After complete re-sealing and successful leak test. Just one small issue.
How do I bleed this part without ruining the seals again?
I can mount the trigger assembly but not the cocking assembly so I cant load the hammer to fire.
If I try to manually load the hammer spring or tap the hammer to open the valve.....If I try harder I'm afraid I will break something.
Its really shut hard.
The new seal kit has quad-rings for the manometer. So when I unscrew it the ring will just follow the manometer over the thread because of the back pressure and ruin the seal.
Or the quad-ring will follow all the way out until the manometer is fully unscrewed and the ring will be destroyed for sure when it popps.
If I just release the plenum or rear block it will be like popping a 130bar balloon and seals might be ruined. Also the orings will be clipped for sure when passing the transfer holes.
Is it me or is it a trap. Do I need to ruin at least one seal to depressurize ?
How do I bleed this part without ruining the seals again?
I can mount the trigger assembly but not the cocking assembly so I cant load the hammer to fire.
If I try to manually load the hammer spring or tap the hammer to open the valve.....If I try harder I'm afraid I will break something.
Its really shut hard.
The new seal kit has quad-rings for the manometer. So when I unscrew it the ring will just follow the manometer over the thread because of the back pressure and ruin the seal.
Or the quad-ring will follow all the way out until the manometer is fully unscrewed and the ring will be destroyed for sure when it popps.
If I just release the plenum or rear block it will be like popping a 130bar balloon and seals might be ruined. Also the orings will be clipped for sure when passing the transfer holes.
Is it me or is it a trap. Do I need to ruin at least one seal to depressurize ?