. Scope has a few marks on the side. Have everything that they come with. Asking $500 obo shipped. Conus only.