Wishing nothing but smooth sailing for you and the Blitz. WM

crowski said:

I don’t know about you guys , but I have my suspicions. Our weather is so different from when I was a kid. No where near the same. And not for the good. Crow

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Agree, I am pushing 80 and grew up in N Louisiana. I remember waiting for school bus and having to wear heavy coats. My birthday is Halloween and I remember going out trick or treating and there would be ice on water puddles, no longer that, it's more shorts and t shirt weather for that now.

Hey guys. This is the new .457 Seneca Light Hunter II Tactical version with 370 foot pounds of energy. Here is my "review" of this slug slinging beast. Thanks for watching! -Nate

Chukar60 said:

I was on AOA site a earlier this evening and wanted to look at the Atomic XR.
I saw the Pathfinder but no Atomic.
Too late to call and ask, but has the Atomic XR been discontinued?
I am wanting a gun in that size and power range and by all postings here the Atomic was the best available.
If you have any suggestions for a different gun I would appreciate it.
L.Leon, I a hoping to hear from you

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The Atomic is a great barn or general pesting gun. I used one for a while, exclusively for hunting pigeons inside barns at a large industrial dairy. They are built very well and are accurate.

I have since sold it and am now using an AGT Vixen 22 that Tony detuned for me to shoot at 562. It’s an absolute laser and I am getting 140 shots per fill out of the tiny bottle and it’s extremely quiet with stock moderator. Check out Airgun Retirees on YouTube to see it in action.

SilentSquirrel said:

You most likely spoke with Newman Buck
Check out his videos on YouTube
Search 910 Airguns

just my 2 shoots
Edward

PS
Cape Fear Airguns is the east coast FX warranty server

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Thanks I'll check his YouTube channel.

Welcome to the best forum, regardless of what format. Lots of mostly friendly folks here that will lend an ear and help when possible.
Remember to ask questions with as MUCH information possible....NOT: "What's the best...?" You'll fare much better that way.
Enjoy the ride!

mike

subscriber said:

The mag chamber diameter also matters. You don't want to struggle loading the mag, nor have projectiles drop out because the barrel like smaller projectiles.

You need to be sure that the barrel bore is properly aligned with all the chambers in the mag. Refining that alignment might help, in your case. From the video below, note the alignment screws and procedure, starting at 9:17 into the video:

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Thanks, I already know how to do this. I do it a bit differently though. I put a slug into the magazine and push it into the barrel until only a mm or so of the slug is still in the magazine and most of it is in the barrel. Then I tighten the screws locking the barrel in position, remove the mag and slug, replace the mag and rotate it checking alignment on all the slots. Works great and I've done it to all the hubens I have owned

I had that issue with my bc shroud and was able to shorten the length of the shroud by 3/4”

Vetmx said:

Congratulations. A .30 moves a lot of air and that caliber, at least for me requires me testing several to determine what’s staying on the gun. I will say that a Huma has never wrecked any of my guns in any calibers accuracy. My STO in .30 is the king of silence, but it only ever worked, best accuracy wise, on one gun. Enjoy that thumper.

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Thanks! Planning on trying out a few different pellets to get started and go from there. As for mods, Utah Airguns has recommended the Impulse Air 1350. The design is interesting and the idea of stacked baffle sections is intriguing compared to others on the market. The mod world is vast and paralysis of choice is real…

Mike_Lenardon said:

I was going to say pneumatic Cannon.

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Your right it uses an air handler, when triggered it unloads 50 airsoft plastic or aluminum. I charge it to 160 psi.

Tonight we're taking a look at the Shooters Global (SG) Pulse! This is a pretty advanced digital level with a pretty expansive app behind it powering a TON of features for precision shooters.


LINKS
SG Pulse Level: https://alnk.to/btoTtdD
SG Timer GO: https://alnk.to/4BHldoi
SG Timer 2: https://alnk.to/clYGniZ

hgatesm said:

That is awesome how you meticulously were able to work though that to find out exactly what it is that your gun liked! I unfortunately don't have access to any extra air whenever I am at the range.

What made you want to go through that process over some of the other methods that you see online via videos or what others have written about? Just genuinely curious!

Thanks!

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The physical dimensions and characteristics of both a pellet and liner combination determines the Internal Ballistics which in turn determine the angle (Lateral Throwoff) the pellet will have when it leaves the muzzle. The worse the Internal Ballistics, the worse the Lateral Throwoff the worse the group size.

Increasing velocity, increases spin rate which will increase the Lateral Throwoff.

As such I start pellet testing a liner at very low velocities, as low as 400 FPS, and let the liner physically show me the pellets with poor Internal Ballistics via group size.

A pellet with good Internal Ballistics will physically show me the velocity it is most accurate at via group size.

Testing indoors with no wind means Aerodynamic Jump and Wind Drift are NOT a factor in group size, making Internal Ballistic performance the dominate factor.

I too fell pray to the "pellet of the week & velocity" propaganda and kept testing this "pellet of the week" even though it clearly had the worst Internal Ballistics with my liner and increasing velocity only made it worse, even in the propaganda velocity range.

I never start testing a new pellet outdoors at the propaganda recomended settings for the Air Valve, Macro, Micro, and Velocity because this " pellet of the week" has never been shot from "MY M3" and when shot from "MY M3" it may have the Internal Ballistics of a brick.

Which I want to know before I start trying to accurately throw this brick farther than 20 yards outdoors in the wind and blaming the rifle for my ignorance.

My D34 has a split in the stock where the rear screw goes through. Its holding up great after some minor reinforcement but it wont last forever.

I've been looking at replacements...few and far between. I've never seen an aftermarket stock. Nor a synthetic stock that would fit.

Is there another Diana model with a stock that could be easily modified?

airgunmike56 said:

I bought a few tins of these at my local Walmart , Says made in the USA, Most of my super accurate guns , Vulcan, cricket, Prophet , I have only one pellet that I shoot and its not the Premier line, Now my PCP pistols in 22 shoot the Premier line and shoot pretty good at the price point , As a rule I like to clean my barrel before switching brands of pellets Its a pain and a hassle but it really lets you know how that pellet shoots in your gun,, But and its a big butt I slide a lot on that rule with my PCP pistols as I am jumping all over the place with them, and there pellets , Just fun shooting no hole on hole with the pistols .
So the rule is if you really want to see what a pellet will do in your gun, You gotta start with a clean barrel,,, my 2 cents
Mike

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Yeah I get it Mike and I do the same. I cleaned my pipe after every different lube combination so I could see which worked and which didn't. It wasn't until after I switched to the red lid (USA) tins that I saw a HUGE difference and improvement in the accuracy.

Dairyboy said:

Looks like Brazil

Others - Crosman premiers Brazil??

I see a discussion on these pellets and the guy said primer branded but made in Brazil. I replied I just thought the essential recreational pellets ( not branded as premier line) were the only ones not made in USA but Brazil imported for covid shortage times . Well dog gone .. Never...

community.hardairmagazine.com

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Thanks for posting that link @Dairyboy that was helpful. Now I know for sure. My buddy @reiffra945 says his P-rod will shoot both equally well. Too bad my Vixen won't because I have a crap load of the Brazil made ones. Oh well, I guess they will be good enough for the grandkids to shoot up some day.

That is a bummer. I'll do my best to get the time off needed for both in a year or two. Good luck with the shoot. John E.

Thanks everyone! I'll take that as a solid "no", haha.

Sawney Bean said:

Yep, the only major restriction we had was no full auto. Now, we’re arguably worse off than California and there’s a whole slew of new bills pending.

It’s not just the gun laws though. An income tax seems inevitable as does rent control and that’s just the tip of the iceberg. A 3 bedroom house outside of Seattle will cost you $500,000 and the property taxes will be around $5000 per year.

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Huh ? $5000 tax on a half million house. Try NY.
mines assessed at $349k taxes $9500. Very common
Girlfriends $210k house $4500

A HOA friendly version...

Hi I am looking for a parts diagram and also oring sizes for a Western Rattler , I just ordered one and I like to have orings in stock for all of my airguns , somehow I cant seem to find anything on this gun help please LOU

Necesito nuevamente de su ayuda, tengo una fx king .22 con un cañón de 600 mm, Este rifle es de potencia FAC, es decir, no está limitado. En España y en otros países europeos, este rifle y muchos otros tienen que estar limitados a la potencia legal permitida por cada país. En España están limitados a 20 ft lb (24 julios). Dicho esto, me gustaría limitar o reducir su potencia a esos 20 ft lb, me gustaría poder utilizar el rifle para participar en diferentes eventos deportivos de tiro, donde esa potencia es la máxima permitida. Después de devanarse los sesos, creo que la mejor opción sería cambiar el resorte del martillo.
Mi conjetura:
1º: Coge el resorte (muelle) de martillo del mismo tamaño pero más suave, este golpearía la válvula con menos fuerza y reduciría su potencia, claro luego jugaríamos con el regulador y el microajuste.
2º El distribuidor de FX me vende un resorte (muelle) para reducir la potencia a esos 20 ft lb, el resorte (muelle) es oficial de FX y está en su página con la referencia: V2 SH Referencia de resorte (muelle) : FX 11500 -SH. El resort(muelle) parece ser el mismo pero más corto.
3º: Encontré en Inglaterra, (leyendo en foros) un recurso que usan para limitar sus rifles hasta 12 ft lb, es un recurso más largo que el original, pero con roscas más finas y más suaves, en teoría con este recurso podría llegar a 20 pies lt


4º: Coge el resorte (muelle) original y córtalo hasta conseguir la potencia deseada.

Preguntas: ¿Puede un resorte (muelle) más corto tener un efecto negativo? ¿Cómo?
Me gustaría que el regulador pudiera operar en un rango de 75 a 100 bar, para obtener más disparos por llenado.
El resorte (muelle) original tiene una longitud de 56 x 10 x 1,5 mm (longitud, grosor, rosca)

Bueno espero sus recomendaciones o sugerencias.

Muchas gracias de antemano.

inverted said:

Exactly, on these things there is no maintenance schedule.
Keep it cool, change oil regularly, don't use auto stop, let the water pump continue pumping for a length of time after shutoff

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Ej zdravo Horvát
I can recommend you try a high performance oil for european twin turbos. (much higher boil point, less odour).
I am using this one in Canada

stovepipe said:

I don't have to own the 20-position wheel to tell you that it will have all the same downsides as the original fx powerwheel. Phil's micrometer is the only upgrade to the fx power wheel worth doing -- and it does it right. I was concerned about the micrometer's thimbal accidentally moving, but with normal handling it has never moved unintentionally. There is a fairly snug o-ring inside of the micrometer to keep it from free-spinning. If it's not enough resistance for you, then you can add a 2nd o-ring. I've had no need to change anything about Phil's micrometer mod.

stovepipe

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phils tuning accessory is the best option for tuning a maverick or wildcat fx airgun ...

I see. I may just have to improvise something similar to what you have.

The lite doesn’t have an externally adjustable regulator like the original krait. You can still adjust its just not as easy and convenient. I heard it takes about 20 mins to get to and adjust. Not sure on max power but guys comment they come a little hot for light pellets.
Awesome looking airgun with the wood.i almost bought one myself a couple times. I just picked up a katran compact. Maybe I’ll get a Krait next

I'm thinking that slugs are more sensitive to barrel imperfections and twist rates since they're solely dependent on spin for stabilization in flight. Pellets have some stabilization built in by virtue of their diabolo design, so may be more tolerant of barrel and twist variances. Just speculating out loud here.